A Blaze of Red in Gusu and Jinling: Tianping Mountain, Qixia Mountain & Nanshan Bamboo Sea
Note: I spent most of my Suzhou time in the Gusu district. Writing 'Gusu' sounded fun partly because of The Untamed. As for Jinling—that was Nanjing's name when it served as an ancient capital.
This long-overdue Jiangsu trip was finally on, delayed for over half a year due to the pandemic. What was originally a flower-viewing trip turned into a leaf-peeping mission.
Since I didn’t see true mountain-wide red leaves on my trip to Liping last month, I was determined to see fiery foliage this time.
This was my second solo trip to eastern China. I adore the unique Jiangnan style. Last time, I visited five ancient towns and three gardens in one go. This time I tackled three mountains in a row, two of which are among China’s top four maple leaf viewing spots—I bet you can guess which two!
Guidebooks said mid-November was the best maple season, but a real-time WeChat official account reported that late November would be even better. I hesitated, missed mid-November’s good weather, and then saw forecasts of a sharp temperature drop and rain. After painful deliberation, I decided to just go. But Suzhou has no airport. Shanghai tickets were dirt cheap, but then Pudong was listed as a medium-risk area. I couldn’t risk my trip, so I flew to Wuxi instead. Accommodations near Wuxi were ridiculous—none offered airport pickup. For safety, even the cheapest midnight flights were out, so I opted for a midday flight. After comparing ticket prices, I settled on November 24.
November 24, 2020: A minor hiccup. I drove to catch the airport shuttle bus but the car died midway. I hailed a taxi to the terminal while my dad handled the car.
It was my first time taking Zhuhai’s airport bus. The ride supposed to take 2.5 hours but we arrived in 2. Since I’d already taken an earlier bus due to schedule issues, I ended up at the airport a full three hours early—quite the achievement. I people-watched for two hours and grabbed lunch. Finally boarded the plane; China Eastern had great deals this year.
Clouds just after takeoff; the sun was brilliant. The temperature drop was mild—a long-sleeve top plus a jacket once I landed, just right, no awkwardness.
As we descended, the clouds turned grim. It was raining upon landing. I had lunch before boarding, so I couldn’t manage the inflight meal.
After landing: temperature checks, scanning QR codes to show Suzhou Health Code and travel history. Then I bundled up and rushed to Gate 6 to buy a bus ticket to Suzhou Railway Station. The fare was 35 yuan, not what the official account had said. I missed the 15:10 bus, so the next one was at 16:00.
The waiting area for the airport bus was at Gate 7. Staff reminded us to check tickets when it was time. The person next to me had bought two tickets to get to Suzhou: they’d originally bought a Shanghai ticket but were too scared to use it, so they rebooked to Wuxi. Kind of funny!
Drizzle filled the sky. I asked around and learned that Suzhou Railway Station’s long-distance bus terminal had no bus to Liyang; only the South Bus Station did. So I took the metro to Leqiao and checked into a hotel near Guanqian Park.
The receptionist asked if I had visited any medium- or high-risk areas in the past 14 days. After dropping my stuff, I headed to Shantang Street.
A chilly rainy night. Not many people out, but the old-town waterside scenery was all there. The street wasn’t long; there were boat rides and local snacks like freshly made osmanthus cakes, best eaten warm. They reminded me of the gorgon fruit cakes I’d bought in Wuzhen years ago.
After a short stroll, I headed back to Guanqian Street.
I’d been to Guanqian Street a few years back, but I didn’t realize then that the side alleys are its real charm.
This archway marks the main street of Guanqian Street, but it’s wide with upscale shops on both sides. You have to turn right into a lane parallel to the main street to find the food vendors you’d expect in a pedestrian shopping area.
Even the street name impressed me. I’d wanted to continue to Pingjiang Road, but it was getting late, so I went back to wash up and sleep.
November 25, 2020: Headed out early for breakfast. More drizzle. I wanted noodles, but the shop only had wontons and soup dumplings. I went with wontons. Whew, the portion was huge for my breakfast.
