2012 National Day Golden Week – Guangdong, Hong Kong, Macau

Time flies, it's the National Day Golden Week again. It has become a routine that there are people everywhere during the Golden Week. Two years ago I retreated at the foot of Mount Heng, last year I waited at the top of Mount Wudang, and this year it's still not optimistic. The expressway even offers free tolls to add fuel to the crowd. If you don't want to squeeze, you have to pick a suitable place. Long ago, an old man drew a circle in the south, and we decided to go there and take a look.

Chaozhou

There are countless airports in Guangdong. After much research, our first stop was Chaozhou, to experience a different kind of Guangdong cuisine and to see the much-admired Guangji Bridge. We arrived in Chaozhou the day before the Golden Week. There were few people. The crowd at Jieyang Airport dispersed to Shantou, Meizhou and other surrounding cities. The airport bus took just a few of us to Chaozhou, and in less than an hour we reached the urban area. Along the way, both sides of the road were full of bathroom fixture advertisements. It turned out that this place is also the hometown of ceramics, which resonated deeply with us since we were renovating. A tricycle took us to the hotel. We dropped our luggage, freshened up and set off. The hotel was in the old city. Walking along the old city streets, we reached Kaiyuan Temple in ten minutes. There are many temples named Kaiyuan across the country. I had been to the one in Quanzhou before, which was grand and comfortable, with its twin pagodas being national treasures. This one had lost its former glory. Entering through the side gate, the first thing we saw was the newly built Dabei Hall, enshrining Guanyin. The construction was quite standard. Passing through another side gate, the old temple area appeared before us, with simple colors, not as bright as Dabei Hall, but still very charming. Through the construction fence we caught a glimpse of the stone scripture pillar. Walking onto the balustrade in front of the main hall, the Grand Hall stood before us. We paid our respects to the Buddha, watched the monks walking in the courtyard, and looked for the inconspicuous bronze cloud plaque. There was no guide here, so we had to explore on our own. Local devotees and lay Buddhists placed their faith here, and we considered ourselves as having visited.

Leaving Kaiyuan Temple, we walked along the old city paths, passing Memorial Arch Street. At an intersection we saw tangcong bing (sugar-onion pancake) and once again experienced A Bite of China – it was delicious. The traditional Chaozhou braised food made it hard to walk away, so we bought some braised items and sat at a roadside stall, ordering a few small dishes. But we lost control and ended up with four fried dishes on the table. We couldn't finish them, so we packed them up. After eating, we continued walking through the old city, passing the ancient city wall ruins and through Xiashui Gate. Across the road was the Han River. Guangji Bridge lay across the rolling Han River east of Chaozhou city. The Han River was wider than I had imagined, flowing straight to the sea, not inferior to the Huangpu River. There are many Guangji Bridges in China, but this one is the most famous. Chaozhou Guangji Bridge, commonly known as Xiangzi Bridge, is located outside the east gate of Chaozhou City and was an important thoroughfare between Fujian and Guangdong in ancient times. It ranks alongside Zhaozhou Bridge, Luoyang Bridge, and Lugou Bridge as one of the "Four Great Ancient Bridges of China" and is the first bascule pontoon bridge in China. With a history of over 800 years, I have also visited the other ancient bridges, and none of them claim to be one of the "Four Great". Only this place lists the four stone bridges, presumably aware that it can't compare with the others. Looking at the bridge from a distance, each section has a pavilion, quite newly built. It turns out that the bridge was renovated with donations from Li Ka-shing and others. The new deck was raised by several meters, while the old structure below could still be faintly seen. The old deck was very close to the water surface, so we could only get a general view. The middle opening part is a pontoon bridge made of a string of small boats, which can be opened at specified times, a clever design. It is said that in the Song Dynasty it was entirely a pontoon bridge, gradually improved later. The famous bridge expert Mao Yisheng praised it as "the earliest bascule bridge in the world". The quality of the ancient bridge is unquestionable – unlike modern constructions. Once there, we had to walk on it. The ticket was quite expensive, maybe 50 yuan, but there were very few tourists. On the bridge, the river breeze blew gently, section after section of beautiful scenery. No wonder there is a local ballad: "Chaozhou Xiang Bridge is so romantic, eighteen shuttle boats and twenty-four islets, twenty-four pavilions in twenty-four styles, two oxen and one slip away." We made a round trip, got tired halfway, found a pavilion to nap for a while – so comfortable!

