Spring 2021 Trip to Yancheng, Xinghua, Huai'an, Xuyi, and Nanjing
In March, spring was in the air. My wife and I set off from Yancheng, Xinghua, Huai'an, Xuyi in northern Jiangsu, then to Nanjing, spending eight days admiring the spring beauty of Jiangnan and savoring Huaiyang cuisine.
Day 1: Guangzhou – Yancheng
We took a China Southern Airlines flight from Guangzhou to Yancheng. After arriving, we took a taxi to the hotel, had lunch at the nearby Huaiyanglou restaurant, then walked to the New Fourth Army Memorial Hall. Later, we took a bus to the former site of the rebuilt New Fourth Army headquarters, the China Sea Salt Museum, and the Water Street. Accommodation: Yancheng Slow Life Hotel
In the morning, we flew to Yancheng Airport by China Southern Airlines.
We took a Didi from the airport into the city and checked into the pre-booked Slow Life Hotel. The hotel is well-located, with the famous time-honored Huaiyanglou restaurant right downstairs.
After dropping off our luggage, we headed straight to Huaiyanglou for lunch. Huaiyanglou is a famous old restaurant in Yancheng. Huaiyang cuisine is one of China's four great culinary traditions, originating from Yangzhou and Huai'an. It emphasizes ingredients from rivers and lakes, top-notch culinary skills, natural flavors, and a harmonious, refined, light, and fresh philosophy. Yancheng, located in northern Jiangsu and bordering Yangzhou and Huai'an, belongs to the Huaiyang cuisine region.
The 'Huaiyang Ruan Dou' (soft eel) is a local delicacy, actually made from eel, and it was delicious.
The red-braised lion's head meatball is a signature Huaiyang dish. One thing about dining in northern Jiangsu is the generous portions – two people dared not order too much, or it would go to waste.
Yancheng New Fourth Army Memorial Hall
After lunch, it was about a 10-minute walk from the hotel to the New Fourth Army Memorial Hall. The memorial is a comprehensive museum dedicated to the history of the New Fourth Army in the War of Resistance against Japan. It consists of three parts: the main exhibition area, the Army-building Square, and the former headquarters site. Yancheng served as the headquarters of the New Fourth Army after its reorganization following the Southern Anhui Incident.
Yancheng New Fourth Army Memorial Hall
The National Revolutionary Army’s New Fourth Army, commonly known as the New Fourth Army, was a Communist-led anti-Japanese armed force and one of the predecessors of the People’s Liberation Army. After the outbreak of the War of Resistance in 1937, the Communist Party and the Kuomintang reached an agreement to reorganize the Red Army guerrilla forces in eight southern provinces into the New Fourth Army in October. Ye Ting was appointed commander, and Xiang Ying deputy commander. In January 1941, the Southern Anhui Incident occurred, and most of the New Fourth Army headquarters and its troops in southern Anhui were captured, scattered, or killed; Commander Ye Ting was detained during negotiations, and Deputy Commander Xiang Ying was murdered. The Nationalist government then revoked the New Fourth Army designation. The Communist Party responded by reorganizing the army headquarters, appointing Chen Yi as acting commander, Zhang Yunyi as deputy commander, and Liu Shaoqi as political commissar. The rebuilt New Fourth Army, following the Central Committee’s instructions, penetrated behind enemy lines in central China, waging guerrilla warfare and establishing base areas. Over eight years of war, the New Fourth Army engaged and pinned down 160,000 Japanese troops and 230,000 puppet troops, fought over 22,000 battles (including 19,000 against Japanese and puppet forces), and eliminated over 310,000 enemy combatants. It also conducted more than 3,000 defensive operations against diehard forces. The New Fourth Army suffered 89,000 casualties, growing from an initial 10,000 troops to a main force of over 215,000.
Yancheng New Fourth Army Memorial Hall
In the center of the square stands the Monument to the Rebuilt New Fourth Army Headquarters, with an inscription by Li Xiannian on the front and the text of 'Record of the Yanfu Reunion' by Huang Kecheng on the back.
