A Multi-Sensory Niushou Mountain – The Forecourt of the Buddha's Summit as a Prelude

Travel date: March 2021

Getting there: Self-drive

Address: Niushou Mountain Scenic Area, Nanjing

Admission: 98 RMB

Park route: East Gate – Forecourt of the Buddha's Summit – Foding Temple – Ming Dynasty Cliff Carvings – Niutou Zen Cultural Park – Foding Pagoda – Foding Palace – Wuyoumen Square – Forecourt of the Buddha's Summit – East Gate

Nanjing has long had the saying, 'Spring Niushou, autumn Qixia.' I used to scoff at this. Qixia, of course, is famous for Qixia Temple. Many group activities go to Qixia, so every five or six years I'd visit. Niushou Mountain? I'd only passed by once about twenty years ago while visiting graves—just a mountain, I thought. So I couldn't understand the saying. This year, as medical staff enjoy a park pass discount, a colleague suggested a trip to Niushou and we immediately organized a group outing. Niushou Mountain, here we come, with curiosity and doubts.

We parked in the underground lot. The crowds and cars already showed the 'Spring Niushou' vibe. The elevator from the parking lot took us directly to the ticket hall, where we used our ID cards and park passes at the window.

The ticket hall was spacious, well-equipped, with self-service ticket machines, receipt machines, ATMs... Outside, there were many convenient facilities: a free mask dispenser by the convenience store, a Red Cross aid station. The scenic area has complete, high-standard amenities.

A long exhibition board introduced the panoramic tourism of Jiangning. It gave an overview of Niushou Mountain: Located in Jiangning District, Nanjing, Niushou Mountain is composed of Niushou Mountain, Zutang Mountain, Jiangjun Mountain, East Tianmu Ridge, West Tianmu Ridge, Yinlong Mountain, and many other peaks. Niushou Mountain is a famous Buddhist mountain in China, with profound cultural heritage, and is the founding place and cradle of the Buddhist Niutou Zen sect. Around the mountain are natural sights like Sensing Spring, Tiger Running Spring, White Turtle Pond, Doushuai Rock, Manjusri Cave, Pizhi Cave, Hanxu Pavilion, Gushing Spring, and Watering Horse Pond, as well as cultural attractions such as Hongjue Temple, Hongjue Pagoda, Zheng He's Tomb, and the Jin-dynasty Fortress. With so many sites, it's impossible to visit them all, so the map outlines several recommended routes.

At the ticket-check entrance. Since the pandemic, only the East Gate is open for entry and exit. A light rain fell but didn't dampen the enthusiasm for 'Spring Niushou.' Many tour guides with flags led groups. It seems Spring Niushou is a nationally renowned sightseeing destination.

No single photo could capture the entire ticketing and check-in area.

The inner square at the East Entrance. Looking back from the square, the entrance building is grand and distinctive, like a great bird spreading its wings.

On one side, a recommended route map is even clearer. We chose the highlight route.

Before the inner square lay a green lake—Tingxin Lake (Heart-Stopping Lake). Mist rose from the surface, creating a fairyland-like natural scene. Colorful fish frolicked in the clear water. This beautiful mountain-lake scenery has a lovely name: Forecourt of the Buddha's Summit.

A light cloud-mist veiled the lake, like a graceful fairy gently caressing the landscape with her gauzy skirt.

We walked along the north side of Tingxin Lake, strolling in the drizzle. We didn't use umbrellas, letting the fine rain caress us. The air was especially fresh and moist, seeping into our hearts and lungs. Every scent was vivid—the smell of soil, grass, flowers, the mist over the lake... I greedily took deep breaths, trying to hold onto them.

Among the green, clusters of tiny white flowers looked elegant from afar, delicate up close. Searching, I found this beautiful flower has a very apt name—pearl spirea.

Plum blossoms were in bud, waiting to bloom.

Throughout the Niushou Mountain scenic area, every few steps there was a cute, amiable statue of a little monk. Each had a different facial expression; looking closely was endlessly fascinating.

The long pavilion had a beautiful name—Yumei Xuan (Jade Plum Pavilion).

People working on the lake.

A small path paved with bluestone on the north shore led up to a hillock where there was a peach orchard, but it was still too early for blossoms.

A five-arch bridge spanned Tingxin Lake, called Jixian Bridge (Bridge of Gathered Worthies), with gracefully curved arches. It connects the east and west sides of the Forecourt of the Buddha's Summit.

The bridgehead was decorated with cloud-pattern lion motifs, praying for peace and good fortune. The balustrades featured openwork carvings of ruyi clouds, making the bridge more airy and beautiful.

Looking from the bridgehead, the early spring reeds and tree trunks had a beauty of weathered time.

In the distance, Niushou Mountain was dark as jade; underfoot, the lake water was crystal clear.

The scenery was beautiful and secluded. Distant hills, faraway pagoda, near lake, open lawns, bamboo-lined paths, streams, rocks... together forming a graceful ink-wash painting of mountain and forest.

Overlapping peaks in the distance, lush grass and trees up close, the murmur of flowing water—the scenery was intoxicating.

From another angle, a sense of spaciousness. Gazing silently at this scene, I suddenly realized: maybe 'stopping the heart' means we are meant to pause here, slowly take in the view, feel the things around us, and reflect on life.

Looking back toward the scenic area.

Small islands in the lake combined with wooden walkways, artfully arranged, winding and meandering.

The beautiful scenery became even more vivid with people in it.

We chose to cross Jixian Bridge to the south side of Tingxin Lake.

Walking alongside the lake, every step offered a new view. Soon we came upon a mural of the Ten Ox-herding Pictures on a rockery, created by Song Dynasty Chan Master Guo'an Shiyuan. The 'Ten Ox-herding Pictures' use ten scenes to depict the process of herding an ox.

Before the rockery lay a stretch of sesame-white stone with five stone oxen, each in a different pose.

Viewing Jixian Bridge from in front of the Ten Ox-herding Pictures.

Looking back at Tingxin Lake from Farong Square.

This large lawn plaza, a mix of yellow and green, spiraled downward in terrain. Along the slope, stone-lined channels with pebbles created rippling water and a gurgling sound. A tallow tree stood at the center. This plaza also had a lovely name—Heart Lotus Square. Not far away stood the solemn architectural complex of Foding Temple. Heart Lotus Square created a serene, natural scene before the temple.

The outermost circular path led us toward Foding Temple.

This is the first course of Niushou Mountain's scenery—the Forecourt of the Buddha's Summit—where natural mountains and waters are enhanced by man-made landscapes to showcase the mountain's profound multicultural heritage. The garden's overall scenery is grand and graceful, while the details are exquisite and elegant. It gave me a feeling of grandeur with understated refinement. I have a habit when writing travelogues: for a two-day trip, I usually introduce each scenic spot separately; for sights within Nanjing city, I tend to cover everything in one entry. When preparing this Niushou Mountain travelogue, seeing so many photos and content, I felt overwhelmed and didn't know where to start. So I had to write it as I would for an out-of-town trip. Thus, this first chapter of Niushou Mountain ends here. To be continued.