Dingzhen's Hometown Is Beautiful, but There Are Even More Beautiful Places
[Dates] 2021.9.29-10.10
D0 9.29 Shanghai to Kunming by flight, Stay: Kunming
D1 9.30 Kunming to Lugu Lake by flight, Lugu Lake - Muli County, Stay: Muli
D2 10.1 Dingdong Haizi, Kangwu Grand Monastery, Chang Haizi, Muli Grand Monastery, Mana Chajin, Stay: Mana Chajin
D3 10.2 Mana Chajin - Daocheng, Stay: Jinzhu Town
D4 10.3 Daocheng - Litang - Genie, Xiazetong Village, Genie's Eye, Genie Sacred Mountain, Stay: Genie Naiganduo Village
D5 10.4 New Lenggu Monastery, Old Lenggu Monastery, Genie - Batang, Stay: Batang
D6 10.5 Batang - Baba Gou, Baba Sea, Dongba Village, - Gaiyu - Baiyu, Stay: Baiyu
D7 10.6 Baiyu - Ganbai Road - G317, Tongcui Lake, Stay: Ganzi
D8 10.7 Cuoka Lake, Zhayi Monastery, Stay: Xinlong
D9 10.8 Larima Town, Stay: Daofu
D10 10.9 Qimei Township, Jiayila Lake, Hongmu Haizi - Dangling Village - Danba, Stay: Danba
D11 10.10 Danba - Xiaojin - Siguniang Mountain - Chengdu, Chengdu to Shanghai by flight
D1 9.30 Kunming to Lugu Lake by flight, Lugu Lake - Muli County, Stay: Muli
Ninglang Lugu Lake Airport
This airport is really tiny, with only one baggage carousel, but it's quite fast.
Lugu Lake is still as beautiful as ever. I came here five years ago, also on a sunny day. The water is an unbelievable blue, like a mirror. Actually, we just wanted to take a scenic route to Muli, but we still had to pay the 70 yuan entrance fee just for passing through. If you enter Lugu Lake from Muli, there's no fee.
Lunch: Chengdu Impression Restaurant
A restaurant by Lugu Lake. We picked two of the three signature dishes. The owner guaranteed that if we weren't satisfied with the signature dishes, we wouldnβt have to pay.
Absolutely delicious mashed potatoes β smooth texture and great flavor.
Diving fish β fresh and tender, tasty.
We also tried the local specialty, 'water-like willow' (water spinach).
Itβs said that by selling roasted potatoes, someone here bought an apartment β that shows how good the business is.
4 yuan each, very primitive roasting method. The potatoes are a bit crispy. I prefer them soft and floury. We dipped them in chili powder β it was really spicy.
D2 10.1 Dingdong Haizi, Kangwu Grand Monastery, Chang Haizi, Muli Grand Monastery, Mana Chajin, Stay: Mana Chajin
After over an hour of mountain driving, we saw a sea of clouds outside the valley, but upon reaching the lake, it was shrouded in thick fog.
Maybe itβs called Dingdong Haizi because you can hear the jingling of cowbells from across the river.
The moment when the morning fog cleared was so surreal. From seeing nothing on the other side to gradually becoming clear β it was all about waiting.
A shop by the roadside β not really a shop, just a local home.
Rice noodles with fried sauce β pretty good, especially the bone broth, which was very savory. Roasted corn on the cob β fragrant.
The second largest monastery in Muli β not actually big, but the carvings on the building are very delicate. Inside the main hall, itβs ornate yet rustic β marks of time.
The mountain roads made us a bit carsick. Surrounded by mountains, the water was very blue.
Yak milk from a herder's family
Turns out yak milk is naturally sweet, quite sweet like itβs been sweetened.
The butter tea here is also especially rich β I never knew butter tea could have such a strong milky flavor. And it was the first time I saw butter tea being hand-churned.
A dairy product β I forgot its name β a bit sour and astringent, like clotted yogurt, but probably very nutritious.
Much larger than Kangwu Grand Monastery, a Gelugpa monastery.
The exterior is magnificent, the colors inside the main hall are very new β clearly well-maintained and renovated.
The second floor houses many scriptures.
Around the main hall, there are many ruins.
