A Nanjing Local’s View of Nanjing: A Leisurely Stroll in Gaochun Slow City
Travel date: April 2020
Route: Lvjia Village in Gaochun Slow City — Shiweiqiang Village — Dashanxia Village — Qiqiao Ancient Village
Mode of travel: self-driving
Gaochun Slow City – Lvjia Village
Address: Lvjia Village, Yaxi Town, Gaochun District, Nanjing
Just two days before returning to work. I wanted to seize the tail end of the holiday and set off for Gaochun. A while ago, while wandering around Shijiu Lake, I thought about visiting Gaochun next time. I had visited Gaochun sporadically before. I remember the first time was ten years ago during a parent-child activity for my child’s class. We went to the Slow City in the northeastern part of Gaochun District; back then, its development had just begun. In November 2010, the 'Yaxi Eco-tour' in Gaochun District was officially recognized as 'China’s First International Slow City' by the International Slow City Alliance. 'International Slow City, tranquil Gaochun' is the goal. Now the concept of slow city is deeply rooted, and the construction scale is expanding. Though I’d been here, I was still unfamiliar. I simply entered 'Gaochun International Slow City' as the destination and set off. Turning from Provincial Highway 204 onto Laoya Road, the whole way was beautiful pastoral scenery of the slow city. We obediently followed the navigation to the parking lot by the large lawn in Lvjia Village and parked neatly.
Everywhere was green: green rapeseed pods, green ponds, green bamboo groves, green pine trees – green, green, green... Amidst the green were pink azaleas. Azaleas are a beautiful memory from my childhood. In those days, everything was natural, flowers were wild; the hillsides blanketed with azaleas in April and May are a childhood memory. Gaochun Yaxi International Slow City boasts over 10,000 mu of high-quality rapeseed flower fields, grand and imposing. Every late March, the International Golden Flower Festival is held here. Today is April 12th, we perfectly missed its most brilliant season. But I don’t feel a trace of regret. Seeing the fields bearing fruit – rapeseed pods – is also a taste of a bountiful harvest, right?
Since it’s already an International Slow City, the overall environment here is tastefully designed. The ever-green Lvjia Great Lawn is a great place for visitors to relax and play, and also perfect for picnicking and camping. On a sunny weekend, nothing beats going outdoors to appreciate the beauty of the scenery, strolling with family and friends, and awakening to the beauty of the fields together. The spacious Lvjia Lawn is lush and green. On the lawn stands a giant grass snail sculpture, symbolizing the 'slow theme' melody of the slow city. Giant grass insect sculptures look vivid and amusing. The Lvjia Lawn is surrounded by a pond of clear water. On the other side of the water is Peach Blossom Fan Square. The annual opening ceremony of the International Slow City Golden Flower Tourism Festival is held at this square. The vegetation is rich and layered. Reeds sway by the water, rows of camphor trees line the low hills, and pink peach blossoms dot the rippling green.
Rapeseed flowers generally have a blooming period of about half a month; after each blossom withers, it forms many rapeseed pods, which can be pressed for oil. The blue bricks and green tiles of Lvjia Village are hidden among the vast expanse of rapeseed pods, evoking the pastoral poetry of Meng Haoran. Half a month ago, this was a field of golden flowers and green leaves. Imagine: golden rapeseed flowers, green roadside trees, white-walled cottages with blue-gray tiles – layered and colorful, inspiring reverie. Now, the faded gold is replaced by green pods, creating a different kind of understated beauty. Five or six young ladies were posing for photos. The road is tidy, with roadside trees lined up on both sides. On one side of them is a large green lawn, and on the other, a sea of rapeseed fields. The continuous rapeseed fields around Lvjia Village. Doesn’t it feel like the vastness of an ocean? Does it feel like being on an island in a vast sea? The blooming season has passed; occasionally a few stray rapeseed flowers can be seen. The gentle breeze ripples, the earth dances, causing the green sea of rapeseed to roll wave after wave, each a song, refreshing the heart and soul.
