Revisiting Nanjing After Fifteen Years

Fifteen years. I don’t know how many more fifteen-year spans my life holds, much less what I’ll become in the next one. I only know that in the most beautiful years of life, there is but one fifteen-year period.

2002 – a year etched in my memory. It was my first time flying, first time cruising the Three Gorges, first time visiting... Nanjing!

Looking back at photos from that time, memories rush back like water. I remember the 12-hour bus ride, the engine failure from a leaking radiator, the guide explaining the origin of the sycamore trees lining the streets, the emptied dishes and bottles at Wanqinglou, the matching shoes and bags my bestie and I wore, and how I, who never ate duck, fell in love with salted duck... Turns out, the memories are still vivid; they’ve always been there, and my friends have always been with me.

I look so young in those photos! And there’s my dear Old Pang Sun, Little Stone, and Little Wang Wang!!!

2017 was a significant year for our family: my daughter got into university far away in Fuzhou. I had planned to stay home until I saw her off, but then a concert she wanted to attend brought me back to Nanjing. In those fifteen years, I’d actually been here once besides 2002 – in 2011, but it was a rushed trip with only a brief stop at Fuzimiao. So, it truly was a reunion with Nanjing after fifteen years.

Before the trip, I seriously considered booking a homestay for more comfort and the convenience of a washing machine. We picked a place near Zhujiangkou where Metro Lines 1 and 3 meet, in the Yueshikong Building. The location was great, close to Xinjiekou, and very convenient for eating, staying, and getting around. Highly recommend!

Since Dad had a meeting and would come at night, my daughter and I took the high-speed train to Nanjing, the city I’d been longing for. At noon, Nanjing was scorching; it felt like sweat evaporated instantly. At 12:30, right at lunchtime, we dropped our luggage and took a taxi straight to Lion’s Bridge. Upon arrival, I was a bit stunned – it was nothing like I’d imagined. The streets were completely empty, and for a moment I thought we’d come to the wrong place. Braving the sun, I looked at the grand archway of Lion’s Bridge and thought, forget it, as long as we can eat.

My daughter had done some homework this time, finding well-known restaurants and snacks. The first thing we spotted was Yin’s Soup Dumplings. It’s said this century-old shop’s chicken soup dumplings are delicious and quite affordable.

We entered, queued, paid, and picked up our food – everything went smoothly! To sum up, the soup dumplings were good. They were big, with rich broth. Some might find them too sweet and greasy, but I thought they were fine. Definitely add a little vinegar – it cuts the grease and adds a layer of flavor. Their duck blood vermicelli soup was just okay. While the first bite was impressive, after trying Huiwei’s version later, this one felt bland.

These were the biggest soup dumplings I had during my days in Nanjing, no kidding.

To sample more Nanjing cuisine, after this light meal we immediately headed to the nearby Nanjing Impressions. Lucky for us, it wasn’t crowded that day, so we got a proper seat and a decent meal. In the following days, every branch of Nanjing Impressions was packed with long queues and crowds – impossible to eat at.

The decor was distinctive; you can spot a Nanjing Impressions anywhere at a glance. The seating turnover was high, and it’s said the servers are trained to serve dishes precisely on time, no slacking.

We ordered three dishes, all vouched for by many netizens. Our stomachs were limited, so we avoided big meals and just tried famous small plates. My take: the roast duck dumpling tasted a bit odd, maybe because I rarely eat duck, but my daughter liked it. The shrimp roe tofu was excellent. I thought it’d be similar to crab roe tofu, but it was quite different – no hint of shrimp sweetness or fishiness, yet the shrimp made its presence known with every bite. The standout was this unassuming bowl of sweet taro sprouts. Despite its name, the sweetness was light, not cloying or starchy, with a delicate osmanthus fragrance. A wonderful experience.

After two spots, we were super full, but when I saw a recommended candied hawthorn stick, I couldn’t resist. Then we discovered Suyiming Crab Roe Soup Dumplings in an alley – tempting, but we just couldn’t eat another bite.

Outside, it was bright and sunny, so we thought of heading to the aquarium where it’d be cool. We hopped on a bus, and by the time we reached the Ming Palace it was already 3 p.m. To avoid arriving at a closed door, we wisely got off and changed course to the Nanjing Museum.

The Nanjing Museum is huge, with about six or seven halls. With limited time, we just visited the nature and history halls, missing the Republic of China hall and others. It was quite interesting. While most museums nationwide are similar, this one focuses on Nanjing’s history as the capital of six dynasties, detailing the city’s changes. Coincidentally, there was an ‘Empire’s Golden Age’ exhibition. We spent 50 yuan to see many Qing Dynasty and Tsarist Russian artifacts, with many Qing pieces borrowed from the Palace Museum.

