2021 Earthly Qingqiu, Ten Thousand Mu of Lotus Ponds—Three Lives, Three Worlds, Puzhehei

D1-6.15: Arrived in Kunming, visited Guandu Ancient Town, admired the stunning sunset at Wangguan Wetland Park.

D2-6.16: Kunming-Puzhehei, visited the filming location of "Eternal Love" (Three Lives, Three Worlds, Ten Miles of Peach Blossoms), stayed at Huazhu Puzhehei Yunbang Hua Qing Su.

D3-6.17: Admired the lotus flowers at the vast lotus ponds, hiked Qinglong Mountain for a panoramic view of Puzhehei, watched willow-leaf boat water fights, tasted local cuisine.

D4-6.18: Took selfies and played around at the guesthouse, Puzhehei-Kunming, visited Kunming Nanqiang Night Market, savored authentic wild mushroom hotpot.

D5-6.19: Bought freshly baked Jiahua flower cakes, returned home.

The trip to Honghe Prefecture in Yunnan at the end of 2020 still seemed vividly recent, yet in just half a year, I already yearned for my beloved Yunnan again. Yunnan is an addiction I can never shake. Moreover, it was June, the season for tasting Yunnan's wild mushrooms had arrived. I wanted to find a place to vacation and relax, so I thought of Puzhehei, which is not too far from Kunming. In recent years, it has become well-known for being a filming location for TV dramas and popular variety shows. A friend had also strongly recommended it. Before the summer peak season arrived, we continued our "fly-as-you-please" trips and headed to the earthly paradise of ten-thousand-mu lotus ponds to enjoy a few days of celestial life!

We arrived in Kunming at noon. We deliberately chose an Atour Hotel near Kunming South Railway Station. The hotel offers free airport pickup service. Nearby, there is also a delicious dual-flavor Fuxian Lake stone pot fish. The clear broth preserves the original flavor of the fish, while the spicy broth is savory and aromatic. The dual-flavor option allows you to enjoy both rice and soup, killing two birds with one stone.

The hotel was just a stone's throw from Yihe Road Metro Station. When the afternoon sun was not too intense, we went out together to visit the nearby Guandu Ancient Town. Guandu Ancient Town is steeped in ancient charm and elegance. It is not large, covering less than 1.5 square kilometers. Since the Nanzhao and Dali Kingdom periods, it has been a renowned ancient ferry port in central Yunnan. During the Tang and Song dynasties, it was already a major town on the eastern shore of Dianchi Lake. In the Yuan dynasty, it was established as a county at the same time as Kunming. By the Ming and Qing dynasties, it had become a commercially developed township. In the past, Guandu was a gathering place for merchants, with towering pagodas reflecting its glory. It became a favored spot for high officials to build retreats and villas, and for celebrities and scholars to visit and linger. To this day, many cultural architectural relics remain, including the Five Mountains, Six Temples, Seven Pavilions, and Eight Temples from the Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties.

The Miaozhan Temple Vajra Pagoda is the oldest among the more than ten existing Vajra Pagodas in China. It is the only typical Lamaist pagoda constructed entirely of sandstone. Legend has it that there was once a sea monster causing havoc in Guandu, so the pagoda was built to suppress it. To the north, there is a two-story stage, complementing the two brick pagodas with dense eaves of Miaozhan Temple. This not only embodies the Buddhist spirit of "tolerance is greatness" and "both exoteric and esoteric teachings," but also forms a "pin" character layout. The architecture is varied in height, magnificent, and spectacular, forming the core of Guandu's ancient building complex. The base is hollowed out, with four gates in the east, west, south, and north for passage of pedestrians and vehicles. At each of the four corners stands a small square pagoda, guarding a tall conical pagoda in the center. The five pagodas represent the Five Dhyani Buddhas, with the central main pagoda representing Vairocana Buddha. The main pagoda is tall and elegant, and the five pagodas cluster together, complementing each other. The carving is exquisite. The entire stone pagoda is imbued with the aura of religious culture and exudes the charm of architectural art.

