88 Hours Exploring Madrid – Not Enough!
Since last year when we could once again recklessly burst out of Asia and head to the world, the Traveling Sisters have received a high proportion of fan inquiries all asking: Is Europe easy to visit now? Are visas easy to get? Are there many flights? And so on. Actually, since last year, the sisters on our team have already traveled to and from various European countries more than six times, and we've gradually figured out some tricks.
For example, the Spanish Schengen visa is quite easy to obtain. If you prepare complete and genuine documents according to your actual situation, using the Chinese guidance on the Spanish Visa Center website, submit an appointment, you can basically get the visa, and the validity period is quite generous. Cash (one of the sisters) has already visited Spain twice since last May (and is planning a third trip in May). And just this past March in early spring, I completed my first in-depth exploration of Madrid in ten years. The deep impression from my last Madrid trip became one of the motivations for me to write my first travel essay, "Traveling Sisters: All Over the World, Finding Myself." This time, revisiting the old place, I thought I would be more nostalgic, but unexpectedly I kept "discovering new things."
Madrid has a vibrant, bustling vitality that combines stillness and movement, ancient and modern. Even someone like me, who is not particularly sensitive, can't help becoming curious and more perceptive in Madrid. So what new landmarks in Madrid are worth exploring in depth now?
One of the crown jewels of Spanish art museums, almost every visitor to Madrid must visit.
In 1819, King Ferdinand VII of Spain announced the official opening of the Prado Museum, making it one of the first national museums in the world open to the public.
The Prado Museum houses a vast collection of world-class art treasures, including works by Goya, Velázquez, El Greco, and many others. Many masterpieces that are only revered in art textbooks can be seen up close in the Prado, with their brushstrokes and changes in light and shadow.
I highly recommend booking a museum guide to take you around. The stories behind the paintings may give you a deeper understanding of the era in which the artist lived and help you appreciate those masterpieces even more. Note: No photography or videography is allowed inside the Prado, so concentrate on immersing yourself in the ocean of art.
Since last June, Madrid’s museums have had a dazzling new member: the Royal Collections Gallery.
The building of the Royal Collections Gallery itself is a winner of 10 architectural awards! The gallery has eight floors, covering an area of 40,000 square meters, equivalent to the combined area of the Thyssen and Prado museums. Three floors of exhibition halls are open to the public, and the collections fully reflect the taste of the Spanish royal family, allowing every visitor to experience a journey through art history.
Upon entering the lobby of the Royal Collections Gallery, you can see the names of institutions and buildings under the Spanish Royal Heritage agency. They provide audio guides in 16 languages, including Cantonese (and of course Mandarin)!
Recently, the Royal Collections Gallery has a one-year special exhibition on royal carriages. The Prado Museum has also lent some paintings showing scenes of carriage use at that time, presenting the style of Spanish royal carriages with both images and actual objects.
Curious visitors, don’t forget to check out the super elevator that can carry 120 people at once!
The home of the "Galácticos" Real Madrid is one of the must-visit attractions in Madrid, an undisputed holy site for fans of the most popular football club on Earth.
The last time I came to the Santiago Bernabéu was ten years ago. This second visit was to see its new look! Since 2020, the Bernabéu has undergone a massive renovation, transforming the stadium from a venue usable only for football into a multi-functional complex, breaking the previous limitation of only about 30 days of use per year!
The most stunning renovation feature is the professional football pitch that can be cut into 6 sections and lowered 60 meters into a temperature-controlled underground storage! With this setup, the Bernabéu can host football matches, other sports events, and even concerts. A 360-degree panoramic screen has been installed above the pitch, allowing all spectators to watch the game or show without blind spots. To facilitate the rapid transport of setup materials, parts of the front stands in the new Bernabéu can be raised and opened, giving it a futuristic feel!
Of course, when you come to the Bernabéu, don’t forget to visit their club museum! From the era of the Sky Football Club in 1902, more than a hundred years of history and honors are here. The European Cups won over the years, and the close companions of football legends (such as Zinedine Zidane's boots) are all displayed here for fans from around the world to pay homage.
Old Madrid has many spots suitable for climbing to get a bird's-eye view. This time I discovered a new landmark that is interesting both inside and out — Centrocentro.
