Traveling During the Pandemic in 2020: A Nanjing Trip with My Parents During the May Day Holiday
After the COVID-19 outbreak, travel plans had to be put on hold. As spring arrived and risk levels dropped everywhere, the urge to go out started stirring. The 2020 May Day holiday brought a rare five-day break, so I decided to take my parents on a short trip. At first, we considered Shenyang and Dalian. Flights and hotels were booked, tickets for scenic spots and museums reserved in advance, health codes applied for—everything was ready, and we just waited to set off.
However, plans couldn't keep up with changes. From mid-April, worrying news kept coming—imported cases were rising, the outbreak in Suifenhe was growing, and a cluster infection occurred in Harbin. Anxiety crept in. In particular, the high-speed train I had booked was canceled three times, and the flight was scrapped due to public safety concerns. Authorities also reminded the public to prevent a resurgence and be cautious while traveling. All this made me calm down and realize I shouldn't risk interprovincial travel.
So I played it safe and heeded the call to travel locally—mask on, staying safe.
I had already visited most cities within the province—Suzhou, Wuxi, Yangzhou, Xuzhou, Huai'an, Yancheng, and others. After thinking it over, among the tourist cities reachable from Nantong by high-speed train, Nanjing seemed a perfect fit. Mountains, waters, and history—great for both sightseeing and relaxation.
[Day 1] Nantong → Nanjing (by bullet train)
[Day 2] Nanjing Museum, Yuejiang Tower, Confucius Temple
[Day 3] Zhongshan Scenic Area (Linggu Temple, Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum, Meiling Palace, Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum)
[Day 4] Zhonghua Gate Castle, Presidential Palace, Nanjing → Nantong (by bullet train)
[Transportation] ¥690. Long-distance: bullet train ¥81.5 × 3 persons × 2 = ¥490; local transport (ride-hailing): ¥200 (big discounts during the holiday)
[Accommodation] ¥900 (family room for 3 nights)
[Food] ¥800
[Admission] ¥180 (state-run sites free for seniors over 70)
Total: ¥2,370
First meal in the provincial capital, we ate well.
【Nanjing Museum】
Nanjing Museum is China's first large-scale comprehensive museum built with national funding. As a first-grade national museum, it is arranged as "one museum with six halls":
History Hall: showcases the development of ancient civilization in the Jiangsu region;
Art Hall: displays art collections categorized by material;
Special Exhibition Hall: hosts themed exhibitions and imported shows;
Intangible Cultural Heritage Hall: presents national-level intangible cultural heritage items from Jiangsu;
Republic of China Hall: reconstructs Nanjing street scenes and social life from the Republican era;
Digital Hall: uses technology and interactive methods to display ancient civilizations.
The museum houses over 430,000 items (sets) including bronze, jade, ceramics, gold and silver ware, bamboo, wood, horn, lacquerware, silk embroidery, calligraphy, paintings, seals, stele carvings, and statues. National-treasure level artifacts include the Neolithic "Jade Pendant Ornament," the Warring States "Bronze Hu Vessel Inlaid with Gold and Silver" and "Ying Yuan" gold currency, the Western Han "Gold Beast," the Eastern Han "Seal of the King of Guangling" and "Bronze Ox Lamp with Silver Inlay," the "Gilt Bronze Inkstone Box Inlaid with Mythical Beast," the Western Jin "Celadon Zun Vessel with Mythical Beast," the Southern Dynasties molded brick relief "Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove and Rong Qiqi," and the Ming Dynasty "Underglaze Red 'Three Friends of Winter' Prunus Vase."
Human-bird-beast jade ornament and human-shaped jade ornament (Neolithic). The human-bird-beast jade piece was unearthed at the Zhaoling Mountain site in Zhangpu Town, Kunshan City. It was a mysterious symbol used by Liangzhu ancestors to communicate with heaven and display authority, dating back about 5,000 years. It is the earliest known openwork carving featuring human, bird, and beast motifs.
Beast-face pattern bracelet-shaped cong (Neolithic)
Dugout canoe (Spring and Autumn period)
Celadon zun vessel with mythical beast (Western Jin)
Molded brick relief "Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove and Rong Qiqi" (Southern Dynasties), one of the museum's treasures.
