Nanjing Countryside Tour: Artistic Flair in Su Village

Travel time: March 2020

Mode: Self-driving

Route: Xiangban Sujia Creative Town – Zhumen Farmhouse – Zhishan Reservoir – Xujiayuan

Xiangban Sujia Creative Town

Address: Xiangban Sujia Creative Town, Shangzhuangyuan, Xibisu Road, Jiangning District, Nanjing

With the pandemic easing and work not yet resumed, I had time to venture beyond my usual haunts within Nanjing. It’s better to avoid crowded urban areas, so I opted for places that bridge city and countryside—rural landscapes with hills, water, and idyllic scenery. By chance, I stumbled upon a spot online called Xiangban Sujia Creative Town. The name alone told me this was my kind of place, so off I went.

Turn left off Ginkgo Lake Avenue onto Jiangning’s 24-kilometer Most Beautiful Countryside Loop. The road was wide with little traffic, flanked by pink peach blossoms and green willows, making for a delightful drive. I hit the gas and overshot the turn, then looped back. Right at the village entrance was this scenic road.

The entrance was modest and easy to miss. You had to show your Sukang health code to enter—no ticket needed. A blue glass house served as a temporary isolation room during the pandemic.

Stepping into the town, you see old houses subtly refurbished. The blue signboard at the entrance is rustic yet arty. On one side, a poster reads 'One person's star dream, a group's starry ideal.' The town is a distinctive village created by a bunch of bold young people, combining dining, creative culture, entertainment, leisure, and boutique homestays into one integrated destination.

Just inside the town on the right along West Xingtian Road is a row of fresh little creative shops. A neat white-walled, grey-tiled cottage, 'Muwu Tea Yard' (Wooden Dock Tea House), with its house and courtyard, looked quaint and peaceful. The gate was shut tight due to the pandemic.

Wooden latticework, wooden doors and windows accented the white walls, and the small yard was enclosed by a low wooden fence.

This simple white brick house with wooden window frames and floral touches had a sweet name—Mishi (Honey Time). A dessert shop, but sadly it was closed. Standing on the terrace, I gazed at the lush woods at the foot of the hill and snapped a selfie against the plain white wall. The place oozes a bourgeois charm; any corner yields a series of artsy photos.

On the left, atop a stone-piled mound, stood the Yunman Xiaozhu (Cloud Drifting Cottage) homestay.

Perched high up, it feels like strolling among the clouds.

Climbing the stone steps into the courtyard, you’re wrapped in a feeling of 'clouds drifting, breeze light, cottage serene'—a true rural sentiment. The large terrace in front is paved with irregular flagstones.

Wooden fences, natural wooden latticework, and colorful wall murals bring the 'in-the-clouds' homestay to life.

Inside the lobby, an L-shaped nook serves as a lounge. A pine cabinet stands against the wall, topped with a row of potted plants. In the middle of the room, a long table and a few chairs sit quietly. Large windows on both sides let the sun flood in.

Looking out at the courtyard, all was peaceful and lovely. Because of the pandemic, it was eerily quiet, with only one caretaker there. He was friendly and invited us to sit and look around.

From the courtyard of Yunman Xiaozhu, I looked down upon Muwu Tea Yard.

Next to Yunman Xiaozhu is a three-story homestay called Liangzhu (Good Bamboo) Homestay.

The signposts listing homestay after homestay made it clear: this is a cluster of lodging.

From the town map, I saw that Sujia Creative Town lies west of Bailu Lake, east of Ginkgo Lake, north of Longshan Reservoir, backed by Jiangsu Software Park—a 'half-city-half-country' zone. It’s hilly, ringed by mountains and water, with fertile fields, capturing the essence of western Jiangning’s landscape. Nearby are Huanglongxian Tea Culture Village, Shitang Renjia, Niushoushan Cultural Tourism Zone... The town has hills, lakes, a variety of nicely named homestays, Green Paradise, a water sports club, trendy cafes, restaurants...

This place is called the realization ground for star dreams, and the little road leading in is aptly named Xingtian Road (Star Field Road).

The portraits along the way depict the dreamers, the 'stars' of the town.

Walking along, pastoral scenery and country cottages blend harmoniously.