This cultural center, located in the sunny district of Madrid, was formerly the Postal Building "Palacio de Cibeles," completed in the early 20th century. Imagine how spectacular and avant-garde a white stone building, adorned with glass and iron, must have seemed when it rose up in this city a hundred years ago.
The renovation now blends modern materials like concrete with classical aesthetics, making it a venue that can host various large-scale exhibitions and events — a great way to revitalize and utilize historic sites.
I recommend spending 3 euros to go up to the top floor of Centrocentro and enjoy a panoramic view of Madrid. There are also diagrams on the rooftop identifying different buildings along the skyline — very educational.
For my entire trip to Madrid, I stayed at the Hotel VP Plaza España, and I am very grateful for that! Besides the light-luxury urban design that perfectly suits my taste, its extremely convenient location — a 5-minute walk to the Royal Palace of Madrid — made exploring every attraction a breeze.
The combination of raw wood and gold metal fittings appeals to me as a Leo (狮子座), and I especially loved the dappled shadow tree wall decoration in the lobby and the giant gold-dripping relief that runs through the entire interior atrium of the hotel! Every art-related detail, including the small murals in the rooms, is appropriate and eye-catching.
Back to the room: the hotel’s uncluttered yet refined details easily relax any weary traveler. The layout centers on the bed, with a living/working area by the window. Waking up to the sight of the Cervantes Monument or, before sleep, watching people leisurely strolling in Plaza de España, immediately makes you feel that you are in the heart of Madrid.
The bathroom is very high-tech and comfortable to use. It's been a long time since I've seen such large bottles of L'Occitane verbena toiletries.
The lighting in the room is soft and technologically savvy — the lights follow your movement when you get up at night, very smart. Every morning, a breakfast with an astonishing variety of dishes awaits. The ham and sausages are of excellent quality; the most impressive are at least 8 types of fresh fruit and over 10 different herbal teas. Health-conscious visitors will feel like it's a holiday at Hotel VP Plaza España.
The hotel rooftop is a must-visit! The bar-restaurant GINKGO offers the currently popular Spanish-Japanese fusion cuisine, and in summer, the sofa area cover opens to become a rooftop pool. Sipping a drink while watching the Madrid sunset is simply amazing!
There is also a very appealing indoor pool on the ground floor, hidden behind a glass wall that lets you see the street. The SPA's sauna and treatments are a must-try!
Fashionable and bustling Madrid is a true shopping paradise. During this trip, I didn't idle away; I explored the first-hand shops of Madrid in 2024 and am sharing them all without reservation!
An important part of Madrid's elegant atmosphere is its beautiful classical buildings. I was the first to check out the new shopping center Galería Canalejas, and discovered how wonderfully a commercial complex can integrate with historical architecture.
Galería Canalejas was formerly the Bank of Spain's American headquarters, completed in 1902. Since 2012, renovation has preserved the historic facade while upgrading the interior, turning it into a mixed-use complex housing a five-star hotel, shopping center, restaurants, and more.
Galería Canalejas boasts exquisite decorative details. Because it was formerly a bank, many elements such as bank safe-deposit boxes and metal doors have been preserved. For example, three sets of hand-blown traditional glass lamps at the entrance each contain 315 bulbs. There are also display cases creatively transformed from old safe frames and doors.
For the shopping oriented, the second and third floors now house more than twenty international and local brands, plus a stunning VIP room for high-end customers to shop in peace. The tax refund process is also extremely convenient.
Galería Canalejas also shines in dining. Apart from the café on the first floor atrium, which is catered by the Royal Theatre of Spain, the basement level covers cuisines from around the world, including several popular bars and even a Cantonese dim sum restaurant!
For example, at St. James, where we had dinner, the marine-inspired color scheme hinted that the seafood here is special.
The paella in the pan is generous with ingredients and delicious, and the beef burger is also interesting!
Currently, Galería Canalejas offers 400 parking spaces in the heart of Madrid. Even if you just buy a cup of coffee at the mall, you get 2 hours of free parking!
Those familiar with Spain will certainly know El Corte Inglés Castellana, the giant department store chain. I visited their largest store in Madrid, conveniently located a 10-15 minute walk from the Bernabéu, next to a square — a great place to combine with a visit to Real Madrid's home.
The store includes almost every major international luxury brand you can imagine, many top local brands, and even niche Spanish-only brands.
A pleasant surprise: the shopping center has a large supermarket with affordable prices for souvenirs, and for wine lovers, a dedicated high-end supermarket area where wines are categorized by region and terroir, with professional guides offering shopping inspiration!
