Daguan Lou
Daguan Lou is renowned for its “Number One Long Couplet Under Heaven.” I once memorized it but have since forgotten.
The park gate, built by Tang Jiyao, bears the three characters “Daguan Lou” inscribed by Sun Zhu.
Daguan Lou Park lies southwest of Kunming. Once known as Jinhua Pu (“Near-Flower Bank”), as recorded in Ma Rulong’s Rebuilding Daguan Lou (1866): “Kunming has many mountains but scarce water; therefore Dianchi Lake is a vast expanse. On its shore is a bank called Jinhua, named for its proximity to Mount Taihua.” In the early Ming dynasty, Mu Ying built the “Western Garden” here, facing the northern shores of Dianchi’s Caohai.
Once one has seen the sea, no water compares; ready to ascend the tower, first moor the boat.
Just as the lotus blossoms began to open in the lake, I snapped a couple of photos for my little bestie.
The tower was first built in 1690 (29th year of Kangxi reign) by Governor Wang Jiwen. Renovated in 1828 (8th year of Daoguang reign) when it was raised to three storeys. In 1857 (7th year of Xianfeng) both the tower and the long couplet were destroyed by war. In 1866 (5th year of Tongzhi) Yunnan Commander Ma Rulong rebuilt it; after further flood damage in 1876, Governor Cen Yuying repaired it again in 1883 (9th year of Guangxu).
The heavenly mirror spreads level: across a thousand acres of emerald, in light and dark, a landscape painting of farming and mulberry. The cloud screen stands eternally: behold myriad peaks in verdure, dense and faint, encircling the scale of this pavilion. —— Wang Jiwen
A tower springs abrupt: coming here, the heart opens wide, washing away much worldly dust. Crystal clear, water and moon merge; through its mending, wisdom should gain a share. —— Wang Jiwen
Looking out on the sea, recall the past: sighing at towering waves and surging tides — oh, that Dian Lake ever be calm, and a precarious realm become a happy land again. Ascending the tower on this fine day: see gentle winds over the six Zhao, splendid clouds along the three Yi — henceforth let this high tower stand forever, keeping still waters from rippling. —— Couplet by Cen Yubao, younger brother of Cen Yuying
Sun Ranweng, a poet of the Kangxi-Qianlong period, called himself “One Cloth-Gowned Commoner Amid Ten Thousand Plum Trees.” His collected works are “Poems from Yongyan Hall.” He accompanied his father, a military officer, to Yunnan. His long couplet for Daguan Lou has earned him a lasting place in literary history. Moving from scene to feeling, it is praised as “The Finest Long Couplet in China,” “The Greatest Long Couplet of All Time,” “Number One Long Couplet Under Heaven,” and more.
Unappreciated and impoverished, before his death he wrote his own couplet: “This time I came in a hurry; fame-chasing heart and worldly cares — after all, foolish to the end? This time I depart in peace; debts of poetry and wine — whom have I ever wronged?”
His tomb lies in Mile City, with a couplet carved beside it: “An ancient tomb west of town guards a proud spirit; a noted scholar of southern Yunnan — a commoner in cloth.”
On the ornamental pillar before the tomb is carved an 80-character couplet composed in 1893 (19th year of Guangxu) by Mile tribute student Yang Xiaoyun:
Reading Daguan Lou’s long couplet has long won universal praise. With duckweed skies and reed-covered earth, dipping brush in ink that shines — what talent does a commoner possess? Through repeated disasters on Kunming Lake, he still left an indelible text. Half a li from the Yishuang Gate, the tomb mound still winds around; sigh over broken steles and worn tablets — how many famous men have faded? Our generation is not meddlesome; we simply preserve a proud southern Yunnan spirit to serve as a model for later worthies.
The tablet over Daguan Lou was originally written by Wang Jiwen and selected for carving by Ma Rulong.
On the second floor hangs a plaque reading “Rousing Waves a Thousand Layers.” Accompanying couplet: “Dragon plume confers fragrance from ten thousand li; from the dragon palace rise a thousand waves.”
In 1855, the Xianfeng Emperor bestowed the plaque “Rousing Waves a Thousand Layers” for Daguan Lou. Ma Rulong’s postscript recounts: “In the dingmao year (1855), Vice Minister of War He Tongyun, while attending the Southern Study, was asked by His Majesty about the scenery of Dianchi. Tongyun described Daguan Lou in detail, thus honored to receive the imperial inscription ‘Rousing Waves a Thousand Layers’ to be displayed on this tower. How splendid!”
A man full of regret, swallowing one bubble of the vast sea — how can I wash away the lumps in my heart? Though not quite paradise, resting a hundred feet high in this tower, one can still wander in the dreamland of Huaxu. —— Chen Rongchang
Such splendid scenery — I raise a cup to the breeze, smilingly pointing north at cloud-capped hills. This pavilion is the ultimate sight; I halt my carriage a while, casually praising the southward views from the Huai River.