Bronze ox lamp with silver inlay (Eastern Han)
Jade burial suit sewn with gold wire (Han Dynasty), another treasure.
Sancai (three-color) glazed pottery double-fish vase (Tang Dynasty)
Ornamental piece "King Wen Visiting the Sage" (Yuan Dynasty)
Ruyi cloud-pattern gold plate (Yuan Dynasty)
Black lacquer rectangular box with gold-painted scene of reporting victory, made by Fang Ruchun (Ming Dynasty)
Glazed arched doorway from the Great Bao'en Temple Pagoda (Ming Dynasty)
Gold phoenix crown (Ming Dynasty)
Gilt-bronze clock with pavilion and figure striking the hour (Qing Dynasty)
Underglaze red "Three Friends of Winter" prunus vase (Ming Dynasty), another museum treasure. It even has its own exhibition hall, showing its extremely high status.
The vase is white with a bluish tint, its glaze fine and lustrous. The lid features peony motifs; the neck has banana-leaf patterns; below the shoulder are five bands of decoration (ruyi lappets, scrolling grass, interlocking chrysanthemums, sea waves, and stylized upturned lotus as auxiliary motifs). The main body is painted with pine, bamboo, and plum—the "Three Friends of Winter"—set off by lake rocks, camellias, and plantains. Underglaze red requires very demanding firing conditions and is technically difficult to master, so such pieces are extremely precious.
Some other famous items, like the Western Han gold beast, the "gold cicada on jade leaf," the Qing Dynasty doucai eight-auspicious-symbols large plate, the blue-and-white and polychrome twelve-flower-goddess cups, and Shen Shou embroidery portrait of Jesus, were not on display this time.
2020 is the Year of the Rat, so the museum organized a themed special exhibition.
Paper-cut "The Mouse Marries Off His Daughter"
Paper-cut "Abundant Harvests"
Zodiac pottery figurine with rat head and human body (late Tang), Yingqing funerary urn with twelve zodiac figures (Yuan)
Tibetan Buddhist bronze statue (Qing)
Yuejiang Tower stands on Lion Mountain by the Yangtze River in western Nanjing. Together with Prince Teng Pavilion in Nanchang, Yellow Crane Tower in Wuhan, and Yueyang Tower in Hunan, it is counted among the Four Great Towers of Jiangnan (though there is debate—for example, Xunyang Tower in Jiujiang or Misty Rain Tower in Jiaxing are sometimes included). What makes Yuejiang Tower special is that for six hundred years, it existed only in prose, not in reality. The tower was commissioned by Emperor Hongwu (Zhu Yuanzhang) of the Ming Dynasty in 1374. At that time, court officials were ordered to write essays titled "Record of Yuejiang Tower," but construction was suddenly halted after the foundation was leveled. Not until the 1990s, over 600 years later, did various circles in Nanjing decide to rebuild it, and it was finally completed in September 2001.
There are many theories about why construction stopped back then; those interested can look them up. History is full of mysteries—that's part of life's charm.
The tower has an L-shaped layout, with the main wing facing north and the secondary wing facing west; both wings offer views of the Yangtze. The main building sits at the corner where the two wings meet, rising seven stories (four outside, three inside), 51 meters in total height. During the pandemic, to prevent crowding, the interior was closed, so some special features couldn't be seen—like the famous chair, wall, and plaque on the ground floor; the portraits of 16 emperors on the second floor; the boat and painting on the third; and the dragon caisson ceiling on the top floor, especially the massive porcelain mural from Jingdezhen depicting Zheng He's voyages to the Western Seas.
No need for regrets, though. The towering trees, ancient city walls, and varied stone lions were satisfying enough.
There are elevators from both the east and south gates to the summit, but they were closed to the public during the outbreak.
The "mythical beasts" on the railings look incredibly lifelike. In total, the scenic area has 659 such stone lions, creating a unique sight known as "Lions Frolicking on Lion Ridge."
This view matches perfectly with the inscription on the memorial archway: "Surveying the River and Enjoying the Scenery"!
Distant view of the Nanjing Yangtze River Bridge
The river on the left, mountains on the right—a wonderful place, away from the hubbub yet still close to the city.