Before leaving, we found this coffee and tea lounge. My usual latte and tiramisu suddenly brought me a sense of calm.

Heading back by metro, we unexpectedly came across the Huiwei duck blood vermicelli soup we’d missed at Lion’s Bridge. Without hesitation, we crossed the street to try it.

Their dumplings looked similar to Yin’s, but were actually much smaller. The soup, however, was fantastic. I don't know if I've gotten used to it or what, but I'm just especially fond of duck blood vermicelli soup. Sorry, I get carried away whenever I talk about food...

We waited for Dad that evening; it was a long wait – he didn’t arrive until midnight.

Friday, the 11th – concert day. The weather was sunny and cloudless. Since the evening event was important, we chose the Presidential Palace for today – not too tiring. After exploring, we’d have lunch at Fuzimiao, head home to rest, and then leave for the Olympic Sports Center at 4:30. Perfect!

Since it wasn’t far from our place, we walked. We reached the Presidential Palace around 9 a.m. It was packed! Dad and I had been here before, so the main reason was for our kid to experience it. Thanks to my quick thinking, I found a short queue and bought tickets in no time. If we’d followed the slow line the guys wanted, we’d still be there at noon.

Honestly, after fifteen years, my memories were faint. The moment I saw the ‘Tianxia Weigong’ (All Under Heaven is for the Public) plaque, my heart stirred with an unnameable emotion. For some reason, I thought of the three Soong sisters, of Soong Ching-ling defying family pressure to marry Dr. Sun Yat-sen, and how his revolution remained unfinished before he died. Looking at the lush greenery and waterside pavilions, I felt how fleeting life is. No matter how glorious you were, you end up just a body in a crystal coffin. Most people return to dust, not as enduring as the verdant trees or the silently nourishing streams.

West of the Presidential Palace is the 1912 District, built with a lot of character. Many young people were taking photos, but I felt old – not just in looks, but in spirit – and had no interest. The street had many restaurants, including Red Mansion, and one called ‘Passing Through Your World.’ Ivy covered its entire facade, cascading like a green waterfall. I was drawn to it and ran a long way just to take a picture. Ah, movie nostalgia!

We had planned to take the metro to Fuzimiao for lunch, but the moment we exited the station, there was so much good food. True to my principle of never missing a tasty bite, we decided to eat right there. Let’s eat!

Actually, we ate at three places: Huiwei’s dry-tossed noodles, Shanghai pan-fried buns, and this Yutingxian’s fish noodle soup. Though already full, we still ate quite a bit, consoling ourselves that walking more later would help digest it all. The tragedy of a foodie...

I don’t really understand young people’s minds – maybe because I never idolize celebrities. I think letting a stranger control your thoughts is irrational, but for my daughter’s urgent wish, I kept my opinions and feelings to myself and supported her as best I could.

Crowds everywhere. My daughter lined up to get in, and soon Dad and I lost sight of her. It took her about an hour just to enter the gate. What a crazy era.

With nothing else to do, we grabbed two share bikes to explore. We thought of riding to the Yangtze River, but seeing the late hour, we quickly dropped that idea. Then I remembered a restaurant called Chu Niang that was supposed to be good. A quick search showed it was in the Central Mansion opposite. Two typical foodies, we raced over there.

Ordering is an art. Before visiting a restaurant you’ve never tried, the wisest move is to check others’ recommendations and reviews, especially when you’re eating light but good. We ordered the three most recommended dishes, but I only photographed two for some reason. The boiled fish was decent but not amazing. The next dish, I initially thought was Shanghai’s eight-treasure chili paste – small diced, very flavorful, totally a rice killer, but sadly no rice. Overall, it was just okay, not unforgettable or addictive.

My daughter came out around 10:30 p.m. Luckily, Nanjing’s metro is reliable and was still running. Thank you, Nanjing Metro!

Saturday, cloudy. When we set out, a light drizzle was falling. By the time we reached the Nanjing Massacre Memorial Hall, it was pouring. Exiting the metro, I was shocked – the queue snaked around several corners. Instantly, a surge of patriotism rose within me, a tight feeling in my chest, like a fire locked inside, burning but unable to burst out. I think this is the subtle yet profound result of China’s years of education. No matter how open-minded, radical, lost, or decadent you may be, the motherland remains supreme in your heart. Wolf Warrior 2 earned nearly 6 billion yuan because of the people’s patriotic fervor.

Watching the memorial flame burning in the rain, I bowed to pay respect to all those buried here. May heaven be free of suffering!

