Yunnan: Land of Colorful Clouds, Endless Memories – 15-Day Journey Through Yunnan

📍 Kunming · 👁 2 reads · ❤️ 120 likes

In July 2021, I spent half a month traveling through Kunming, Dali, Lijiang, Shangri-La, and Xishuangbanna with my parents.

The overall pace was very comfortable, and we covered all the iconic sights. I prepared for half a month in advance, booking all day trips, hotels, and flights online, and we hardly encountered any pitfalls.

Thanks to the impact of the pandemic, even during the summer peak season, each attraction had relatively few visitors, resulting in a fantastic experience. Inn prices and dining in ancient towns were also very reasonable. The total cost for the entire trip (including transportation, accommodation, tour products, private car hires, and local specialties and fruits) averaged around 7,800 yuan per person.

The trip was semi-independent: we joined small, non-shopping group tours when needed and hired private cars along the way. The itinerary wasn’t tight and felt quite leisurely, yet we managed to experience nearly everything worth seeing and doing.

Yunnan has stunning scenery and wonderful people—I'll definitely return someday.

(As of July 2021, the passenger railway to Xishuangbanna had not yet opened, so we flew in and out of Xishuangbanna. The railway is now in service, making trips to Xishuangbanna more economical and convenient.)

There were no direct flights from my hometown to Kunming, so we arrived in Tianjin a day early. We departed from Tianjin in the morning and landed at Kunming Airport around 1:30 p.m. After a taxi ride to our pre-booked hotel downtown, it was about three in the afternoon.

(Many hotels and inns in Yunnan have triple rooms, which are convenient for family travelers. The hotel I booked in Kunming was a triple room with two bedrooms, offering both private space and the ability to look after each other, and the price was very reasonable.)

Toward evening, we took a taxi to Dianchi Lake. You can feed the pigeons here and take photos at the "Mirror of the Sky" photo spot (10 yuan per person). Yunnan has so many beautiful sights that Dianchi Lake felt a little less impressive by comparison.

The next day we joined a day tour I had booked online in advance. The Stone Forest is very famous and a must-see. But if you only visit the Stone Forest, the return trip is quite early, so I chose a combination tour of the Stone Forest and Jiuxiang. It turned out to be absolutely worth it. The underground river at Jiuxiang is breathtaking (photos don’t do it justice)—the thundering water makes you feel very small. The karst cave is also worth visiting; it's completely different from the Silver Cave I saw in Guilin. The cave here is enormous, with the Lion Hall covering over 10,000 square meters under a single intact ceiling slab. At Jiuxiang you can also enjoy a short rafting trip through a narrow gorge waterway, with a boatman steering so you can simply admire the scenery and take photos. We returned to the city around six or seven in the evening.

For dinner we ate at Qiaoxiangyuan Cross-Bridge Rice Noodles. I recommend ordering the simplest, classic version. It tasted great!

(Whenever I travel with my parents, I really enjoy booking local pure-play, no-shopping day tours and slightly longer two-day tours. They’re convenient and good value, but you must read reviews carefully and choose quality tour products—never go for cheap shopping tours.)

After breakfast, we took the high-speed train to Dali.

Right outside the railway station, you’ll find a tourist shuttle bus stop that can take you directly to Dali Ancient Town—very convenient. The tourist transportation system in Dali is excellent. There are direct shuttle buses between the Dali city station, scenic spots in Dali, and even to Lijiang. You can check shuttle times and buy tickets online at "Dali Tourism Services." However, you need to confirm the right boarding point at Dali Ancient Town (there’s more than one) and leave enough time to avoid going to the wrong one.

From the drop-off point at Dali Ancient Town, it was about a 10-minute walk to our pre-booked inn near the South Gate. I highly recommend staying near the South Gate—it’s convenient for dining, transport, and sightseeing. After a short rest, in the afternoon we took a ride-hailing car to Xizhou Ancient Town.

I’ve visited too many ancient towns across China, but what makes Xizhou unique and memorable is the wheat field—vivid green and very open. My mother adored it. There are narrow paths through the fields you can walk along; standing among the wheat makes for stunning photos. The visit took about two hours.