Leaving Guangji Bridge, we returned to the old city on the opposite side. Winding streets, somewhat reminiscent of Beihai Old City. Walking on Memorial Arch Street, rows of arches stretched endlessly. Many surrounding shops were closed, apparently business was not good. Dried Buddha's hand (fingered citron) was everywhere here; we had no idea what it was. We popped into a small shop, and the老板娘 explained in detail: in short, it cures illness if you're sick and strengthens the body if you're not. The Buddha's hand had been soaked in Chinese herbs for 8 years, and the price was reasonable, so we bought some. We kept walking under the arches. Although the surrounding buildings and arches were all newly built, it seemed that each arch had a list of donors for its construction. It appeared that there were many overseas Chinese here with abundant financial resources, so the government didn't need to worry too much. After walking a short distance, we casually ate at roadside stalls, held a free map of the old city, and soon arrived at Jia Di Lane. It is said that this was the residential area of high officials and wealthy merchants in ancient Chaozhou, and it still retains the Ming and Qing street layout and many ancient dwellings. But the lane felt quite dilapidated. A small museum displayed local Chaozhou embroidery and woodcarving, which were very impressive, though not as delicate and exquisite as those from the Central Plains. In the later part of the trip, Chaozhou woodcarving would appear here and there, a symbol of wealthy Lingnan families.

The old city was commercial but not noisy, which was fine. Passing through Jia Di Lane, we wanted to eat again. We first returned to the hotel and inquired about local seafood. A tricycle took us directly to Yanji Pai Dang (food stall) in Yuechao Market. It was indeed a local dining spot. We selected seafood, the prices were reasonable, the food was authentic, and the tea turned out to be brewed from dried Buddha's hand – refreshing! One crab and one fish, we ate comfortably. Strolling around, we learned about a kind of tea here called Phoenix Dancong, only available here. We casually hailed a tricycle that wound back to the Han River, found a teahouse, and brewed a pot. The taste was quite good, closer to Fujian tea. Thinking about it, Chaozhou is actually part of Fujian culturally, very different from the Cantonese culture in Guangzhou. More Hakka people, and the language is also different. China is huge. After tea, we still walked along the Han River, entering the old city on foot. We were startled. At night, Memorial Arch Street and Kaiyuan Road were packed with people, endless street stalls, so lively. We hailed a tricycle that honked all the way back to the hotel. We only stayed one day in Chaozhou, but we saw everything we wanted. Nice Chaozhou.

Danxia Mountain

The weather in the morning was good. The airport bus from Chaozhou Hotel had specific departure times. We arrived at the airport early. There were few people. China Southern Airlines flights in Guangdong were okay. They served mooncakes on the plane – today was the Mid-Autumn Festival. We flew to Guangzhou at noon. This was a transit stop; our goal was to reach Shaoguan – Danxia Mountain that day. The morning news was frightening: massive traffic jams on expressways due to free tolls, and the 12306 train booking system showed zero tickets left for National Day plus Mid-Autumn. We felt anxious. When we exited the airport and asked about taxis, even the hope of chartering a car was dashed – the Beijing-Zhuhai Expressway was heavily congested. Depressed, we went to the South Railway Station to inquire. Guangzhou's urban planning was confusing. The Wuhan-Guangzhou High-Speed Railway runs mostly north, but the station is in Panyu, south of Guangzhou. Shaoguan is only 200 km from Baiyun Airport, but we had to go several tens of kilometers south to the high-speed rail station. The ticket hall repeatedly scrolled the message "No tickets available for Wuhan-Guangzhou High-Speed Railway". We queued with faint hope, but still no tickets at the window. Watching the guy in front buy two remaining tickets to Changsha, we were so envious! We had no choice but to buy sleeper tickets for the next day from Guangzhou East. We didn't want to come back to this remote high-speed rail station. We adjusted the itinerary, booked a hotel. The station broadcast still said no tickets for Wuguang. The queue at the window was thinning. Just as we were about to leave, I had a sudden idea: line up again, try for cancellations. Ahead of me, a group of buyers left with sad faces. I weakly asked the ticket girl, "Are there any tickets for Shaoguan today?" "No." "Any cancellations?" "Hehe! Let's see your luck." It felt like buying lottery tickets. She stared at the screen, swiping. Swipe! Swipe! Swipe! "Two business-class seats at 19:00, want them?" Damn! It must be fate. Of course, we wanted them. Looking back at the guy behind who was stamping his feet in regret, he probably would try again. We immediately readjusted the plan: refunded the next day's tickets, changed the hotel – everything went smoothly. The tragic South Station, located in remote Panyu, the service desk girl couldn't even name a place to eat nearby. In Guangzhou but no gourmet food – ironic! The station wasn't that crowded. We ate pork rib rice in the waiting hall, used the lounge's Wi-Fi – it was thrilling.