The twin pagodas of Miaozhan Temple, one east and one west, are about 15 meters apart. They are light yellow, thirteen-story solid brick pagodas with dense eaves, originally built in the Yuan dynasty and repaired many times. The west pagoda was destroyed in an earthquake in the 13th year of Daoguang (Qing dynasty). Only the east pagoda remains. The current west pagoda was rebuilt in 2001. The pagoda is 17.5 meters high, with a bronze Garuda bird on top to suppress floods. It is said that every 60 years, at dusk on the autumn equinox, when the sun sets and the moon rises, the two pagodas will illuminate each other, rivaling the Golden Horse and Jade Rooster Archways.

Today, Guandu Ancient Town is overly commercialized, but the local residents still enjoy themselves, using the ancient town as their recreational backyard. Around the Fading Temple, Tuzhu Temple, and Miaozhan Temple, groups of people gather with instruments, playing and singing lively tunes, each immersed in their music—Dian opera, flower lantern songs, folk songs, and ditties—one after another. Some bring out chess and cards, inviting friends to relax and take a break.

As the sun went down, we, unaccustomed to the hustle and bustle of the ancient town, hurriedly left and headed to Wangguan Wetland Park to seek the magnificent sunset. There are more than a dozen large and small wetland parks along Dianchi Lake. Among them, Wangguan Wetland has become famous for its stunning sunset photos on Xiaohongshu and is known as Kunming's "Little Jeju Island." The park is small and exquisite. You can walk along the shore of Dianchi Lake, or cross the lake via wetland paths. There are boardwalks, underwater reflections, and surrounding green trees. No matter which route you choose, watching the waves crash against the shore, the clouds roll and unfold, and experiencing this moment of comfort, you can feel a warm, moist breeze blowing on your face, carrying the scent of water, flowers, grass, and soil, bringing a hint of coolness to those walking under the scorching summer sun. Standing on the shore of Dianchi Lake, the water surface sparkles, vast and boundless. Waves beat against the rocks. Withered trees sway in the water, and an old tree stands alone in the water, adding a touch of desolation and melancholy.

Good things are worth waiting for, like the sunset at Wangguan Wetland Park. Some people set up their cameras early, just to wait for this moment. The afterglow of the setting sun sprinkles on the water, and the undulating waves are golden. The sky and earth seem dyed, enveloped in an orange halo. As the sun gradually hides in the embrace of the western mountains, the sky's colors become particularly charming. Warm and cool tones blend together, showcasing the charm of the sunset to the fullest. The sunset here seems to have a mesmerizing charm, with warm and soft light and shadows, creating a picturesque and artistic scene (partially borrowed from pictures).

In the early morning, after enjoying a delicious breakfast and steaming rice noodles, the hotel arranged a special car to take us to Kunming South Railway Station. There is a direct high-speed train from the south station to Puzhehei, taking about an hour, which is very convenient. Puzhehei High-Speed Railway Station is located in Qiubei County. We took a Didi to our guesthouse—Huazhu Puzhehei Yunbang Hua Qing Su.

The guesthouse courtyard was clean and elegant, with a vast sea of flowers, carefully arranged. It offered a 180° perfect view of the landscape and lake. The lotus lake and Qinglong Mountain showed off their postures. Distant mountains, small lotuses, blue sky, and white clouds were all in sight, as if they were our private exclusive scenery. The third-floor bedroom had oversized floor-to-ceiling windows. I lay lazily on a rocking chair on the balcony, brewed a pot of tea, opened a book, and savored tea with a peaceful mind. This idyllic life away from the hustle and bustle was exactly what we wanted. I felt a lifestyle completely different from the city, laughing at the flowers blooming and falling in the courtyard, quietly watching the clouds roll and unfold in the sky. Once seated, I didn't want to get up. Although the guesthouse was at the end of Puzhehei Village, a certain distance from the lively center, it was precisely because of this that we could enjoy peace and quiet. Although the road in front of the courtyard was dusty and full of potholes, the beauty outweighed the flaws. Moreover, the butler kindly let us use the shop's small electric scooter for free, making it convenient to go anywhere.