We took another ride-hailing car back to the ancient town. We wandered around the ancient town a bit, then had dinner outside the South Gate before resting at the inn.

We got up early the next morning and took a taxi to the morning market at the North Gate—both to buy breakfast and to stock up on blueberries. The blueberries there were incredibly cheap, fresh, and delicious, picked and sold directly by nearby villagers. The morning market is mostly locals, selling vegetables, fruit, and fresh flowers. The air in the ancient town in the early morning is crisp and fresh—if you have time, it’s worth a stroll to soak up the atmosphere.

After breakfast, we visited Cangshan Mountain. We used the direct shuttle bus mentioned earlier. You can buy Cangshan cable car tickets online that include round-trip shuttle bus tickets. The shuttle makes a stop along the way where you can voluntarily rent a down coat (30 yuan per coat at the time—much cheaper than at the summit; the outer layer is waterproof, like a raincoat) and oxygen bottles. It's completely optional. I highly recommend renting the coat because the weather up the mountain can be very different from down below. On the day we went, it was sunny and clear at the foot, but the summit was shrouded in thick fog with a heavy downpour—bone-chillingly cold. (Due to the fog, we could see almost nothing at the summit, which was a regret of the trip.) Alternatively, you could bring thick clothes or a windbreaker and decide whether to rent a coat based on the conditions at the summit. But be sure to wear comfortable shoes—there are many steps to climb on Cangshan.

There are three cable car routes on Cangshan. The longest one with the best views is the Ximatan Cableway, which goes all the way to the summit. It’s also the most expensive. If your health permits, I recommend this one, and it’s the one I chose. However, this cableway will close on windy days—it only allows descent, not ascent—so check the weather before booking online.

Although the summit was foggy and we couldn’t see Ximatan, when the gondola dipped below the clouds, we could see a panoramic view of Dali Ancient Town and Erhai Lake—absolutely beautiful!

Around three in the afternoon, we took a taxi to our inn in Shuanglang Ancient Town. I had pre-booked a lake-view room with a perfect location: a large balcony with floor-to-ceiling windows, a spacious balcony outside with recliners to relax and enjoy the breeze and lake scenery. The balcony directly overlooks Erhai Lake. My parents loved the room. After a few busy days, we were a little tired, so it was just the right environment to rest and enjoy the slow tempo of travel.

There are many inns like this in Shuanglang. If you want to fully experience Erhai Lake, I recommend staying in Shuanglang.

Since we had already visited Xizhou and Dali, today’s Erhai Lake tour started from Shuanglang Ancient Town, followed the East Shore route, and finished at Dali Railway Station.

Because I was traveling with my parents, I didn’t choose a self-drive rental or cycling (I wouldn’t consider cycling or e-bikes for future trips either—Yunnan’s ultraviolet rays are extremely strong and it’s easy to get sunburned; be sure to use sun protection in Yunnan). Our private car driver was arranged online in advance—450 yuan for a day, with the departure time and route agreed the day before. The driver not only drove but also served as our part-time photographer. While not a professional, he was much better than most amateurs, and all the photos he took were given to us. Being a local, he knew every photo-worthy spot. This was a day I felt was truly worthwhile—the pace was slow, with frequent stops, mainly to take nice photos of my family as keepsakes.

We set out at 10:30 in the morning and arrived at Dali Railway Station a little after five in the afternoon. My parents took the high-speed train to Lijiang, while I had to rush back to Kunming by train for a personal matter.

I had also pre-booked the Lijiang inn and arranged with the owner—for an extra fee—to have a car pick my parents up at Lijiang Railway Station and drop them at the inn. The inn is near Zhongyi Market, which makes getting in and out of the ancient town easy, and it’s also convenient to tell a guide where to pick you up for local day tours. Zhongyi Market has a night market with lots of food; we strolled there nearly every evening in Lijiang. There are also plenty of fruit vendors selling fresh, cheap produce.

I didn’t go to Lugu Lake myself, so I can’t speak from personal experience—no photos here. My parents joined a day tour I had booked online in advance. It was a small group, and they said the scenery was very beautiful.

