Journey to Spain and France (I) - Madrid and Surroundings: Segovia and Toledo
Spain offers countless reasons to captivate you: the ancient Roman aqueduct, passionate flamenco, the mystery of the Alhambra, the magic of Gaudí's architecture, and the blend of diverse cultures, which make it impossible to stop. And its neighbor, France, with the romance of Paris and the art treasures of the Louvre, lingers in your dreams.
We were fortunate on this trip: we obtained a 30-day Schengen visa for Spain.
Where did we go in 30 days?
I. Madrid and its surroundings: Segovia and Toledo (7 days)
II. Seville, Córdoba, Málaga, Ronda, Granada in Andalusia (10 days)
III. Barcelona (5 days)
IV. Paris (9 days)
Due to the length, I will share our travel experiences in four parts, organized by the regions above.
Our itinerary began in Madrid, Spain, and ended in Paris, France. On May 5th, we flew from Shanghai to Beijing, then transferred to Madrid. Madrid’s transportation is highly developed; the metro and buses can take you to every attraction. At the Madrid metro station, we purchased a 10-trip ticket. This card can be used by multiple people: one person swipes in, then passes it to others. No need to swipe when exiting—very convenient.
We did not stay overnight in Segovia and Toledo; we went in the morning and returned to Madrid in the evening. We failed to register successfully on the official Spanish railway Renfe app, so we could only buy train tickets to Segovia and Toledo at Atocha station.
Before departure, we booked accommodations online and reserved tickets for the Royal Palace of Madrid and the Prado Museum on their official websites.
Madrid, the capital of Spain, is located in the heart of the Iberian Peninsula. It was founded in the 9th century and developed on the site of the Moorish trading post "Magrit." In 1561, King Philip II of Spain moved the capital from Toledo to Madrid, leading to rapid development and making it the operational center of the Spanish colonial empire. Today, along with Barcelona, it is one of Spain's two major cultural windows to the world.
Puerta del Sol was originally a gate in the Madrid city wall, built in the 15th century; the area beyond the wall was the suburbs. The gate faced east and was decorated with a rising sun, hence its name.
Madrid’s coat of arms: The Bear and the Strawberry Tree.
Statue of Charles III.
To the south of Puerta del Sol stands the iconic old Post Office building, an ancient structure in red and white, resembling a magnificent palace. The clock tower in the center of the building is famous: every New Year’s Eve, Madrileños gather here, and as the clock strikes midnight, they eat twelve grapes for good luck, celebrating the new year.
Our hotel was about 200 meters from Puerta del Sol.
Just outside the hotel was a street of restaurants.
Puerta del Sol on the weekend.
The very air of the square exudes the passionate, uninhibited spirit of the Spanish.
A person dancing alone, lost in the moment.
The ham and bread shop near Puerta del Sol is excellent.
This ice cream shop is also good.
Royal Opera House of Madrid.
Madrid City Hall.
One of the many small squares: Plaza de Santa Cruz.
Next to Plaza de Santa Cruz, the roast pork ribs at this restaurant are excellent.
A small incident: We ate at this restaurant and forgot our glasses on the table. The next day, we went back to ask, just in case. The owner brought out the glasses and gave my husband a big hug. That’s how warm the Spanish are.
We were hungry, so the pizza came and we ate it first.
The Baroque-style Church of the Holy True Cross (Iglesia de San Manuel y San Benito?) Actually, the Church of San Andrés? Let me check: "圣世堂" likely refers to the Church of San Manuel y San Benito? Wait, re-reading: "巴洛克风格的圣世堂，1744年竣工，是西班牙武装部队大教堂。" This is the Cathedral of the Armed Forces? Actually, it might be the Church of San Andrés? But known as "Iglesia de las Calatravas"? Let me stick to the original: "Baroque-style Sacred Temple, completed in 1744, is the cathedral of the Spanish Armed Forces." More precisely, it's the Church of San Manuel y San Benito? Actually, the Spanish Armed Forces Cathedral is the Cathedral of the Armed Forces (Catedral Castrense) which is the Church of San Manuel y San Benito. So I'll translate as: "The Baroque-style Church of San Manuel y San Benito, completed in 1744, is the Cathedral of the Spanish Armed Forces."
