A Nanjing Local's View of Nanjing – The Breathtakingly Beautiful Shijiu Lake

Travel date: April 2020

Travel mode: Self-drive

Address: Hefeng Town, Lishui District, Nanjing

I spotted the Shijiu Lake wetland reserve in a Lishui tourism brochure. I remembered an article I read long ago about Shijiu Lake Bridge being a magnificent bridge crossing the lake, so I wanted to go see it. But when I typed 'Shijiu Lake wetland reserve' into Amap, nothing came up. So I set the destination as the northern starting point of the bridge. Leaving the old Putang Bridge, I drove along Provincial Route 341 and Ninggao Highway – good roads, light traffic. Soon the elevated tracks of the S9 metro line appeared alongside. At this intersection I could see the vast lake. After crossing the traffic light, I'd be driving onto the bridge. On a whim, I turned left toward the northern embankment of Shijiu Lake.

Address: Near Zhao Village, Hefeng Town, Lishui District, Nanjing

The car turned onto Tangjia Line along the embankment, and the scene ahead was a wonderful surprise. The winding bridge soared above the lake like a dragon's vein. Lakeside wetlands were lush with green grass; cattle and sheep grazed freely on the grass, strolled about; people worked in the fields.

I parked the car by the embankment where a stone marker showed the village name – Zhao Village. If you've never been here, now you know: just navigate to Zhao Village north of the bridge, and you'll arrive at this beautiful Shijiu Lake wetland area.

I jumped out of the car excitedly, wanting to throw myself into this beautiful scenery.

Tangjia Line, running along Shijiu Lake, is a scenic route.

Green lake flats spread before me. The lake water nourished the grass lushly, forming broad grasslands. The grassy flats were divided into patches by crisscrossing channels. Behind the grass flats, the bridge was like a divine brushstroke sweeping across the lake, stretching out of sight, nobody knew where it led.

Cattle dotted the grass flats leisurely. This is a new fast route to Lishui and Gaochun. The Shijiu Lake Bridge is the section of the Ninggao New Expressway crossing the lake; the bridge spans Shijiu Lake with a total length of 12,617.2 meters. The bridge piers lined up majestically, and the power poles along the rails also lined up, creating a strong sense of line.

An orange train glided along the elevated track above the lake, like something out of a fairy tale.

The green grass on the lake flats formed vast grasslands. On a ridge, a lone tree stood in solitude, admiring itself.

Among the green grass flats were a few building remnants, lending a slightly weathered atmosphere.

The hydrological point by the embankment was itself a scenic spot.

Every angle was simply gorgeous.

This 'blue sea' looked just like a giant comma.

There's a landmark here reading 'Nanjing Shijiu Lake.' Because Shijiu Lake is vast – covering 207.65 square kilometers – it's a boundary lake among four districts: Lishui District of Nanjing, Gaochun District of Nanjing, Dangtu County of Ma’anshan, and Bowang District. This sign tells us it belongs to Jiangsu Province.

I swooped down from the embankment straight onto the grassy flats,

getting close to this beautiful land.

A three-carriage S9 train came rolling across the bridge, slicing through the air like a flash of lightning.

The track merged with the bridge, creating a grand spectacle.

Around the sleek curve in the distance on the embankment, a car approached; at first only its headlights twinkled like shooting stars.

The Shijiu Lake Bridge grandly cuts across the lake surface.

Spanning north and south like a rainbow resting on the water, it drew a graceful S-curve against the blue sky, white clouds, and rippling waves.

The vast sky and low horizon merged bridge, sky, earth, and lake into one, becoming a stunning sight on Shijiu Lake. On second thought, was the bridge adorning Shijiu Lake, or was Shijiu Lake amplifying the bridge's majesty?

Wetlands are transition zones between terrestrial and aquatic ecosystems, so their topography is rich.

Wetlands include swamps, wet meadows, lakes, rivers, floodplains, deltas, peat bogs, mudflats, riverbank depressions, and wet grasslands. This wetland showed us many landforms.