No sightseeing was planned for this day—we just wandered around Lijiang Ancient Town, taking it easy. When we got tired, we went back to the inn to rest; when hungry, we found a restaurant with nice ambiance to try local specialties. Life in Lijiang was very pleasant.

The first stop was Tiger Leaping Gorge.

I’d visited the Hukou Waterfall before, but Tiger Leaping Gorge felt even more dramatic and had a different character. To reach the viewing platform here, you need to climb many steps. If you don’t want to climb, you can buy a ticket for the elevator.

The second stop was Pudacuo National Park.

A national forest park, all about forests and lakes. You can explore by boat or on foot. Most people walk, but taking a boat probably offers a different perspective. Along the walking path, you might spot cute little squirrels.

The third stop was the Tibetan chieftain’s banquet in the evening, which was basically a mini hotpot. There was plenty of meat, but only a few vegetables—just potatoes and cabbage, as expected on a high plateau. It may not suit everyone’s taste, but it’s mainly about experiencing the local customs and the lively atmosphere.

On fine days, there’s an outdoor bonfire party, but on the day we went, it rained, so only indoor activities were held.

In Shangri-La, we stayed in a loft suite in a courtyard-style hotel with strong Tibetan character—very memorable and comfortable. I was very satisfied.

If you go to Shangri-La, consider bringing anti-altitude-sickness medicine; it’s usually taken before bed, as Shangri-La is at a high altitude.

The second day of the two-day tour didn’t have major sights. In the morning, we went horseback riding, a paid optional activity included in nearly all online tour packages. It’s best not to carry a bag while riding; try not to wear a skirt, as the horses may startle; and if you’re nervous, someone will lead the horse. Yunnan’s horses are pony-sized, unlike the ones I rode in Inner Mongolia. At noon we went to the guide’s home for lunch, where we could try butter tea, tsampa, dried yak meat, and other treats—all quite tasty. You could buy Tibetan saffron, notoginseng, and other medicinal herbs there, but there was no pressure to buy. We returned to Lijiang in the afternoon.

Compared with Dali and Lijiang, I personally felt Shangri-La was slightly less exciting. If your travel time is limited, you could save it for another trip. But if you have enough time, go ahead and visit—Shangri-La is so famous, it’s worth seeing so you don’t leave with regrets.

For Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, I booked a 5-person small group tour online, with the option of an early or late departure. We chose an early start and were among the first to take the cable car up. The mountain wasn’t crowded. However, in late July, there’s no snow to see—only glaciers.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain requires climbing many steps; walk slowly and use your oxygen frequently. We were very lucky: when we went up, the weather was relatively good and we could see the glaciers. By the time we descended and the later tour groups were heading up, fog had rolled in with very low visibility, so they could barely see the glaciers. Weather at the summit is unpredictable—traveling in Yunnan requires a bit of good luck. Jade Dragon Snow Mountain was my dad’s and my favorite scenic spot.

After taking the cable car down, just follow the crowd, and you’ll board a bus to Blue Moon Valley. I had visited Jiuzhaigou with my parents a few years earlier, and Blue Moon Valley is a bit like Jiuzhaigou, with blue-green water.

There are two shows in Lijiang: "Impression Lijiang" and "The Romance of Lijiang." I’d watched local shows like these on previous trips, but none left a deep impression. After doing research online, this time I chose "Impression Lijiang."

"Impression Lijiang" is the only daytime outdoor live performance, and when the weather is clear, you can see Jade Dragon Snow Mountain behind the stage forming a natural backdrop. The performers aren’t professional actors but villagers from nearby ethnic groups, so the feeling is incredibly authentic. There are no lights or stage sets—just blue sky, snow-capped peaks, and the people who live on this land presenting their history, daily life, and stories in the oldest, most traditional, and purest form. I absolutely loved this performance; it had a huge personal impact.

Midway through the show, a heavy rainstorm hit, but the performers were so dedicated—they carried on in their traditional costumes (which must have been very heavy when wet) until the very end. I recommend that all audience members take a free raincoat at the entrance when going in. Yunnan’s weather changes fast, and umbrellas aren’t allowed during the performance, so the raincoat will keep you dry and prevent you from having to leave in the middle.

