Encountering Jinling · Lingering in the Qinhuai Nightscape

📍 Nanjing · 👁 1 reads · ❤️ 71 likes

"In the season of sycamore rain, the ancient city walls recount the tales of the Six Dynasties ancient capital and Republican-era past.

The dust of bygone days has drifted away with wind and rain; the scroll of history seems but a dreamy haze.

What cannot be untangled is the love and hate, joy and sorrow in Dream of the Red Chamber.

Through time and space, the old stories of the ancient city have blended into urban charm."

Time reshapes a city’s face. High-rises tower, traffic streams, the sycamore avenues stretch deep and serene; from grand courtyards drift strains of Kunqu opera. By night, neon lights set Jinling aglow in a kaleidoscope of colors.

Following the traces of history, returning to the gentle land south of the Yangtze, my impression of Nanjing is the pavilions and courtyards of Dream of the Red Chamber, the timeless masterpieces of literati, the profound weight and deep affection of history.

Time has left countless imprints on Nanjing—prosperity and decline, marks and charms. A quiet, elegant city, it may not overwhelm you with surprises, but it will slowly captivate you.

Travel is about fulfilling a dream held in the heart. When the dream awakens, I find myself in Nanjing ~

This trip to Nanjing, I didn’t explore the city in its entirety, but stayed along the Qinhuai River area. A Qinhuai night is something you must not miss. Most of the Qinhuai River lies within Nanjing, nurturing the city’s ancient civilization. It is the mother river of Nanjing, and is also called "China’s premier historical and cultural river."

"Smoke veils the cold waters, moon beams shroud the sand; moored on Qinhuai at night, near taverns I stand. Songstresses know not the grief of a conquered land; across the river, they still sing backyard flower songs." Du Mu’s "Mooring on Qinhuai" has made the river a poetic and dreamy destination in many hearts.

I had long yearned for the Qinhuai. Besides classical poetry, I remember reading tales of the river in Zhu Ziqing’s famous essay "The Qinhuai River in the Sound of Oars and the Shadow of Lanterns" back in my school days. Even then, my heart was filled with boundless reverie for Nanjing.

Now, finally, I’m drifting in a painted boat upon this deeply poetic, secluded Qinhuai. Neon lights glide across the water, the tones of a guqin seem to reflect an alluring face—I have entered the old dream of Jinling.

The northern bank is home to the lively Confucius Temple scenic area full of worldly vibes, while the southern bank is a quiet, elegant street. Here, the rustic sense of bygone eras stirred a stronger urge in me to wear a cheongsam than in Shanghai, but I hadn’t brought one this time. Strolling along the Qinhuai banks, every brick and tile holds the marks of history.

From the Southern Dynasties onward, the Qinhuai River became a gathering place for noble families. The "Ten Li Qinhuai" is the essence of the Qinhuai scenery, where gifted scholars lingered and stories of beautiful women have been passed down through the ages. Along its banks are scattered cultural relics like Qinhuai Waterside Pavilion, Taoye Ferry, Bailuzhou Park, Jiangnan Examination Hall, Cuiyuan Park, Xie An Memorial Hall, Li Xiangjun’s Former Residence, Zhan Garden, and Zhonghua Gate Barbican.

A dream of Jinling—I can’t tell if it’s a splendid fantasy or an illusion that the mortal world is a dream. The past is like mist and clouds, vanishing with a light breeze, leaving no trace.

Time scatters into a river of starlight. In the vast misty waves, history’s vicissitudes blur into another hometown. There are always some thoughts that just leave the brow, only to creep into the heart.

By the Qinhuai River sits a 24-hour unmanned self-service bookstore—it’s called "A Very Small Bookstore."

Nestled in a guesthouse, the bookstore’s design blends Jiangnan charm with a minimalist artistic style, and the potted plants at the door are lush and green. It’s not far from the commercial street of Laomendong but remains quiet, far from the noise and impatience of the crowds, as if forgotten by the world.

Inside, the space is small, with many things, yet not cluttered. One wall is covered with bookshelves: the lower and middle tiers hold various bestsellers, while the two upper tiers display old books not for sale—only reachable by ladder. A small wooden ladder leans against the shelves, quietly waiting for the next unknown reader. Among the bookshelves, there are childhood comic books, small toys, a guitar, cat beds, a wooden chair, a Republican-era typewriter, a gramophone, and other intriguing objects.