The green grassland here was as lush and broad as a prairie.

Scattered goats were busy grazing. With such beautiful surroundings and abundant grass, the goats here were truly fortunate.

A baby goat, still unable to stand, lay softly on the grass.

It wasn't eating, just gazing at me lazily.

The mother goat watched over her baby.

Goats on the hillock.

I studied the posture of the grass closely.

A family walked along the ridge, taking their children out to enjoy nature.

The lush, water-logged wetland became even more vibrant with our footsteps.

Occasional visitors paused with interest to watch wetland locals at work.

Shijiu Lake is the largest natural freshwater lake in the Nanjing region, covering 330,000 mu (about 22,000 hectares). It collects the clear waters of Jiangnan, making it a pure, natural freshwater lake. The lake nurtures the beings along its shores and also sustains the villagers living there.

Living by the water, the indigenous people of Shijiu Lake naturally make a living from it. They raise ducks and geese, set nets for fish. It’s said that 'when the sun rises, gold dou flows; when the sun sets, silver dou flows,' and the villagers lead an affluent life.

Everything here is so tranquil, peaceful, and beautiful.

Against the pure blue sky, the grass glowed emerald green – pure and serene.

Waves rippled, water plants swayed.

Ponds of varying sizes spread before me, and in the distance stretched the boundless blue lake. The bridge across the lake merged into one with the sky and earth.

On a warm spring day like this, facing such a view, you could imagine all kinds of beauty. Everything you can imagine is here.

In this serene world, the cattle were at ease.

A beautiful black-and-white cow enriched the scene.

Besides cattle and sheep, many bird species inhabited the wetland, quietly resting in the grass, fluttering across the fields, or spreading their wings in flight – but my camera couldn’t capture them; you’ll have to come and see for yourself.

Come here, to the shores of Shijiu Lake, watch the green grass ripple in the breeze, see fishermen go to work at sunrise. In this place without noise, listen closely to nature’s sounds. Watch clouds roll and unfurl, feel the breathtaking charm of Shijiu Lake. Especially our minds, in this vast, still, beautiful world, get cleansed, the mental clutter emptied.

Take one more look at the curved embankment. This is the northern levee of Shijiu Lake near Zhao Village, Lishui District, and also the northern starting point of Shijiu Lake Bridge. From here heading south along the east side of the Jiangsu-Anhui provincial boundary, it ends at the southern levee about 1.3 km west of Turtle Mountain in Gaochun District. I climbed back onto the embankment, started the car, and we set off again.

Shijiu Lake Bridge

Address: Lishui, Gaochun District, Nanjing City, Jiangsu Province

We left Zhao Village on the northern shore and drove onto the bridge surface heading south.

A long expressway stretched across the entire lake. Smooth road, few cars, magnificent scenery. The vast lake gave us the illusion of crossing the sea. Last year I wanted to experience that feeling on the Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macao Bridge but didn’t make it. Now on Shijiu Lake Bridge, 12.6 km across the lake, I imagined the sea-crossing feeling. After driving a while, the navigation announced we’d entered Gaochun District of Nanjing.

This bridge is different from the ones we usually travel. It uses two separate bridges for inbound and outbound lanes, with concrete crash barriers on both sides. In the middle is a rail transit channel: for the metro. The vehicle part uses a 4-lane Class 1 highway standard.

This rail line, also known as Ninggao Phase 2, now had a 'sea train' running on it. From north to south, the Ninggao line, running parallel to Shijiu Lake Bridge, traces a slender S-shape like a floating silk ribbon, stringing together the lakeside scenery, fragrant flowers, earthy smells, bird songs – linking Nanjing’s urban area with the International Slow City in the most enchanting way. Ninggao Phase 2 is about 52 km long, extending south from Xiangyulunan Station on Airport S1 Line to Gaochun. It has six stations: Lukou New Town South, Tongshan, Shiqiu, Mingjue, Gaochun North, and Gaochun. After it opens, the fastest metro trip from Xiangyulunan Station to Gaochun takes about 30 minutes. This will surely be the most delightful, romantic countryside date on your weekend. Next time I’ll skip the self-drive and take the 'sea train' for a laid-back Gaochun trip to just zone out and enjoy the views.

