Enjoying Family Happiness in Lijiang: Date and Stargaze in Shuhe Ancient Town
Shuhe lies right next door, more ancient, serene, and approachable. In the Naxi language, Shuhe is called 'Shaowu,' which means 'the village beneath the high peak.' It is a vital component of the World Heritage-listed ancient town.
Shuhe is also one of the earliest settlements of the Naxi ancestors on this flatland, and an important market town preserved intact along the ancient road. It stands as a living fossil of the Naxi people's transition from an agricultural civilization to a trading one, and is a model of market-town construction shaped by openness and caravan trade.
The tranquil ancient town and its starry sky
Walking through this small town, you'll see the ancient town in its truest form: earthen walls, stone-slab streets, large stone bridges—so very pristine. Yet this ancient town is bursting with life. Along the Little Paris bar street, you can savor fine wine and delicacies while watching travelers come and go.
But for me, the greatest allure of Shuhe is its starry sky. That night, under a dome of stars seemingly within reach, with the majestic Jade Dragon Snow Mountain towering nearby—that scene, that moment, a breathtaking beauty I will never forget for as long as I live.
From the hill behind the town, you can see the full panorama and the distant scenery.
[Preparations Before Your Trip]
1. About local transport: There are minibuses waiting and soliciting passengers on the streets, and some have fixed departure times (e.g., the Lugu Lake shuttle bus; it wouldn't be quite accurate to call them all illegal taxis). Basically, any vehicles touting for passengers on the streets are unlicensed. At best, they'll push you to buy things; at worst, they might even make you cancel your booked inn and stay at theirs instead.
2. About bank cards and cash: There are plenty of banks in Lijiang and Shuhe, and ATMs are very convenient, so you don't need to carry too much cash. Both Huaxia Bank and Nanyue Bank offer fee-free overseas ATM withdrawals worldwide. I recommend Nanyue Bank's Nanyue Card; it's mainly because there is no limit on the number of fee-free withdrawals, and I find it more convenient than Huaxia Bank. Nanyue Bank is a real boon for kids in… (the original text cuts off), and it has newly opened branches in Changsha too.
3. About group tours: For places like Lijiang and Shuhe, never be tempted by cheap deals. Those 10-yuan tours can be ignored outright. I suggest you first find out the admission fees and transport costs by yourself. If a tour package costs less than the sum of tickets and transport, just don't trust it. Don't kid yourself—there is no such thing as a free lunch. For places like these, just join a pure-play tour (shopping-free); around a hundred yuan or so will do.
4. About shopping: I suggest you spend the first couple of days just looking and asking around, doing your reconnaissance and gathering all the intel. Only on the day before you leave should you go on a shopping spree. Generally, things in Shuhe are cheaper than in Dayan (Lijiang Old Town). Many of the scarves and trinkets are made in Yiwu. A lot of the silverware in Lijiang and Shuhe is also adulterated, so don't buy anything too expensive. Just pick up some small items as souvenirs.
5. About accommodation: There are over a thousand inns in the ancient town, with prices ranging from a few dozen to several thousand yuan per night. I recommend booking in advance through any of the major group-buying websites. Of course, you can also look for a room upon arrival, but the ancient towns of Lijiang and Shuhe have stone-slab streets. Whether you're dragging a suitcase or carrying a large backpack, it can be quite exhausting.
6. Other tips: Be sure to use sun protection and moisturizer, and don't forget a lip balm—it's really dry. Bring plenty of clothes, because the weather in Lijiang changes a lot; when it rains, it feels like winter. Absolutely do not wear high heels here; the ancient town is all stone-paved roads, unless you fancy twisting your ankle. Suitcases with wheels? Forget it—how can you drag them on stone roads? Are you planning to carry it by hand or have two people lift it together?
From the bus terminal, we took a taxi directly to Shuhe, about a twenty-minute ride. All the way, we admired the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain growing ever closer; before we knew it, we had arrived. Shuhe is relatively small, with fewer commercial streets, and most importantly, far fewer people.
We stayed at a cozy inn in Shuhe. The courtyard wasn't large, but it was incredibly comfortable, with a warmth and homeliness that felt just like being at home. After putting away our luggage, we freely wandered through the stone-slab streets. Some people chose to explore on horseback, but the first thing to do here is to apply sunscreen! Because the plateau air is so clear, the UV rays are extremely strong—so don't just bask in the sun and end up sunburnt.