Narrow paths wind through the fields. Following them, I get close to the crops. The lush green on both sides instantly soothes the eyes, so verdant. The sun is warm but not scorching; a gust of wind brings a coolness, instantly refreshing! The rapeseed plants here are taller than a person; when I approach, my small frame is engulfed. Now the flowers have faded, and the stalks are laden with fat green pods, so full they look about to burst. Did the wind knock them to the ground, or did their own weight make them naturally lie flat? On the big lawn, joyful crowds gather. As the pandemic eases, more and more people head outdoors. A red electric car stands quietly on the green lawn; the whole scene exudes warmth.
The slow city is really huge; walking on foot is quite strenuous. Fortunately, there are tourist buses within the scenic area. The yellow and white minibuses driving through the sea of green are a bright scenic sight themselves. On one side of the vehicle road, a fitness trail is marked in red. There are walking paths, bike lanes, electric cart lanes, and regular roads, catering to different needs. Which path will you choose to experience the slow city? You can tell from the road signs that the slow city is rich in content! A panoramic map; after seeing it, you realize how big it is – one day is not enough. We can only hastily visit a few villages as originally planned. We gaze at the glass walkway in the distance. We’re not that interested in canopy walks or jungle treks; we just want to come to a quiet, open place where we can take off our masks and breathe freely. So we didn’t move on but lingered in the pastoral fields, catching a wisp of spring breeze. With rich colors, the fragrance of blooming wildflowers, and the clear calls of birds in our ears, time seemed to stretch.
In the vast expanse, the rapeseed flowers have faded, shedding their yellow skirts, but the large fields resemble a green ocean, uniquely beautiful under the sunlight. Layer upon layer, stretching endlessly, an ocean without horizon. Imagine coming here half a month ago: a spectacular golden floral wave. The unique fragrance of rapeseed flowers would make butterflies dance and cause you to lose your way. Listen quietly: the green waves rustle with the warm breeze. The fields belong to the rapeseed now; the flowers are gone, but layers of vivid green overlap in an orderly array. The green everywhere can be distinguished into light green, dark green, and ink-green shades. The boundless rapeseed fields, the pure blue sky and green earth, the limpid pond water, together with the white walls of village homes, weave a beautiful April picture.
Following the field paths, we walked toward the village. The tall rapeseed stalks sway in the wind, leaning on each other, jostling and crowding, making a swishing sound in the warm breeze, heralding a bountiful harvest of rapeseed. A leisurely angler by the pond in front of the village. Mountains, water, fields, and cottages in harmonious coexistence – this is the theme of the 'International Slow City'. The view from the village is so bright and clear. Nearby cottages and ponds, distant willows and rapeseed fields – the near and far set each other off, weaving a splendid scroll painting of Jiangnan, pleasing to the eye and intoxicating. From the fields, we came to the food street in Lvjia Village. The street was lively with one food stall after another. We fetched the car here and hit the road again.
Gaochun Slow City – Shiweiqiang Village
Address: Shiweiqiang Village, Lanxi, Yaxi Town, Gaochun District, Nanjing
This beautiful road is the Slow City Route in Gaochun, the main artery. The scenery along it is naturally formed, rustic and elegant, fully showcasing Yaxi’s unique ecological character. The road winds along the mountain contours with graceful curves. Please slow down at bends. Since you’ve come to the slow city, truly experience the 'slow' feeling; don’t rush, don’t hurry. Another bend, and the beautiful scenery made us stop and pause. On the right side of the road, rows of maple trees form a forest. Now the maples aren’t fiery red; only tender buds in light yellowish-green have emerged. The ground is covered in stripes of yellow-green, like a striped carpet – this is the fresh look of the Maple Color Garden in spring. Imagine: every year from November to early December, this becomes a fiery red ocean, drawing photography enthusiasts from all over to capture the intoxicating maple scenery. Perhaps I, too, will come for this forest in late autumn. On the left, at the foot of the hill, lies a small tea garden. Is this the time for picking new tea leaves?
The view from this angle is rich. On a nearby hill stands a Wenfeng Pagoda; at its foot, a village with neat white walls and black tiles. Spring is green everywhere, dotted with pink peach blossoms and yellow rapeseed flowers, like a delicate watercolor painting. I stayed quietly at this bend for a while. I watched the pink peach blossoms embellish the lush greenery, the tea garden relaxed and full of charm. Taking a deep breath, the highly negative-ionized air, carrying the fresh scent of soil, rushed to my face. Inhaling the fresh air here washed my lungs, and my mind became much clearer.