Finally, I couldn’t resist stopping in the emergency lane.

I eagerly photographed the vast lake and the magnificent dragon-like bridge.

Standing by the bridge, I felt the strong wind off the lake and looked out over the expanse of Shijiu Lake. The far horizon held rolling clouds against the blue sky – high, empty, breathtaking. At that moment, driving felt like floating on the sea.

This road leads all the way to Gaochun; it’s not an expressway, so pedestrians and cyclists can also use Shijiu Lake Bridge to admire the beauty up close. Along the way we did spot a few cyclists. Cycling here, braving strong winds across the great lake in the vast landscape on a bridge over the water – the feeling must be extraordinary, amazing. I don’t have the stamina or skills for that. During the strictest period of the pandemic, when I couldn’t go anywhere, I took up cycling for exercise and fresh air on a small folding bike, covering eight or nine kilometers at a time. The feeling of riding was truly nice – speed and freedom, able to stop anytime to take photos. But I have to admire those who ride all day.

As we reached the southern end of the bridge, we could clearly see how the rail line was layered apart from the bridge. Such a brilliant design.

We continued driving after descending the bridge and missed the first turnaround; we had to go to the next one. All this was now Gaochun territory.

A scene straight out of a land of fish and rice.

We turned the car around and came to the southeast end of the bridge, back in Lishui.

Here we gazed at the vast lake where water met sky, misty and boundless. A large tree on the shore added charm to the seamless water-sky picture. Facing such a simple, clean view, I felt a desolate beauty, a faint sadness and ache while admiring it.

At the south end of the lake, the southeast point of the bridge, we saw the grand bridge we had just driven over. The bridge added a touch of dynamic beauty to this calm lake. Though just a bridge over a lake, it had the visual feel and experience of a sea bridge! We had just leisurely cruised at about 40–50 km/h across this 12-kilometer bridge, enjoying Shijiu Lake in that way.

Looking closely at the S9 rail line, it resembled a beautiful musical staff playing a magnificent movement on this land.

Here, whether driving, cycling, or riding the S9 train, you’ll be utterly captivated by everything around you.

When we left Zhao Village, we set our destination to 'Zhujia Ancient Village.' The village lies southeast of the lake. The route took us from the northern side of the bridge across to the south, then east along the southern shore. Leaving the bridge, I opened the car window; the lake glittered, and the wind carried the fresh scent of the lake into the car, cleansing the soul. The whole way was along the southern levee, with lake views all along – how beautiful, you’ll find out once you drive it.

At the southeast side of the bridge’s south end, a mountain shaped like a turtle floated quietly on the lake.

Along the way, ponds and polders crisscrossed. The blue of the lake merged with the blue of the sky in the distance – everywhere was scenery.

On this journey I deeply appreciated the feeling that the scenery was on the road.

Shijiu Lake gathers clear water, nourishing countless beings in Gaochun, Lishui, and Dangtu. Villages flickered in and out among the hills and lake, making nature even more touching.

The wetland vegetation was rich – aquatic, drought-tolerant, all luxuriant.

Near the villages, more and more people were fishing. I’ve never quite understood the joy of sitting quietly for hours, but such enthusiasts return day after day. Still, I can accept that everyone has their reasons – or no reason at all – for their passions.

On the two-lane embankment, one side was the vast lake and rich wetlands, the other side dazzling yellow flowers and green grass. The view was superb; the panoramic scenery outside the window was breathtaking.

From this angle, the southeast corner of the lake, the grand bridge looked like a long bamboo fence stretching across the water.