We boarded on time. The carriage wasn't as crowded as during Spring Festival. The reason for few tickets on Wuguang was that their trains are shorter, not 16-carriages like Beijing-Shanghai. Anyway, we were on board. 50 minutes to Shaoguan. Business class included mooncakes from Guangzhou Restaurant – reminded us again that it was Mid-Autumn. Shaoguan Station was confusing: we always thought Shaoguan Station should be the old city station, and those with East, South, West suffixes were far from the city. We were wrong. Shaoguan, an important city on the Beijing-Guangzhou line, has its city station called Shaoguan East. We arrived at Shaoguan Station, which is over ten kilometers away. The bus to Danxia Mountain departs from Shaoguan East. Another tragedy – we probably missed the last bus. Exiting the high-speed rail station, we took a taxi for 50 yuan to Shaoguan East. The brightly lit square was full of people. The last bus to Danxia Mountain was already severely overloaded. Fortunately, we were already in Shaoguan. The driver picked up two locals, charged us 150 yuan to take us directly to Danxia Mountain – reasonable. Along the North River we headed straight to Danxia Mountain in Renhua County. The two locals complained about their experience: starting from Guangzhou at 10 AM and only arriving in Shaoguan now. The traffic jam on the Beijing-Zhuhai Expressway made us feel a bit lucky. No traffic jams, no crowds. We arrived smoothly at the hot spring hotel in Danxia Mountain. We settled in, then went outside the scenic area to buy tickets and eat, preparing for the next day's climb. Tickets had a discount. Few people at the restaurant, prices reasonable – no inflation. Except for the hotel, whose usual 100+ yuan price had jumped to over 400 yuan, you could hardly feel the Golden Week here. We wondered where all the people from Shaoguan East square had gone.

We looked at the Mid-Autumn moon and slept soundly. Breakfast at the gate of the scenic area was comfortable. Not many people at the gate. We entered directly. Danxia Mountain is a UNESCO Global Geopark and World Natural Heritage. Legend says that the human ancestor Nüwa fetched water here to create humans, then collected five-colored stones from the Jinjiang River to mend the sky, and finally lay down by the river, turning into stone. Emperor Shun visited Danxia during his southern tour, climbed the mountain, played music, and named thirty-six stones. Since then, countless scholars and monks came, and the incense thrived. From the Sui and Tang dynasties, it became a famous scenic mountain and Buddhist holy land in Lingnan, leaving many poems, travel notes, inscriptions, and cliff carvings. Dozens of natural caves across the mountain were turned into Buddhist dojos. The well-preserved and renovated Jinshiya Grotto Temple and Biechuan Temple attract many pilgrims and tourists. The scenic area bus was free – we just got on. Leisurely, we passed through the Yangyuan Stone Scenic Area and reached the cable car station. It was still early, and after about ten minutes of queuing, we took the cable car up to Baozhu Peak. The cable car here is relatively small; it wouldn't handle the crowds of Mount Emei during Spring Festival. Fortunately, the mountain is only a few hundred meters high. From the top we looked out at various spots. We walked across the thrilling Duo Stone, gazed at the beautiful landscape – like a bonsai. The Elders' Peak was also in sight, but the trek was tough. We decisively chose a leisure fitness route: bypassing Shaoyin Pavilion, passing Pianlin Rock, seeing an anonymous ancient tomb, and climbing small hillocks. Winding through the scenery, we returned to the cable car station and went down. The crowd at the bottom had grown; the queue for the cable car was probably long. The scenic area bus conveniently took us to the gate below the Elders' Peak. We wanted to see another key spot: Yinyuan Stone (Female Genital Stone). Xianglong Lake offers boat rides to Yinyuan Stone – a good choice. The boat slowly sailed on the lake; the scenery was not inferior to Mount Wuyi. Disembarking, we walked with the Elders' Peak above. Visitors who come here might skip the Elders' Peak but never miss Yinyuan Stone. Nature's craftsmanship – we paid our respects! Indescribable – see pictures!

We returned to Xianglong Lake the same way, looking up at the Elders' Peak. It was beautiful. Not tired, the scenic area was small, we had fun. Still on the scenic area bus back to the Yangyuan Stone entrance. The parking lot was filling up with cars, mostly families from nearby areas. The stone bridge leading to the scenic area had a steady flow of people. The clear water under the bridge and the reflections of trees were beautiful. The water-borne Danxia on the Jinjiang was also a sight. Danxia Mountain is called a "sex museum"; the Yangyuan Stone here is a masterpiece. Primitive human worship of reproduction is sacred. This stone is incredibly lifelike, said to have existed for 300,000 years. The best photo spot under the stone had people of all ages happily taking pictures. Many were even offering incense on the viewing platform – the joy of human nature! See pictures again!

