From Nanjing to Jinling

Nanjing had always been, in my mind, the 'ancient capital of six dynasties,' and my memories of Jinling were confined to various nostalgic poems. This autumn trip offered me a glimpse of the once-prosperous capital, and I truly got to know this beautiful city for the first time. Before setting out, I read many travel guides, looked up lots of information, booked hotels and transport, and even prepared short-sleeved shirts, long-sleeved shirts, and windbreakers to cover summer, autumn, and winter weather due to the unpredictable forecast. Thanks to the favorable weather, I made it through the entire trip in just a long-sleeved shirt with a cardigan.

First stop: Fuzimiao scenic area, purely because of those two famous essays, 'The Sound of Oars and Lantern Light on the Qinhuai River.' From Sanshanjie Metro Station, it's only a ten-minute walk to Fuzimiao.

Then, a cruise on the Qinhuai—forgive the poor quality of my phone photos...

Laomendong Historical and Cultural Block: I went there early in the morning when it was still uncrowded, so even though it's small, the ambiance was truly lovely.

Wandering through the narrow alleys, I stumbled upon several restaurants from the 'Eight Delicacies of Qinhuai' cluster, all near Zhonghua Gate. Liufengju and Zhanyuan Noodle House are neighbors, and Jiangyouji is tucked behind Liufengju.

Zhonghua Gate Citadel: admission 50 yuan, opens at 8:30.

Passing through Dasifu Alley, I happened to spot Yongheyuan Restaurant. Aqua City was right across the street, its location very prominent at the intersection.

Jiangnan Gongyuan consists of two parts; the Imperial Examination Culture Exhibition on the opposite side is included. Admission 40 yuan, open 8:30–22:00.

Zhan Garden: mainly to see the exhibition on the history of the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom.

After all that exploration, time to eat. The foodie in me headed back to Laomendong, because there were still a few things I hadn't tried...

Stomach satisfied, I officially set off for the Zhongshan Scenic Area. A combo ticket costs 100 yuan, covering Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum, Meiling Palace, Music Platform, and Linggu Temple. Opening times vary by site.

First, Linggu Temple: the lack of crowds gave a strong sense of seeking out an ancient temple deep in the mountains.

Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum: at the gate of the mausoleum, head west to reach the Sacred Way. Walk the entire Sacred Way, then retrace your steps to see the mausoleum itself.

And now the highlight: Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum, probably the most crowded spot in the whole scenic area.

Music Platform: lots of people feeding pigeons.

Meiling Palace: the former villa of Chiang Kai-shek and Soong Mei-ling.

Pressed for time, I couldn't examine many places in detail. I recommend a full day for the Zhongshan Scenic Area. Food options inside are very limited and expensive, so bring your own snacks or grab something from KFC or the like.

Jiming Temple, said to be 'the foremost of the 480 temples of the Southern Dynasties.' Incense ticket 10 yuan, open until 17:30.

Walk north along the road in front of Jiming Temple and you'll reach Xuanwu Lake.

After a full day of walking, dinner had to be sumptuous, so I went to Nanjing Impressions. It was very crowded; I waited about fifteen minutes for a table.

Nanjing Museum, originally the National Central Museum. Free admission with an ID card. On Mondays open only 9:00–12:00, other days until 17:00; note that entry stops one hour before closing.

Coming out of the museum, walk west along East Zhongshan Road for about ten minutes to reach the Ming Palace Ruins.

Li Hongzhang's Ancestral Hall: I found it entirely using Amap directions. I gave up asking locals pretty quickly because I suspected they wouldn't know either.

The Memorial Hall of the Victims in Nanjing Massacre by Japanese Invaders, open 8:30–16:30, closed all day Mondays.

And that was a perfect end to my Nanjing trip. Although many places remained unexplored and many delicacies untasted, I'll always hold this city in anticipation and longing. I walked a long way, learned many things—it was a worthwhile journey. Farewell, Jinling...