Two People, One City: Stone Forest
High mountains turn to valleys, valleys to hills; three hundred million years ago, a seabed stroll; sadly, ancient writings rarely note; the Stone Forest’s strange scenery gained fame late.
Although ancient writers left little about the Stone Forest, this rare karst landscape has existed for 270 million years.
When in Kunming, almost everyone visits the Stone Forest.
It’s best to set off early, around 8 a.m., as the Stone Forest is quite far from the city center, and many combine a morning there with an afternoon trip to Jiuxiang.
The Stone Forest is a 5A scenic area in China, and it’s huge. Since we came on a whim without much planning, I can’t recommend hiring a guide strongly enough — otherwise you’ll walk many unnecessary detours.
This is the most famous spot, and it’s often packed with photographers, mostly from tour groups. They tend to cluster at certain times; if you wait until that rush passes, the crowds thin out and you’ll get much better photos. You can also rent a local Yi ethnic Ashima costume for pictures — it’s not expensive.
Throughout the whole Stone Forest, there are performances of all kinds, mostly singing and dancing, and they run almost nonstop. So don’t worry about missing them; at a normal pace, you’ll naturally catch some.
Nature’s extraordinary craftsmanship. If karst landscapes were a series, the Stone Forest would be its most vivid chapter.
Conscience Stone — the local guide said this rock was formed by a past earthquake. Legend has it that if someone who has done something unconscionable walks beneath it, the rock will fall.
The pavilion in the distance offers a panorama of the entire Stone Forest, but since it was high and we were heading to Jiuxiang in the afternoon, we gave it a pass. If you have good stamina and plenty of time, do give it a try.
Allow about 3–4 hours; that’s ample. Many of the most notable stones have been given names, and again, I strongly suggest hiring a guide.
Like many 5A scenic areas, the Stone Forest is one of those places you only need to visit once.
Tip — temperatures vary greatly inside the Stone Forest. Some spots are shaded and can feel quite chilly, while paths with little tree cover get very hot. Bring a long-sleeved layer and extra water. If you’re a little older and want to take less-traveled routes, a walking stick will come in handy.