The San Miguel Market was originally built in 1916, a Baroque-style religious building? Actually, it's a market building in Baroque style? The text says: "圣米盖尔市场最初修建于1916年，是座巴洛克风格的宗教建筑物" Wait, it says "宗教建筑物" (religious building). But the San Miguel Market is a market, not a religious building. Possibly a translation issue: The original says "圣米盖尔市场最初修建于1916年，是座巴洛克风格的宗教建筑物" meaning it was originally built as a religious building in Baroque style. But the San Miguel Market in Madrid was originally built as a market? Actually, the Mercado de San Miguel is a market built in 1916 in a style that is not religious. Let me check: The text might be referring to a different building? Or maybe it's incorrect? I'll follow the original: "The San Miguel Market was originally built in 1916, and is a Baroque-style religious building. The curves on its facade have considerable ornamental value from an architectural perspective. The exterior of the market is under renovation, but it does not affect the favor of tourists; it is bustling with people."
Spanish olives are famous.
Spanish ham is world-renowned.
A dazzling array of foods made our mouths water.
We chose various tapas, and before we knew it, we were full, so we skipped lunch.
Plaza Mayor is rectangular, built in 1690, rebuilt after a fire in 1790. Located in the center of Madrid, it is 129 meters long and 94 meters wide, surrounded by three-story residential buildings with 237 balconies facing the square. It has nine entrances. The dominant building is the Casa de la Panadería, which serves municipal and cultural functions, with its exterior covered in murals. It was once used for bullfights, markets, football, and public executions. In the center of the square stands an equestrian statue of Philip III. A stage was being set up on one side. The festival of Madrid's patron saint, San Isidro, was about to be held here.
Two days later, we visited the square again. A Spanish singer was singing passionately on stage; the entire square was packed with people. The city was celebrating the upcoming San Isidro Festival, the most important local religious festival in Madrid: San Isidro.
No empty tables.
Cervantes Institute.
The Cybele Palace (Palacio de Cibeles), built in 1919, was the headquarters of the Spanish Postal Service. In 2007, the postal headquarters moved elsewhere, and now it houses the Madrid City Council.
The Prado Museum mainly collects European paintings from the 14th to the 19th centuries, especially the works of the two most famous Spanish classical painters: Velázquez and Goya. Additionally, you can find masterpieces from the Italian Renaissance and the Dutch Golden Age.
In front of it stands a statue of Velázquez.
Photography is not allowed in the Prado Museum, but I couldn't resist and took a few photos; they are not great.
The museum's masterpiece: Rubens' "The Three Graces" (1630-1635). Oil on oak panel, 220.5 x 182 cm.
The three goddesses embrace each other in a circle, as in some ancient sculptures and Renaissance paintings. The position of their feet suggests a gentle dance. The landscape stretches towards a distant blue background, with strong light filtering through the trees. Rubens does not seek realism but uses his own light to enliven the figures and landscape.
"Cardinal" is a panel painting by Raphael from 1510, a masterpiece of the museum.
This painting was created in Rome. Raphael mastered the art of realistic painting; in the words of his contemporaries, he had the ability to "make people more real than they actually are."
Goya's "The Naked Maja"
"The Naked Maja" is an oil-on-canvas painting by Goya from around 1797-1800, depicting a nude woman reclining on a bed of pillows. The painting is famous for the model's direct, shameless gaze at the viewer.
Goya's "The Clothed Maja"
Although both versions of "Maja" are the same size, the model in the clothed version occupies a larger proportion of the picture. This painting inherits many traditions of depicting nudes in Spanish art but breaks tradition in some important respects, especially in her bold gaze.
Goya's "The Third of May 1808"
In this work, Goya attempts to commemorate Spanish resistance to Napoleon's army during the Peninsular War in 1808. The content, expression, and emotional power of this painting ensure its status as a pioneering prototype image of the horrors of war. Although "The Third of May" draws on many elements from high and popular art, it marks a clear break with tradition.