A few miles further, we arrived at Shiweiqiang Village in the northwest of Yaxi Town. The village blends mountains and water, looking fresh and beautiful. Shiweiqiang is one of Nanjing’s first 'Water Beauty Villages'. The village is clean and, due to the pandemic, seems very quiet and deserted. Tidy, well-arranged cottages, many of which have become agritainment businesses. A signboard by the village road tells us about the agritainment in the village. A map shows the specific locations of the farm stays. Shiweiqiang Village has a reservoir – Dashan Reservoir. Below the reservoir is a marshland with a long wooden boardwalk. Walking on the bridge, you’re immersed in beautiful nature, leisurely and content. The pond full of withered lotus leaves evokes a tender pity. Hidden deep in the mountains, facing hills and water, Shiweiqiang is truly a paradise. Imagine sitting by a lotus-filled pond in summer, sipping coffee and emptying your mind, or meditating to open emotional barriers. Don’t you yearn for such a pace, such a life?
Leaving Shiweiqiang, we drove on Qingshen Road – a road with a beautiful name – toward the nearby Dashanxia Village.
Gaochun Slow City – Dashanxia Village
Address: Dashanxia Village, Lanxi, Yaxi Town, Gaochun District, Nanjing
Driving on the village road, everything is clean and tidy. The Huizhou-style cottages complement the greenery, simple yet lively. The village’s main business feature is also agritainment. The number of such establishments shows how bustling it once was. Due to the pandemic, there are hardly any tourists now, quiet and desolate. But I like this atmosphere. The village’s plain, simple look is its true face without makeup. No tourists, occasionally a villager passes by. Here, it’s pure, rustic, and natural.
Under the light clouds and gentle breeze, a natural oxygen bar, free from worldly pollution. The mountain glow and water hues are like a scroll casually unfurled by nature; every stroke of appropriate thickness, every artful blank space, is just right, and time retreats beyond the picture. The Wenfeng Pagoda atop the hill is the highest point of Yaxi International Slow City, an octagonal seven-story pavilion in the Tang style. It echoes the beautiful skyline of the slow city, towering and graceful. From many spots in the slow city, you can look up and see this iconic pagoda, a classic view. The village is named 'Dashanxia' (Below the Big Mountain) because of this hill. Wispy clouds, like soft ribbons, linger around the green waves. Amid the green of wheat and rapeseed fields, the pink-walled, black-tiled cottages stand.
Coming to Gaochun this spring, you don’t need to search deliberately. Everywhere is a Peach Blossom Spring with 'flat open land, orderly houses... crisscross paths, and the sounds of chickens and dogs.' There’s no heavy traffic here; we quietly watch clouds drift and unfold. Slow down, let the beautiful moments last a little longer, and longer. At the village entrance, looking at the main road, the depth evokes endless imagination. Doesn’t it have the charm of 'Green trees encircle the village, blue hills slope beyond the outer wall. Picking chrysanthemums by the eastern fence, I gaze serenely upon the southern mountain'?
We stopped here. This is not the most beautiful season in Gaochun Slow City, but there are flowering fields in all four seasons; there’s no such thing as the most beautiful – actually, every season has its scenery. For me, everything here is just right. The green is just right, so pure; the tranquility is just right, quiet enough to return your heart to simplicity; the slowness is just right, unhurried and undisturbed... This road leads us back to real life. For people our age, we still have to keep driving on the road, but a momentary pause can give our hearts peace; that’s enough.
Today we only roamed a small part of the slow city. Gaochun International Slow City lies at the eastern foot of Youzi Mountain National Forest Park, covering 50 square kilometers. It boasts an ecological golden ratio of three parts mountains, two parts water, and five parts farmland – an agricultural tourism zone integrating sightseeing, leisure, and eco-agriculture by combining hilly ecological resources. The 48-km 'Eco-tour' scenic belt winds north to south, twisting through six administrative villages. So, to walk slowly and look carefully takes quite some time. Anyway, I’m not far away; when I have time, I’ll come back to stroll slowly and observe in detail!