After visiting the main sights, we returned along the way. The farmhouse food was mediocre but reasonably priced. The buses at the scenic area entrance were quite empty, many departures. We boarded smoothly, safely back to Shaoguan East. Since we had previously booked sleeper train tickets on 12306, but arrived at the station over two hours early, the refund and change queue was long. We had to buy new tickets to return to Guangzhou earlier. Reluctant to give up the original tickets, we successfully convinced the guy in front of us and got a refund, allowing us to catch the train. Thanks to the working masses in the ticket office. Shaoguan East Station was what we imagined a station should be: freight and passenger trains parked on various platforms, dirty platforms, slow. People waiting on the platform early were carrying large bags and bundles, not the tense atmosphere of high-speed rail. The train came from Xi'an, destination Haikou. Sleeper berths were empty, hard seats even emptier. We couldn't understand why everyone was rushing to the high-speed rail. This slow train back to Guangzhou took only a bit over an hour more, comfortable and cheap. Danxia Mountain in Shaoguan – no regrets, worth a visit. There was no Golden Week uproar, very comfortable. All the crowding was on the road. Also a thanks to the Ministry of Railways for making it thrilling but safe!

Guangzhou

Comfortable sleeper to Guangzhou. Guangzhou Station is in the city center. A small hiccup with the hotel didn't stop us from staying at Shangxiajiu. Guangzhou, we're back. The next day was another good day. Our first stop was Guangzhou Restaurant. We sat down, ordered tea, ate dim sum, drank tea – comfortable. Across from us, a local elderly man with his son was having tea and reading the newspaper. We chatted casually. Looking at the menu, we decided to come back for dinner. Guangzhou's subway was convenient. We took it directly to Yuzhu, then a ferry to the Whampoa Military Academy (site). Free scenic spot, not too many people. In July this year we visited Yunnan Military Academy; today we came to see the more famous Whampoa. The ferry at Yuzhu Pier was similar to old Shanghai ferries – a small iron boat to Changzhou Island. The academy itself wasn't too exciting; we learned a bit about KMT-CPC history, saw countless famous people – at least we've been there. Ferry and subway back to the city center. We went to Yuexiu Park to see the Five Rams statue. Let's say, under the dim night, the Five Rams were quite charming. I was born in the Year of the Ram, so I took a photo – six sheep. Old sculptures are far better than today's so-called abstract ones... Across from the park was the Nanyue King's Tomb. We had been here last year. Crossing the road, there were many famous restaurants near Liuhua Park. It must have been the main venue for the Canton Fair back then, quite glorious. Feeling hungry looking at the restaurants, we directly took a taxi to Guangzhou Restaurant. The restaurant was bustling. There was a wealthy man's wedding with 40 tables – roast suckling pig, lobster – mouth-watering. We queued a bit and sat down. Again, first order tea. It was late; the wealthy man ate a lot, and several dishes we wanted were sold out. We settled for alternatives, which didn't disappoint. The sea bass with ham was satisfying, making us even more eager for their signature Wen Chang chicken – we'll have to come back tomorrow. Leaving the restaurant, we saw the neighboring Wong Wang Hong (a famous sausage shop). Buying a few sausages and cured meats was just comfortable.