Yancheng New Fourth Army Memorial Hall
Yancheng New Fourth Army Memorial Hall
Yancheng New Fourth Army Memorial Hall
Yancheng New Fourth Army Memorial Hall
Yancheng New Fourth Army Memorial Hall
Yancheng New Fourth Army Memorial Hall
Yancheng New Fourth Army Memorial Hall
Leaders during the founding period of the New Fourth Army
Yancheng New Fourth Army Memorial Hall
Yancheng New Fourth Army Memorial Hall
Leaders of the six detachments and advance column of the New Fourth Army before the Southern Anhui Incident
Yancheng New Fourth Army Memorial Hall
Yancheng New Fourth Army Memorial Hall
Yancheng New Fourth Army Memorial Hall
Leaders of the reorganized New Fourth Army headquarters after the Southern Anhui Incident.
Yancheng New Fourth Army Memorial Hall
Military and political commanders of the seven divisions under the new headquarters.
Yancheng New Fourth Army Memorial Hall
Yancheng New Fourth Army Memorial Hall
Yancheng New Fourth Army Memorial Hall
Handprint wall of New Fourth Army veterans.
Yancheng New Fourth Army Memorial Hall
Famous generals and leaders from the New Fourth Army
Former Site of the Rebuilt New Fourth Army Headquarters
The Taishan Temple in Yancheng. It was the headquarters of the New Fourth Army after its reorganization following the Southern Anhui Incident. It displays the former residences, artifacts, documents, and photos of leaders such as Liu Shaoqi and Chen Yi.
Former Site of the Rebuilt New Fourth Army Headquarters
Former Site of the Rebuilt New Fourth Army Headquarters
Former Site of the Rebuilt New Fourth Army Headquarters
Former Site of the Rebuilt New Fourth Army Headquarters
Former Site of the Rebuilt New Fourth Army Headquarters
Former Site of the Rebuilt New Fourth Army Headquarters
Former Site of the Rebuilt New Fourth Army Headquarters
Former Site of the Rebuilt New Fourth Army Headquarters
Former Site of the Rebuilt New Fourth Army Headquarters
Yancheng
In March, Yancheng enjoys gentle breezes and warm sunshine, with flowers in full bloom.
China Sea Salt Museum
Yancheng's Sea Salt Museum is a large thematic museum showcasing the long history and civilization of sea salt production in China.
China Sea Salt Museum
China Sea Salt Museum
As an open coastal city, Yancheng is rich in resources and boasts unique ecosystems. Its coastal tidal flats account for 67% of Jiangsu Province's total, making it the largest and most promising land reserve in the province, and its coastline accounts for 56% of the provincial total. With a salt-making history of over 2,100 years, Yancheng is the origin of the ancient salt culture along the lower Huaihe River and the Yellow Sea. Throughout history, sea salt culture has been the essence and soul of Yancheng, deeply rooted in the city's identity.
China Sea Salt Museum
The building's sculptural form, resembling white salt crystals, evokes the ancestral civilization of boiling seawater to make salt. The China Sea Salt Museum systematically presents the history of sea salt in China, showcases research achievements on sea salt culture, and houses historical relics and documents. Through wax figures, sculptures, dioramas, and other displays, it vividly recreates ancient salt-making techniques, such as brine boiling and solar evaporation, and the daily life of salt workers.
China Sea Salt Museum
China Sea Salt Museum
China Sea Salt Museum
China Sea Salt Museum
China Sea Salt Museum
China Sea Salt Museum
China Sea Salt Museum
China Sea Salt Museum
Water Street
Water Street
Water Street
Yancheng's Water Street area features many modern imitation ancient buildings and serves as the main scenic zone of the Sea Salt Historical and Cultural District. The area aims to highlight local cultural characteristics, where you can watch folk performances, taste local snacks, and buy tourism cultural products and specialty goods.
Water Street
Water Street
Water Street
Water Street
Water Street
Water Street
Water Street
Water Street
Water Street
Water Street
Water Street
Yancheng
That evening, we again dined at Huaiyanglou. We ordered a 'Dazhu Gansi' (braised shredded dried tofu), which came in a large bowl; the tofu shreds were like noodles, very tasty, but the portion was too big for the two of us to finish.
A steamer of shrimp dumplings arrived, large in size with juicy, flavorful fillings.