The main hall’s door couplet is Sun Ranweng’s famous 180-character long couplet. In 1888, Governor-General Cen Yuying commissioned Zhao Fan to write it in Yan-style calligraphy.
A version in running script by Sun’s contemporary, the scholar Lu Shutang, once hung on the second floor.
Five hundred li of Dianchi Lake surge before my eyes. I throw open my robe, bare my head, delighted by the boundless, empty vastness. Look: divine steeds gallop east, auspicious birds soar west, winding northward, white streaks glide south. Refined men and poets, why not choose a scenic spot to ascend? Make the most of crab isles and spiral shoals, combed into phoenix coiffures amid mist; with duckweed skies and reed-covered earth, dotted with kingfisher feathers and rosy clouds. Do not fail to enjoy: fragrant rice paddies all around, ten thousand acres of sunny sand, midsummer lotus blooms, spring willows through three seasons.
Thousands of years of history pour into my heart. Raising wine to the void, I sigh: among the rushing heroes, who remains? Recall Han troops training on warships, Tang casting iron pillars, Song brandishing the jade axe, Yuan crossing on leather rafts. Mighty deeds and grand triumphs — all exhausted mountain-moving strength. All those pearl curtains and painted halls cannot outlast evening rain and morning clouds; broken steles and worn tablets are now left to grey mists and setting sun. All that remains: a few scattered bell tolls, fishing lights dotting half the river, two lines of autumn geese, a pillow of clear frost.
Qing critic Wu Yangxian wrote: “With iron clappers and bronze pipa, the old man ran wild with talent. One hundred and eighty characters on the tower — like the Yellow Crane Tower inscription, a name for eternity.”
Modern commentator Liu Runzhi said: “Sun Ranweng’s Daguan Lou couplet is magnificent, shining across the universe; among long couplets in China, it deserves to be ranked first.”
When Chairman Mao read “Anecdotes of Couplets,” he liked it so much he could recite it from memory, commenting: “Unprecedented in history, creating a style of its own.”
Dianchi is not Kunming Lake; mistaking it for the Han training ships is an omission. The Han county was originally Changgu; tracing back to the opening of borders, Zhuang Qiao indeed missed this. —— Zhao Fan
Inside the ground floor hall, alongside Sun Ranweng’s, are hung another version by Jing Le and an altered couplet by late-Qing Governor-General Ruan Yuan, for comparison.
Five hundred li of Dianchi Lake surge before my eyes. Leaning on the railing I gaze far, delighted by boundless waves without end! Look: golden horses prance east, green cockerels soar west, Panlong coils north, Baoxiang is tamed in the south. Noble men and poets regret letting time flow by. On crab isles and spiral shoals, set against green cliffs and emerald crags; under duckweed skies and reed-covered earth, now reclaim the thin mist and fading clouds. Do not fail to enjoy: fragrant rice all around, ten thousand acres of gull sands, midsummer lotus blooms, spring willows.
Thousands of years of history pour into my heart. Raising wine to the void, I sigh: among the rushing heroes, who remains? Recall Han training on warships, Tang iron pillars, Song jade axe, Yuan leather rafts. The Cuan chiefs and Meng leaders exhausted mountain-moving strength. All those pearl curtains and painted halls cannot outlast evening rain and morning clouds; moss-covered steles and lichened tablets are all surrendered to barren mists and setting sun. Only a few scattered bell tolls, fishing lights dotting half the river, two lines of wild geese, a whole stretch of vicissitudes.
Chairman Mao criticized Ruan Yuan’s revision as “turning gold into iron.”
Compared with Yueyang Tower and Yellow Crane Tower, equally majestic and unique, each renowned across the universe; embracing the splendors of Kunming Sea and Green Cockerel, let’s enjoy the view together and not waste fine days in vain. —— Tian Yunlong
Morning clouds bring rain, dusk mists fly smoke; the world changes from past to present. Only the unchanged Western Hills remain always before our eyes. Snow-white waves swallow the sky, wind-blown billows sweep the land. Heroes are all washed away. I ask the Dian waters flowing backward: when will you turn around? —— Wang Can
Behind Daguan Lou.
On the second floor hangs a plaque inscribed “World of Mist and Waves,” written by Zhao Heqing (Songquan) of Yao’an.
Ground floor plaque reads “Truly a Grand Vista.” Couplet: “A thousand years of sentiment over three cups of wine; ten thousand li of cloud-capped mountains, a lone waterside pavilion.” Composed by Song Xiang.
Rockeries are scattered among the park’s pavilions and towers, adding artistic charm.
Colorful Cloud Cliff, built by Zhao Heqing.
The eucalyptus Zhu De planted with his own hands in 1922 now remains only as a root, evoking fond memories.