The bookstore’s entrance is plastered with postcard messages. Unlike typical bookstore message boards full of praise and blessings, the notes here record visitors’ joys and sorrows. You can casually pick a postcard from the desk, jot down your own story, and share your happiness or sadness with the world.

Now the entire shop’s owners are three adorable cat managers, and the only rule is not to feed them at will. A Very Small Bookstore is also a quiet, warm haven that soothes your mood.

When it comes to temple attractions, most leave an impression of solemnity without much fun. But stepping into Nanjing’s Grand Bao’en Temple Heritage Park will surely amaze you.

The Grand Bao’en Temple is located outside Zhonghua Gate in the Qinhuai District of Nanjing. It is the oldest Buddhist temple in Chinese history and the first Buddhist temple built in southern China.

The Grand Bao’en Temple Heritage Park is China’s highest-standard, largest, and best-preserved temple site. Within the park, the millennia-old underground palace and precious gallery are protectively displayed. The park integrates modern technology, and you’ll find that it’s not just a relic site but rather a large-scale art exhibition.

Entering the hall, vertical structures give the ordinary ruins a strong artistic design feel. Today’s Grand Bao’en Temple was rebuilt on the original site, and the heritage park seamlessly merges Buddhist culture with modern technology, offering us a brand-new, breathtaking visual feast.

There’s a TV show called "National Treasure." In one episode, actress Qin Hailu guarded the glazed pagoda archway that stands here. The glazed pagoda of Grand Bao’en Temple was once hailed as one of the "Seven Wonders of the World," and the genuine piece is now housed in the Nanjing Museum.

The serenity of Buddhist wisdom, the reverence spanning millennia, and the silent gaze between Xuanzang and the Buddha inspire deep awe. Pausing here, your heart will quiet down.

The Grand Bao’en Temple heritage exhibition zone mainly shows the temple’s development, the temple ruins, the gallery ruins, and artifacts unearthed from the underground palace. It features the millennium-old Buddhist lineage, the millennium gaze, the past and present, the waterworks site, righteous well, and unearthed relics.

The Buddhist culture exhibition area highlights Nanjing’s prominent position in Chinese Buddhism and even in world Buddhism. It presents exhibits such as ancestral courts of various schools, the four hundred eighty temples of the Southern Dynasties, the center for the eastward spread of Buddhism, and the relic light.

The most stunning is the Relic Light exhibition area. Here, 84,000 lamps are embedded, corresponding to the "84,000 Dharma doors" in Buddhism. Under the dome rests a reclining statue of Sakyamuni Buddha in nirvana. The shifting, dazzling lights are not only a visual shock but also contain Buddhist words and meditative wisdom.

In the ever-changing seven-color radiance, you can quietly make a wish in your heart, and see if this wondrous place senses your desire to repay kindness with a rainbow of splendor.

At Grand Bao’en Temple Heritage Park, you can admire ancient temple ruins, and also treat it as a trendy photo spot, as the LED lights create many dreamlike spaces.

After leaving the Relic Light, you enter the "Transformed Scripture Gallery"—a colorful tunnel that uses ancient Chinese Buddhist painting styles to tell the story of the Nine-Colored Deer.

Under the bodhi tree, a monk sits in meditation, with Zen words inscribed behind him, immersing you in a vast realm of Chan mindfulness.

Through sound, light, electricity, and various interactive installations, technological elements blend into artistic scenes. Grand Bao’en Temple presents us with historical relics endowed with a highly modern artistic sense.

In ancient times, Changganli was a bustling area of Nanjing, and today, this former Changgan land has become a trendy fun street.

Changganli Trendy Fun Street integrates intangible cultural heritage creation, fashion, Guofeng performances, specialty cuisine, and Instagram-worthy spots, creating a diverse nightlife experience.

As early as the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods, Changganli was already the most densely populated area of Nanjing. Many poems and songs describe the life, love, and local customs here—the idiom "childhood sweethearts, innocent playmates" originated from this very place.

The Changganli Trendy Fun Street is located at the Grand Bao’en Temple heritage site and Changgan Bridge, full of Qinhuai character. Simultaneously, the entire block features "trendy fun" as its hallmark, blending traditional culture with fashion elements to highlight Qinhuai elegance.