This trip had good weather all along. Waking up, we still wanted to eat. Taotaoju was packed. The opposite Lianxiang Lou was also a good choice. Morning tea was comfortable. The durian pastry was so fragrant we couldn't walk. "Eating in Guangzhou" truly lives up to its reputation. Taxis in the city were cheap and convenient. Chen Clan Ancestral Hall (Chen Clan Academy) was our first stop. Not too many people on National Day. We spent 15 minutes queuing for tickets. We wanted a guide, but a university student volunteer from Guangzhou University offered free full-service explanation – touched. Chen Clan Ancestral Hall, also known as Chen Clan Academy, was first built in the 14th year of Guangxu (1888) and completed in the 20th year (1894). It was jointly built by 72 counties' Chen families in Guangdong at the end of the Qing Dynasty. It is a famous clan temple in Guangdong. The architectural structure can be divided into three axes and three courtyards, with a total construction area of 8,000 square meters. This is a typical example of a wealthy Lingnan family. The decoration uses wood carving, stone carving, brick carving, clay sculpture, pottery sculpture, iron casting and other techniques, covering the eaves, halls, courtyards and corridors inside and outside the hall. There are both large-scale works and small delicate pieces, with styles ranging from bold and unrestrained to fine and exquisite, each with its own characteristics. However, I felt these gorgeous sculptures were a bit messy, lacking the harmonious beauty of ancient architecture in the Central Plains. After renovation in 1958, Chen Clan Ancestral Hall became the Guangdong Folk Art Museum. Looking at fans, Chaozhou embroidery, etc., was relaxing. The building was large, not too many people. We took photos, learned some knowledge. Located in a busy area with convenient transportation. Leaving the ancestral hall, we took the subway to the provincial bus station. We bought tickets for the next day's bus to Kaiping – very easy, totally different from the Wuguang high-speed rail experience. We got seats 1 and 2 – seemed like the bus would be empty. Then we headed to Guangdong Provincial Museum. Exiting at Zhujiang New Town subway station, it was like Shanghai's Lujiazui – skyscrapers everywhere, Canton Tower, International Finance Center, the Asian Games opening ceremony venue – modern and bustling. In the distance, we saw the new Guangdong Provincial Museum. The line for free tickets was long, so we bought 30-yuan special exhibition tickets and entered directly. To be honest, the Guangdong Provincial Museum claims to be the largest in Guangdong, but the building quality was mediocre, and the collection was even more average. Natural history and history were mixed together, a bit chaotic. The Nanyue King's Tomb is much smaller but its content and quality easily surpass the provincial museum. Among the exhibits, the Duan inkstones were a highlight – although modern art pieces, they made us want to get a big Duan inkstone slab for a shower floor! We skimmed through the rest, looking at magnificent Chaozhou woodcarving, colorful Guangdong ceramics, the mysterious Nanhai One shipwreck – mainly to understand authentic Cantonese culture. Some models in the museum caught our interest: Guangxiao Temple and Stone Church Sacred Heart seemed nice. Since it was still early, we skipped the special exhibition on the deep sea and decided to visit the Buddhist holy site Guangxiao Temple. Exiting the museum, we experienced the APM urban transit, then subway plus walking to Guangxiao Temple. Even though it was National Day, the temple remained quiet. The grand and orthodox mountain gate was very comfortable to see. This was originally the residence of Zhao Jiande, a king of Nanyue. Guangzhou is also called the City of Rams, hence the saying, "Before there was the City of Rams, there was Guangxiao." During the Zhenguan period of Emperor Taizong of Tang, the temple expanded continuously and became an important Buddhist activity center in Lingnan. In the first year of Yifeng of Emperor Gaozong of Tang, the Chan master Huineng discussed the relationship of wind and banner in the temple, and later the Wind-Banner Hall and the Hair-Burial Pagoda were built. In the Five Dynasties, two iron pagodas, east and west, were built, each with seven stories. The east pagoda was cast with lotus pedestals, the west pagoda was cast with a thousand Buddhas, about two zhang high, finely carved and lifelike. However, the west iron pagoda collapsed, leaving only the base. In the history of Chinese Buddhism, Guangxiao Temple holds a very important position. The Indian monk Gunavarman, honored by the Northern School as the patriarch, called Guangxiao Temple "Kelín"; the Chan patriarch Bodhidharma once stayed here; the Sixth Patriarch Huineng also lived incognito in Guangxiao Temple for many years. The present-day Bizhuo Xuan (Ink Brush Studio) and Xiyan Chi (Inkstone Washing Pool) are relics from that time. This shows the long-standing cultural exchanges between China and India. We found the Hair-Burial Pagoda and the West Iron Pagoda. The East Iron Pagoda was inside a building and not open to the public – missing the oldest iron pagoda in China was a slight regret. Leaving Guangxiao Temple, it was still early. We were craving Wen Chang chicken again, so we took a taxi directly to Guangzhou Restaurant. A city, two days, three meals at the same restaurant – probably only a place like Guangzhou Restaurant can do that. Guangzhou Restaurant was founded in 1939 and has the reputation of "First Restaurant for Eating in Guangzhou." At the entrance, a security guard was watching videos on his phone. The afternoon tea session had ended, and we had to wait more than half an hour. We were so devoted! Finally, the guard waved his hand, and we went in. Still the second floor, still first order tea. The calm waiter said there was no rush to order, but we were afraid the Wen Chang chicken would be sold out again. Fortunately, under calmness and devotion, the Wen Chang chicken arrived. Indescribable – we loved it so much. Eating and drinking, comfortable Guangzhou.

Kaiping

Waking up early, there was still an unfulfilled wish: Taotaoju's morning tea. It was a short walk away. Because it was early, we didn't queue. We ate what we wanted. It felt not necessarily much better than Lianxiang Lou across the street – each has its own characteristics. Next time we'll try Guangzhou Restaurant's morning tea. The provincial station's long-distance bus had few passengers, still departed without being full. The driver was professional – no shouting for extra money to take the expressway, no random pick-ups. We left Guangzhou. Two hours later, we arrived in Kaiping. "Let the bullets fly!" I had long wanted to see the diaolou (watchtowers), not because of "Let the Bullets Fly", not because of rapeseed flowers, but because they are World Heritage. Preliminary online research showed that Kaiping diaolou are scattered and we needed to charter a car. Anyway, we first stored our luggage. The station staff kindly stopped a departing minibus and put us on it directly to Li Garden. The road was smooth. Amid the fields, diaolou stood here and there. We got off at an intersection, followed signposts, walked 15 minutes to Li Garden. We booked tickets online via phone and got a discount. Tour guides were in high demand, but we managed to catch one who had just finished at the garden gate. Li Garden belongs to a local rich man's villa, not part of the World Heritage, but still worth a visit. The garden mainly features Western-style buildings, with only two diaolou, quite beautiful. We especially liked the interior floor tiles and glass partitions – anything related to decoration. Li Garden in Kaiping was built by Mr. Xie Weili, an overseas Chinese from America in Tangkou Town, during the 1920s. It took ten years to complete the initial construction. Before liberation, Li Garden suffered many misfortunes. After being trampled by the Japanese, who bent the 30mm-thick iron window bars with violence and looted, it gradually fell into disuse. On October 10, 1999, the garden owner's wife, Ms. Xie Yuyaoqiong, signed a contract with the Kaiping Municipal People's Government in the US, entrusting the garden to the government for management for 50 years, to open it for tourism and develop Kaiping's tourism. Li Garden is very large, with villa area, big flower garden, small flower garden, the owner's bird-and-flower room, the Tiger Mountain across the canal, the Tiger-slaying Whip at the gate, and the residences of several wives – all unique and worth seeing.