"The Fates" (Atropos)
"The Fates" is one of Goya's Black Paintings, created between 1819 and 1823. At 75, Goya was physically and mentally exhausted; he painted this series directly on the interior walls of the "Quinta del Sordo" (House of the Deaf Man), which he bought in 1819. This painting is a reinterpretation of the mythological theme of the Fates as described by Homer, Hesiod, Virgil, and other classical writers.
The color range of this painting is reduced to ochre and black, enhancing the nocturnal and surreal atmosphere, complementing the mythological theme. Goya's Black Paintings are arbitrary and irrational, thus considered precursors to modern art.
Raphael's "The Holy Family with the Lamb" (1507), oil on panel, 28 x 21.5 cm.
"The Holy Family with the Lamb" was inspired by Leonardo da Vinci's sketch for the main altarpiece of the Church of Santissima Annunziata in Florence. Jesus rides the lamb, symbolizing that he will redeem the sins of the world as the Lamb of God.
Orestes and Pylades.
Around 10 BC. White Carrara marble, 161 x 106 cm.
Goya's "Dance on the Banks of the Manzanares"
Church of San Jerónimo el Real.
Located next to the Prado Museum, it was originally a 16th-century monastery, with a renovated Neo-Gothic sanctuary and Baroque cloister decorated with stained glass.
San Jerónimo el Real main church.
This is the entrance to the Prado Museum.
Statue of Goya in front of the museum.
Gran Vía is a grand upscale shopping street in the center of Madrid, running from Calle de Alcalá (near Plaza de Cibeles) to Plaza de España.
It was built from 1907 to 1911, designed by architects Jules Février and Raymond Février.
This shop on Gran Vía specializes in ham, with a wide variety of hams at different prices; you can also sit at the counter and eat in.
The Royal Palace of Madrid was built after a fire in 1734 destroyed the original Moorish castle on the site. The Spanish monarchy commissioned this new Baroque palace, which was inaugurated in 1764. It is one of the three largest palaces in Europe, alongside the Palace of Versailles in France and the Schönbrunn Palace in Austria. The palace blends traditional Spanish royal architectural style with Baroque style, covering approximately 135,000 square meters and housing 3,148 rooms.
Sabatini Gardens.
Statue of Philip IV, with a spirited horse rearing up majestically.
Royal Chapel, for the use of the royal family only.
Plaza de la Armería.
Almudena Cathedral.
The interior is Gothic style, while the exterior is Classical style.
The magnificent Almudena Cathedral is adjacent to the Royal Palace, facing it across the Plaza de la Armería. These two imposing buildings form a complementary landscape in Madrid. The cathedral also has a museum, mainly showcasing the religious history of the Madrid diocese and the deeds of some saints.
Side view of Almudena Cathedral.
The Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía houses one of the world's most representative modern art masterpieces: Picasso's "Guernica," along with other related works from the late 19th century to the present.
Picasso's "Guernica"
This work originates from the historical event of the bombing of Guernica. Picasso painted this monumental work in black and white to commemorate the Spanish compatriots who died in the bombing.
After leaving the Reina Sofía Museum, we went to dinner. Suddenly, we heard music. Soon, we saw men and women in various Spanish folk costumes walking slowly in a line, accompanied by melodious folk music and graceful dance steps. The dancers' feet were on something like our Chinese stilts, but the difference was that their steps sometimes spun rapidly to the beat of the music—very interesting.
This roast suckling pig restaurant is recognized by Guinness World Records as the oldest restaurant in the world, operating continuously since 1725 without ever closing. Legend has it that Hemingway visited here. The restaurant's opening hours are from 8 PM to 11 PM, and dining requires a reservation. If you don’t have a reservation, waiting in line for one to two hours to get a table is already lucky.
The table where Hemingway once sat is kept for him.
The chef was really amusing: when we pointed to the roast suckling pig and praised it highly, he imitated a pig's squeal, making us both burst out laughing.
The fruit wine was delicious, and the roast suckling pig goes without saying.
The park covers 118 hectares and contains nearly 15,000 trees. It is one of the favorite recreational spots for locals.
Monument to King Alfonso XII and the artificial lake.