Under the scorching sun, we went to the nearby Xiayu Lakeside to try the specialty lotus seed soy milk chicken hotpot. The broth was made with fresh soy milk and lotus seeds, stewed with local free-range chicken. When it boiled, a layer of tender tofu pellicle formed on the surface. The soup was rich, and the meat was tender, though it didn't look very appealing. Paired with local vegetables, it was very fresh and sweet. The peach blossom wine and lotus flower wine were both particularly delicious. The five-color glutinous rice was firm, fragrant, and sticky, with a subtle bamboo tube aroma, symbolizing the unity of all ethnic groups like glutinous rice balls, and a life as splendid as a hundred flowers. The shop owner also kindly gave us some of their homemade lotus root starch and egg yolk pastry to taste; they were quite good, and we could buy some as souvenirs.

The afternoon sun was too dazzling, with extremely strong ultraviolet rays that felt scorching on the skin. I didn't have the courage to go out, so I stayed in the guesthouse, blowing in the breeze on the balcony, enjoying the magnificent view. When the sun had slightly waned, we rode the small electric scooter to the filming location of "Eternal Love" (Three Lives, Three Worlds, Ten Miles of Peach Blossoms).

Those who have watched the immortal-themed dramas "Eternal Love" and "The Pillow Book" must have been deeply impressed by the ten-mile peach blossom forest in the drama, right? They must still be captivated by the two queens of Qingqiu, Bai Qian and Feng Jiu. In fact, records of the nine-tailed fox of Qingqiu can be found as early as in the Classic of Mountains and Seas (Shan Hai Jing), first appearing in the pre-Qin period and being regarded as an auspicious beast by the Han dynasty. Three lives begin in fate, waiting for the blooming season. The brilliant peach blossoms, ten miles of splendor, peach trees covering the mountains, the distant clear waters and green mountains, the tranquil bridges and flowing water, lush grass, and thin mist—this is the secluded fairyland of the immortal Zhe Yan, the real Shangri-La, and this is Puzhehei's "real-life Qingqiu." Squeezing through the narrow cave entrance engraved with the word "Qingqiu," the view suddenly opened up, as if we had entered a paradise on earth. Surrounded by water on three sides, embraced by mountains, a few white gauze thatched pavilions, a few deadwood vine bridges, and a pink peach blossom forest endowed this tranquil lake with a different kind of enchantment. A fairy island sat in the middle of the blue lake water, incredibly beautiful in the reflection, so unreal. Birdsong echoed in the ears, and even the air smelled fresh. I thought there must be a few jars of aged fine wine "Peach Blossom Drunk" buried under the trees by the lake! The only regret of the ten-mile peach forest was that the peach blossoms were currently fake decorations, but that didn't detract from its beauty. The picturesque scene made one instantly feel immersed in the drama, as if they had truly become an immortal visiting the Queen of Qingqiu's home, asking Bai Qian for a pot of excellent Peach Blossom Drunk, drinking heartily under the peach tree, and lying drunk in the thatched pavilion. As the saying goes, "Sober, I only sit before the flowers; drunk, I come to sleep under them"!

Back at the guesthouse, sitting on the balcony, we could enjoy the sunset of Puzhehei. I set up a tripod for time-lapse photography, capturing the heavy colors in the sky, enjoying the golden feast of the gorgeous finale. Leaning on the railing and looking into the distance, the setting sun gradually converged its radiance, shaped like an egg yolk. The sunset clouds accompanied the setting sun in intoxication. The sky was colorful, sometimes light red, sometimes light blue with a touch of purple, sometimes light purple with a hint of gold, brilliant as clouds and magnificent. On the misty green mountains, the setting sun slowly descended. The sunset clouds dyed a curve of the lake water red, the water and sky becoming one color. Finally, the splendid glow sank into the water... At night, the butler warmly invited us to join a barbecue party. Although we were all strangers to each other, everyone enjoyed barbecuing, drinking, and chatting heartily, competing to see who could still maintain fair skin under such strong ultraviolet radiation!