Metro then bus to Tianping Mountain. Gotta vent: after finalizing my Jiangsu plans, I bought 1-yuan tickets for the Humble Administrator’s Garden and the Couple’s Retreat Garden for the 26th via the official WeChat account. But tickets for Tianping Mountain on the 25th were sold out, while the 26th was still available. After weighing my options, I just booked a 30-yuan ticket on Ctrip.
The red leaves at the bus stop were stunning. Still raining. From the stop, I saw the scenic area exit; groups could enter there, but individual visitors had to walk a few hundred meters to the right.
The individual entrance featured elegant white walls and bamboo. I scanned my Ctrip QR code and walked in to see a memorial arch.
Online guides said the red leaves were all around two lakes, no mountain climb needed. There was the winding bridge over Shijing Pond, and the building across was Fan Zhongyan’s Ancestral Hall.
When lotuses bloom beside the bridge, it must be a different sight entirely.
Fan Zhongyan’s Hall had a nice courtyard with a towering ginkgo tree, its leaves nearly all fallen.
The Baiyun Ancient Temple was so solemn it felt awe-inspiring.
Following the route recommended online, I reached Tongzi Gate. Stairs led up the mountain; to the right was the Meditation Pavilion. Going up meant taking the left path, which passed some buildings with doors firmly shut.
I loved the maple and ginkgo leaves under the eaves. With drizzle and humidity, the place felt truly ethereal.
I could still see the Meditation Pavilion. Little did I know, the real climb was just beginning, and there was still a long way to go.
I struggled up to what the map called a “shop”—turned out to be just a vending machine. Down to the right was Tianyun Temple; ahead up the slope was the summit viewing platform.
Went to Tianyun Temple—just a place to pray. Thick fog made it look like an Instagram filter.
Back at the vending machine, I went up to check the viewing platform. Another 'Peak That Flew Here.' Maybe because of rain and fog, I saw absolutely no scenery—it rivaled Lingyin Temple’s Feilai Peak in that respect.
I didn't even know why I climbed up; the path was rough, and this was just the start.
Following that online route to descend? I regretted it bitterly. I should have just turned back.
Folks, I have no idea how I made it. I was stuck, almost breaking down.
Instead of enjoying the leaves at the foot, why did I insist on climbing? And here’s the karma.
A path only as wide as a shoe. Looking back at the 'Three-Line Sky.' If you accidentally end up at Lotus Cave, I implore sturdy folks with less-than-slim builds and less-endurance fairy maidens: don't even think about copying this climb. You can replace ruined clothes, but a ruined body is a luxury you can't buy back.
Finally down, I saw a maple tree in full blazing red, and my mood instantly lifted.
Following the gasps of a few young women, I saw 'Big Brother'—a monkey—philosophizing about life on the rooftop.
Passing through that courtyard, I saw another ginkgo tree almost bare.
I realized it was the Fan Zhongyan Memorial Hall. 'Be the first to worry about the world's troubles and the last to enjoy its pleasures.'
Outside the arch was the maple forest.
Compared to the deserted summit, the autumn scenery around the two lakes drew wave after wave of people taking photos.
I’d spent so long climbing that I nearly forgot I had to visit the Suzhou Museum today. The free reservation slot from 3–4 PM had to be cancelled and rebooked to 4–5 PM via the museum's WeChat account. By the time I reached the bus stop at 2:30, I knew the trip back would take at least an hour. I ran the whole way except when on the bus.
I made it as the very last visitor before the staff closed the museum doors. They told me I could only exit through Zhongwang Mansion. They sure knock off early.
As darkness fell, I didn't explore the exhibition halls much. The only one I entered had a model of the museum; the highlight was the exterior, which was gorgeous. I hope someday someone will accompany me to enjoy views and take my photos.
Rain got heavier. I hurried—the museum connects to Zhongwang Mansion, so I exited through there.