We also dined at the food court in this high-end supermarket, tasting several award-winning potato dishes and sampling wines from the Madrid region.
At El Corte Inglés Castellana, you can pay by card, cash, Alipay, or WeChat, and also handle tax refunds. They have a dedicated Chinese tax refund service area — very thoughtful!
El Corte Inglés Castellana also offers personal shopping services. Pay 300 euros (deductible from purchases), and a stylist gives you fashion advice and inspiration.
Madrid has many exquisite and beautiful neighborhoods, with countless creative small shops scattered among the classical buildings, showcasing Madrid's rich commercial and artistic atmosphere. I was lucky to go on a local-guided exploration, walking through the area around the Plaza Mayor in the old city center and the romantic, luxurious Salamanca district, uncovering many places that make shopping lovers unable to move.
A handmade cape shop favored by both Picasso and Michael Jackson! The shop opened in 1901 and has been run by the fourth generation. They specialize in handmade European-style capes for men and women, from everyday fashionable styles to formalwear for occasions. They also accept custom tailoring. The fourth-generation owner showed us how to make a high-end cape "cut with one stroke, no hemming required" — an amazing skill! Even the scissors used have been handed down for generations; the scissors factory closed over forty years ago, but the cape shop still uses them!
Capas Seseña’s illustrious client list includes not only Michael Jackson, who wore one in performances, but also devoted fan Picasso. Even at Picasso's funeral, he wore a cape from Capas Seseña. The museum in Picasso’s birthplace, Málaga, also displays a Cape from Capas Seseña.
The prices of capes here are much cheaper than I imagined! They range from 300 to 700 euros; custom orders take 2 to 6 weeks. Depending on thickness, the capes use at least 90% wool, sourced from a small town called Beja in Spain.
A ceramic jewelry and bag brand that has become popular in China surprisingly originated from a small studio in Madrid!
Andrés Gallardo, founded in 2011, fires high-hardness ceramics to create various fun shapes, making unique decorations for jewelry and genuine leather handbags. Their most classic patterns are rabbits and cats — cute and heartwarming, with a simple beauty.
In Madrid's literary district, besides the former home of the great writer Cervantes, there is a lovely popular concept store: Real Fábrica. Founded in 2014 as a family shop, it developed into an online store, and in 2018, due to booming business, opened a physical store.
The owner travels around the country, selecting niche brands from Spanish designers and artisans, sourcing directly, hoping to bring traditional craftsmanship to Madrid and promote it.
Besides their signature 100% pure wool scarves and shawls, they also have hats, jewelry, various skincare products, wine, olive oil, and even ham! The range is astonishingly comprehensive!
A niche jewelry store that perfectly reflects the sophistication of Salamanca. Entering this boutique, open for 23 years, the first impression is white; the second is attention to detail. I love their various genuine leather handbags, with large agate pieces as their most iconic emblem.
They have turned the leftover leather from bag-making into a wall decoration, adhering to sustainability concepts, using all resources encountered in production without waste. On the wall, you can also see agate fragments used as decoration — leftover materials from cutting jewelry and bags.
One of the shops I couldn't tear myself away from is Ladenac Milano, a candle and fragrance store in the Salamanca district. The store name Ladenac, read backwards, is "Canedal" (candle) in Italian — very clever! The brand was founded by the owner when living in Italy, using perfume blending concepts to make scented oils and candles.
The staff enthusiastically introduced each series: the "Organic Series" — using recycled leather for bottle casings; candles with Chinese character names borrowing Eastern elements; my personal favorite is the series named after five different districts of Madrid. Because the owner loves exploring shops, he used his nighttime experiences in these five districts as inspiration, using pure natural fragrance materials without chemical additives. The "Salamanca District" candle is now on my nightstand as my sleep scent.
The store design is also noteworthy: all lights use the warm color temperature of candle flames, very fitting; one wall is embedded with fireproof panels from 19th-century London, with natural grain patterns from age as the most interesting wall decoration. The store also keeps an original candle machine from a late-19th-century Spanish candle factory! Ask the staff to take you to the "backstage" to see it!
If you want a candy to represent Madrid, it must be the violet flower candy made from the violets blooming everywhere in spring; if you want a brand to represent the quality of violet candy, it must be the oldest, La Pajarita. Even the newly opened high-end mall Galería Canalejas has a store in its atrium lobby.