One detail worth complaining about: if you use navigation to find the Yuejiang Tower Visitor Service Center, it leads you to the south gate. There, a notice awaits: "South gate closed during the pandemic; please enter from the southeast gate." The southeast gate is 800 meters away—doesn't sound far, but you have to climb steps. In 33°C heat, that's a test for the elderly. If the scenic area had informed visitors in advance on ticketing platforms, it would have been perfect.
A trip to Nanjing is unthinkable without visiting Confucius Temple. We couldn't avoid it either and came to have a look.
Confucius Temple is a grand ancient architectural complex consisting mainly of the Confucian Temple, the Imperial Academy, and the Examination Hall. It is renowned as a scenic spot along the Qinhuai River and a signature attraction of ancient Nanjing. Because the Imperial Examination Museum was closed and Qinhuai River night cruises stopped selling same-day tickets after 4 p.m., we only strolled around for a little over an hour, then waited for nightfall to enjoy the "sound of oars and lamplight shadows on the Qinhuai."
Management was strict: we had to show health codes, ID cards, have our temperatures taken, and patrols constantly checked that masks were worn. Yet there were still many visitors. Recalling Shanghai Huashan Hospital's Director Zhang Wenhong's warning—"In tourist areas, the most dangerous places are dining spots"—we didn't dare eat inside the scenic area.
Wild grasses and flowers beside the Zhuque Bridge, the setting sun at the entrance to Wuyi Lane. The swallows that once nested in the halls of the Wang and Xie clans now fly into the homes of ordinary people.
The Imperial Examination Museum of China, the country's only underground museum, was unfortunately closed. Next time, then.
Only boats and lamplight shadows—no sound of oars...
【Zhongshan Scenic Area】
Zhongshan Scenic Area is a collective name that includes Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum, Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum, Linggu Temple, Meiling Palace, Plum Blossom Hill, and other sites. Except for Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum, which is free, all others charge admission. A combo ticket is available and cheaper than buying separately.
Since each site is independent and far apart, transportation is a concern. The sightseeing bus one-way ticket is ¥10 per person, and a day pass with unlimited rides is ¥50 per person. Specific routes are shown below. I thought, why not just take a taxi instead of buying a bus ticket? But on holidays, roads like Lingyuan Road around the scenic area were so congested that ride-hailing drivers generally refused to come, and even if they did, you'd wait about half an hour. Taxis were plentiful, though—they'd take you for ¥10, but that was per person, ¥10 per head. That left a deep impression, so I'm mentioning it here as a heads-up.
First stop: Linggu Temple Scenic Area.
Linggu Temple Scenic Area features the tomb pagoda of the Liang Dynasty monk Baozhi, the Ming Dynasty Wanjiao Pool, the Wuliang Hall (the largest beamless hall existing in China), the Songfeng Pavilion, and other historic sites. Linggu Temple itself was originally named Kaishan Temple, founded by Emperor Wu of the Liang Dynasty to honor the eminent monk Baozhi. Later, Ming Emperor Hongwu gave it the name "Linggu Chan Temple." During the Republican era, a cemetery for fallen soldiers was built here, adding structures like the main gate, memorial archway, and Linggu Pagoda.
Wanjiao Pool. Its name comes from the tens of thousands of laborers who dug it.
Memorial archway for fallen soldiers, inscribed with "Great Benevolence and Righteousness" on the front and "Save the Nation, Save the People" on the back.
The lintel is decorated with a porcelain KMT party emblem, and in front of the archway stands a pair of pixiu (mythical beasts).
Tortoise-borne stele, also called bixi or baxia, a type of auspicious animal.
Wuliang Hall was originally named Wuliang Hall (Hall of the Immeasurable Buddha) because it enshrined the Amitabha Buddha. Completed in the early Ming Dynasty, the hall—from foundation to roof—was built entirely from giant bricks, without a single piece of wood or nail, hence the common name Wuliang (Beamless) Hall. In 1928, the Nationalist government converted it into a memorial shrine for fallen soldiers.
Names of 33,224 fallen soldiers are carved on the walls.