From sunset to starry sky to sunrise β perfect.
At 8:30 p.m., the Milky Way was clearly visible. Looking up, the sky was full of stars, and shooting stars streaked by frequently.
The sunrise at Mana Chajin observation deck shows golden sunlight on 11 snow-capped peaks above 5,000 meters simultaneously, with three layers of sea of clouds and a halo belt. The centerpiece is the famous Three Sacred Mountains of Yading: from left to right, Yangmaiyong, East Slope of Xianuoduoji, and Xiannairi. The cost? Staying above 4,500 meters β no electricity, no water, no signal β freezing cold. But witnessing the entire sunrise process was incredibly breathtaking β worth it!
The observation deck is undeveloped; you can drive up directly.
Accommodation at Mana Chajin: Tibetan home
Their house is just a few minutes' drive down from the observation deck.
They have many standard twin rooms, but no electricity or running water. If there are many guests, they might generate power for 2-3 hours, then you rely on flashlights. No electricity is okay, but no water means no washing. Worse, the toilet is across the road β a pit latrine.
D3 10.2 Mana Chajin - Daocheng, Stay: Jinzhu Town
The road from Mana Chajin to Daocheng is poor, dusty, and winding along the mountainside β truly feels like the difficulty of Shu roads.
On the way to Genie, we saw a golden forest β already feeling the autumn atmosphere.
D4 10.3 Daocheng - Litang - Genie, Xiazetong Village, Genie's Eye, Genie Sacred Mountain, Stay: Genie Naiganduo Village
The scenery from Daocheng to Genie is quite beautiful, with several viewpoints along the way.
Entering Genie, we first arrived at Xiazetong Village, which is Dingzhen's hometown. Meeting Dingzhen is impossible, but his hometown is truly beautiful. Xiazetong Village has a small wooden cabin accommodation facing Genie Sacred Mountain β a great location. Actually, there are many accommodation options, including new and better hotels.
Genie's Eye, Genie Sacred Mountain
I didn't bring a drone, so the photo of Genie's Eye only looks vaguely like an eye.
But this is a great spot for sunset and sunrise views of Genie Sacred Mountain, thanks to the reflections.
When we visited, some people were horse racing β very cool.
The autumn colors of the forests and valleys rival Xinjiang's Kanas.
Accommodation at Genie: Naiganduo Village
A newly opened place β finding such conditions in this village is already impressive; we were prepared for roughing it.
The room was clean, a standard twin room. Shared bathroom with hot water from an electric water heater β all hot water depends on it, so showering was difficult, and we didn't plan to.
In the evening, the villagers danced β like local square dancing. Some wore ethnic costumes β very lively.
But the accommodation doesn't provide meals β only instant noodles for sale, and otherwise just plain rice and potatoes. No breakfast either β only rice to cook yourself. I suggest bringing your own food.
D5 10.4 New Lenggu Monastery, Old Lenggu Monastery, Genie - Batang, Stay: Batang
After watching the sunrise at Genie, we went to New Lenggu Monastery. A prayer ceremony was happening, so the main hall wasn't open for visiting β we didn't see the Three Treasures of Genie.
From New Lenggu Monastery, you can ride a horse to Old Lenggu Monastery. The horse caravan is at the entrance, 380 yuan per person. Previously, motorcycles were available, but due to safety concerns, theyβve been banned β now it's an officially organized horse caravan.
Now you have two options: horse ride or hiking. One-way takes over an hour; most of the path is easy, with some rough sections.
Old Lenggu Monastery is very close to Genie Sacred Mountain, a Gelugpa monastery with over a thousand years of history. Locals still take long walks to pray there. We met an uncle who gave explanations, making the visit more interesting. The young horse guide also took us up a steep rocky path to drink from a miraculous medicinal spring that supposedly cures stomach ailments β it was the toughest road I've ever walked. They said if I had come two years earlier, the guide would have been 'Zhenzhen' (Dingzhen).
From Genie to Batang β what a heavenly road! The scenery was gorgeous, and ours was the only car on the road β it felt like a dream. The pass was over 4,900 meters β getting out to take a photo made me feel dizzy.
The southern route of Genie is absolutely stunning.