To check if a shop in Madrid has at least a hundred years of history, look at the floor in front of the door for a bronze plaque representing "century-old shop." La Pajarita opened in 1852 and has been passed down through six generations. It is undoubtedly the oldest candy store in Madrid. The first La Pajarita originally opened at Puerta del Sol and moved to its current location in the Salamanca district in the 1990s.
La Pajarita's three most classic candies: the violet candy, whose recipe has never changed; the Classic series of hard candies in 17 flavors — when the store first opened, there were only 12 flavors, and a new flavor is added only every 35 years! Very meticulous! The third is Pajaritas chocolates, with the iconic "origami bird" shape.
Even the iron candy buckets used to store bulk candies are 170 years old. Everywhere you see the brand's heritage: the original score of the advertising jingle, box design drawings, 19th-century handmade glass candy jars, and various origami birds made from candy wrappers or other materials given as gifts by customers...
On the second floor, there is a private dining space overlooking the almond blossom street view of Madrid. It was a pleasure to visit that cute little attic, drinking champagne, tasting their candies, and chatting with friends. The current owner is also a candy fanatic! He once traveled to various places in Central and South America to find the best cocoa beans for chocolate making and contracted a local disease that nearly killed him — a passion of "if I learn the truth in the morning, I can die in the evening"! Tip: You can pay with WeChat/Alipay, very convenient.
For a foodie in Madrid, it's like a mouse falling into an olive oil vat — daily bliss. I jotted down every meal from this trip; there's bound to be a restaurant you'll like.
Conveniently located between Plaza de España and the Royal Palace. The first floor is a bar and restaurant area, the second floor is the main dining area, very elegant and classic.
The cuisine is classic Spanish with a refined European style. From salads to fish to seafood, everything is safe. The wine selection is extensive, from Spain's finest wine regions, with great value.
Recognized by Guinness World Records as the oldest existing restaurant in the world, open since 1725, using the same oven to cook delicious traditional Spanish dishes for guests. Botín will celebrate its 300th birthday next year! Even the great writer Hemingway said it was one of the best restaurants he had ever eaten at!
Must-try roast pork and roast lamb. This time, because we had a large group, we tried roast lamb. The oven temperature is high enough to make the meat tender and juicy, not greasy at all! According to a companion who had eaten Botín's roast pork before, it was also extremely tender, and they even use their own custom olive oil brand.
Be sure to reserve early, or you'll experience long queues at this popular old restaurant.
The restaurant is next to Plaza de España, on the ground floor of the Hotel VP Plaza España where I stayed throughout the trip. I really liked the green and gold color scheme — natural and noble.
The restaurant specializes in Madrid cuisine. The ham-stuffed potato croquettes are outstanding; the potato omelet (tortilla de patatas) is also a representative dish of Madrid, very appetizing.
Of course, seafood lovers can also enjoy fresh tuna tartare here. During the meal, you can see locals having team-building dinners; most diners speak Spanish, showing it's an authentic local restaurant.
A must for girls who love taking photos! A Madrid must-visit influencer spot! The restaurant is right next to Centrocentro, perfect for a meal and a drink after viewing exhibitions and the panorama. Nearby is the upscale Salamanca district, so you can recharge and continue shopping.
Real and fake ferns and mural paintings, combined with jungle-IG aesthetic colors and furniture, every angle of La Raimunda is photogenic.
The food is pan-European. For example, the avocado and fish fillet cold plate we had was sour and fresh, hard to stop eating — very youthful flavors.
One thing you must do in Spain is watch a flamenco show. At Corral de la Morería, you can enjoy both a performance and a Michelin-team dinner!
Flamenco is a trinity of singing, dancing, and guitar playing. At Corral de la Morería, each diner receives a card — not a menu, as you might think, but a lineup of the evening's performers!
Compared to the usual "background dining entertainment," this place pushes the professionalism and ritual of Spain's national art form to the extreme.
I recommend arriving 45 minutes before the show starts, finishing your meal before focusing entirely on the performance for a better experience!
The Madrid Tourism Board's latest theme for 2024 is "88 Hours Exploring Madrid." I spent 5 days in Madrid and deeply felt that it's not enough, really not enough. If you happen to have a long vacation, you must go to Madrid. It has what you want, and even more than you expect!