Here, you can experience ancient-style markets, intangible heritage displays, stage performances, Instagram-worthy spots, and many other interactive projects, plus a variety of delicious snacks and interesting trinkets.

The Grand Bao’en Temple Heritage Scenic Area collaborates with "Jiangnan Hundred Scenes," and in Changganli Trendy Fun Street, you can travel back to the Jiangnan town during the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty, and feel the Jiangnan nightlife in the "tender countryside."

Changganli is renowned, repeatedly celebrated by literati and scholars, not just because it was the site of the ancient Yue city and a prosperous commercial district, but also because it was Nanjing’s Buddhist center.

Come to Changganli Trendy Fun Street; while enjoying the Qinhuai night market, you can also visit Grand Bao’en Temple to soak in Buddhist serenity~

Although the rapid passage of time and shifting scenery have dimmed the glamorous reputation of Nanjing’s "Six Dynasties gold and powder," those faint traces of history seem to reveal her endless vastness and mouthful of helplessness.

In front of Dacheng Gate stands the first gate of the Confucius Temple, Lingxing Gate—a simple, elegant stone structure with six columns and three gates, decorated with peony reliefs. As your gaze shifts, three stone bridges appear, with the Qinhuai River’s shimmering water flowing beneath. To the east of the stone railing is the flying-eaved Kuiguang Pavilion, where exam candidates from the imperial examination hall used to gather over tea. To the southwest, a pavilion called Juxing Pavilion stands. On the northern side is the four-pillar, three-gate Wenshu Archway, with four golden characters above the center: "Tianxia Wenshu" (Literary Hub of the World).

Looking out at the Qinhuai River, boats adorned with large red silk balls and red lanterns are quietly anchored on both banks, with only a few drifting in the center of the river, even radiating a subtle antique charm.

Standing in front of the Confucius Temple square, as the setting sun casts a quiet afterglow over gilded terraces and painted pleasure boats weave rippling reflections, the streets and alleys are a steady stream of bustling crowds.

Walking into the Confucius Temple pedestrian street, antique pavilions line both sides, hung with strings of bright red lanterns. Shops of every kind stretch as far as the eye can see.

In the curio shops, you’ll see many Yuhua stones—jade green, transparent, tangerine—you can choose one and have your name engraved as a keepsake. In the food street, delicacies parade before your eyes: duck blood vermicelli soup, osmanthus cake, and the famous salted duck.

At night, the Confucius Temple is lively: opera performances, shadow puppetry, snacks, and all sorts of craft and collectible stalls. Strolling through the night market, you always feel as if reuniting with old times, as if you’ve stepped into a chapter of Jinling’s history.

The former prosperity of the Confucius Temple has left behind many precious folk cultural legacies. But times have changed—Confucius Temple is no longer a haunt of dignitaries but a place where ordinary people love to wander.

All around the Confucius Temple are Jiangnan-style buildings from the Ming and Qing Huizhou school: white walls, grey tiles, mottled eaves pointing skyward, grey roofs set against snow-white walls, exquisitely antique and elegant. At night, under dazzling lights, a rich cultural atmosphere emanates everywhere.

In the maze of crisscrossing deep lanes, I seem to catch a glimpse of the peerless beauties of Qinhuai—the Eight Beauties of Qinhuai—captivating and enchanting amid the misty lantern glow. In these pavilions, painted boats, the sound of oars, and the shadow of lanterns, I sense the leisure and elegance of the ancients and the beauty of the Qinhuai. I so wish the beautiful, lost love stories could be replayed.

Staying at a hotel on the Qinhuai River, I frame the Jinling dream into picture after picture:

Passing hastily through Nanjing, the boats and mist on the Qinhuai, the historical relics of Grand Bao’en Temple, the carriages and crowds before Confucius Temple—these will still stir ripples in my heart.

Apart from handsome, there’s nothing else.

"Under the moonlight, time alternates.

History faintly reappears before my eyes, still searched and sought to this day.

Blue-stone lanes, lamplights of time.

The old friends have gone, but longing lingers on forever."

Travelogue Index

1. Foreword

2. Awakening from the Dream | First Glimpse of Nanjing

3. Poetic Charm of Qinhuai River | Surging Feelings

4. A Very Small Bookstore | Soothing the Mood

5. Grand Bao’en Temple | Historic Relics Rich in Artistry

6. Changganli Trendy Fun Street | Nightlife of Jiangnan