Leaving Li Garden, we returned to the intersection. The same minibus came by and we went to Zili Village. This is a cluster of diaolou, part of the World Heritage, and the place where the movie character Huang Silang filmed. We got off at the intersection, walked 20 minutes, accompanied by red banners all the way into the scenic area. The rise of Kaiping diaolou is closely related to Kaiping's geographical environment and past social order. Kaiping has low-lying terrain, dense river networks, and in the past, water conservancy was neglected. Typhoons and heavy rains often caused floods. Moreover, it lies at the remote junction of Xinhui, Taishan, Enping, and Xinxing counties, known as a "four-no-rule" area, with chaotic social order. Therefore, as early as the early Qing Dynasty, villagers built diaolou for flood and bandit prevention. After the Opium War, the Qing government's rule declined further. Forced by livelihood, Kaiping people began to go abroad in large numbers to make a living. Thus there are many overseas Chinese here. It is said that there are 680,000 locals and 750,000 overseas Chinese. According to the guide, banditry was especially rampant during the Republic of China. Meanwhile, overseas Chinese lived relatively well, so bandits concentrated on Kaiping. They committed countless atrocities. They even attacked the then county seat Cangcheng three times and kidnapped the county magistrate Zhu Jianzhang. So the scenes in the movie are not baseless – one can imagine the necessity of diaolou at that time. The architectural styles and decorative arts of Kaiping diaolou are diverse and breathtaking. There are both traditional Chinese and European styles from different periods. We looked at the exteriors, climbed diaolou, learned the difference between lou and lu (types of buildings). The surrounding rice fields were also picturesque – no wonder so many people say to come in March to see rapeseed flowers, making the diaolou secondary. Tired from walking, we sat down to eat eel rice. There were really few people, still mostly family self-drive tourists. Farmhouse food was reasonably priced, not as ruthless as popular scenic spots. The diaolou are not as majestic as Fujian tulou, but more exquisite and stylish. After comfortably visiting Zili Village, we returned to the intersection to wait for the bus. Checking the time, we decided to go directly back to the station. We got on a minibus, but the driver fell short: he took us to the north city's Yici Station. Although all buses stop there, we needed the south city's Changsha Station because our luggage was there. Fortunately, the city is small. After complaints and noise, we got our luggage and changed our bus tickets to an earlier departure. Indeed, the long-distance bus returned to Yici Station. The fleet manager also followed up on our complaint, assuring that if there were any problems, he would arrange for us to go to Zhuhai – we considered it satisfactory. There were very few passengers on the bus, no tourists. We were heading to Zhuhai. The driver, fearing traffic jams, took us on a national road for a while to bypass congestion before entering the expressway – we all agreed. Smoothly, we arrived in Zhuhai under twilight. Using navigation and walking, we found the hotel. The hotel was nice, a bit expensive. Another fresh city: night markets, seafood, no crowds. Tomorrow we go to Macau.

