A Family Reunion Trip to Spain During the 2023 Christmas Season – The Ancient City of Segovia

After work on December 15, my husband and I flew from Shanghai to Madrid, while our daughter flew from Bristol, UK to Madrid. The three of us were finally reunited after being apart for three months. Why Spain? A country that led the world during the Age of Exploration must be full of treasures. A place ruled by different peoples in succession should have given rise to a more diverse culture. Cities with masters like Gaudí, Picasso, and Goya certainly wouldn't lack scenery! Besides, winter in Spain is relatively warm compared to other parts of Europe.

Having never experienced the ravages of WWII, Spain has preserved a large number of medieval monuments. Many cities have old quarters with narrow streets, and urban development revolves around these ancient buildings to boost tourism. The history of these cities is as dry and eventful as the local winter. Although Spain is not large in area or population, it has become one of the world's top tourist destinations. How to choose representative and unique travel destinations? Typical itineraries often include several classic cities in both Spain and Portugal, but we spent fifteen days on an in-depth tour of Spain. I highly recommend Córdoba and Granada.

On December 15, our daughter flew directly from Bristol to Madrid and stayed one night in the city center. We flew from Shanghai via Beijing and entered Spain from Madrid on the morning of the 16th.

On December 16, we met at Moncloa metro station in Madrid, took a bus to Segovia, stayed overnight, and booked a famous restaurant in advance for roast suckling pig.

On December 17, we took a bus back to Madrid in the afternoon, visited the Retiro Park, and had our first paella in an old street.

On December 18, we took a bus from Plaza Elíptica station in Madrid for a day trip to Toledo. After returning to Madrid, we visited the Prado Museum and had seafood and lamb for dinner in a restaurant in an old street.

On December 19, we went shopping at the outlets, returned to Madrid, and had Hunan cuisine at Xiang Yu restaurant in the evening.

On December 20, we visited the Royal Palace of Madrid, a market, a temple, and had Italian dinner.

On December 21, we took a train to Córdoba, visited the Roman Bridge, bought groceries and cooked ourselves, and watched Spanish ham slicing.

On December 22, we visited the Great Mosque, Calleja de las Flores, Plaza del Potro, bought groceries and cooked ourselves.

On December 23, we took a train to Granada. We had a difficult communication with the landlord. In the afternoon, we visited the Granada Cathedral (with a Chinese audio guide), the Albaicín neighborhood, and Mirador San Nicolás. We bought groceries at Carrefour and cooked ourselves.

On December 24, we walked to the Alhambra, shopped at Carrefour, bought Spanish ham at an old shop, and celebrated Christmas.

On December 25, we took a coach from Granada to Seville, then a taxi to our accommodation. We visited the Metropol Parasol, the Museo del Baile Flamenco, and cooked dinner with ingredients we brought.

On December 26, we visited the Alcázar of Seville and the cathedral, went to Plaza de España in the evening, and had pizza in the basement.

On December 27, we strolled through Seville's old streets and department stores, spent time in a café, and flew on a low-cost airline to Barcelona. We had Thai food in the evening.

On December 28, we visited the Sagrada Família, Casa Milà, and Casa Batlló, and had Japanese food for dinner.

On December 29, we unsuccessfully tried to visit Park Güell, went to the seaside, Columbus Monument, Gothic Quarter, went shopping, and had our first outdoor meal.

On December 30, we took a taxi to the airport and got a tax refund.

December 16:

We carefully chose this Air China flight because it was the only one arriving in Spain in the morning; other flights mostly arrived in the afternoon or evening, wasting a day. We landed early at Madrid Barajas Airport. Maybe because it was early morning, customs clearance was fast. We took Line 8 from T1 to Nuevos Ministerios, then transferred to Line 6 to Moncloa. While waiting for the metro, I nervously watched for pickpockets. My husband said pickpockets don't wake up that early; if they could get up early, they wouldn't be pickpockets. At Moncloa, we followed signs to buy bus tickets directly to Segovia.

Bus company: Avanza autobús. Tickets can be bought on the spot, €4.60 per person. Buses run about every half hour (direct). While waiting for our daughter, we had breakfast at a small shop nearby. The hot chocolate was so thick it could have been diluted with two more cups of water. Stepping out of Moncloa for some fresh air, we saw a sky full of morning glow; no filter needed, nature's palette is unmatched. The air was crisp.

About 1.5 hours later, we arrived at the Segovia coach station. There were pay toilets inside. Although the distance from the station to the hotel was short, it was quite a workout pulling our suitcases along the uneven cobblestone streets, which were constantly uphill.

When doing research, I learned of another way to get to Segovia: take the Renfe train from T4 (B1) to Madrid-Chamartín station, then a train to Segovia. The Segovia train station is 1.5 km from the city center; from there, take bus No. 11 (which ends at the aqueduct; schedule matches trains, about 20 min, €2, cash only). Most attractions in Segovia are walkable. You can also take a taxi for €8 per car (regular four-seat taxi, regardless of number of passengers). Comparatively, the bus is more economical and convenient.

As one of the oldest cities in Spain, Segovia has witnessed much of the Iberian Peninsula's history. From the Romans who founded it, to the Celts who occupied it for three centuries, to the Arab rule before King Alfonso VI of Castile regained control, the city has seen it all. For the next 500 years, several Castilian kings made it their capital. Most of the buildings in the old town date from this period. Later, during the Renaissance, the Moors introduced textile and garment industries, bringing another period of prosperity to Segovia.