The rain persisted, and the solemn mood needed lifting. I’d promised to treat the father and daughter to a nice meal, so we decided on the Republic Red Mansion near Daxinggong. The elevator was tricky; we searched a while before finding it to the 55th floor. It was upscale – from the decor to the staff’s attire, it truly had a Republic-era feel. The dishes were pricey! I thought three people would cost around 500 yuan, but even with a discount it was over 600. But when you travel, you don’t count money – if you do, you might as well stay home, right?

Let me show you some signature dishes!

Doesn’t it have a Republican era charm?

This squirrel-shaped mandarin fish was truly delicious, the best dish. The sweet-and-sour sauce was made from fruits and vegetables – bits of pineapple and other fruits blended into the sauce. Crispy outside, tender inside – absolutely superb, worthy of being the top-recommended dish.

The black pepper beef cubes were also highly recommended. I, who don’t eat beef, even had two pieces. My daughter said it was excellent – basically, she just loves meat.

Huadiao chicken, Nanjing water eight immortals – all were specialties. When I saw this eel dish, I thought it was the sizzling shredded eel, but it turned out to be something called ‘soft pocket.’ Amused by the name, I ordered it. The only downside: the iron plate should have been sizzling hot, but it arrived cold, so the dish cooled quickly and lost its intended flavor.

We couldn’t finish the huadiao chicken, so we packed it up.

Eating this full every day – how can this go on? Let’s keep walking… off to Fuzimiao.

I didn’t buy anything except some Yuhua tea – just a pure stroll.

I made a point of photographing Wanqinglou. It felt completely different from before – the shop had expanded a lot. Vaguely, I could still recall the days when it was filled with fine food and wine, and scenes of singing and dancing.

Back home, still feeling stuffed, we rested a bit and then decided to head to Xuanwu Lake. In all my visits to Nanjing, I’d never actually been there. The map showed it wasn’t too far – walking along Beijing Road would also pass Jiming Temple. Good idea, let’s go!

Walking on Danfeng Street, I didn’t feel the charm of Nanjing at all. But once we turned onto Beijing Road, the vibe changed dramatically. Tall cedars practically hid the buildings on both sides, adding an inexplicable mystique.

This is Jiming Temple, right next to the Nanjing Municipal Committee and Government. I’d wondered what units occupied such nice surroundings, then I spotted the plaques hidden in the greenery. I really wanted to take a photo, but the armed police at the gate kept staring when I raised my phone. Chills ran through me – forget it, better safe than sorry.

Xuanwu Lake is huge! Following the navigation, we walked just a small loop but it took quite a while. We ended at Xuanwu Gate. My husband actually asked if this was the Xuanwu Gate from the infamous coup. Goodness, speechless – that was in Xi’an! Ah, talking history with a science type is like casting pearls before swine.

Xuanwu Gate at dusk was quite beautiful, wasn’t it? By then, our direction had completely shifted. We decided to bike to Lion’s Bridge to see if it was as lively at night as the legend said.

This is Yin’s Soup Dumplings – moderately crowded.

Nanjing Impressions was extremely crowded, packed with people waiting for tables. We’d thought of trying their plain noodles, but the scene was forbidding.

Lion’s Tower was said to be famous too, but we firmly decided not to have another big meal at night – satisfying the palate was not the only thing.

Sunday, still raining. Nanjing’s rain is like a gentle maiden – fine and dense, silent on the umbrella, without the ping-pong aggressive feel of the north. Strangest of all, each shower didn’t last long, with breaks in between. Quite fascinating.

It was cool when we set out, with just a few drops. We decided to ride three bikes straight to the Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum. Cycling was pleasant; but going uphill was totally unpleasant – we could barely pedal. Maybe it was our stamina, but by the Nanjing Museum we were exhausted, and with the rain suddenly thickening, we switched to walking.

Despite the rain, there were still many people. We waited a long time for the scenic shuttle. Gazing at the Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum through the Fraternity Archway, hidden among layers of greenery, one couldn’t help but feel solemn. Perhaps that was the builders’ intention – to awe you from the soul.

As we walked, I told my daughter about the mausoleum’s features, especially the famous stairs. Looking up, you see all the steps, symbolizing the tortuous revolutionary road. Looking down, you see only platforms, representing the broad vision of the great man. Many people count whether there are exactly 392 steps, but I didn’t – in the rain, I wasn’t about to torture myself.