Day 2: Yancheng – Xinghua
Yancheng has many places to visit, such as the Red-crowned Crane Wetland Park and the China Elk Garden, but we weren't too interested. In the morning, we took a bus from the passenger station to Xinghua (about 2 hours). After checking into the hotel and dropping off luggage, we took a taxi (37.6 yuan) directly to the Xinghua Qianduo Rape Flower Scenic Area. Seeing the large crowds and the blazing midday sun, we decided to first take a taxi (30 yuan) to Lizhong Water Forest Park. After visiting there, we took another taxi (26.6 yuan) from the forest park to the Qianduo Scenic Area. After finishing, we took Tourist Bus 2 (3 yuan per person) back to Xinghua city and strolled around the old town. Accommodation: Motel Hotel, Xinghua
After breakfast at the hotel, we took a taxi to Yancheng Passenger Station and caught a bus to Xinghua, 28 yuan per person.
Upon reaching Xinghua, we checked into the Motel chain hotel in the old city.
From the hotel, we took a taxi to the scenic areas.
Qianduo Scenic Area
Lizhong Water Forest Park
Lizhong Water Forest Park is located near Shunsheng Bridge on Xingsha Road in Qianduo Town, Xinghua, Jiangsu Province, covering 1,050 mu (70 hectares) of forest. In May 2014, it was officially rated a national 4A-level tourist attraction, the first in Xinghua and the only high-grade scenic area approved in Taizhou that year.
Lizhong Water Forest Park
Lizhong Water Forest Park
Lizhong Water Forest Park
In the early 1980s, local cadres and residents developed the wasteland into grid-shaped plots, planting water-tolerant trees like pond cypress and metasequoia, intercropped with taro and oilseed rape. Today, over 100,000 trees have grown into a lush, vibrant waterside forest landscape.
Lizhong Water Forest Park
The Wobo Bridge in the scenic area: a stone bridge spanning the water, with pavilions soaring high.
Lizhong Water Forest Park
In March, northern Jiangsu awakens with life; it's the season of blooming rape flowers, as well as peach blossoms, cherry blossoms, and many other flowers—an absolutely gorgeous scene.
Lizhong Water Forest Park
Lizhong Water Forest Park
Lizhong Water Forest Park
Lizhong Water Forest Park
Lizhong Water Forest Park
Lizhong Water Forest Park
Lizhong Water Forest Park
The park has many visitor facilities, including winding boardwalks leading to secluded spots, and wooden tables and chairs offering rustic charm.
Lizhong Water Forest Park
Lizhong Water Forest Park
Lizhong Water Forest Park
Lizhong Water Forest Park
Lizhong Water Forest Park
Visitors can also enjoy the scenery on a bamboo raft.
Lizhong Water Forest Park
Lizhong Water Forest Park
The forest has a timber volume of 12,500 cubic meters, creating a unique waterscape where water lies within the woods, fish swim in the water, and birds inhabit the trees. Owls, wild ducks, egrets, black cuckoos, parakeets, magpies, and other birds and wildlife are numerous, with up to 60,000 birds at peak times. It is the largest man-made wetland forest ecosystem reserve in the Lixiahe region.
Lizhong Water Forest Park
Lizhong Water Forest Park
Lizhong Water Forest Park
Lizhong Water Forest Park
Qianduo Scenic Area
Less than 10 kilometers by taxi from Lizhong Water Forest Park is the Qianduo Rape Flower Scenic Area.
Qianduo Scenic Area
Qianduo Scenic Area
Qianduo Scenic Area
The Qianduo Rape Flower Scenic Area covers nearly 10,000 mu, with a core rape flower viewing zone of 4,600 mu. The landscape took shape 750 years ago. In this waterlogged land short of soil, ancestors dug mud from underwater and piled it up to create raised fields. Every spring, the planted rape blooms into a magnificent sea of golden flowers.
Qianduo Scenic Area
Qianduo Scenic Area
In the warm spring, the golden rape flowers bloom across the raised fields, like auspicious clouds dancing on the water or rosy clouds scattered on the earth. Standing amidst the boundless sea of flowers, you’ll be intoxicated by the fragrance carried by the breeze—a truly refreshing and breathtaking experience.
Every stack is covered in yellow flowers; every village and household is surrounded by them. Northern Jiangsu’s scenery rivals that of Jiangnan, and the most beautiful yellow flowers are in Xinghua!
Qianduo Scenic Area
Qianduo Scenic Area
Qianduo Scenic Area
Qianduo Scenic Area
Boats glide through the sea of flowers at Qianduo.