After Daguan Lou, Yongyue (Moon-Surging) Pavilion, and Chengbi (Clear Azure) Hall were built, “outer embankments were added, planted with peach and willow trees to enhance the lakeside scenery.” Henceforth, “refined visitors and poets chose the finest spots to ascend every day,” making it the “top scenic site in the provincial capital.” Grand officials held banquets by the lake; men of letters climbed the tower to compose poems and fu.
Guanjia Hall: Conch-shaped buns drift on the green mountain’s reclining Buddha; fresh fields shimmer green with sprouting rice shoots.
Plainly brilliant as snow congealed on the tree; pure fragrance fills the branches with the breeze.
Weary of touring Japan’s islands, need not talk of Swiss flowers, Fuji’s snow and moon; ascending this tower, through my telescope scrying an uninscribed text, I instantly know famous sights like Hanci and Yangchan, the Starry Northlands. After washing my eyes on West Lake, I leisure before Wuhua’s granaries, Taihua’s streams and hills; having observed the sea, I use a jade to gauge the earth and already feel dragons coiling and tigers crouching — the finest scenery in Nanjing. —— Li Ehua
Cuigeng Hall: Cloud-water light reflects the pure official’s carriage; rice-blossom fragrance comforts the old farmer’s heart.
Still bright are mountains and rivers, grey mist and white snow; how many times have men mourned the past? I smile at myself, a fisherman under green cape and broad hat amidst wind and moon — the rivers and lakes are full of earth, just one old angler. —— Tian Yunlong
Mumeng (Shepherd Dream) Pavilion, plaque inscribed by Tang Jiyao.
All worthies gather, boundless joy — with wine, poetry, and paintings; the old man here is not short of delight — this water, these hills, this tower. —— Shu Shaoxing
Yongyue Pavilion: Form is emptiness, emptiness is form; poetry holds painting, painting holds poetry.
Able to invite passing guests to drink in words; also to replace music with the rapids’ flow.
Where to pour out parting thoughts? Autumn water and grey reeds are just as they were; how to express farewell sorrow? A returning traveler under spring sail and fine rain.
Fishing hut morning mist clears; a loud cry and heaven and earth widen. Wilderness ferry at sunrise; suddenly a distant melody, sea and hills clear.
The Memorial Sacrifice Altar was once associated with Censor Wang; governance deeds recall Sai Pingzhang.
Sai Pingzhang refers to Sayyid Ajall Shams al-Din of the Yuan dynasty, who supervised the construction of Songhua Dam, Jinzhi River, Yinzhi River and other water conservancy projects in Kunming.
Seagulls frolic as people come and go; a sea of clouds clears my heart and mind. —— Zhang Ziming
Gazing far over sea and sky — how grand is this view! Amid boundless wind and rain, spirits naturally soar.
Opening the heavenly eye to probe heaven and earth; with a different heart, containing past and present. —— Chen Huichou
When flowery rain falls, fishes play; deep in willow shade, many birds sing.
Yang Shen spent his exile feasting on Dianchi’s scenery, a few cloud-sails a mere sketchbook; Sun Ranweng reflected on rise and fall, gaining Mount Taihua’s Zen awakening, a century’s sorrow cast into bell tones.
Men and women frolic, yet wish rain and wind won’t spoil fine days; past and present unchanged — only the landscape is truly a grand vista. —— Zhao Fan
Qianyin Hall: Seagulls peek at the seated guests, seeking kindred spirits; the moon imprinted on the pool, a flower that understands speech.
Jieyuan Pavilion: Let visitors come and act as masters of wind and moon; none fail to form ties with mountains and sea.
Guanyin Temple Huage site.
Huayan Pavilion originally had a long couplet also of 180 characters, composed by the monk Jing Le.
Terraced halls tower into the void, colorful clouds appear in the south. The imperial domain: a thousand peaks bow their heads, ten thousand streams pay homage; gold and jade shine together, mountains and rivers are majestic. Observe fine mists veiling greenery, dawn fog holding smoke. Morning light rises on crimson cliffs, grey cranes cry among pines. Evening sun hangs over green ridges, apes howl from rocky caves. Let tired hearts rest; focus on elegant spaciousness. Suddenly songs harmonize, breeze and moonlight delight. In tranquil mind, responding to each other, in moments of joy, point out the true face here.
Tiered towers reflect on water, the Buddha-sun hangs in the west. Imperial virtue embraces the six Zhao‘s conversion, all tribes submit; Kunming’s beauty gathers, the world is peaceful. Listen to Sanskrit chants, dharma sounds proclaimed aloud. Smile at flower-grasping on Vulture Peak, truth matches robe transmission; stand in snow at Shaolin, the Way emblem receives the bowl. Long cultivating pure conduct, Buddha’s thought is perfectly fused. Through successive holders, saint and mortal mingle. Mind’s source is wondrously clear, detaching from senses’ dust; in a state of no-mind, unleash this great light.
In the park, squirrels are often seen, lively and adorable.