White clouds drift and morph across the blue sky, patches of rapeseed flowers dot the earth, and amid the green hills, two predominantly white homestays stand left and right—the whole scene like a gorgeous oil painting.

Homestays nestled in rural scenery

Most homestay buildings are white, with large, variously shaped windows. Those big windows let in abundant sunlight and offer better views.

Many homestays also have their own restaurants; this all-glass dining room is brilliantly transparent.

Cars line both sides of the village’s main road. I don’t get why—there’s a parking lot right at the entrance.

To the south of Xingtian Road is Green Paradise.

It’s enclosed by a bamboo fence. I didn’t rush in; I just stood by the fence, quietly taking in the beautiful scene and soaking up the tranquility.

A small pond, a glass house, a rapeseed field, a few peach blossoms—all serenely lovely.

A pair of colorful arched doors lead into the park. In spring, green lawns, yellow rapeseed flowers, and pink peach blossoms turn it into a world of color.

Right inside, round flower beds burst with rapeseed blooms, lighting up the whole park with their hue.

On an open patch, wooden frames form small vegetable plots with assorted veggies—a space created by parents and kids together.

This side is brimming with artistic flair. A house with an A-frame roof, entirely glass from the top down, looks like something out of a fairy tale.

I adore this crystal-clear glass house; I can’t get enough of it, circling around again and again.

The lower half is built of large stones. The stone, timber frame, and glass exude a raw, natural feel.

Inside, it’s a greenhouse: plant stands on both sides are lined with potted flowers and plants. Two benches double as plant stands and seating. Surrounded by lush greenery, fragrant plants, and gentle sunlight, you could sit alone, daydream, read a book, or gather a couple of friends for a chat or whispered conversations—pure bliss.

The all-glass roof floods the space with light, nourishing the plants.

Fragrant narcissus

Sunlight pours through the glass, untouched by wind or rain. In such a space, growing plants or tending flowers brings contentment.

Wandering around it, you feel like you're in an arthouse film.

I love this exquisite greenhouse so much that I even placed my 'Buda' on the bench for a photo with this lovely setting.

A small pond in front of the greenhouse, the red-brick, green-tiled Green Paradise nature classroom, and the rolling hills in the distance—everything before my eyes was so beautiful.

Outside the low fence east of the greenhouse are a few container houses. On the lawn in front, several girls were doing DIY projects.

They were seriously painting on tires. Actually, while walking around, I overheard that due to the pandemic, some people who came to Nanjing to visit relatives found it inconvenient to move around, so they’d been staying here since Chinese New Year. They were 'self-quarantining' in the homestays amid these hills and waters. One or several families spent a safe and quiet Spring Festival here together.

Green Paradise is a countryside fun park co-created by many experts, ideal for family play. Besides the gorgeous greenhouse, there are vegetable gardens, flower beds, a windmill, tall little houses, a portal, a suspension bridge, a wheel swing... It’s a unique children’s world full of charm. Due to the pandemic, there weren’t many visitors, so it felt intimate. But you can imagine that normally it’s a bustling family activity spot.

This pretty rainbow bridge can double as a prop for hide-and-seek.

In the parent-child park, kids and parents bond through cooperative games and tasks. In this quiet, relaxed setting, we rediscover childhood’s innocent joy. Children get close to nature and feel the countryside’s unique charm.

Uniquely shaped container houses dot the green lawn.

A little cutie on the lawn came running over at its owner’s call.

All the houses have panoramic glass doors and windows, brilliantly bright.

We walked south along a path of bluestone blocks.

Looking back, the homestays of Su Village rise tier upon tier.

Strolling along the bluestone path, the scenery becomes even more serene with wooded hills.

This path is also the town’s fitness trail.

A stream meanders at the foot of the hills.

The winding path of bluestone slabs along the field ridges runs beside the stream, which in turn follows the hills—harmonious and never lonely.

Returning to the town’s center, the road widens into a cobblestone path.

The stream leads to a lake—Bailu Lake. Verdant bamboo forests roam the hills; lake and mountain scenery is pleasing to the eye, a pure rural landscape.

Against blue sky and white clouds, amid the earthy ground and green, the yellow-grey container houses are perfectly proportioned in color and composition.