Qianduo Scenic Area
Qianduo Scenic Area
Visitors can take a boat to tour the rape flower sea, but note the boat ride is one-way only—you’ll need to walk back. When we arrived, it was peak season and the busiest time; the waiting area at the boat dock was packed, and you’d have to wait over an hour to board.
Qianduo Scenic Area
Qianduo Scenic Area
Qianduo Scenic Area
Qianduo Scenic Area
Qianduo Scenic Area
Qianduo Scenic Area
Qianduo Scenic Area
Qianduo Scenic Area
Qianduo Scenic Area
Qianduo Scenic Area
Qianduo Scenic Area
Qianduo Scenic Area
Xinghua Old Street
In the afternoon, we returned to Xinghua and explored the old street in the historic district. Xinghua is a county-level city under Taizhou in Jiangsu Province. Once known as Zhaoyang or Chushui in ancient times, it has a long history. The old street preserves many intact Ming and Qing dynasty buildings and former residences of historical figures.
Xinghua Old Street
Xinghua Old Street
Xinghua Song County Office
Xinghua Old Street
Xinghua Old Street
Smooth bluestone slab paths and the antique charm of the old street.
Xinghua Old Street
Xinghua Old Street
Xinghua Old Street
Xinghua Old Street
Xinghua Museum
Xinghua Museum
Xinghua
Day 3: Xinghua – Huai'an – Xuyi
In the morning, we tried Xinghua's morning tea. We spent the morning exploring the old town, then at noon took a bus to Huai'an (60 yuan per person). We had originally planned to spend more time in Huai'an, but due to a warm invitation from an army buddy, we only had about two hours to quickly visit a few major spots before heading straight to Xuyi. Accommodation: Dongchen International Hotel, Xuyi
In the morning, we found a time-honored eatery near the hotel to experience northern Jiangsu's morning tea culture and taste Xinghua's breakfast delicacies.
Xinghua
Xinghua
Xinghua
Xinghua
Xinghua
Xinghua
Xinghua
Zheng Banqiao's Former Residence
Xinghua is the hometown of Zheng Banqiao, a famous Qing-dynasty literati, and his former residence has become a tourist attraction.
Zheng Banqiao, originally named Zheng Xie, courtesy name Kerou, and pseudonyms Li'an and Banqiao, was from Xinghua, Jiangsu. He was a xiucai in the Kangxi era, a juren in the Yongzheng era, and a jinshi in the first year of Qianlong. He served as magistrate of Fan County and Wei County in Shandong with notable governance, then lived in Yangzhou selling paintings. He was a renowned painter, calligrapher, and writer, and a key figure among the 'Eight Eccentrics of Yangzhou'.
Throughout his life, he painted only orchids, bamboo, and rocks, calling himself the ever-blooming orchid, the ever-green bamboo, the everlasting rock, and the unchanging person. His poetry, calligraphy, and painting were hailed as the 'three perfections,' making him a representative literati painter of the Qing dynasty. He left behind the famous saying 'It's hard to be muddled,' and pursued a life where 'one would rather eat without meat than live without bamboo.'
Zheng Banqiao's Former Residence
Zheng Banqiao's Former Residence
Zheng Banqiao's Former Residence
Zheng Banqiao's Former Residence
Zheng Banqiao's Former Residence
Zheng Banqiao's Former Residence
Zheng Banqiao's Former Residence
Zheng Banqiao's Former Residence
Zheng Banqiao's Former Residence
Zheng Banqiao's Former Residence
Zheng Banqiao's Former Residence
Zheng Banqiao's Former Residence
Xinghua Sipailou
Dongyue Temple is a famous Daoist complex in Xinghua, located on East Street. Covering over 800 square meters, it was built in 1341 AD, with a history of over 600 years, and remains a well-preserved religious site.
Xinghua Old Street
Xinghua Song County Office
Well-preserved Xinghua county office
Li Yuan Boat Hall
Li Yuan Boat Hall
Li Yuan Boat Hall
Li Yuan Boat Hall
Li Yuan Boat Hall
Li Yuan Boat Hall
Adjacent to the county office is the private garden of Li Xiaobo, a Qing-dynasty salt merchant, known as 'Li Yuan' (Li Garden).
Li Yuan Boat Hall
Li Yuan Boat Hall
Li Yuan Boat Hall
The luxurious 'Boat Hall' is a testament to the opulent lifestyle of Qing salt merchants.