Macau

This trip allocated one day to Macau. Early morning, the Gongbei border crossing was packed with people – reminiscent of the World Expo. Touts with Guangdong-Macau dual-plate vehicles offered to fast-track us for 100 yuan, but we didn't try it; we just queued obediently. Surprisingly, it was fast. We cleared Macau customs in less than 40 minutes. A local guy said today's crowd was light, just usual. Lucky! After passing Macau's Barrier Gate, we were in Macau. The "one country, two systems" region still had some unfamiliar aspects. The square was full of free shuttle buses from various casinos. We took one directly to Grand Lisboa, where we could enjoy free luggage storage, and it was close to Macau's old city. Everything went smoothly. We stored our luggage, visited the splendid Grand Lisboa, got a local map from the reception, withdrew local currency from the Bank of China across the street, and took photos. At the entrance of Wynn, we hailed a taxi to A-Ma Temple. Our purpose in Macau was to see the old city. The "Historic Centre of Macau" is a historic district centered on Macau's old city, connected by adjacent squares and streets, including 8 squares: A-Ma Temple Square, Lilau Square, St. Augustine's Square, Senado Square, Cathedral Square, St. Dominic's Square, Company of Jesus Square, Camões Square; and 22 historical buildings such as A-Ma Temple, Moorish Barracks, Mandarin's House, St. Lawrence's Church, St. Joseph's Seminary and Church, Dom Pedro V Theatre, Sir Robert Ho Tung Library, St. Augustine's Church, Leal Senado Building, Sam Kai Vui Kun (Kuan Tai Temple), Holy House of Mercy, Cathedral (Se), Casa do Lou Kau, St. Dominic's Church, Ruins of St. Paul, Na Tcha Temple, Section of the Old City Wall, Monte Fort, St. Anthony's Church, Casa Garden, Protestant Cemetery, Guia Fortress (including Guia Lighthouse and Chapel of Our Lady of Guia). Among these are China's first Western-style university (St. Paul's College), first Western-style theatre, first modern lighthouse on the China coast, as well as Lingnan-style temples and courtyards of late Qing wealthy merchants. Too many introductions are available on Baidu or Google; I won't go into detail here. Starting with A-Ma Temple, our tour of Macau's World Heritage series. Although the old city is a World Heritage site, there are no tickets; it still serves modern society. No deep gardens or high walls – only closeness. Signposts everywhere, free maps everywhere, allowing you to wander freely through the complex old city lanes. Occasionally we saw small shrines for the Earth God in corners – it seems the whole world believes in bodhisattvas! Those beautiful, bright Western-style buildings might be part of the World Heritage. We walked, stopped, looked. Churches with European names – Macau has many churches. The theater was quite charming. The vehicles driving on the old city roads had a tough time – up and down, steep slopes, sharp turns. Fortunately, people obeyed the rules, and there were few bicycles (probably because it's too hard to pedal). Walking from A-Ma Temple Slanted Street towards Senado Square, the crowds grew thicker, shops from quiet to packed. Of course, 99% were mainland visitors – impressive! Near the Ruins of St. Paul, the crowd was surging. It was said to be much less than previous days, still acceptable. We took photos, bought snacks from Koi Kei Bakery, climbed the Monte Fort, and stumbled upon the Macau Museum. Its content wasn't extensive, but gave a systematic overview of Macau. Time was plentiful. Except for the distant lighthouse, we walked through the entire old city. Finally, we sat at Yee Shun Milk Company, eating double-skin milk and pork chop bun – comfortingly completing our old city tour. Overall, Macau's preservation of the old city is indeed different from the mainland: more use by the public, better service to the public. Grand Lisboa was right in front. We wandered into the casino, tried our luck at a slot machine – just for fun. We also asked the desk attendant for a token to the Macau-Hong Kong Ferry Terminal. Luck was mediocre, and we weren't in the mood for gambling. Soon the shuttle took us to the terminal. Macau's main hub doesn't need public transport – casino shuttles are enough. The Macau-Hong Kong Ferry Terminal is next to the racecourse starting area; there used to be F1 here. Tickets were easy, not many people. One hour later, we arrived at Hong Kong's Sheung Wan Ferry Terminal. Customs clearance was very fast, comfortable. The night view of Victoria Harbour was a bit dim due to the accident on Lamma Island. After walking all day, we ate casually at a cha chaan teng and rested early.