Trees are sprouting green, pink peach blossoms brim with spring; in the vast countryside, you can enjoy nature with mountain and lake views right outside your door. The tranquil atmosphere beckons people back to a pastoral life.

For those who can’t fully return, even stealing a few idle days here to plant vegetables, fish, or simply laze around facing the lake with hills behind—just daydreaming—is wonderful.

Sujia, beside Bailu Lake, was once an abandoned village. Now, it’s an artful mix of homestays, farmhouse restaurants, dessert shops, and the rich Green Paradise tucked away in lush woods.

This red-brick, green-tiled house is Green Paradise’s nature classroom. If not for the pandemic, it would be a gathering spot for parents and kids. Now it’s deserted, with cobwebs in hidden corners, lending a touch of lonely melancholy.

But I like it this way. Undisturbed, I quietly circled and studied it.

The semi-circular bench of red bricks and wooden planks must usually be packed with grown-ups and kids.

I leaned quietly against the red wall, gazing at the verdant bamboo grove on the hill in front, hearing the wind rustling through the leaves, watching them sway—so lovely.

The red-brick wall curving around a tree’s shape scores high on both artistry and practicality.

Sujia may be near the city, but it’s deep in thick woods with no traffic. Every brick, tile, flower, and tree carries rural grace and freshness.

A gravel path winds along the lake, keeping it company; the 'starting point' is right on the village road.

The natural scenery naturally draws fireflies; this is also a firefly conservation area.

From the lakeside trail, we returned to the village’s main road. To the south: ponds, lake, and distant mountains. To the north: an array of colorful houses in pleasing disarray.

This main road also has a starry name—Xingmeng Road (Star Dream Road).

’Half-price stay after the pandemic’—I’ll take that offer. I’ll pick a day, choose a homestay, and spend a night here. In the morning or evening, facing Bailu Lake in a bamboo-shaded courtyard, I’ll savor the quiet of the fields. At night, the chorus of frogs will instantly transport me back to childhood...

An interestingly shaped restaurant of blue-grey bricks, rustic yet stylish.

This transparent glass house combines Youguang Coffee and Baiyun Book Bar.

The American country-style Youguang Cafe shares its space with Baiyun Book Bar. Under a white A-frame roof, several large skylights let sunlight stream down. One side has a whimsical coffee bar, the other a bookshelf leaning gently against the wall.

A projector screen hangs on one wall. Imagine: come nightfall, sitting here with a cup of coffee, watching a classic film—pure pleasure.

Huge floor-to-ceiling windows always let the sunlight fall just right. Set by hills and water, the lakeside area is set off with different flooring. Wooden round and square tables, comfy sofas create a countryside retreat. One person with a warm coffee, flipping through a leisure book, looks up to a lake view—all sorts of feelings and nature flow from the heart. This place fulfills that long-held craving for rural living.

Immediately to the left of the entrance, potted plants are artfully arranged on a wooden flower rack.

On the right, a black iron rack is filled with creative cultural products.

Against a blue sky with drifting clouds, the white main building, blue creative zone door, blue stairs—the blue-and-white palette is clean and refreshing.

Dreamy Starry Sky Stairs

Climbing the Starry Sky Stairs up the hill, you pass unique homestays on both sides.

Reaching a large platform, there’s a courtyard enclosed by white walls and wooden stakes. The main building inside also has white wooden window frames—an eco-chic vibe.

This is 'Mountain Forest Joy,' a combo of homestay, cafe, and bar.

Well-placed, carefully arranged bonsai in the courtyard. The beauty of the homestay shines in every little detail.

A pink peach blossom stands out vibrantly in this white world.

Climbing further up the slope, the uniquely shaped homestays—mostly white—make me feel like I'm walking in the clouds.

The whitewashed brick-and-tile houses hide in the lush green. Amid the simple rustic charm, you sense every thoughtful detail and creative element.

Walking through Sujia Town, every rural dwelling is unique and just right. The charm of countryside plus creative culture—everything is so natural and creative, seemingly without repetition, yet enough for your heart to rest here freely.

The homestay designs here are all thoughtful, with lovely names. This tall, factory-like one is called Guangyin Li (In the River of Time).

The side facade is all glass, closely connected to nature.