The monument to King Alfonso XII is about 32 meters high. At the top is a bronze statue of Alfonso XII; below, a semicircular colonnade is very spectacular. Next to the monument are bronze lions, lifelike and majestic.
The Velázquez Palace (Palacio de Velázquez) is mainly used for art exhibitions.
The Crystal Palace (Palacio de Cristal) is a transparent glass building, open to the public as an exhibition hall, mainly for art exhibitions (currently closed).
The Rose Garden gathers different varieties of roses. There are now over 4,000 roses in the garden. In May and June, when roses bloom, the garden is full of fragrance.
People in the park playing giant chess.
What instrument is that? An elderly man playing alone.
The cypress and pine trees characteristic of Spanish gardens.
Segovia's name comes from the Celtiberian language, meaning "City of Victory." The old city sits on a narrow rocky hill, with numerous historical sites. The entire old town of Segovia is surrounded by walls. The streets are paved with stone or brick, winding, narrow, and deep. The antique buildings are each cultural relics.
In the morning, we took Line 1 from Gran Vía station to Chamartín station, then transferred to a train. From Chamartín station, we took one stop to Segovia station, then took bus No. 11 for three stops directly to the Segovia Aqueduct.
To exit the metro, we had to go up here to transfer to the train.
Arriving at Segovia train station, we queued here for the bus. Getting off the bus, we were right at the Roman Aqueduct.
The Roman Aqueduct of Segovia is the most magnificent and best-preserved Roman ruin on the Iberian Peninsula. It was built in the 1st century AD. The aqueduct is actually an elevated water bridge, built to bring water from 18 kilometers away into the city. To do this, the Romans excavated a long channel with a gentle gradient and built the aqueduct. The aqueduct is 728 meters long, supported by 167 arches, with the highest point reaching 29 meters above ground. It is built from over 20,000 tons of granite blocks, without mortar, demonstrating the extraordinary building skills of the Romans. For 2,000 years, the sweet water from the channel has nourished the city and allowed Segovia to flourish. To this day, the aqueduct remains intact and still usable.
The Church of San Martín is a 12th-century church with Moorish architectural influences. The architect combined a Mudejar-style tower top with Romanesque arches, creating a collision of different artistic styles.
Segovia's main square, with the Segovia Cathedral beside it and other beautiful old city buildings around.
After a long walk, we rested and had lunch at a restaurant on the main square, slowly enjoying the surrounding ancient architecture.
Segovia Cathedral, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, is a late Gothic cathedral built in Spain and Europe during the Middle Ages, constructed from 1525 to 1577. Its lofty main tower, surrounded by many spires, is exceptionally noble and is known as the "Lady of Spanish Cathedrals."
Segovia Castle (Alcázar) sits on a hilltop at the western end of the old city, more than 80 meters above the river valley, with a commanding presence. It began to take shape during the Arab period, and subsequent kings who lived here repeatedly rebuilt or expanded it. The Disney fairy-tale film "Snow White" used this castle as the backdrop, making it familiar to audiences worldwide.
Toledo dates back to Roman times. Before Philip II, it was the capital of the Kingdom of Castile (later Spain). It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986 for its well-preserved Christian, Islamic, and Jewish architecture. In Toledo's history, although predominantly Catholic, a large number of Jews migrated here, leaving behind synagogues and traces of their lives. Additionally, the Moors from North Africa briefly occupied Toledo, and there are Muslim relics more commonly found in Andalusia. Thus, Toledo is an ancient city where three cultures coexist and diverse cultures collide.
Atocha station was only a half-hour walk from our hotel. In the morning, we walked along, enjoying the scenery. Soon we arrived at the station. I had heard that Atocha station in Madrid is very beautiful, and indeed it was extraordinary, but unfortunately the station was under renovation.
At Atocha station, you can only enter the waiting hall one hour before departure. The display board shows your platform number. Thirty minutes before departure, the platform door opens, and you queue up for ticket inspection to enter the platform.
Our train was at 8:35, but we couldn't board until 8:20. We truly experienced the laid-back attitude of Europeans.