Puzhehei, in the Yi language, means "a pond full of fish and shrimp." From late June to September is the golden season for tourism in Puzhehei. Every year, the lotus blooming period begins in mid-May, with a long blooming period lasting until the end of September. Here, more than 270 world-renowned varieties of lotus grow, covering a total area of over 20,000 mu (about 1,333 hectares), roughly equivalent to the area of three small Vatican City states. It is considered the world's largest lotus garden. I heard that rare twin lotuses have even bloomed here (borrowed picture).

Waking up early in the morning, the warm morning sun shone on the lake. The air was filled with the unique fragrance of lotus flowers. I strolled by the lake. Amidst the lush green, the lotus flowers swayed their postures, dancing gently, like graceful girls, delicate and charming. Pink, crimson, and white petals each had their charm. The warm yellow core was embedded in them, elegant and serene. From time to time, bees flew in to collect honey. Large tracts of lotus leaves stretched out wantonly.

Puzhehei had already entered early summer. The lotus flowers also changed from the "one touch of red amidst a sea of green" of May, blooming one after another, connecting one patch to another. "The green lotus leaves stretch to the horizon, and under the sun, the lotus flowers appear especially red" was the best interpretation of this scene. The endless lotus flowers spread across the lake waters of Puzhehei. When the breeze blew, they made a rustling sound, as if they were whispering something.

In the distance, solitary peaks stand in forests. The lake reflects the blue sky and white clouds. The scattered farmhouses present a peaceful and beautiful rural landscape. I breathed in the fresh air deeply, freely enjoying the comfort of traveling in a painting. From the Lovers' Bridge, I walked along the lakeside sightseeing path, admiring flowers and strolling, all the way to Puxin Bridge, which is the center of Puzhehei Village. The Lovers' Bridge, nestled among the lotus ponds, is also called the Four-Pavilion Bridge. Its architectural style is very special: four beautifully carved pavilions are symmetrically arranged on both sides of the bridge deck. Their clear reflections in the water are very bright in color. The water quality here is clear to the bottom all year round, with an average depth of 3 meters and a maximum depth of 30 meters. When ripples pass, the reflections on the mirror-like water surface are stirred, vaguely revealing the waterweeds, fish, and shrimp below.

There is a shortcut from the guesthouse to Qinglong Mountain: walking along rice field irrigation channels directly to the foot of Qinglong Mountain. The mountain path is winding and tortuous, with steep cliffs. Climbing to the top requires some physical effort. It takes about half an hour to reach the summit. Ascending high, one can see the panoramic view. There are multiple observation decks at different angles, offering a full view of Puzhehei. Qinglong Mountain is 1,555.8 meters above sea level and is the center of Puzhehei. You can overlook the entire typical Karst landform of Puzhehei from a 360° perspective. It has both the elegance of Guilin's landscape and the ancient charm of Jiangnan's water towns. The fragrance of ten thousand mu of lotus flowers wafts everywhere. The folk customs are pure and authentic. It integrates six major landscapes: "water countryside, lake peaks, Yi water town, karst wetland, lotus world, and bird paradise." It is praised as "a rare and unique karst landscape countryside in the world" and "a dream on the horizon, a fairy pool on earth." Fifty-four interconnected lakes, 20,000 mu of pure transparent water, layers of distant mountains, 312 solitary peaks scattered like stars, a 13-kilometer grand canyon magnificent and spectacular. The mountains resemble ten thousand horses galloping. Peaks like towers, steep as if cut, precipitous cliffs of a thousand yards, magnificent and extraordinary. Winding waterways meander among the verdant mountains. Scattered houses emit curling smoke. We enjoyed the cool mountain breeze and looked at this landscape of lakes and mountains, unwilling to leave for a long time, until a painted houseboat skimmed across the water, stirring ripples and breaking the tranquility.