We rested in the morning, and after lunch took a taxi to the airport and flew to Xishuangbanna.

We checked into an inn located in Gaozhuang Xishuangjing, just a few minutes’ walk from Starlight Night Market. The environment was nice and quiet.

(Xishuangbanna has a tropical climate with lots of vegetation and insects. I even saw many geckos there—as a northerner, I wasn’t used to them and felt a little frightened!)

In Dali and Lijiang in July, we wore long sleeves and long pants in the mornings and evenings. But Xishuangbanna has a typically tropical climate, and as a northerner, it took a while to adjust. The weather was muggy and hot. We took a taxi to Manting Park and had to stop every short while to rest. Manting Park is rich in ethnic character and was once the royal garden of the Dai chieftain.

Manting Park is also a very representative attraction in the city—you can see architecture, plants, temples, and even an elephant show. After entering Manting Park through the main gate, there’s a small gate leading to the Zongfo Temple; after visiting the temple, you can use your original ticket to re-enter Manting Park and continue your tour. Our ride-hailing driver said that if you don’t have particular religious beliefs and simply want to get a feel for it, after seeing Zongfo Temple you could skip the Great Buddha Temple.

Starlight Night Market is incredibly lively, with food, fun, souvenirs, and lots of vendors selling Dai ethnic clothing—be sure to bargain. Treat the night market as an experience; don’t blindly trust the touted travel photography services on the street. If you want photos, do your research online in advance and choose a reliable studio and photographer, or visit the many storefronts (ubiquitous along the street), compare their costumes and sample photos, and then decide.

The Great Golden Pagoda is also at the night market. Every evening in Xishuangbanna, I’d come here to stroll and window-shop—so relaxing.

On this day I joined a pure-play day tour, and most of the group were parents with children. Upon entering, you can see elephants, lizards, and butterflies. A small surprise: when I left the butterfly pavilion, a butterfly landed on my hat and only flew off more than half an hour later—a little serendipity of travel. To look for wild elephants, you walk along a boardwalk or take a cable car. Nobody in our group took the cable car; walking in the forest felt pleasant, and you could turn back anytime when tired. One family in our group took their child on a "rainforest elephant walk," where you can stroll up close with a mother and baby elephant through the forest. If you’re interested, you can look into that activity.

We had no luck seeing wild elephants that day, only the elephant show at the park. The hot weather killed our appetite, so we skipped the group lunch and ordered a la carte while watching the show—not expensive, and the food tasted fine.

Besides elephants, another must-see in Xishuangbanna is peacocks. The peacock flying display is the signature attraction of the Primitive Forest Park here—I’d never seen so many peacocks in my life, nor ever seen a peacock fly. The park also has a small-scale water-splashing activity. We didn’t join in, just watched from the side, but we still felt the joy and enthusiasm.

After the tour dispersed, my mother and I went to a travel photography studio I’d selected online. The photo locations and poses were fairly formulaic and over quickly, but the results were good—they gave us all the original files and ten retouched photos as a keepsake.

I’m not particularly interested in plants, but since we were there, we had to visit the Tropical Botanical Garden.

The garden has a lovely environment with all sorts of exotic tree species. However, what I remember most vividly now is the Victoria amazonica (giant water lily). It can support the weight of a person—children or lighter women can sit on it for photos. The tour group that day also had many children, and I heard you can take kids on a night tour of the garden for a different kind of experience.

At noon, we took a flight back to Beijing.

Travelogue Contents

1. Preface

2. Day 1: Tianjin – Kunming

3. Day 2: Stone Forest – Jiuxiang

4. Day 3: Kunming – Dali, Xizhou Ancient Town

5. Day 4: Cangshan – Shuanglang Ancient Town

6. Day 5: Erhai Lake Tour (private car) – Lijiang

7. Day 6: Lugu Lake

8. Day 7: Lijiang Ancient Town

9. Day 8-9: Two-Day Trip to Shangri-La

10. Day 10: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain – Blue Moon Valley – Impression Lijiang