Year 7 in Nanjing | Through Springs and Autumns, Another Summer: A Glimpse of My Life Here—Would You Care to Stop By?

📍 Nanjing · 👁 3 reads · ❤️ 210 likes

I love Nanjing, perhaps because the days I’ve spent here account for a third of my life, perhaps because I’ve wandered through its four seasons so many times, perhaps because here there are people I want to remember.

“Like” seems to be the word I most want to say to Nanjing—so simple, just like the feeling this city gives you: quietly getting on with its days, never pushy, never grabby, and in doing so making everything about it a little more lovely. “Like” lacks the intensity of “love,” but life, after all, prefers the gentle steady flow of a long stream. So amid these calm and quiet moments, I’d like to take you to see all the nooks and crannies of Nanjing I’ve come to know over the years.

In March, 朝天宫 does not carry the imperial grandeur of a snowy day, yet it has its own charm. The magnolias are at their peak, softening its usual solemnity into something innocent and tender.

Looking back through its history, 朝天宫 was originally the Yecheng fortress built by King Fuchai of Wu. During the Ming Dynasty, it served as a place for rehearsing rituals before grand court ceremonies. To me, it has always represented solemnity—not just because of its past, but because of this beautifully preserved ancient architectural complex, with its red walls and yellow glazed tiles, making you feel as if you’ve stepped back a thousand years.

The 武康路 and 天竺路 around the 颐和路 area are so stunning in April they leave you tongue-tied. Roses bloom along these Republic-era streets, and all the way north, everywhere you look is spring at its finest.

Speaking of 颐和路 might feel like a well-worn topic—it’s a must-go for the arty crowd, a cultural and historic district from the Republic period, and all of that is true. But in truth, there’s far more than just the road named 颐和路 here. When you have time, go seek out 牯岭路, 琅琊路, 珞珈路, 西康路…

Inside the exhibition halls of the 颐和公馆’s twelve areas, there’s porcelain on display. It needs no florid words; it is already beautiful.

And then there’s my secret rooftop spot, with the 颐和公馆 compound on one side and 紫峰大厦 on the other—a constant feeling of time travel. (I want to take you there!)

What I love most in spring is strolling down 明陵路, passing through the zelkova trees and the dawn redwood grove, right up to the city wall to admire the springtime views of 前湖. And then there’s my favorite at 中山植物园: the hydrangeas!

Apart from the magical firefly nights in June, I prefer her by daylight: serene and composed, like a well-bred lady hidden in a secluded courtyard. The spot at the end of 灵谷路 is worth an entire day, even if you just sit and daydream.

This place is truly a hidden treasure within 紫金山. Everywhere you turn, there’s the grandeur of a state guesthouse, yet also the tenderness of little bridges over flowing streams. The Roman architectural style harmonizes with the ancient pines and cypresses. You can see what was once a guesthouse half a century ago, now transformed.

Even the clouds can’t resist showing off—don’t they look like a dragon? Hehe.

In the southern part of the city, you can always duck into all kinds of lanes: 箍桶巷, 草堆巷, 剪子巷. Time here seems to pass a little slower than elsewhere. Perhaps it’s that feeling of fleeting encounters with the flow of years, which is why I’m so enchanted.

One of the few 24-hour bookstores in Nanjing, it’s undeniably appealing—especially to those of us in the city who long for a quiet corner. 二楼南书房 sits in an old residential compound in the bustling downtown. Even the cats there have a melancholy, artsy air.

This is also a signature poetry house under the 先锋书店 banner, tucked away in the 中山陵 scenic area. Past 陵园路, it nestles here, a poetic dwelling—surely a dream for many.

Another one of 先锋书店’s bookstores, this one sits in 老门东. You can while away a leisurely afternoon in any of Nanjing’s 先锋书店—each one is wonderfully different. The building of this particular store was actually transported in one piece from 婺源 to Nanjing!

The filming location for “Romance in the Rain” and “The Story of a Noble Family”—do you think back to those old-school romances? There’s a certain magic here that instantly transports you to the 1980s, an era when you’d hop on a bicycle and rush toward the future.

In Nanjing’s long history as the capital of ten dynasties, the Ming Dynasty always gets talked about. The 明孝陵博物馆, small but exquisite, tells the story of that legendary emperor, Zhu Yuanzhang, and his dynasty.

Inside the museum, the Yunjin brocade weaving: every shuttle and thread worked by the master weaver is a masterpiece on the loom.

The world-famous “plane-tree necklace” makes you feel the romance between Chiang Kai-shek and Soong Mei-ling just by hearing about it. And 美龄宫, the heart of that necklace, is a true “Phoenix Palace.” Embellished with a thousand phoenixes, this residence of the First Lady still dazzles today.

南京博物院: setting aside its status as one of the three great museums, the Republic Era-themed street inside is somewhere I could visit a hundred times and never tire of! With its street modeled after the old Republican “Zi Wu Xian” and two floors of vintage buildings, you could easily spend the whole day here.

Beneath the misty willows of 台城, the seventy-li city wall holds Nanjing’s memories. And the fragrant duck blood vermicelli soup is the taste of Jinling. Here you also get the ultimate pairing: 玄武湖 and 鸡鸣寺!

The cats at 鸡鸣寺 will even give you a kiss—come here quickly to pray for love!