Hong Kong

LP (my partner) and I: This was my first time in Hong Kong; LP was the tour guide. The movies of my childhood gave me an impression of Hong Kong, remembering many place names. A short history and colonial background made it a prosperous international metropolis, an important financial, service, and shipping center. Of course, LP likes it as a "shopping paradise". We stayed in Sheung Wan – first, close to the ferry, second, convenient. The next day was another good day. The last two days were for Hong Kong. I wanted to go to the Peak in the morning. Hong Kong Island's subway keeps pace with the times – they don't advocate "stand on the right, walk on the left"; instead they ask everyone to "stand firm", safety first. We took the subway directly to Central, walked to see the Bank of China Tower, Cheung Kong Center, the Legislative Council Building across the street, WWII memorial, some private roads leading up the hill with a mysterious air. Walking to Government House, we looked to see if the sharp corner of the BOC Tower really points at it. Appreciating the historical accumulation, we arrived at the Peak Tram station. The tram looks like a train, but it's actually pulled up the hill by steel cables – hence the name "cable car". The Peak Tram is Hong Kong's earliest motorized public transport, running between Garden Road in Central and Victoria Peak. Like Hong Kong's trams (ding ding), it's full of history. You don't feel it's outdated; on the contrary, you like it. Hong Kong preserves history well – Shanghai really lags in this respect. The Peak was leisurely, no Golden Week noise. LP knew the way, took me to take photos overlooking Victoria Harbour – cliché but we did it. We walked around the Peak: Madame Tussauds, cafés, fast food – everything. I had a McFlurry, looked out over Lamma Island. Some Hong Kong volunteers were accompanying patients in activities – very real. Luxurious mansions hidden in the hillside trees seemed mysterious. We took a double-decker bus down the narrow mountain road – the driver needed excellent skills. Some bends required reversing. Twisting down to Wan Chai, we walked a short distance to the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. On the square, taking a photo with the Golden Bauhinia (five yuan a pop), looking across the harbor. A few locals were fishing there, and indeed caught big fish. The Octopus card is very convenient – can be used for subway and even McDonald's. We took the subway back to Sheung Wan, casual cha chaan teng had decent food. On the street, someone set up a shrine with a Buddha statue and an altar – a place to worship. Walking through the ginseng street and seafood street, feeling the bustle of the old city, reminiscent of scenes in old movies. The famous Hollywood Road antique street was nearby. In the old days, Ma Chengyuan would visit here every time he came to Hong Kong. The legendary Jin Hou Su bells, which were forbidden from leaving the country, were discovered and purchased by him here. Shops of all sizes lined both sides, stuffed with items – countless Buddha heads and pagodas, authenticity unknown. LP doubted if they were real – maybe in the past, but probably not now. These shops felt somewhat distant. Street stalls felt more genuine. We strolled around, looked at the outdoor escalator going up the hill, walked around the bar street – all foreigners, lively bars. Following the street, we saw the former prison, gas lamps, etc. – we didn't miss any. We passed a restaurant where LP had dined three years ago. The streets here are worth exploring. Walking to the public pier, we saw the historic Star Ferry, waited for a boat to Lamma Island, enjoying the sea breeze – comfortable! LP arranged to eat at Rainbow on Lamma Island. The free ferry was excellent value. Blowing the sea breeze, watching Tsim Sha Tsui, Central, Repulse Bay, glimpsing Ocean Park – one hour directly to Lamma Island. The ship collision had brought some sorrow to Lamma Island, but it didn't affect us much. Eating was LP's favorite – we feasted until we couldn't walk. Huge razor clams, tiny lobsters, special mantis shrimp – all delicious. The owner was honest, saying the seafood came from Hainan, not local Hong Kong, but well-prepared. At the next table, there was another volunteer activity – Hong Kong's volunteer organizations are indeed impressive. After dinner, we took the ferry in the twilight to Tsim Sha Tsui. We strolled along the Avenue of Stars, visited the huge Harbor City mall – a bit crowded. The Symphony of Lights show was still suspended, but no regret. We bought a few boxes of chocolates and went back to rest.

The last day of the trip – time flies. Early morning, we packed luggage and took the subway directly to Luk Yu Tea House in Central. Nostalgic atmosphere. Honestly, the food was not as good as in Guangzhou, and more expensive. Why weren't we allowed to sit on the ground floor? Did Tung Chee-hwa always have tea on the first floor? LP, who had been there a few times, always sat on the second floor. After eating, we took the ding ding tram to Causeway Bay. The slow tram was very comfortable. Times Square, Sogo – these malls felt more intimate than Harbor City, prices more reasonable. I just looked around as a sightseeing spot. Today was Sunday, the day off for Filipino domestic workers. A large number of them gathered on the streets, shopping, playing games – orderly but noisy – another kind of scenery. We passed Eslite Bookstore but didn't go in; we preferred the small shop at Causeway Bay Books – buying books, reading, emigrating, all-in-one service, with a touch of humor. We casually bought a book to mark the trip. The Octopus card allows overdraft. We fully used the deposit. Subway to Lo Wu. Few people – cleared customs in almost one second. Our luggage became insignificant. The standard equipment there was woven bags, gunny sacks, big suitcases... We worried about food, books – but they were considered normal daily necessities. Indeed, residents from both sides cross the border to buy groceries and back. What were a few pieces of roasted meat to them? The moment we reached Shenzhen, it felt different from Hong Kong – more familiar. Airport bus showed Shenzhen's streets: clean and wide, a sign of reform. As I told LP earlier, without colonization, Hong Kong and Macau would just be small fishing towns under Zhuhai and Shenzhen today. History cannot be assumed. Because of the smooth customs clearance, we arrived at the airport very early. Almost time to go home. Tired but happy. The flight went smoothly. Together with the roasted meat in our bags, we arrived home... Nine days of travel. As LP said, choose the right place at the right time... Happy trip. The Ministry of Railways gave us a little thrill... World Heritage didn't disappoint... The circle drawn this time wasn't large, but the content was still wonderful. Looking forward to next time. Thanks, LP...