Songfeng Pavilion originally served as the Memorial Hall for the National Revolutionary Army's fallen soldiers. Damaged during the War of Resistance, it was renamed Songfeng Pavilion after liberation.
Linggu Pagoda is the tallest nine-story octagonal pagoda in the Nanjing area, standing 60 meters high. Completed in 1933, it is a reinforced concrete structure. At the time, it was called the National Revolutionary Army Fallen Soldiers Memorial Pagoda, commonly known as the Nine-Story Pagoda.
The first floor exterior bears the four large characters "Serve the Country with Utmost Loyalty" handwritten by Chiang Kai-shek. On the eastern and western lintels are inscribed seal-script phrases "Success" and "Sacrifice."
A spiral staircase inside leads up through 252 steps to the top of the pagoda.
Each floor inside has four doors and four steles. The 12 steles on floors two, three, and four are engraved with the full text of "Premier Sun's Farewell Address at the Whampoa Military Academy Before His Northern Journey" from March 1924, in the cursive script of Yu Youren. The 16 steles on floors five, six, seven, and eight are inscribed with "Premier Sun's Opening Lecture at the Whampoa Military Academy" from April of the same year, in the small seal script of Wu Zhihui. All 28 steles were carved by Tang Zhongfang from Wu County, Suzhou.
A panoramic view of the lush Zhongshan forest.
Baogong Pagoda and the Three-Rarity Stele. The pagoda was built by Emperor Wu of the Liang Dynasty to house the relics of Monk Baozhi (who is the prototype for the familiar modern character Ji Gong). In front of the pagoda is a black stele featuring a portrait of Baozhi by the great Tang painter Wu Daozi, a eulogy by the great poet Li Bai, and calligraphy by the great calligrapher Yan Zhenqing—hence the name "Three-Rarity Stele of the Tang Sages." Damaged by war, it was recarved in the Northern Song and again for a third time in the Qing Dynasty, with Emperor Qianlong's handwriting "Pure Land Guide" added at the top.
To see the details, I found a picture online; the characters and image are faintly discernible.
"Flying Scissors"—research suggests it was an ancient tool for hoisting building materials to heights, similar to a modern crane.
Under the green shade, among the mossy stones, how many traces of history, wreckage of war, and dusty old tales lie hidden? Before visiting, I thought this was just an ordinary Buddhist temple. Now I realize how ignorant I was.
Today was really hot, with a high of 34°C. Reports said places like Zhengzhou hit over 40°C, and it's only May.
Next stop: Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum.
Ming Xiaoling is the joint tomb of Emperor Hongwu (Zhu Yuanzhang) and his empress. Because the empress was posthumously named "Empress of Filial Piety and Compassion" and the dynasty ruled with filial piety, it was called "Xiaoling" (Filial Tomb). Construction began in 1381 and was completed in 1405, requiring 100,000 laborers over 25 years.
The layout is divided into two parts: the Spirit Way, guiding from the Dismounting Archway to the main gate of the tomb, and the main tomb structures, from the main gate to the Treasure City, Ming Tower, and the tomb mound.
The square city, Ming Tower, Treasure City, Treasure Mound, Spirit Way, and stone animal path—all are surviving Ming Dynasty structures, preserving the original architectural authenticity and spatial layout.
Ming Xiaoling represents the pinnacle of early Ming architecture and stone carving, directly influencing the design of over 20 imperial tombs over 500 years of the Ming and Qing dynasties. Known as the "First Imperial Tomb of the Ming and Qing Dynasties," it holds special status in Chinese imperial tomb history. It was designated a National Key Cultural Relic Protection Unit in 1961, a National Key Scenic Area in 1982, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003, and one of the first batch of national 5A tourist attractions in 2006.
The stele inscribed "Governance Surpassing Tang and Song" and the tortoise supporting it. Emperor Kangxi inscribed this during his third southern tour in 1699, praising the Ming Dynasty for surpassing the Tang and Song in governance and construction, expressing admiration for Zhu Yuanzhang. Historical records say Kangxi toured south six times and paid homage at Ming Xiaoling five times, performing the ritual of three kneelings and nine kowtows.
Inside the archway, a tunnel-like path of 54 stone steps winds upward to the Ming Tower.