D6 10.5 Batang - Baba Gou, Baba Sea, Dongba Village, - Gaiyu - Baiyu, Stay: Baiyu
The color of Baba Sea is even purer and clearer than Jiuzhaigou β like a gem. They say whether it's sunny or rainy, the water is always that saturated blue-green.
From Baba Sea to Dongba Village, it took over two hours of driving on high-altitude gravel roads, some sections very rough β truly deep in the mountains. Looking down from above, the village sits in a remarkable geographical position: surrounded by mountains, with sunlight exactly hitting this small, relatively flat hillside. Hu Bayi would definitely say the feng shui is good here. The village has about twenty people, living off yaks and caterpillar fungus. The villagers are very simple β maybe this is what seclusion is like. Below Dongba Village is Xiba Village β it looks close, but the route is far.
This is a place that shouldn't be disturbed, but I feel the people inside want to go out and be known. The villagers came to welcome us when we entered, and eventually sent us off on motorcycles to the main road β walking up would have been exhausting.
They genuinely welcome tourists. Some young people said they can provide accommodation, with yak meat, barbecue, yak milk, etc. β a Tibetan home experience. The main issue is transportation; they said they could arrange pick-up and drop-off at Baba Gou or the county. I hope this village, beautiful as an oil painting, retains its precious original character andεεΏ after gaining attention.
Baiyu county town is well-built β buildings neat and uniform, clean and tidy, with murals on walls. In the distance, you can see a monastery on the mountain.
Dinner: Pingtouge Restaurant
Randomly found near accommodation β unexpectedly delicious.
Boiled beef β spicy and numbing, tender meat with plenty of vegetables.
Green pepper with meat slices β fragrant and flavorful.
Fish-flavored eggplant β oily in appearance, soft and tender.
D7 10.6 Baiyu - Ganbai Road - G317, Tongcui Lake, Stay: Ganzi
Ganbai Road - G317
Ganbai Road offers beautiful scenery all the way β from river valleys to forests to grasslands to snowy mountains. The G317 section is also very scenic.
Passed by Lacuo National Wetland Park β still under development.
Originally planned to visit Ase Village in Yinduo Township for Danxia landforms, but the road was newly built and not open to the public.
Three lakes in one glance, each a different color. The middle one is more like a pond. Using a drone, we saw a further lake blocked by a mountain β unreachable on foot.
High-altitude lakes are always so captivating β crystal clear like glass.
Dinner: Chengdu Family Restaurant
An 11-year-old restaurant, large but seemed a bit quiet. The owner, from Chengdu, admitted that the pandemic has heavily impacted business, plus the increasing diversity of travel routes has scattered tourists.
The taste was excellent.
Potato stewed with ribs β no gamey taste, very fresh and tender, potatoes soft and flavorful.
Stir-fried liver and kidney β a famous Sichuan dish, but only liver available, no kidney β still tasty.
Home-style tofu β cooked with wok hei.
D8 10.7 Cuoka Lake, Zhayi Monastery, Stay: Xinlong
Cuoka Lake requires driving up the mountain. No gate, but someone stops you to collect fees: 10 yuan per person, 20 yuan per car.
Cuoka Lake's reflections are beautiful β suitable for a picnic and afternoon tea by the lake. The monastery belongs to the Nyingma school (Red Hat).
After crossing mountains, we reached Zhayi Monastery. There was a sign at the entrance, but no signs at subsequent forks β we took a wrong road. It took about an hour of mountain driving. Then a small path downhill β not good, about 5-10 minutes walk, also unmarked.
Zhayi Monastery is built on a cliff, over 800 years old. Originally a meditation retreat for the high monk Zhaxi Jiangcuo. Currently, one lama stays to guard the temple, but he wasn't there β we couldn't enter, so we didn't see the well-preserved mural.
D9 10.8 Larima Town, Stay: Daofu
From Xinlong to Larima Town, we encountered road construction with closures lasting hours. But once finished, the road will be excellent β built to national highway standards.
Larima Grassland is beautiful β they say in July and August, it's full of wildflowers, changing color every 15 days. When you hesitate to choose the best spot to stop and take photos, the grassland ends before you decide β life seems similar.