The ancient town of Shuhe under the protection of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain
After our stroll, we returned to the inn and chatted over tea with the host until past ten o'clock. Then we took our gear out to the ancient town. Many of the lights in town were already turned off, which was wonderful for stargazing. We set up our tripod on the large stone bridge and kept shooting non-stop.
Me on the large stone bridge—let's pick stars together
On the second day, the innkeeper kindly took us up the hill behind the town, where you can see a panoramic view of both Lijiang and Shuhe. He even pointed out a very large pear tree on the hill, but it was winter then, so bare branches, no pears in sight.
Prayer flags on the back hill
The innkeeper told us that whenever you're in a bad mood, just come up to the back hill, lift your head to gaze at Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, and in just a moment, all your worries will be forgotten. Perhaps that's exactly why he chose to stay in Shuhe.
In the evening, you must find a specialty restaurant. Enjoying delicious food while listening to music, feasting your eyes on the scenery, and sipping a little wine—it's truly one of life's pleasures. Shuhe's nightlife isn't as loud and boisterous as Dayan Ancient Town. It's more about a leisurely, petty-bourgeois lifestyle, with a very slow pace. This time, we went to Lijiang's most famous restaurant, one where celebrities dine most often. It's situated beside a small stream, with the entrance adorned with all sorts of flowers. The restaurant has two floors, and the second floor has a scenic balcony. If you're lucky enough to get a seat on the balcony, it's a real treat! The dishes are excellent, delicious, and reasonably priced. I highly recommend this specialty restaurant!
The soft glow of lights in Shuhe Ancient Town at night
Looking at the snow mountain, there really is an indescribable sense of peace and sacredness. For thousands of years, she has watched the land change—what kind of power is that?
The moon over Shuhe Ancient Town
The '...' in Shuhe is one of the 'attractions,' but actually, I think the real attraction of Shuhe is the tranquil feeling it gives you—it's an overall atmosphere. And we only passed by to pick up some vegetarian buns from a local lady's house and took a quick photo here. The water is very clear, and there are plenty of fish. But it's said the locals don't eat them.
Earthen walls and green leaves in the sunlight—quiet beauty, just like Shuhe itself.
At Little Paris, that is, Shuhe's bar street, there are many resident singers, often one live show after another.
[Some Great Stargazing Spots in Shuhe]
1. The large stone bridge inside the ancient town. The lights here dim after about 11 p.m., and most street lamps are turned off, making it beautiful for photographing the starry sky. The surrounding ancient town architecture, illuminated by starlight, will have nice contour lighting—well worth recommending. From here, you can also see the mountain peak.
2. Near ..., where the lights are very dim and the view is quite open, with a stretch of fields in front—a great spot.
3. The parking lot outside Banyan Tree Hotel, where there is less light and a wider view, and you can see the snow mountain.
4. The edge of the ancient town: just before reaching the main gate, there's a wide road turning right with stunning scenery, facing directly toward ..., a good place for telephoto shots of the snow mountain. You can see the entire mountain and the starry sky.
5. The inn's courtyard: for a time-lapse photography of the star trails spinning through the night, you can place your tripod inside the inn. (We did this in the small courtyard of our inn, aiming at the sky, and shot over several nights.)
The snow mountain peak under the starry sky, captured on the large stone bridge
[Preparations for Stargazing Photography]
Essential equipment: A tripod; a DSLR or mirrorless camera (if your point-and-shoot can control the shutter speed to about 30 seconds, that will also do). Lens: generally a wide-angle lens around 18mm.
Exposure settings: Shutter exposure time: around 30 seconds, ISO set to 1600, white balance recommended at 3500K or tungsten mode; a shutter release cable (recommended) for easy shutter control without camera shake (if a branded one is too pricey, you can choose a domestic brand like Yongnuo).
Recommended equipment: Shutter release cable: Yongnuo TC-80N3a. With a release cable, you can let the camera shutter work automatically—you can set exposure duration, interval, etc. This allows you to capture the material for time-lapse photography.
There are a great many inns in Shuhe; winter is the low season, so room rates won't be too expensive. You can take your time to find an inn after you arrive, or you can book online in advance. Many inns include airport pickup.
The cute cat at the inn
The soft, swaying water plants in Jiuding Dragon Pool
The sun umbrella in the courtyard of a Shuhe inn
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain under the starry sky