Spacious terrace furnished with leisure tables and chairs; the sunshine is perfect. The warm sun creates a cozy harbor. Come here and give yourself a leisurely afternoon tea. Alone, enjoy quiet contemplation, or with girlfriends, chat over tea and catch up. No matter how busy life gets, remember to savor this moment of peace!

'Thinking about the unattainable, what can you do about life?' This is a line from a Jonathan Lee song. I’ve always loved Lee; his songs pour out life’s emotions. This homestay is named after one of his songs—Rensheng He·Shanju (Life, What... Mountain Dwelling).

From any angle, it’s a look I adore.

'Xuanshe (Daylily House) in the Milky Way,' a larger homestay with many rooms.

You can’t enter every homestay here, but even the exteriors are worth careful admiration. With admiration, walking along roads wide and narrow, appreciating each one, each step feels like entering a different realm.

White houses, and the road’s paving stones are also white—a scene of quiet elegance. I feel as if I'm right at the edge of clouds.

Floating in the clouds: the pandemic has left it sparsely peopled, adding a touch of ethereal mystery.

Eventually, I had to descend the Starry Sky Stairs back to the 'mortal world.'

'Wuluojian' (Mist Falling Room), a homestay with dining, lodging, birthday party, and multi-function meeting hall facilities.

The floor, paved with differently shaped stones, feels lively and rich. Stepping on this beautiful ground, I finally returned to 'earth.'

Back on Xingmeng Road. An all-glass café sits atop a stone wall. Here you can quietly read, indulge in nature, smell the flowers, feel the breeze—isn’t this the beauty of the moment? On a sunny day, sitting by the window, with luck you might spot white egrets flying over the lake.

In the village, not just walls and stairs but even the road itself bears lively, playful graffiti. Walking among beautiful drawings, time slows down. Whether with a loved one or strolling alone, the lovely village and pleasant sunshine thoroughly relax your body and mind.

Pushé Qingshui (Garden House Clearwater) homestay faces Bailu Lake. Built with stone and logs, it’s authentically rustic.

Step out and see lush green hills; a short walk brings you to the tranquil Bailu Lake view. This Peach Blossom Spring-like environment, returning to simplicity, is truly enjoyable.

Between hill and lake, ponds, flowers, wooden huts, and a covered boat are just right, setting off the tall bamboo in the mountains.

Ducks and geese on the lake create ripples in joyous commotion.

Bailu Lake—a fresh spot beyond the bustling city. Getting close, your soul is cleansed by the lake’s blue water and the nearby green woods. In this poetic, picturesque scenery, everyone wants to empty their mind and rediscover their original self.

At the far end of Sujia is a paradise for kayakers—a kayak club. Due to practical constraints, it’s not a widely accessible sport. Unexpectedly, there’s such a club here.

Paddling a kayak on Bailu Lake requires both courage and skill. Every time I see a kayak, I recall an amateur kayaker’s understanding: this sport has the highest degree of integration with nature. Yes, that’s the best explanation. When you’re on the lake, moving with your body, paddling with both oars, looking up at the sky and down at the water, person, boat, and nature become one.

Bailu Lake is expansive, ringed by hills, its water calm—ideal for this sport.

By Bailu Lake, the secret village of Sujia presents a scene of green hills and clear waters. It has a cluster of houses, surrounded by vegetation and close to water. Here, you can see mountains and gaze upon water—a blend of simple pastoral charm and modern creative elements.

A once unknown little town. It’s cozy, embraced by hills and woods, with homestays, bamboo groves, lakes, and fields. A group of young people built this dream town. They redesigned and renovated old, dilapidated houses into artistically rich restaurants, cafes, galleries, craft workshops, and specialty shops. The result is what we see today: a new rural creative town centered on unique homestay experiences, blending countryside creative culture, pastoral activities, and nature education.

If you don’t want to stray too far from the city’s bustle yet crave a quiet rural life, come to Nanjing’s Sujia Creative Town! Here, fields, forests, water, and dwellings are all there. This place is truly different—very artsy, very creative, yet still very rustic. I’ll come back to stay a night, pick a lakeside homestay, and experience pastoral living—falling asleep to frog songs at night, waking to bird chirps in the morning.