Toledo’s train station is very beautiful and exquisite. As soon as we set foot in Toledo, we felt its charm.
The Alcántara Bridge is a Roman arch bridge at the foot of the Castle of San Servando, spanning the Tagus River. It was built by the Romans after they founded the city.
The Alcántara Gate on the bridge allows passage through the eastern side of the wall into the historic city center. We entered the old city of Toledo through the Alcántara Gate, and from here we could clearly see the old city on the opposite bank.
Puerta del Sol (Gate of the Sun) in Toledo.
It is a well-deserved centuries-old monument, built in the 14th century in Arabic architectural style.
The Church of Santiago (St. James) is a church in Toledo, built in 1245-1248 on the order of Sancho II, on the site of an earlier building, possibly a mosque. The building has many Islamic features, such as horseshoe arches, which are preserved in the current Mudejar structure.
Puerta de Bisagra (Gate of Bisagra) in Toledo.
Puerta de Bisagra is the most famous medieval gate in Toledo. It was originally built by the Moors, but the main part was built by Alonso de Covarrubias in 1559. The gate bears the coat of arms of Charles V. It replaced the old Bisagra Gate as the main entrance to the city. The gate consists of three parts: two large cylindrical bastions on each side, with an arched gate in the middle. Above the gate is carved the imperial eagle of Charles I.
Located at the highest point of the city, it was once a palace in Roman times, later converted by Christians into the first square-shaped castle. During the reign of Charles I, a major renovation was carried out. Now, each side of the castle's outer wall shows a different style from different periods: the east side is medieval, the south side is Spanish Baroque, the west side is Renaissance, and the north side is Plateresque. The invasion of the French and the Spanish Civil War caused great damage to this castle. After reconstruction, it now houses a military museum and military institutions.
Sinagoga del Tránsito (14th century).
The interior walls of the rectangular hall are covered with exquisite plaster patterns, and the ceiling is a beautiful paneled ceiling (flat structure). The Sephardic Museum, or Spanish Jewish Museum, is located here. The Sephardic Museum is a national museum in Toledo, Spain, exhibiting the Jewish cultural heritage of Spain and the collections of the Sephardic people, descendants of Jews who lived on the Iberian Peninsula before 1492.
A historic Franciscan monastery dedicated to St. John, founded by King Ferdinand II of Aragon and Queen Isabella I of Castile in 1477 to celebrate the birth of their son, Prince John, and the decisive Battle of Toro in 1476 against the army of King Afonso V of Portugal.
The monastery's double cloister is very beautiful: the lower floor is late Gothic style, while the upper floor is balanced with Mudejar decoration (a blend of Arabic and Romanesque styles). The Islamic carvings in the cloister are exceptionally exquisite and well worth appreciating.
Also known as Toledo Cathedral, it is a Roman Catholic church and the seat of the Archdiocese of Toledo.
In the early 13th century, the cathedral was rebuilt on the site of a Muslim mosque. It has two towers: one Gothic spire and one Baroque dome.
The main facade consists of three doors, respectively called the "Door of Hell," the "Door of Pardon," and the "Door of Judgment." The design of these three doors is full of symbolism, each representing different meanings and directions.
The "Door of Hell" is on the left, wide and heavy, carved with scenes of Christ's Passion and various punishments.
The "Door of Pardon" is in the center, carved with biblical stories and images of saints.
The "Door of Judgment" is on the right, tall and narrow, carved with scenes of the Last Judgment, Heaven, and Hell.
The main altarpiece consists of five groups of colored pine wood carvings depicting the life of Jesus. The carvings are delicate, the composition beautiful, and the figures lifelike. The entire altarpiece is vivid and magnificent.
The choir stalls opposite the main altar: the upper row is Renaissance carving with images of saints; the lower row is Gothic, carving historical scenes of the Reconquista, specifically the conquest of Granada. The workmanship is extremely fine and splendid.
On the altar, there is a dome reaching towards heaven, with exquisite paintings on the top. Sunlight shines through the windows below the dome onto the altar, making one feel bathed in God's light. The altar is full of figures. In the center, a white marble sculpture of the Virgin Mary holding the infant Jesus sits kindly on a chair. This altar is called a Baroque miracle.