Pouring rain. My clothes and backpack were waterproof, but my shoes weren't. Even with an umbrella, my shoes got soaked. Spotted a McDonald's and dashed inside to wait out the storm. After about half an hour, the rain stopped, but it was dark.
Even the McDonald's had a Suzhou touch.
Headed to Pingjiang Road for food, and ended up at Hefu Noodle. On every trip, I never have a gourmet section because walking after a full meal bloats me. So snacks and noodles suit me best.
I remembered last time it was also nighttime, and nothing had changed. Overheard a shopkeeper say rain would return at 8 PM. I’d planned to get fried dough sticks with mochi as a late snack on Guanqian Street, but now I rushed back to the hotel.
November 26, 2020: Overslept. Still drizzling. I hadn't found a breakfast place on Pingjiang Road yet, so I figured I'd eat after visiting the Couple’s Retreat Garden.
Daytime Pingjiang Road had a different charm.
There were those framed views I love.
Maple leaves I never tire of.
This year I discovered that plantain trees, which I’d seen since childhood, have a fresh, youthful vibe—I've grown to love them.
In a word, all the pavilions, terraces, and towers you'd expect were there.
More plantain trees; the plantain buds reminded me of congee.
I was hungry, but still saw nothing to eat. Then I spotted osmanthus cake again. Bought it without hesitation and ate while walking.
Spotted a restaurant I'd eaten at years ago.
The opposite bank was lovely.
On Pingjiang Road, a shop's glass door had a large fallen parasol tree leaf stuck to it. I wished I could take it home—but it was too big, and without pressing it, it wouldn't look nice.
Second visit to the Humble Administrator’s Garden, this time in reverse. It felt like my first time; last time I'd arrived late when they were about to close, so I'd only seen it hurriedly.
Every time I saw a ginkgo, I snapped like crazy.
Compared to the Couple's Retreat Garden, the Humble Administrator's Garden was enormous.
It felt like I could never finish exploring.
Was that a Japanese maple? It caught my eye.
Change of style: withered lotus.
They say that's Tiger Hill Pagoda in the distance—once again, I didn't get to visit.
More people here than at the Couple's Retreat Garden. Last time must have been near closing, so it was empty. It was past 11 AM, and I had to change locations in the afternoon. Time to grab that internet-famous fried dough stick for lunch!
On the way, I bought two lotus-pastry cakes for tomorrow's breakfast. The viral fried dough stick was pretty good hot, but I was rushing and didn't take a photo. Hurried back to the hotel for my luggage. No metro to the South Bus Station, so I walked to nearby Leqiao bus stop and took bus 529 to Suzhou South Gate Bus Station. Come to think of it, Suzhou must have city walls, right? South Gate?
Bought a 66-yuan bus ticket to Liyang. I got on the wrong bus—to Yangzhou—but realized at the last moment. The correct bus was right next door; thank goodness I caught it.
The bus got off the expressway at Changzhou. As we neared Liyang Bus Station, there was a traffic light nearly every kilometer—what the heck. Finally arrived; I thought the bus to Nanshan Bamboo Sea would be outside the station square, but after searching in vain for bus 109, I asked at the ticket hall and learned you board inside the station. Duh. Nearly missed the last bus. My shoes were soaked. You could pay the 7.5-yuan fare with WeChat onboard.
Arrived at Nanshan Bamboo Sea parking lot. So this is where the 'Rainbow Road' was. I called my pre-booked hotel for pickup. Behind me, the entrance to Mingqing Street—likely a commercial strip. I mistakenly thought it was the entrance to the scenic area, and the next day I ended up there again.
Finally, I could lie down. The room layout was great. The hotel is family-run. I said I wanted dinner, and the auntie made me plain noodles with spinach and egg from their own garden—tastes like home, delicious!
One problem: it was freezing. Even with the heater on, I shivered. I slept in thicker clothes.