The heart of Segovia is the magnificent Plaza Mayor, surrounded by the city's most important buildings. Our hotel, Infanta Isabel by Recordis Hotels, was right there, opposite the Segovia Cathedral, which stands at the highest point of the old town. The hotel was surrounded by shops with attractive window displays. We were drawn to a Spanish ham sandwich with generous filling: crispy bread packed with plenty of ham, delicious, €5.50 each.

The Alcázar of Segovia is located at the western end of the city, perched on a cliff with three sides sheer, connected to the city only by a drawbridge. The blue sky and sunshine were always captivating. We strolled, ate, and explored, starting our vacation mode.

The Alcázar ticket has no discount for foreign students; it costs €7. From the 12th century, Catholic monarchs gradually turned it into a fortress-palace until the 16th century, when it took its current form: ornate towers to distinguish it from other castles, Mudejar-style interiors. The fairy-tale castle is very photogenic.

One of the largest ancient Roman remains in Spain is located in Segovia. The great aqueduct, built during the Roman era, gives a glimpse of a city that has traversed millennia, a portrait of inherited civilization. Even as a remnant, this magnificent aqueduct is the most impressive and best-preserved Roman monument on the Iberian Peninsula. The top of the aqueduct is a water channel. It is 728 meters long, supported by 166 arches, and built with nearly 20,000 stones, all without any cement or other binders.

As the sun set, this thousand-year-old city, which has risen and fallen with the changes of times and rulers, quietly watched the dusk and the castle's massive stones. Known as one of Spain's most spectacular World Heritage cities, it exuded a serene beauty.

Night fell, and the mountain mist was heavy. The Segovia Cathedral was outlined by lights, looking ethereal. Roast suckling pig is a must-try dish in Segovia. We booked online in advance at José María restaurant, named after the owner himself. Unlike Cándido, which caters to tourists, this restaurant is frequented mostly by locals. Their roast suckling pig was delicious: crispy skin and tender meat, unforgettable. But they didn't have the plate-smashing performance for tourists. The menu was in English; ordering the suckling pig (Spanish: cochinillo, English: milk-fed suckling pig) was fine. It felt great to have a reunion dinner after so long!

December 17:

Our room had a small balcony facing an old street. Although the balconies here are narrow, they offer a different angle and height to enjoy the scenery. The sky was clear outside the window, lifting our spirits.

In the morning, we wandered through the old town. Following the winding cobblestone streets, we stopped at Plaza de San Martín, built in the 12th century. The buildings in the old town seemed frozen in time, quietly waiting for the new day.

We recommend staying one night in Segovia. I saw many day trips from Madrid online. Today, we were returning to Madrid. On our way to the bus station, we noticed many police; there seemed to be a major event. When we were at a loss, an elderly gentleman speaking fluent English offered to show us how to detour through an intersection to reach the Segovia bus station. He was one of only two Spaniards we met on this trip with standard English pronunciation. The coach station had an Avanza bus ticket machine, which only accepted credit cards (needing a 4-digit PIN). So we bought tickets at the manual counter. If you can estimate your time, you can buy round-trip tickets in advance to avoid waiting at the station like we did.

We stayed at Hostal Palacio Luna in Madrid for four nights. After exiting the bus station, we transferred to the metro and got off at Gran Via station, just a 5-minute walk to the hotel. The hostel was in an apartment building; though it had a tiny elevator, it solved our heavy luggage problem. It was run by a Chinese brother and sister. The triple room was well laid out, but once we opened three large suitcases, there was no room to walk. The hostel was in the city center, with a supermarket and restaurants downstairs, very convenient.

Travel tip: The most cost-effective ticket for public transport in Madrid is the T10 ticket. As the name implies, it's a 10-trip pass valid for metro and buses, costing €12.20. One T10 ticket can be used by multiple people; just buy one for two. It can also be used from the airport to the city center, but with a €3 supplement. The T10 is only valid for Zone A, which covers almost all interesting areas.

Madrid's metro is extensive and reaches attractions directly, very convenient. Actually, the city center is relatively small; distances between main sights are short and walkable. So while in Madrid, it's more efficient to open Google Maps and walk to the next attraction rather than look for a metro station. Plus, you can enjoy Madrid's city architecture along the way, like a mini city walk, killing two birds with one stone.

Retiro Park was built in the 17th century, originally a royal garden, now free and open to the public. The park is lush and has a beautiful pond. The main avenue features various performers, each independent yet harmonious, making it a great place to relax and get close to nature. In front of the monument to King Alfonso XII is a large lake where ducks and their reflections create a picturesque scene. The famous Crystal Palace is located in Retiro Park.

After all, it was winter; it got dark early. Our daughter found a nice Spanish restaurant in the old town not far away. The winding small streets were full of restaurants and cafés. In Spain, restaurants open at 2pm for lunch and 8pm for dinner; we never got used to the meal times during our stay. Finally, we entered a restaurant and waited, watching the staff prepare calmly. When we finally ordered, the first thing the waiter said was, 'No no no, no English.' With awkward but polite laughter, we used photo translation to order, and luckily everything was very fresh! Ordering without a common language was a bit torturous; the only waiter who could speak some English became our savior.

It was a week before Christmas, and everywhere was decorated with Christmas elements. As we walked, we saw a long line outside a shop. Curious, we went closer and found everyone was queuing to buy lottery tickets. This peculiar sight was common throughout our two weeks in Spain; on weekends and holidays, all shops close except lottery shops, which have long lines.