Li Yuan Boat Hall
Li Yuan Boat Hall
Li Yuan Boat Hall
Li Yuan Boat Hall
Sipailou
A Ming dynasty structure, 'Sipailou'.
A Ming dynasty structure, 'Sipailou'.
Inside and out, Sipailou displays 47 plaques dating from the Ming and Qing dynasties.
Sipailou
Sipailou
Sipailou
Xinghua Old Street
Zhuangyuan Arch
Xinghua Old Street
Xinghua Old Street
Xinghua Old Street
Xinghua
At 1 p.m., we took a bus from Xinghua Passenger Station to Huai'an.
Huai'an South Passenger Station. Huai'an is an important central city in northern Jiangsu, located at the confluence of the ancient Huaihe River and the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal. It is home to Hongze Lake, the fourth largest freshwater lake in China, and is a national historical and cultural city with over 2,200 years of history. Known as the 'Canal Capital' of China, it is, along with Yangzhou, a main birthplace of Huaiyang cuisine and one of the cradles of ancient culture in the Jianghuai region. We had planned to stay in Huai'an for two nights to explore it properly. Unexpectedly, a former comrade from the Guangzhou Naval Academy, who now works in Xuyi County under Huai'an, heard we were arriving that day and drove to the south station to insist on taking us to Xuyi. Unable to refuse such warm hospitality, we agreed. However, we asked them to first drive us around to quickly check off a few must-see spots in Huai'an.
Zhou Enlai Memorial Hall
Huai'an is a birthplace of talent, and also the hometown of Premier Zhou Enlai. The Zhou Enlai Memorial Hall is situated in Taohuayuan, outside the north gate of Huai'an. Completed on January 16, 1992, it bears an inscription by Deng Xiaoping and commemorative words from Jiang Zemin, Li Peng, Li Xiannian, and Yang Shangkun. The memorial is a grand site dedicated to Zhou Enlai, founding premier of the People’s Republic of China, and stands as a towering monument to his greatness.
Zhou Enlai Memorial Hall
Zhou Enlai Memorial Hall
The memorial grounds are vast, like a large park, and it would take at least one or two hours to see it fully. With limited time, we could only snap a photo at the entrance for a quick check-in.
Zhou Enlai Memorial Hall
Zhou Enlai Memorial Hall
The second stop in Huai'an was the Governor’s Canal Transport Administration Site Park in the city center. This is the official complex of the Ming and Qing dynasty governors who oversaw imperial canal transportation nationwide. It’s large-scale, well-preserved, and meticulously laid out.
Governor's Canal Transport Administration Site Park
From the Jin, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties, with Beijing as the capital, canals were further excavated to link Hebei and Shandong waterways with the Jianghuai region. Especially under Yuan emperor Kublai Khan, the Jizhou, Huitong, and Tonghui canals were dug, enabling the Grand Canal to run directly north–south, connecting major economic zones. This was another major transformation in China’s canal history after the Sui dynasty, establishing the basic route and scale of the Grand Canal and making the Ming and Qing eras the peak period of canal transport. Throughout history, the smooth flow of grain along the Grand Canal had a decisive impact on the political stability of feudal dynasties. Since the Sui and Tang, canal construction and efficient transport were always tied to consolidating imperial rule; each dynasty’s rulers sought to use the canal to control the empire. For centuries during the Ming and Qing, this site housed the Governor’s Canal Transport Administration, responsible for overseeing and expediting grain transport, including moving southern grain north and northern salt south.
Governor's Canal Transport Administration Site Park
The gate of the governor’s yamen features a pair of white alum stone lions, extremely rare in China. They are said to have been a tribute from Persia (now Iran) during the Yuan dynasty and hold great artistic value.
Governor's Canal Transport Administration Site Park
Governor's Canal Transport Administration Site Park
Governor's Canal Transport Administration Site Park
This large site was the main hall of the yamen, destroyed in the 1940s. The ruins of the governor’s hall still have 33 column bases.
Governor's Canal Transport Administration Site Park
Governor's Canal Transport Administration Site Park
Governor's Canal Transport Administration Site Park
China Canal Transport Museum
The China Canal Transport Museum is located behind the governor’s yamen ruins and is a national 4A-level tourist attraction. As the 'Canal Capital,' Huai'an built this museum to showcase canal transport culture. The governor's yamen site was a major archaeological discovery in 2002, and the museum combines with the ruins to present the relics and history of canal transport comprehensively.