November 27, 2020: A bit cold. Overslept and then procrastinated packing. After the hotel's included breakfast, it was already 9:30 AM. Light rain outside. To keep my shoes dry, I walked so slowly that a 1-kilometer stretch took nearly an hour to reach the scenic area gate.
Rainbow Road in daylight—even the parking spaces were painted in rainbow lines.
Last night I bought a ticket package on a travel platform for 155 yuan, including admission and a round-trip ground funicular. At the gate, staff reminded me that without taking the little train, it’s a half-hour walk to the funicular. Given my pace in the rain, I figured it’d take me an hour at best.
Reached the little train boarding square. The walking boardwalk went right; the train went left.
I absolutely adore bamboo, and with autumn red leaves, it was even more beautiful.
Boating on the lake would have been so relaxing.
Because I wanted to appreciate the bamboo forest’s beauty, I chose to walk. Eventually I made it to Longevity Square, with a giant longevity god’s head in the center. Turning left, I found the cable car and funicular. Unsure of the entrance, I just asked a staff member. Finally, I rode the long-awaited funicular. There were three cars; staff said we could board any. I naturally chose the topmost car—better for taking photos when the two trains pass each other midway. The lower two cars had seats, but the top didn’t. For the best view, don’t sit.
Following signs, I reached Jiming Village. Inside, an old-style private school and a wealthy man’s house—small, much like the rich man’s residence in Huangling. Signs pointed to the Panda Pavilion and the Bamboo Culture Garden.
Went into the bamboo-themed culture garden.
Exiting, a short walk brought me to the Panda Pavilion. Two national treasures. The second floor introduced Huali and Xing’an—both female panda cubs?
The moment I walked in, the fresh scent of bamboo hit me. But I’d come too early; they were still asleep. If they hadn’t rolled over, I would’ve thought they were stuffed—completely motionless.
The exit had a panda souvenir shop. I realized afterward that from Jiming Village, you don’t need to detour through the Culture Garden to get to the Panda Pavilion. I felt like an idiot. If it hadn’t rained, it wouldn’t have mattered, but the rain turned me into a snail.
The cable car went to the summit, Diyi Peak. I really wanted to experience the colorful gondolas—such beautiful scenery hard to find elsewhere. But earlier, I’d climbed to the top of Taiping Mountain in the rain and saw nothing below. Surely I’d see nothing here either. Plus the cable car was semi-open, and once up, there’d be walking. That dissuaded me.
Since the walk up had taken over an hour, I decided to take the little train down.
Reluctant to leave, I don't know if I’ll ever return.
Back at the parking lot, I called the hotel to bring my luggage. Oh, the visitor center left of the archway only serves groups. If you bought tickets online, just scan the QR code at the entrance.
I asked a security guard: the direct bus to Liyang High-Speed Rail Station boards from the middle of the parking lot. No need to buy a ticket in advance—pay 10 yuan on board. Buses leave on the hour.
Plenty of bullet trains from Liyang to Nanjing, so no rush this time.
Arrived in Nanjing after dark. Cold but no more rain. To my surprise, Nanjing didn’t require a health code. The metro's minimum fare was 3 yuan—pricey, but since I was here, I'd ride it.
Got off at Wudingmen and walked to the hotel near Laomendong. The hotel had a Jiangnan water town vibe. Loved the heating—no more shivering. If I weren’t hungry, I wouldn’t have gone out.
It’s perfect for ancient-style photos; lots of young women in cosplay.
Spotted the Nanjing branch of Deyunshe comedy club. Many people were looking on; tickets probably need to be booked in advance.
November 28, 2020: Overslept again. Rushed to Wudingmen, took the metro for half an hour. Qixia Mountain has no metro stop; you have to transfer at Xinzhuang Square to bus D21, over an hour ride. It was Saturday, packed with people waiting for D21 to Qixia Mountain. Taxi drivers offered shared rides for 20 yuan. Finally squeezed onto the bus—no seat, standing the whole long hour.