On the stone wall facing the Treasure City is carved "This is the tomb of Ming Taizu"—reportedly done in the early Republican era.
Dancing pavilions and singing stages, heroes and glory—all washed away by wind and rain.
Wengzhong Road, the Spirit Way, is lined with two pairs of military generals and two pairs of civil officials in sequence.
Shixiang Road, the Elephant Road, is flanked by six kinds of mythical beasts: lions, xiezhi, camels, elephants, qilin, and horses.
Third stop: Meiling Palace.
Meiling Palace's official name was the Residence of the Chairman of the National Government. Construction began in 1931 as the official residence of the National Government Chairman, later used as a lounge for senior officials paying respects at Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum. After the government returned to Nanjing in 1946, Chiang Kai-shek and Soong Mei-ling often stayed here for worship and rest, hence the name "Meiling Palace." Chiang also received foreign dignitaries here several times.
Built against the hillside, this three-story, double-eaved palatial structure follows official Ming and Qing styles, with a green glazed tile roof. In 1991, it was listed as an Outstanding Modern Chinese Building and in 2001 as a National Key Cultural Relic Protection Unit.
The site covers 2,000 square meters—not large—and a tour of the three floors takes about an hour. The main draw is the architecture, a blend of Chinese and Western styles that is refined and elegant, along with a glimpse into how the villa's former residents lived.
An automobile from the Republican era
Besides her well-known political role, Soong Mei-ling was also a painter.
"Yizu School" stands for "Nanjing National Revolutionary Army Orphans' School," established to educate children of soldiers who died in the Northern Expedition and martyrs of the Xinhai Revolution. The school moved to the Zhongshan Mausoleum area in 1929.
There was once a "beautiful misunderstanding" about Meiling Palace. Someone noticed that from above, the palace looks like a gemstone at the end of a necklace, sparking rumors that Chiang Kai-shek gave it to Soong Mei-ling as a "birthday gift." But historical records say Meiling Palace was originally built as a residence for National Government Chairman Lin Sen. Only more than a decade later did Chiang and Soong temporarily stay there. The so-called necklace, gemstone, and gift were not intentional design elements. The rows of plane trees that form the necklace shape weren't planted at the same time either. Perhaps dry historical facts need a touch of romantic legend as seasoning.
Last stop in Zhongshan Scenic Area: Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum.
Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum is the tomb of Dr. Sun Yat-sen, the forerunner of the democratic revolution. Construction began in January 1926, the main structures were completed in the spring of 1929, and the internment ceremony was held on June 1, 1929. Work continued, and the whole project was finished by the end of 1931. Major structures include a memorial archway, the mausoleum gate, a stele pavilion, the sacrificial hall, and the tomb chamber. The layout is symmetrical along a central axis. From the archway to the chamber, the horizontal distance is 700 meters, with a 70-meter height difference, 392 stone steps, and 10 platforms. The entire structure is built of white granite and reinforced concrete, covered with blue-glazed tiles.
The memorial archway bears the inscription "Fraternity" in Sun Yat-sen's handwriting.
Mausoleum gate, inscribed with "The World Belongs to All" in Sun's hand.
Stele pavilion: the three lines of gold cursive characters on the stele were written by Tan Yankai.
The 392 steps are said to represent China's 392 million people at the time. The staircase is cleverly designed: looking up from below, you only see steps, not platforms; looking down from above, you only see platforms, not steps.
The scenic area is shaded by trees, but the steps lack any sun cover—sun protection is a must on scorching days.
The sacrificial hall. Above the lintel are inscriptions in Sun Yat-sen's hand: "Righteousness of Heaven and Earth" and in Zhang Jingjiang's calligraphy: "Nationalism," "People's Rights," "People's Livelihood." In the center of the main hall sits a full-body statue of Dr. Sun in a long gown and mandarin jacket. The east and west walls are engraved with the full text of his "Fundamentals of National Reconstruction." The ceiling features a KMT emblem. Photography and videography are prohibited inside.
There is an auxiliary structure in the scenic area: the Music Pavilion, used mainly for music performances and gatherings to commemorate Dr. Sun Yat-sen. Its overall layout is a semi-circular fan shape, with the stage at the center and flower-covered colonnades around it.
