Multisensory Niushou Mountain (Part 2) – Contemplating at Ease in Front of Foding Temple

Time of visit: March 2021

Mode of travel: self-driving

Location: Niushou Mountain Scenic Area, Nanjing

Ticket: 98 yuan

Route within the park: East Gate – Fodingqian Garden – Foding Temple – Ming Dynasty Cliff Carvings – Niutou Zen Cultural Garden – Foding Pagoda – Foding Palace – Wuyoumen Square – Fodingqian Garden – East Gate

Beside Farong Square lies the renowned Foding Temple, embraced by the mountains. Its Tang-style architecture follows a traditional central-axis layout. Nestled among green hills, buildings rise tier upon tier, with layered eaves and upturned corners.

On the square in front of the temple, vigorous incense smoke in the burner carries people’s prayers and heartfelt good wishes. A stone-railed bridge connects the incense burner to the mountain gate, beneath which lies a release pond.

On both sides of the pond, ten dragon heads spout water; they represent Baxia, one of the nine sons of the dragon. At the bridgehead stand lifelike dragon sculptures.

Crossing the bridge and climbing the steps, a bronze incense burner stands at the center.

This is the mountain gate of Foding Temple. Above the gate, the name “佛顶寺” (Foding Temple) is inscribed in gilded characters, flanked by two imposing stone lions. I remember that when I passed by Niushou Mountain years ago, this temple didn’t exist. It was rebuilt as a cultural site, construction starting in 2012 and fully completed in 2015. Historically, a temple existed on Niushou Mountain as early as the early Southern Dynasties. By the Zhenguan reign of the Tang Dynasty, it had grown into a grand monastery called Foku Temple, the birthplace of the “Niutou Chan” (Ox-Head School) before Chan Buddhism. After the Northern Song, it was renamed Hongjue Temple. It was destroyed in wars during the Southern Song, revived in the Ming Dynasty, and then in 1856, during the Taiping Rebellion, it was razed, leaving the site without incense for a century. Now, in order to inherit traditional culture, the temple has been rebuilt. Because Niushou Mountain enshrines the Buddha’s crown relic in its underground palace, the temple is named Foding Temple (Buddha’s Summit Temple).

Looking back from the mountain gate,

after passing through the gate, the lofty complex of buildings comes into view. The temple is built against the mountain. A stone relief titled “The Buddha Preaching on Vulture Peak” stands in front, accompanied by a few pine trees. It depicts the scene of Shakyamuni Buddha expounding the Dharma at Vulture Peak. The main hall in the center is the Heavenly Kings Hall, with the Bell Tower and Drum Tower on either side.

On the east side between the mountain gate and the Heavenly Kings Hall stands a royal-style stele with three lions, and below it, a qilin (mythical creature) is carved on the ground. The craftsmanship is vivid and legendary.

The temple’s courtyard-style garden architecture is exquisite and detailed, full of life everywhere.

Lifelike expressions of mythical beasts

The Heavenly Kings Hall with its layered roofs

A back view of the Heavenly Kings Hall

Behind the Heavenly Kings Hall, at a higher elevation, stands the Mahavira Hall. A relief in front depicts the welcoming and enshrinement of the relics. Above the hall hang three plaques: the middle reads “万德庄严” (Adorned with All Virtues), one side “佛日增辉” (The Sun of Buddhism Shines Brighter), and the other “普度众生” (Delivering All Sentient Beings).

East of the Mahavira Hall is the Patriarch Hall.

West of the Mahavira Hall is the Samgharama Hall (Guardian Deity Hall).

Exquisite, heavy stone carvings

From the terrace in front of the Mahavira Hall, you can see the Heavenly Kings Hall flanked by the bell and drum towers. The morning bell and evening drum – in the morning, the bell is struck 108 times while the “Bell Verse” is chanted, praying for peace and prosperity and favorable weather.

Stern, tightly closed doors

Wishes for blessings can be seen everywhere.

The area behind the Mahavira Hall is currently closed off.

We could only glance upward from the sides of the Mahavira Hall. From here we descended back to the mountain gate. Foding Temple is built on the mountain slope, covering a large area, divided by function into five zones: worship, Dharma propagation, dining hall, monks’ quarters, and tea garden. Geographically, it is split into a north section and a south section. The north section is what we toured, including the worship and Dharma propagation areas. This part is mainly laid out in palace style, following the traditional “seven-hall” arrangement of a Chan Buddhist monastery. The area further up beyond the Mahavira Hall – the south section, comprising the tea garden, monks’ quarters, and dining hall – is currently not open to visitors. It’s a pity I couldn’t see all of Foding Temple in one visit. Perhaps, like many things in life, it’s hard to take it all in at once.

From this angle, the Mahavira Hall appears even more massive.

The greenery and landscaping in the temple are also exquisitely done, brimming with Zen atmosphere. Spotting these cute little monk figurines filled me with childlike delight.

Leaving the temple complex, we strolled through the beautiful park, with pink peach blossoms and green bamboo refreshing the heart and eyes in spring.

The majestic Foding Temple memorial archway

Clear signposts guided us on.

This is the park bus stop, where you can catch a ride to scenic spots within the park.

We all agreed to continue on foot. By now the rain had completely stopped, and we walked on refreshed after the rain. Breathing the crisp mountain air, listening to the sound of the wind rustling through the trees, it was wonderful to be in nature.

Along the way, we looked up and saw clusters of buildings on the ridge – that’s the south section of the temple, which we couldn’t visit.

From here we can see the twin pagodas rising among the mountains ahead – that is our next destination. Keep following my footsteps!