I’d bought a 37-yuan ticket on the same platform the day before. Scanned the QR code at the entrance. To the right of the gate, a visitor center with free luggage lockers. After ticket check, free three incense sticks for each visitor. I almost picked some up for a photo op, but I wouldn’t enter the temples, and the cold would make my hands frozen, so I passed.
Inside, there were wishing wind chimes, seemingly 20 yuan each.
This is Mirror Lake. Suggested route: Qixia Temple—Mirror Lake—Qianfo Zhai—Peach Blossom Pavilion—Red Leaf Valley—Maple Grove Lake—Red Maple Forest—Xiaoyingpan—stairs down from Xiaoyingpan—Qianfo Cliff—back to Mirror Lake.
People with incense were praying at Qixia Temple. There were four large ginkgo trees, quite beautiful. Learned from Tianping Mountain that climbing devours time, so I skipped the summit and the Yangtze River view. Finally, I got my fix of mountain-wide maple leaves. This day’s satisfaction: every shade of red, yellow, and green. Red leaves likely last till early December!
Around 3 PM I reached Qianfo Tower, then headed back to Qinhuai River. The return bus finally had seats—I could rest at last.
At the Confucius Temple metro stop, up to Qinhuai River. Past 4 PM, it was getting dark. I strolled from Qinhuai River back to Laomendong.
Jiangnan Examination Hall, where imperial exams were once held. Ticket required; I didn't go in, but the facade was nice.
Confucius Temple, didn't enter.
Rickshaws at the entrance, distinctive.
Boat rides too.
Crab roe soup dumpling. I’d seen it on Shantang Street and wanted to try, but it rained and there was no seating. Here, no seat either, but cheaper. Honestly, this thing demands a proper seat. The straw clogs easily; I couldn’t finish the soup. Had to pry it open somewhere—so awkward—splashed broth all over my clothes. The paper base leaked too. Taste just average. Never again.
Online raves about Nanjing-style duck blood vermicelli. Found a well-rated shop on Meituan. The owner thoughtfully asked if I wanted scallions and cilantro—I passed. Maybe I just don’t like innards; everything except the noodles tasted bad. Could scallions and cilantro have masked the odor? Without them, it wasn’t any better.
Saw plum blossom cakes on the street, similar to Suzhou’s osmanthus cakes. They're no good cold. I was too full to try. Wandered Laomendong a bit more before heading to the hotel for my luggage and then to the airport.
Six days away, but only five in Jiangsu. It rained four of those days, but fortunately it didn’t ruin my plans. Hope next cherry blossom season has no disasters. See you next year, Jiangsu!
Finally, a quick breakdown of transport and costs:
Zhuhai–Wuxi flight: 370 yuan
Nanjing–Zhuhai flight: 290 yuan
Home to Zhuhai airport bus: 55×2 = 110 yuan
Wuxi airport to Suzhou Railway Station bus: 35 yuan
Suzhou South Gate Bus Station to Liyang Bus Station: 66 yuan
Liyang Bus Station to Nanshan Bamboo Sea (bus 109): 7.5 yuan
Nanshan Bamboo Sea to Liyang High-Speed Rail Station: 10 yuan
Liyang Station to Nanjing Station: 45 yuan
Tianping Mountain ticket: 30 yuan
Humble Administrator’s Garden ticket: 1 yuan; Couple's Retreat Garden ticket: 1 yuan
Nanshan Bamboo Sea ticket + round-trip funicular: 155 yuan; one-way little train: 15 yuan
Qixia Mountain ticket: 37 yuan
Suzhou accommodation 2 nights: 245 yuan
Nanshan Bamboo Sea Panjia Village hotel: 155 yuan
Nanjing Jianying Hotel 1 night: 176 yuan
Zhuhai hotel 1 night (included with flight) plus 30 yuan extra
Other metro and meals total: 220 yuan
I don’t spend much on food, which probably saved a lot. The 6-day trip cost under 2,000 yuan, which stunned even me. Don't copy me, everyone, hahahaha.