The village ahead was Wujiazui Village, part of Gaochun. Before this trip, I only paid attention to Shijiu Lake’s tourism resources in Lishui. While writing this travelogue later, I searched some information to enrich it and fill my knowledge gaps. Then I discovered Gaochun’s Shijiu Lake resources. Next time I must stop at Wujiazui.

Near the village, many fishing boats were moored in the shallows.

The boats returned through narrow waterways to rest and wait.

Lakes, shallows, marshes; embankments, pavilions, villages; a line of yellow rapeseed flowers added a unique beauty to the understated scene.

On the low hills of the embankment sat 'China’s No. 1 Shipbuilding Village' – Wujiazui, with its white-walled, blue-tiled houses.

Several lakeside villages nearby, blessed with deep-water shorelines, had developed prosperous shipbuilding and shipping industries, making them very affluent.

We passed through Wujiazui heading for Zhujia Village.

Address: Lishui District, Nanjing

Leaving the embankment, we entered village roads. Setting out from Putang Bridge, the whole way was accompanied by countryside scenery. The vast lake was always near, sometimes joined by winding streams, sometimes fields with spring blossoms. Water on one side, hills on the other – the road often became a natural dam separating the lake. Reeds swayed, rapeseed flowers danced, lush foliage between hills, white-walled, blue-tiled villages appeared and disappeared – every step brought a different, colorful scene.

Shijiu Lake merged with the sky in the distance, and open field scenery stretched nearby. This season’s golden rapeseed flowers interspersed in a beautiful natural painting – and we were traveling right through it.

Continuing toward the destination.

Small boats appeared and vanished among the lake and streams.

This village uniformly used red-tiled roofs, making the whole village more vibrant.

Still deeply enchanted, I couldn’t bear to look away. So I simply parked by the lane and got out to take deep breaths in this natural oxygen bar. My lungs filled with the scent of soil and grass. Fortunately, there were very few vehicles here, so I wasn’t causing any obstruction.

An old farmer heading home showed no fatigue, just calmness.

Approaching the village, there was a beautiful village tree. Most villages have a large, old tree at their entrance – this one was no exception.

Where the dirt road met the village road, we stopped again. The low hill in the distance was the legendary Fengqi Mountain. A row of tall trees stood like soldiers; lower down, rapeseed flowers, crops – layered neatly like a watercolor painting.

From this angle, the tall tree by the road had a striking shape, its branches spreading wildly – quite imposing.

Adding a figure to the same scene made the composition richer.

The rolling hills ahead, like a Bactrian camel, were Fengqi Mountain. Legend has it that a beautiful phoenix, admiring the beauty of Shijiu Lake, landed and perched on the mountain.

The crops in the fields were planted with an artistic touch.

A small boat rested quietly on the embankment.

I peeked at the boat through beautiful rapeseed flowers.

While we paused to take photos, villagers passing by chatted with us. 'Is it beautiful here?' We nodded vigorously. She then told us that if we went down this way to the mountain, the mountain-and-lake scenery there was even more stunning. We quickly asked if the dirt road was driveable, and she said yes, all the way to the lake for even better views.

So we carefully took the narrow dirt track that only allowed one car through, arriving at the foot of Fengqi Mountain by Shijiu Lake. Large vegetable plots stretched at the mountain base, with a few villagers busy at work.

Fengqi Mountain lies on the southern side of Shijiu Lake; its northern foothills reach into the lake. Here mountain and lake connect – scenery beautiful, charming, like a hidden paradise.

Fengqi Mountain is lovely, trees growing right up to the water. The grass below, with birds soaring, created a stunning picture.

Fengqi Mountain is as famous as Shijiu Lake; mentioning the lake without the mountain loses the poetry of lakes and hills. We strolled at the junction of mountain and lake, feeling utterly carefree.

No other tourists here, just a couple of villagers working their fields. We had this vast sky all to ourselves. The expansive view and dreamlike scenery enchanted me.

Beautiful Shijiu Lake rippled, water and sky blended. Copper Mountain lay quietly on the water.