A study hidden inside the city wall: sit here sipping tea, listening to the lake water lapping against the wall, telling the tales of Nanjing across six dynasties.

Skip the crowded painted barges at 夫子庙. This boat ride takes a different route, from 报恩寺 to 集庆门, with the sounds of paddles and the glow of lanterns all the way—a romantic trip along the legendary 秦淮河.

The famous staircase at 河海大学, where youth stood still in the movie “So Young.” Here you’ll find messages and wish-you-wells left by graduates. The most memorable one I saw: “May you always have wine and meat, and may your girl be so ugly you won’t notice!”

Autumn in Nanjing is my personal favorite. These bright, vivid colors are the Nanjing I want to take you to see. And 明孝陵 with its 石象路 is undoubtedly the most stunning sight of the season.

Actually, try a different approach, and 明孝陵 becomes even more fun. The plum blossom valley here, with the reflections of the dawn redwoods on the water, is a serendipitous surprise!

Come October, your feed is bound to be flooded with pink muhly grass. Of course, no girl can resist a pink fairy-tale world. And this expanse of pink muhly on 江心洲 pairs perfectly with the sunset.

When you come to Nanjing as a tourist, you have to visit 夫子庙—otherwise, you’ll never quite feel you’ve been here! Despite all the complaints, I think it’s at its most beautiful when snow falls over Jinling.

Beyond the four seasons, these everyday moments in Nanjing are all worth recording and sharing.

The early summer morning light on 苜中路, dappled and dancing.

The surround-sound of music at the music stage—waiting here for you to feed the pigeons.

甘熙故居, where the boldness of “99 and a half rooms” meets humility. Today, it also serves as a folk museum. Intangible cultural heritage artisans make velvet flowers and paper-cuts here, and on weekends you might catch a performance of Nanjing’s unique local opera, “Bai Ju.”

The former Supreme Court of the Republic of China government. Gone are its glory days; now it sits a little forlorn in the bustling streets of 鼓楼.

When you tire of wandering around 颐和路, you can rest at 颐和书馆 (also part of 先锋书店). Sit by the floor-to-ceiling window, sip a coffee, and read a line by Haizi: “Tonight I met everything in the world, but I will not meet you.”

中华门瓮城. Walking along this best-preserved section of the city wall, you can overlook the night view of 老门东. The whitewashed walls and grey tiles, the memories of the old south city—no words are needed; you’ll understand as soon as you come.

In 老门东, there’s a nostalgia shop dedicated to old Nanjing memories. Inside, century-old brands and people and stories from bygone days—would you like to go look for them?

标营门. Nanjing is never short on city walls and gates; traces of history are everywhere. I don’t think every city can claim that.

The sunset seen from the window of 紫峰大厦.

科举博物馆, a refreshing cultural spot at 夫子庙. Its unique architecture, extending four floors underground, features a wall of books and scrolls that instantly makes you feel as if you’ve been transported to the imperial examinations of old Jiangnan.

止马岭, an autumn hotspot in Nanjing. The sunrise here never disappoints.

武定门, where a branch of 金陵书苑 is tucked away.

Inside 中华门 castle, did you know there’s a hidden troop shelter?

随园书店, full of cats and postcards. Just the right place when you happen to come, and I happen to be here.

Trees growing on the city wall! When I came across them, even though it was deep winter, they were still lush and green. I thought how wonderful it is to grow up undisturbed.

On a rare foggy night, the traffic lights and the silhouette of someone heading home beneath them.

夫子庙 at night, after the snow has been brushed away and the daytime crowds have gone. I much prefer her like this, under the cover of darkness.

The food here hides in the alleys. The old shop fronts that line the streets all boast authentic Nanjing flavors not to be overlooked.

小潘记鸭血粉丝 is a real favorite—it’s the kind of duck blood vermicelli soup you’ll crave over and over again. The best in Nanjing! No competition.

Even wandering through a market here brings happiness: 阿财菜饼, Xinjiang barbecue, fried cold noodles, roast duck—you can eat your way from one end to the other until your stomach bursts.

A 20-year-old eatery, a true veteran. You probably remember the scene in “Dying to Survive” where Wang Chuanjun stuffs his face with their soup dumplings, popping them into his mouth one after another without stopping!

Nowadays, this has become a standard tourist spot, complete with a food street. Three or four years ago, it was still an unnoticed hidden gem. Though, of course, the food here is still wonderfully authentic.

科巷’s “勿相忘” skewers, and the hit skewer shops on 户部街 and 明瓦廊—you’ll find many such chili-laden temptations all over Nanjing!

安庆柴火馄饨, a taste straight from memory. The distinctive aroma released by the burning wood seeps through the crack of the pot lid and into the food.

After hearing so much about Nanjing, maybe you’re a bit tired of it? Nanjing is not just an ancient capital, and it shouldn’t be! Come here and see—stories, artistry, real life—maybe you’ll find something different, something that resonates, between you and Nanjing.

Travelogue Contents

1. Spring and Summer Nanjing | Taking You to See a World in Bloom

2. 朝天宫

3. 西康路

4. 中山植物园

5. 灵谷寺

6. 东郊国宾馆

7. 剪子巷

8. 二楼南书房

9. 永丰诗社

10. 骏惠书屋

11. Autumn and Winter Nanjing | Taking You on a Journey Through the Years