Departing from Shanghai, a 3-Day Nanjing Road Trip in 2014 (Presidential Palace, Ming Palace Ruins, Zhanyuan Garden, Confucius Temple, Laomendong)

The APEC meeting took place in Beijing from November 7 to 12, 2014, and government institutions in Beijing enjoyed a 6-day holiday. The newspaper I work for is based in Beijing, so as a Shanghai correspondent, I also had the chance to enjoy the APEC holiday. However, due to a relative's wedding banquet on November 8, this road trip had to be squeezed into the last three days of the holiday. The plan was to drive to Nanjing. The weather forecast had predicted light rain in many parts of the Yangtze River Delta, but cloudy in Nanjing. Yet the actual weather during the three days in Nanjing was terrible—mostly overcast. I've been to Nanjing over a dozen times, including three road trips in the past four years alone. Even so, there were still plenty of sights and fine buildings to "fill in the blanks." For instance, this was my first visit to the Presidential Palace and Zhanyuan Garden. Nanjing is an ancient capital of six dynasties, but many Shanghai residents find it less appealing than Hangzhou. In fact, an in-depth exploration of Nanjing is very rewarding. Especially for those interested in the history and architecture of the Republic of China era, Nanjing has many worthwhile places to see. The whole trip covered 688 km. Unusually, this Nanjing road trip ended in Suzhou. Because of my fondness for the time-honored Zhu Hongxing restaurant, on the way back to Shanghai I deliberately stopped at Changmen in Suzhou to savor Zhu Hongxing's freshly stir-fried eel silk noodles, served as a topping.

November 9, 2014 (overcast to cloudy, 9–15°C)

At 9:30, we set off from home in Pudong, Shanghai.

At 10:12, we arrived at the Jiangqiao toll gate on the Shanghai–Nanjing Expressway, having covered 29 km.

At 10:37, we reached the Anting toll gate, 49 km in, expressway toll 15 yuan.

At 11:01, we stopped at Yangcheng Lake service area for a break, total 86 km.

While passing Wuxi, a 2–3 km stretch of the expressway was littered with flying tissues.

At 12:19, we took a break at Douzhuang service area, 215 km in. Refueled with 92-octane petrol for 121 yuan, at 6.89 yuan/litre.

At 13:07, we arrived at the Nanjing toll gate on the Shanghai–Nanjing Expressway, 294 km, expressway toll 110 yuan.

After exiting the expressway, we first went to Liu Changxing’s shop near Weigang. Liu Changxing is a time-honored Nanjing brand, established in 1901.

On the streets of Nanjing, the plane trees form a delightful sight.

The Central Hotel, one of the few upscale hotels in Nanjing during the 1930s and 1940s.

Nanjing salted duck, 17.50 yuan per jin, significantly cheaper than in Shanghai.

To the east of the Central Hotel is the Jiangsu Art Museum.

To the north of the Central Hotel lies the Nanjing Presidential Palace scenic area, entry 40 yuan. In the early Ming dynasty, this site housed the Marquis Guide’s mansion and the Prince of Han’s mansion. During the Qing dynasty, it became the Jiangning Weaving Bureau, then the office of the Governor of Jiangnan, and later the office of the Viceroy of Liangjiang. In 1853, the Taiping army captured Nanjing and made it the Heavenly Capital. Hong Xiuquan built a vast Taiping Heavenly Kingdom palace (the Heavenly King’s Palace) here. After the Qing army retook Nanjing, they burned the palace buildings, and in the ninth year of the Tongzhi reign (1870), the Viceroy of Liangjiang’s office was rebuilt. On January 1, 1912, Sun Yat-sen was sworn in here as the provisional president of the Republic of China. Soon after the National Government was established in Nanjing in April 1927, it moved its offices here that September. On May 20, 1948, the National Government was renamed the Presidential Palace.

Two national heritage protection plaques can be seen just inside the gate.

The former site of Sun Yat-sen's provisional presidential office.

Xuyuan Garden within the scenic area.

To the west of the Presidential Palace scenic area is the 1912 District, composed of 17 Republican-era buildings and four plaza squares—"Republic," "Fraternity," "New Century," and "Pacific." Due to time constraints, I didn’t manage to visit it this time.

Walking west along Changjiang Road and past Beiting Lane, you’ll reach the former site of the National Art Gallery, now the Jiangsu Art Museum.

Opposite the former National Art Gallery is the Jiangning Imperial Silk Manufacturing Museum.

The Nanjing Library. Beside the library is the Carrefour store at Daxinggong, with an underground car park; visitors to the Presidential Palace can park here. A purchase of over 50 yuan at Carrefour entitles you to 1.5 hours of free parking.

That evening we tried Huiwei Duck Blood Vermicelli Soup. Over the past decade, Huiwei has opened more than 30 branches in Nanjing, making it a great place to sample the local delicacy.

On the restaurant wall are photos of Nanjing's main sights; anyone who has visited Nanjing will be familiar with them.

That night we checked into the Jinjiang Inn on Garden Road, near Nanjing Forestry University. A standard room A cost 159 yuan per night at the member rate. Total distance driven: 319 km.

November 10, 2014 (Nanjing weather: overcast, 10–17°C)

There are many places to eat near the hotel, including a Guihua Duck shop. Early in the morning, my wife went out and bought Qijiawan pan-fried dumplings and Nanjing salted duck, and we enjoyed a hearty breakfast in our room. It’s worth noting that Qijiawan-style potstickers have become almost synonymous with Nanjing beef potstickers, and they’re found everywhere—but many are not authentic. I found information about the genuine Qijiawan beef potstickers in the media, but didn’t manage to try them on this trip.

The photo below shows Jinjiang Inn on Garden Road, Nanjing Forestry University branch. Interestingly, two Jinjiang Inn branches share the same address—6–10 Garden Road—with the other being Jinjiang Inn Nanjing East Coach Station branch to the south. I chose the Forestry University one because the room rate was slightly lower and none of the rooms face the street, so it’s quieter at night. The only downside was that neither branch had many parking spaces, and parking on the street felt a little unsafe. Later, I spotted a parking garage at a China Resources Suguo supermarket just over 200 metres away; a helpful lad there let me park overnight for free.

The photo below shows the Jinjiang Inn Nanjing East Coach Station branch.

Ming Palace Ruins Park, free entry. The Ming Palace Ruins were designated a national key cultural relic site on May 25, 2006, by the State Council (sixth batch), classified as an ancient ruin from the Ming dynasty. It served as the blueprint for the Forbidden City in Beijing.

Zhongshan East Road cuts through the Ming Palace Ruins.

Some 200 metres west along Zhongshan East Road stands the Second Historical Archives of China.

Further west is the Zhongshan Hotel, the former site of the Lishishe (Motivational Club). Photography is allowed inside. The Lishishe site was listed as a national key cultural relic site on March 15, 2013 (seventh batch), as an important modern historical relic and representative building from 1929–1931.

Hailed as "Nanjing's Number One Garden," Zhanyuan Garden charges an entry fee of 30 yuan. The State Council designated Zhanyuan Garden a national key cultural relic site on May 25, 2006 (sixth batch), classified as ancient architecture from the Ming to Qing dynasties.