Larima Town is a village on the grassland. Taizhou is providing assistance; in five years, it will become a mature tourist spot with star-gazing rooms, grass sliding, etc. The specialty is slate Tibetan houses. At the village entrance, there is a large statue of Padmasambhava, and on the mountain, his mantra is carved β so the whole village is Nyingma.
Currently, a viewing platform on the mountain is almost complete, offering a panoramic view of the village.
Larima to Daofu is actually close β about an hour's drive with decent mountain roads.
Dinner: Himalayan Kitchen
Tibetan-style decoration β after so many days in small villages, this restaurant seemed quite extravagant.
Limited menu, displayed on an iPad.
Yogurt β thick, homemade and very sour.
Beef under a cover of bread β the bread is good, wrap it with beef and vegetables (onion, potato, etc.) β large portion.
Butter mushrooms β fragrant, reminiscent of escargot.
Potato pie β bread filled with mashed potatoes β tasty.
Stir-fried wild mushrooms with cured pork β strong flavor, both mushrooms and pork good.
D10 10.9 Qimei Township, Jiayila Lake, Hongmu Haizi - Dangling Village - Danba, Stay: Danba
Qimei Township has lush water and grass β beautiful scenery all the way. Passed a golden and splendid monastery.
At the foot of the mountain for Jiayila Lake, someone blocked the road and charged 120 yuan for a motorcycle ride up. Actually, the road is perfectly fine for off-road vehicles, and the hike is easy, about 4-5 km β if you have time, you can walk, as the scenery is nice.
Jiayila Lake has emerald green water and charming autumn colors β refreshing.
About 20 km from Jiayila Lake, this lake is deep inside a herderβs grassland β the road was extremely rough.
A motorcycle took me deep into the grassland, then a horse took me through rocky terrain, and the last stretch was on foot β finally saw the serene Hongmu Haizi. We also saw marmots in the grassland. The herders were very hospitable, inviting us for yak milk and a meal β we experienced the joy of eating butter straight β it was delicious.
The lake itself isn't worth seeing β I don't recommend going, because the horse ride on the rocky path was dangerous; the horse stumbled on the rocks, and being carried was nerve-wracking. But the experience at the herder's home was very nice.
Danba dinner: Wanglaowu Restaurant
Chose a 10-year-old restaurant near our accommodation, on the second floor β easy to miss.
Ordered a fish with tofu β too spicy, average taste.
Wild mushroom and spare rib soup β huge bowl, tasty broth, generous ribs and mushrooms β good.
Egg with shredded pork β lots of seasoning, very savory from the seasoning.
D11 10.10 Danba - Xiaojin - Siguniang Mountain - Chengdu, Chengdu to Shanghai by flight
No attractions arranged from Danba to Chengdu. Took a quick look at the entrance of Siguniang Mountain β bad weather, saw a bit of snow mountain.
In Chengdu, first checked out a trendy landmark: the giant panda at IFS. From the ground floor, you can see the panda's rear; from the 7th-floor terrace, you see the front. Many people queuing for photos β we just snapped one from the side.
A restaurant recommended on the must-eat list β an old establishment.
Oil-drizzled duck β delicious, fresh, tender, flavorful β like soy-sauce duck but drier.
Assorted braised items β ribs, pig ears, chicken hearts, chicken, tofu β okay, nothing special.
Stir-fried goose intestines with fresh peppers β very numbing, intestines well-prepared and crispy, but not particularly tasty.
Healthy stir-fry β yam, snow peas, black fungus, carrots β just wanted some vegetables.
Brown sugar guokui β a bit stiff inside, but okay.
After dinner, many people were queuing to buy buns.
Xiyuecheng Tan Douhua
After savory, on to sweet.
Iced douhua with wine β 7 yuan β tastes like fermented rice, strong bean flavor, slightly coarser than Shanghai's douhua β not bad.
Brown sugar douhua β a bit odd β served hot, looks like soy sauce but tastes like brown sugar.
Tianfu International Airport
About 60 km from the city center β far, but convenient transportation: Metro Line 18 direct, about an hour.
The airport is large and new, not crowded, security fast. Facilities advanced β facial recognition all the way, no contact. Digital screens outside restrooms show layout and congestion levels.
End this travelogue with the delicious Sichuan cuisine we enjoyed these days.