After its completion, the Music Pavilion hosted many large-scale song and dance events. For example, in November 1947, the Xinjiang Youth Song and Dance Troupe performed here. In the 1960s, the Sino-Japanese Youth Friendship Gathering was held here. In May 1995, CCTV and the Jiangsu Provincial Song and Dance Ensemble jointly held the "Famous Melodies for a Cool Summer" concert. Since 2015, it has repeatedly hosted the Nanjing Forest Music Festival.
Pigeons seem to have become the masters here.
The long wooden walkway is a nice, user-friendly touch.
【Zhonghua Gate Castle】
Zhonghua Gate is one of the thirteen original gates of the Nanjing Ming City Wall, built between 1369 and 1375. At 128 meters deep north to south and 118.45 meters wide east to west, it is the best-preserved, most complex, and largest barbican fortress in the world, earning the title "Number One Barbican Under Heaven."
Many parts of the Nanjing Ming City Wall are free, but Zhonghua Gate charges admission. After visiting, I felt it was worth it—the fee makes sense. Here, you can touch ancient wall bricks and make rubbings yourself; contemplate the military defense mechanisms like the "Thousand-Jin Gate" and "soldier-hiding caves"; and broaden your knowledge through exhibitions like the "Zhonghua Gate Exhibition," "Nanjing City Wall Brick Exhibition," and "European Ancient Cities Tour."
There are many stories about the Ming City Wall, and the bricks contain a wealth of information—about construction materials and methods, drainage and disaster prevention, and brick inscriptions.
The Glazed Pagoda of the Great Bao'en Temple
The Presidential Palace in Nanjing has a history spanning over 600 years. In the early Ming Dynasty, it was the Guide Marquis Residence and the Han Prince's Residence. During the Qing Dynasty, it housed the Jiangnan Viceroy's Office, the Liangjiang Viceroy's Office, and part of the Jiangning Imperial Silk Weaving Bureau. Under the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom, a grand Heavenly Palace was built here. Later, Zeng Guofan rebuilt the Liangjiang Viceroy's Office. On January 1, 1912, Sun Yat-sen was sworn in here as the Provisional President of the Republic of China. In 1927, it became the office of the National Government. After the War of Resistance, it remained the office of the National Government and the Presidential Palace. On April 23, 1949, Nanjing was liberated, and the People's Liberation Army occupied the Presidential Palace the next morning. After 1949, it served as government offices for many years. In 1998, the Jiangsu provincial government decided to establish the China Modern History Museum on the Presidential Palace site. After years of development, it reached its present scale.
The scenic area is divided into three visiting zones: the central zone mainly includes the buildings of the National Government and Presidential Palace; the western zone contains Sun Yat-sen's Provisional Presidential Office, the Secretariat, the West Garden, Sun's living quarters, and the General Staff Headquarters; the eastern zone mainly features the Executive Yuan, the Tao and Lin Ancestral Hall, the stables, and the East Garden. Within these three zones, over ten historical and restoration exhibitions are scattered, covering the Presidential Palace, Sun Yat-sen and the Nanjing Provisional Government, the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom, the Qing Liangjiang Viceroy's Office, and more.
The main highlights are modern Chinese and Western architectural heritage, historical artifacts, and landscaped gardens. Those not interested in history can complete a visit in one or two hours. Due to the pandemic, some areas were closed this time, so we just skimmed through—about an hour and a half. Like Meiling Palace and Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum, it offered a brief glimpse of the Republican era.
Zichao Building (named after Lin Sen, courtesy name Zichao)
The reception hall, blending Chinese and Western styles with restrained elegance—let's take a photo.
The historical exhibition hall of the Qing Liangjiang Viceroy's Office
Xuyuan Garden, also known as the West Garden, is a classic Jiangnan-style garden featuring a stone boat, Xijia Pavilion, Wangfei Pavilion, Yilan Pavilion, Yinxinshiwu, and other sights.
The Nanjing trip ended smoothly. Filled with good food, we headed home.
Keep wearing masks, showing health codes, taking temperatures... Traveling during the pandemic is no easy feat.