We circled back to the main street for lunch at Hongni Xiaohuolu (Red Clay Small Stove). Here, lotus flowers can be used for everything. Various lotus-related dishes seemed novel. Sanqi (Panax notoginseng) is also one of the local specialties. The fried lotus petals were sweet, fragrant, soft, and crispy. The lotus petals were coated in flour and fried. The plating was very delicate, with fresh lotus flowers as decoration in the middle, adding a lot of beauty. The steamed pork ribs with lotus leaf and glutinous rice were soft, sticky, and delicious. The pickled vegetable and sliced lotus root were crispy and tender, perfect with rice. The sanqi stewed chicken soup was fresh in flavor and tender in meat, with a light medicinal taste, nourishing blood, beautifying, and anti-aging. Then we ordered a pot of exquisite Peach Blossom Drunk and drank to our hearts' content... The owner's Fengwei tea was also very good. It is made from dried leaves of the wild plant Dongzisu (Elsholtzia bodinieri). It is slightly bitter with a sweet aftertaste, clearing heat, detoxifying, and antioxidant. A cup after the meal also helps cut through grease.

In the afternoon, we continued to return to the guesthouse to rest, avoiding the sun exposure. We went out again in the evening to stroll around. Since we didn't like boat rides, we lingered by the bridge and the lake, watching the passionate summer water fights. Puzhehei has many lakes, like a string of pearls connected together, forming a 19.8-kilometer tourist waterway. In summer, the most attractive activity for both children and adults is to get close to the water. Paddling willow-leaf boats through the peaks and lakes, going deep into the lotus flowers, with a sea of lotus flowers stretching as far as the eye can see, the sound of oars and reflections, the laughter rising one after another, on a hot summer day, while admiring the landscape, you can join in a passionate summer water fight with your friends when the mood strikes. Whether you know each other or not, water is the best greeting. Basins, water guns, water ladles... anything that can hold water can be used as a "weapon." Getting drenched in a water fight, enjoying the cool fun of summer water play, is absolutely exhilarating. At this time, looking back at the vast sea of lotus flowers that bloomed in the morning, we found that they had already closed their petals with the sunset, returning to the shy state of budding, quietly waiting for another dawn, greeting the next stretch and bloom with full energy... (partially borrowed from pictures).

At night, Puzhehei belongs to barbecue. It was hard to even find a bowl of rice noodles. The locals said that rice noodles are only eaten for breakfast. So we went into Siji Barbecue (Four Seasons Barbecue) and casually ordered a few skewers of grilled beef and a plate of grilled rice noodle rolls. To our surprise, the grilled rice noodle rolls were delicious. The chives inside were savory and tasty, with a fantastic texture and unique flavor.

Before departing, when making our itinerary, we decided that this trip would focus on leisure. So we gave up many surrounding attractions, didn't rent a car, just rode the small electric scooter or walked around Puzhehei Village, climbed Qinglong Mountain, visited the Qingqiu peach forest, and spent most of the rest of the time at the guesthouse drinking tea and resting, enjoying the scenery of the courtyard... Accustomed to the hustle and bustle of the city, coming here was like a fish returning to water—leisurely and carefree. We could let go of everything, and all worries could be thrown to the winds.

Today we are about to return. In the morning, we slept in until we naturally woke up. We didn't want to go anywhere; we just wanted to stay quietly in the guesthouse. The large guesthouse was empty, with all the other guests out playing. Only the two of us sat by the lake, setting up the tripod to take selfies. With every casual shot, we were within the scenery, and every picture looked like a masterpiece. Everything around us became props: the rattan bed, the glass swing, the wine jug, the water gun... The two of us played forgetfully and joyfully. I think this is true relaxation!