A small wooden fishing boat on the lake; the fisherman was using his favorite method to fish.

Gentle water beside the hard stone embankment – a picture of strength and softness combined.

A white-walled, red-tiled house on the embankment stood out vividly among the greenery and blue.

Little yellow flowers in all the green, those red roof tiles on the embankment – such small splashes of color were so lively.

Villages nestled between mountain and lake, rows of houses, grassy flats with birds, ponds.

Could that be the Zhujia Village we were looking for?

I was so immersed I could barely leave. But no matter how beautiful, we had to go. I was very grateful to that villager for telling us about this quiet spot; without her guidance we would never have found this hidden place where mountain and lake meet.

Address: Lishui District, Nanjing

A concrete road between two ponds led us into the village.

Villagers washed and rinsed by the pond at the village entrance.

The small square had fitness equipment.

The village sits at the foot of Fengqi Mountain southeast of Shijiu Lake, nestled against the mountain and hugging the lake – a typical waterside fishing village. The village walls had murals rich in local flavor.

The murals showcased the beauty of a waterside fishing village.

Tucked away on one side of the square was a copper incense burner meant to bless descendants, placed unobtrusively.

Some new buildings in the village were modern and stylish. The old houses, with their gray-brick walls and varied eaves, stood harmoniously alongside new ones along the lake. It was a natural blend of old and new, a seamless fusion of heritage and innovation.

The pond in front of the village shimmered; wildflowers hugged the low wooden fences. I walked along the pond path toward the lake.

Near the north end of the village, close to Shijiu Lake, a shrine was under construction – the Wei Ancestral Hall. I was puzzled: hadn't I navigated to Zhujia Village? Why the Wei Ancestral Hall? I checked the map again: it turned out the Wei and Zhu families' villages were side by side near the lake.

Next to the ancestral hall was a small mountain deity temple. Ancestral halls and mountain deity temples are standard in such villages. A hall records a family’s history and witnesses its glory. With social changes, ancestral halls also change.

Standing on the Shijiu Lake embankment north of the village, the scene before me delighted me. Lake water and river water merged into one. Blue waters intertwined with grass green, fishing boats dotted the reflections in the water. A villager, seeing my overwhelmed, happy gaze, asked if it was my first visit. I gathered that those who’ve been to Shijiu Lake before come often. Sure enough, from our chat, I learned that Shijiu Lake fans return frequently to wait for its beautiful sunrises and sunsets, to see its four-season charm. I knew I’d become one of them too. The man was easygoing and even asked where in Nanjing we were from, reminding us that it was getting late, soon dark, time to head home, the return trip over an hour. We joked that such beauty, we hadn’t seen enough yet.

After chatting with the friendly villager, I dashed down the embankment, throwing myself into this beautiful painting.

On the path, a green electric scooter was parked. Sparsely dotted rapeseed flowers on the path and in the water turned the whole scene into a beautiful painting.

I got close to Shijiu Lake, listened to her whispers, touched her lively pulse.

Here, villagers’ houses were built right by the lake; every household’s fishing boat was moored, waiting for the owner’s work.

The gorgeous Fengqi Mountain and Shijiu Lake depend on each other – a place with mountains, water, and outstanding people.

Boats were moored in all sorts of positions.

Immersed in this, so peaceful, the wind ruffled my hair. At that moment, I became one with Shijiu Lake, like the grass by the shore, like the little boat, simply resting in nature’s embrace.

A pool of clear water, translucent, gathering the spiritual energy of heaven and earth. The reflections in the water, with their fresh brushstrokes, made you stop and linger, reluctant to leave.

The water was incredibly clear – the clear water held the reflection of white clouds from the blue sky.

Looking through the yellow rapeseed flowers, that splash of vibrant color transformed the scene into a giant watercolor painting.

Looking around, every frame was different, but all shared the same trait: 'beautiful and elegant.'

Not far away, he rowed toward the shore with steady, unhurried strokes.