China Canal Transport Museum
China Canal Transport Museum
China Canal Transport Museum
China Canal Transport Museum
China Canal Transport Museum
The museum has a total floor area of 6,300 square meters, with two floors above ground. The architecture follows Ming-Qing style with a '品' shaped layout. It displays ancient canal transport tools and artifacts, work and daily items from the governor’s mansion, letters, writings, and belongings of former governors and officials (such as Tang vice-premier Liu Yan, Song dynasty's Fan Zhongyan, Ming's Li Sancai and Shi Kefa, Qing's Shi Shilun, Qishan, Duan Qirui, etc.), as well as historical records, certificates, measures, and substitutes related to grain transport.
China Canal Transport Museum
China Canal Transport Museum
Zhenhuai Tower
Zhenhuai Tower
Zhenhuai Tower stands directly across from the governor’s yamen.
Zhenhuai Tower
Zhenhuai Tower
Zhou Enlai's Former Residence
Zhou Enlai's Former Residence is at No. 7 Fuma Lane, Huai'an District. It was where Zhou Enlai lived until age 12. In spring of 1910, he left home with his uncle to study in the northeast and never returned. In September 1978, the residence was restored to its state when he left. It opened to the public on March 5, 1979, covering a total area of 1,987.4 square meters. When we arrived that day, it was past 5 p.m. and the residence was closed.
Zhou Enlai's Former Residence
Zhou Enlai's Former Residence
Zhou Enlai's Former Residence
The security guard at the exit was understanding; at our request, he let us look around and take photos. This is a replica of the Xihua Hall at Zhongnanhai in Beijing where Premier Zhou lived.
Zhou Enlai's Former Residence
Zhou Enlai's Former Residence
Zhou Enlai's Former Residence
Zhou Enlai's Former Residence
Zhou Enlai's Former Residence
Huai'an
After hurriedly checking off three sights in Huai'an, our buddy drove us straight to Xuyi.
The hotel where we stayed in Xuyi. Xuyi County, under Huai'an, Jiangsu, has a history of over 2,230 years and is now famous as the 'Hometown of Crayfish'.
Some of our former comrades from the Guangzhou Naval Academy, three of whom settled in Xuyi after leaving the military, greeted us. After decades apart, the reunion was especially heartwarming.
That evening, they treated us to a warm local feast featuring Xuyi's famed crayfish, braised chicken, and other specialties.
Xuyi
Xuyi
Xuyi
Xuyi
Xuyi
Xuyi
Day 4: Xuyi – Nanjing
After breakfast, our friend drove us to visit the Ming Ancestors Mausoleum, and in the afternoon we took a bus to Nanjing. Accommodation: Nanjing
After breakfast at the hotel, our Xuyi buddies drove us to the famous Ming Ancestors Mausoleum.
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
The Ming Ancestors Mausoleum is on the west bank of Hongze Lake in Xuyi County. It contains the cenotaphs of Zhu Yuanzhang’s great-great-grandfather, great-grandfather, and grandfather, and the actual burial of his grandfather. After founding the Ming dynasty, Zhu Yuanzhang posthumously honored his great-great-grandfather Zhu Bailiu as Emperor Xuan, great-grandfather Zhu Sijiu as Emperor Heng, and grandfather Zhu Chuyi as Emperor Yu. In the 19th year of Hongwu (1386), he built the ancestral mausoleum, renovating and reburying the three generations. A sacrificial hall was added the following year, and in the 11th year of Yongle (1413), Zhu Di built a spirit gate and walls to complete the complex.
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
In 1680, the mausoleum and Sizhou City were submerged by a flood, lying under Hongze Lake for over 300 years. When the water level dropped in 1963, the site re-emerged. Centuries of erosion had leveled the tomb mound and destroyed most brick and wood structures, leaving only the spirit gate, main hall, side halls remnants, over 30 large column bases, and three brick-vaulted structures. Yet 21 pairs of stone statues along the spirit path remained largely intact. The wooden buildings were gone, with only the outer city wall and restored stone statues surviving.