The queue for the shuttle bus going down was unbearable, so to save time, we decided to walk. But fortune favors fools: just a short way down, we found two shared bikes – some kind soul must have ridden them up and left them for us mother and daughter. On behalf of the government and the people, I thank you! Riding down was pure bliss, no pedaling needed, just savoring the mountain breeze. Speaking of which, I really have to hand it to Nanjing Impressions. By the time we came down, just past 11 a.m., the entrance was already swamped with people. Thinking there was another branch in Deji Plaza at Xinjiekou, we decided to take the metro there.

After meeting up with Dad, we went up to the seventh floor, and the sense of defeat was not just a little – it was immense.

Look at all these people waiting for tables. Good grief...

Forget it, let’s go eat near home. There’s a century-old shop nearby we haven’t tried yet.

I have to show off this piano – on the first floor of Deji Plaza Phase 1. Very conceptual, right?

Nanjing at dusk was beautiful. After a day of rain, the air smelled fresh and clean. Thinking we’d leave tomorrow, I decided to search for where to buy delicious salted duck. It’s said that Zhangyun Pressed Duck has three shops, with demand exceeding supply daily. To get good duck, you have to go early. So we hopped on bikes for a duck-finding mission!

With GPS, we easily found the Pingshijie shop nearby. Sure enough, they were about to close – duck sold out. So we rushed to the flagship store on Shengzhou Road, hoping they’d still have some. You know, you have to taste before buying, or how could I vouch for it to friends and family? I bought a box at the flagship store but forgot to take a photo. It was really good, so we decided to come back first thing in the morning to buy more. Yes, duck mission accomplished.

It was still early, so we went to check out Laomendong.

Spotting a Deyunshe, I quickly snapped a photo, though I didn’t recognize any of the performers inside.

There’s an ancient city wall east of the Nanjing Museum, and another at the Xuanwu Lake entrance. The one at Laomendong must be the Zhonghua Gate.

While wandering, we found a very upscale bookstore – or rather, the building was upscale, with exquisite brick and wood carvings. Whoa...

One photo at the entrance, one indoors. God, forgive my terrible photography skills.

Turning out, I saw a guide. Lo and behold, it listed several famous shops I’d seen on variety shows. My mood instantly lifted – let’s find them.

This Blue Boss sugar lotus root porridge is famous, but sadly they were sold out today. I just bought a serving of sweet taro sprouts, which tasted similar to Nanjing Impressions’.

This dimly lit shop was the famous Xiao Zheng Crispy Biscuits. Rumor has it that people queue here at all times. I haven’t seen queues at other shops, but the Laomendong branch had a really long line – so long that it killed my appetite. They mainly sell duck-fat crispy biscuits, and the best fillings are said to be shredded radish and red bean paste. Maybe I’ll try them another day.

Right next to Blue Boss is Jiming Soup Dumplings. Besides chicken soup dumplings, their most famous is the chrysanthemum leaf soup dumpling – probably mixed with chrysanthemum leaves in the filling to balance the meat’s richness with a plant freshness. It was fine, but after trying so many soup dumplings in recent days, my taste buds were numbed, and nothing particularly stood out.

Monday, departure day. I woke up before 6 a.m. and went for breakfast nearby. Actually, I’d eaten breakfast at this place every day – Wang’s Wontons, not Wang’s Wontons (different character). There’s a famous Wang’s Wontons in Nanjing, but it’s near Yuhuatai, so we didn’t go. This shop specializes in old-style braised noodles, but I don’t like the dark soup, so I always had wontons. The neighboring Dong’s Potstickers were excellent – meat one day, veggie the next. I’d had them for days and never got tired, haha.

A small wonton was 6 yuan, very affordable; a serving of potstickers was 5 yuan; noodles were a few yuan more but still cheap. Nanjing breakfasts are a great value.

Off to buy duck by bike...

To get the freshest, we biked straight to the flagship store. It had just opened, so not too many people yet. Lucky we were early – when they get busy, they’re unwilling to chop and vacuum-pack each duck individually. It took about an hour to buy and pack everything. Actually, their roast duck is also famous, but overshadowed by the salted duck, so I didn’t get any.

The shop was small but packed with customers. Doesn’t it look tempting?

Dun-dun-dun-dun (Cue Beethoven’s 5th)

Know what this is? It’s what they call ‘the blessed don’t need to hustle.’ Hahaha...

While waiting for the duck, I suddenly noticed that two shops down was Xiao Zheng Crispy Biscuits. No queue at this hour! The biscuits were fresh out of the oven. Too bad they had no red bean paste, so I just bought shredded radish and salt-and-pepper ones. Crispy and fragrant – what luck!

Goodbye, Nanjing! But when will we meet again? Fifteen years is a long time. Whether for a city’s transformation or a person’s growth, a lot can change in that span.

To quote Grey Wolf: Wait for me, I will definitely come back!!!