Before leaving, we rode the small electric scooter, crossed Puxin Bridge, and went to Xiayu Luxuan, a highly rated restaurant in Puzhehei, to eat lotus flower fish. The lotus flower fish was tender and smooth, sweet and delicious, and beautifully presented. The chive and snail meat was rare with more meat and less vegetable. The snail meat was large and plump, without muddy smell, and the chives were very fresh. The store's loose-haired tea was very similar to yesterday's Fengwei tea, cooling and refreshing in summer. My husband couldn't resist buying some to bring back. Returning to the guesthouse to say goodbye to the butler, we found that we couldn't get a Didi. Fortunately, the butler helped us find a familiar private driver to take us to the station, so we didn't miss the high-speed train back to Kunming.

On the return trip, we chose to stay near Tangzixiang Metro Station in Kunming. We could take the subway directly to Kunming South Station and Changshui Airport. Nearby, there were Nanqiang Market and pedestrian streets for shopping and eating, as well as the Yiduo Jun wild mushroom hotpot that I had been craving. It is ranked first among Kunming's mushroom hotpot restaurants and a must-eat list restaurant. In Yunnan, known as the kingdom of plants, when summer rains fall, wild mushrooms always arrive on schedule. They absorb the essence of nature and quietly emerge in the wilderness with fresh and tempting postures. In this season, eating mushrooms and drinking mushroom soup is definitely one of life's great pleasures.

As expected, there was a queue. After getting a number, we first went to the adjacent Nanqiang Market. In the enticing night, the neon lights on the street twinkled like stars. The shops on both sides were full of artistic atmosphere. The ground was paved with retro stone paths, and there were food snacks everywhere, enough to eat from one end of the street to the other. Among the crowd in Nanqiang Market, young people came to experience trendy lifestyles, tourists came to explore the city's atmosphere, and old Kunming locals came to find their unforgettable flavors.

At Yiduo Jun wild mushroom hotpot, I didn't recognize many of the various mushrooms in the wild mushroom platter. The server introduced each one, then poured all the mushrooms into the steaming chicken broth pot, placed a small timer beside it, and instructed us not to touch any ingredients in the pot with our own utensils until the time was up. So we waited. The overflowing steam was incredibly aromatic, making my mouth water. Finally, the timer beeped. To ensure customer safety, each pot of soup must be sampled and kept for 48 hours. We could finally eat. After gently stirring, I first drank a full bowl of mushroom soup. The broth was rich and delicious, sweet and nourishing. The freshly cooked mushrooms melted in the mouth. In terms of texture, I liked the red lactarius mushroom the most—smooth, crisp, and refreshing. After eating the chicken and mushrooms, we cooked some wild vegetables, which were also very flavorful. The set meal for two came with a drink and a dessert. The content was too rich. Since we had waited in line for over 40 minutes, the restaurant also gave us two baskets of matsutake steamed dumplings. Eat them while hot; the dumpling skin was crystal clear and chewy, and the filling had a strong matsutake flavor.

Before going to the airport, I couldn't resist going to the Jiahua Bakery opposite the hotel to buy rose flower cakes. Be sure to buy the classic version that is freshly baked and sold on the same day, fresh out of the oven. The crust is soft and flaky, with a slight aroma of egg liquid. The filling is rich in floral fragrance, the rose fragrance refreshing, and not too sweet, making it irresistible even for someone like me who doesn't like sweets.

In just five short days, we took a brief break in Kunming, wandered in the paradise of Puzhehei, climbed high for a panorama, watched the winding mountains, strolled leisurely in the ancient countryside, saw small bridges and flowing water, and smoke from cooking fires, walked by the lake, watched the sparkling waves and blooming lotus flowers. Although Puzhehei has become famous to the world, it still remains low-key, remaining a secluded fairyland. Only by coming here can you feel its otherworldly beauty. Combined with Yunnan's summer wild mushroom feast, my attachment to Yunnan was temporarily satisfied. Next stop, I'm planning Xishuangbanna...