I quietly watched him gracefully paddle! He gazed into the distance, undisturbed. The lake-blue water, like an endless prairie, slowly drifted backward under the gentle breeze. The whole scene was like watching a 3D landscape film in a cinema.

He passed by the rapeseed flowers growing in the water – a beautiful moment.

My eyes followed him until he moored his boat.

A dog happily led its master home, stopping to look at us. In the short time we’d been here, we’d chatted with several villagers, each time they initiated the conversation – a sign of the friendliness and happiness here. Even the dogs were friendly; I could tell from their eyes.

As they passed us, a man called out loudly, 'Is it beautiful here?' Such boldness made me answer loudly, 'Gorgeous.'

These sturdy men weren’t just admiring the scenery as we were; they were discussing and planning, surely figuring out the future here.

Without meaning to, I snapped a photo of a white bird. Shijiu Lake is home to many birds; we often saw them spreading their wings. Leisurely water birds frequently darted to the water’s surface to catch small fish and shrimp, but they moved too fast for my camera. This photo was pure luck.

A fisherman in a small boat, rowing lightly and drifting idly on the lake – that’s life.

Immersing myself in this beautiful scenery was also life. It was already about 5 p.m., near sunset, but since I dislike driving at night, I had to head back to the city before dark, unable to wait for the beautiful sunset by the lake. But I can imagine how romantic and perfect it is – you must come see it with a loved one!

Reluctant to tear my eyes from the lake, I suddenly turned back. Looking at the village on the shore, villagers’ new houses were built neatly and modernly along the embankment. Quiet and serene, in the distance came the barking of dogs and the laughter of children.

So close that from their homes they can clearly hear the waves of Shijiu Lake lapping the embankment. The sound of the waves changes with the seasons. By day, the fishermen go out on the lake to toil; when they return, their snores mingle with the lapping waves as they drift into dreams, enjoying the joy of a bountiful catch of fish, shrimp, and lake grass.

Clear waters and green mountains, charming scenery; orderly white houses with black-tiled roofs; bustling crowds and fishermen’s songs answering each other – a paradise on earth.

Village, fishing boats, fishing nets – a classic waterside fishing village scene.

Address: Lishui District, Nanjing

Since I only saw Wei Village but not Zhujia Village, I checked the map and navigated to Zhujia Village Market. Following that target, I finally found Zhujia Village. Wei and Zhu families’ villages nestle between Fengqi Mountain and Shijiu Lake, sitting close together as one.

Zhujia Village’s village regulations and folk agreements were posted on the wall.

In the village, new and old houses stood in orderly rows; winding alleys threaded around the houses.

The village was lush with greenery, birdsong, fragrant flowers, chickens and dogs heard, and thriving households. It’s a place perfect for sightseeing, relaxation, and spiritual retreat.

Zhujia Village has many stylishly designed guesthouses. Next time I’ll stay a few days, waiting by Shijiu Lake for sunrises and sunsets.

Because of time and knowing I’d return, with anticipation, I didn’t wander the village thoroughly. I set off on the return journey. Driving from the village alleys onto the embankment, I saw Zhujia’s iconic stone marker.

The beautiful country road offered ever-changing scenery.

I’d heard of Shijiu Lake long ago, but since the exceptionally beautiful Shijiu Lake Bridge was built, this route has been called Nanjing’s most scenic highway. Yet when I truly got close to this place, it still stunned my senses. Along this road, you encounter heart-stirring scenery all the way. When a place’s beauty surpasses your expectations, you harvest even more joy from the journey. Shijiu Lake is exactly such a place. And from the very first glance I knew it had depth, worth savoring again and again. I will return time after time – in different seasons, at sunset and sunrise – to experience its myriad charms and ever-changing grace. I will slowly explore every rim of Shijiu Lake, visiting villages along its shores in Lishui, Gaochun, and Ma’anshan, one by one. Admire the beautiful Shijiu Lake, and get to know the lovely people who live by it.