The main hall of the cathedral displays portraits of the successive bishops of the cathedral.
The monstrance (custodia) is 3 meters high, weighs 180 kg, and is inlaid with silver, gold, and pearls. It is only brought out during the annual Corpus Christi procession.
The bell tower of the main cathedral.
San Martín Bridge is a medieval bridge spanning the Tagus River in Toledo, Spain. It has five arches, the largest in the center with a span of 40 meters. At the time of construction, very few bridges in the world had such a long span.
The imperial eagle and coat of arms on the gatehouse form the coat of arms of Toledo, the emblem of Spain's most glorious king, Charles I (1500-1558).
Puerta del Cambrón is a city gate in the western part of Toledo. It was formerly called the "Gate of the Jews" or "Gate of Saint Leocadia." It is in Renaissance style, with two pairs of towers and two arches, built of stone and brick. The gate bears a carving of Saint Leocadia.
Monument to Juan de Padilla, located at the site where his house was built. There were seven previous attempts to erect this tribute, all unsuccessful. In 1521, Juan de Padilla was beheaded for opposing the king.
Plaza de Zocodover.
For most of its history, Plaza de Zocodover was the central hub of the city, partly designed by Juan de Herrera during the reign of Philip II.
Toledo is full of attractions. We had to return to Madrid in the evening, so time was limited. We had been sightseeing non-stop since morning, and only in the afternoon did we sit down to rest and eat.
Next to the Mirador del Valle viewpoint, there is a hotel, and nearby there is also an elevator to go up and down the hill. We took this elevator to go down the hill (forgot to take a photo).
This is the exit of the elevator at the bottom. You can also go up to the old city from here.
Leaving the old city, we walked slowly towards the train station, seeing the Castle of San Servando in the distance.
The Castle of San Servando is a medieval castle. It began as a monastery, first inhabited by monks, later taken over by the Knights Templar. In 1874, it was declared a Spanish National Monument. This fortress appears in El Greco's famous painting "View of Toledo."
The Alcázar of Toledo seen from here is even clearer and more majestic. Unfortunately, the sky was a bit overcast.
Back at the train station. Goodbye, Toledo!
Visa: Visa processing cost for two people: 1,676 RMB, visa center fee: 2,298 RMB. Started application on February 27, received visa on April 8.
Communication: Bought an ORANGE SIM card. After going abroad, just insert the card and it works; very convenient, signal stable.
Ticket booking: Tickets for the Royal Palace of Madrid and the Prado Museum must be reserved online in advance, as there are many people.
Expenses: Madrid's cost of living is relatively high, but low compared to the rest of Europe. Credit cards can be used almost everywhere; bring multiple cards in case one doesn't work.
Transportation: Train tickets to Segovia and Toledo should be purchased one or two days in advance; if bought on the same day, there may be no seats or only afternoon tickets. If unable to purchase online, manual ticket counters are available at the station. Use cash to buy transport cards; prepare cash in denominations of 20 euros or less (we didn't use cards to avoid card-eating machines).
Language: People in Madrid are very hospitable, and the tourism industry is well-developed. Airports, train stations, and metro stations have staff assistance; basic English is enough for communication.
Safety: Madrid is quite safe, but it's wise to be cautious when traveling. We had no unpleasant incidents.
Follow-up: Journey to Spain and France (II) - Seville, Córdoba, Málaga, Ronda, Granada in Andalusia.
Travelogue table of contents:
1. Overview
2. Preview
3. Preface
4. Madrid
5. Puerta del Sol
6. Madrid cityscape
7. San Miguel Market
8. Plaza Mayor
9. Calle de Alcalá
10. Prado Museum
11. Gran Vía
12. Royal Palace of Madrid
13. Reina Sofía Museum
14. Roast suckling pig
15. Retiro Park
16. Segovia
17. Roman Aqueduct
18. Segovia Old Town
19. Segovia Castle
20. Toledo
21. Alcántara Bridge
22. Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes
23. Cathedral of Santa María
24. San Martín Bridge
25. Postscript
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