Construction spanned nearly 30 years, following the Tang and Song imperial tomb layout. The rectangular mausoleum had three walls: an outer earthen wall (3 km), a middle brick wall (1.1 km), and an inner 'imperial city' with a main hall, offering hall, sacred kitchen, fasting rooms, storehouses, animal pavilion, and a jade belt bridge. Along the 850-meter central axis are 21 pairs of imposing stone statues: 2 pairs of qilin, 6 pairs of lions, 2 pairs of stone pillars, 2 pairs of horse officials, 1 pair of horses, 1 pair of horse-holding guards, 2 pairs of civil officials, 2 pairs of military officers, and 2 pairs of eunuchs. The largest weighs over 20 tons, the smallest over 5. These statues exhibit grand scale, exquisite craftsmanship, and a style distinct from the Fengyang imperial tomb and the Ming tombs, but closer to Song dynasty stone carvings.
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Three centuries asleep under the lake, waking to find stone statues standing.
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Submerged by the Huai for three centuries, the Ming Ancestors Mausoleum still boasts splendid views.
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Ming Ancestors Mausoleum
Xuyi
After the friendly tour of the mausoleum, they treated us to another local specialty lunch. Their hospitality was overwhelming. After lunch, we politely declined further invitations and hurried to Xuyi Passenger Station to catch a bus to Nanjing.
Xuyi
Day 5: Nanjing
Nanjing is my hometown. I came back to visit my 90-something mother. It drizzled all day, so we stayed in. Accommodation: Nanjing
Nanjing breakfast: soup dumplings and duck blood vermicelli soup.
In the light rain, we visited the Nanjing City Wall.
Construction of the Nanjing City Wall began in 1366 and was completed in 1393. Following the mountain and water layouts, it utilized natural terrain advantages. The capital wall stretches 35.3 kilometers, the longest city wall in China and the world, a masterpiece of ancient urban defense. As the pinnacle of Chinese military fortification and wall-building tech, in terms of historical, aesthetic, archaeological value, design, scale, and function, it is unmatched worldwide, and has been recognized by the World Record Association as the world's largest city wall.
The wall top is paved with bricks and features crenellations, with stone drainage channels. At intervals, drain holes in the base expel water from inside the city. This sturdy foundation and defense have kept it standing for over 600 years. The surviving 21.35-kilometer wall remains China’s largest brick city wall and is a national key cultural relic site. The extant wall is the Yingtian Prefecture city wall with 13 gates and 2 water gates, along with 13,616 battlements and 200 defensive huts. A bell tower and drum tower stand in the city center.
The Nanjing City Wall is a comprehensive masterpiece of ancient Chinese military defense and wall-building. In every aspect, it is unparalleled, a historic wonder on par with the Qin Great Wall.
The towering wall and ingenious sluice gates.
Day 6: Nanjing
Today we visited Zhonghua Gate, the Grand Bao'en Temple, Laomendong, and Fuzimiao to see Nanjing's sights. Accommodation: Nanjing
Zhonghua Gate Barbican
Zhonghua Gate Barbican
We explored Zhonghua Gate on the Nanjing City Wall.
Zhonghua Gate, originally named Jubao Gate, is one of the thirteen Ming city gates of Nanjing. Located at the south end of Zhonghua Road, facing south, it is the largest extant city gate in China, an outstanding example of ancient defensive architecture, and the best-preserved, most complex, and largest barbican in the world, reputed as 'the No.1 barbican under heaven.' Its rigorous layout and unique structure make it a precious resource for studying ancient Chinese military facilities.
Zhonghua Gate features a '目'-shaped inner barbican with three inner barbicans and four gateways. Between each pair of walls lies a barbican; each gate has double iron-reinforced doors and a portcullis that can be raised or lowered. The main gate has three levels and twenty-seven hideaway chambers for up to three thousand soldiers. The inner and outer Qinhuai River flow past east–west, with Changgan Bridge to the south and Zhenhuai Bridge to the north, making it the traffic hub of old southern Nanjing.
Zhonghua Gate Barbican
Zhonghua Gate Barbican
Zhonghua Gate Barbican
Hideaway chambers on the barbican
Zhonghua Gate was first built during the Yang Wu period and was originally called Jubao Gate. In 1931, the Nationalist government renamed it Zhonghua Gate, with Chiang Kai-shek’s inscription. In November 2012, the Nanjing City Wall, including Zhonghua Gate, was added to China’s tentative list of World Cultural Heritage sites.
