A Jiangnan Reverie: Suzhou, Nanjing (and a Side Trip to Tai'an)

Pre-trip tips:

1) Clothing – For a week-long trip, three or four outfits are enough. Pack casually – a long-sleeved jacket, a sun-protective layer, and some pretty dresses.

2) Food – Since it's a free-and-easy trip, I just wandered and ate wherever I ended up. Keep it casual.

3) Accommodation – By avoiding the Qingming Festival peak, accommodation was much cheaper. In Suzhou, it was 150 CNY per night (a lovely surprise: it was right inside the scenic area!). In Nanjing, it was 134 CNY per night.

4) Transport – About a week in advance, I booked all the connecting train tickets (Shenyang → Suzhou, Suzhou → Nanjing, Nanjing → Tai'an, Tai'an → Shenyang; total cost: 217 + 32.5 + 154 + 141.5 = 545 CNY).

For this trip to the Jiangnan region, I mainly stayed in the city centres, and got around by metro.

A special note: 1) Bring an umbrella (misty rain in Jiangnan – PS: I really did get rained on). 2) You can bring a pair of sunglasses to look cool.

3) Three rough itinerary maps are just for reference (the actual itinerary differed slightly).

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Now, let the journey begin!

Suzhou Station → Suzhou Center → Gate of the Orient → Jinji Lake → Pingjiang Road

Upon arriving in Suzhou at noon, I went straight from the station to Xiangmen metro station and checked into my accommodation. The place was cosy, elegant, and unexpectedly located right in the scenic area – I absolutely loved it. Highly recommended.

After a short rest, I thought I should still get out and explore, not waste any time. Having done my homework, I headed straight for Suzhou Center, a huge multi-storey shopping mall. The Gate of the Orient was very impressive.

Opposite Suzhou Center is Jinji Lake. In the evening, strolling along the lake as dusk fell was so relaxing – snapping photos, enjoying the breeze and the night views. It was a delightful experience.

After taking night photos, I went back to my accommodation on Pingjiang Road. Pingjiang Road is truly beautiful and so laid-back. You don't need to spend money; just walking and pausing is a joy. A perfect day – time to rest up early and recharge.

Suzhou Museum → Guanqian Street → Lingering Garden → Shantang Street

The hallmark of Suzhou is its classical gardens – all kinds of garden landscapes. Based on reviews, I chose two representative ones – Lingering Garden and Humble Administrator's Garden. I made reservations a day in advance. Since both are gardens, I suggest splitting them over two days so they don't feel repetitive.

After getting up early, I first visited the iconic Suzhou Museum (you need to follow their official account on WeChat and book ahead). From Pingjiang Road, you can walk to Suzhou Museum.

Museums everywhere are pretty similar, so I'll just attach a simple photo. I won't show everything – you get the idea, hehe.

Next was Guanqian Street, which is basically Suzhou's pedestrian street, full of shops and snacks.

Big ice cream scoop – 26 CNY per portion, with a second portion half price. I decisively shared the deal with a young lady and only paid 20 CNY. It was delicious, but the portion was huge; it took forever to finish.

Not very hungry, I just ordered two small snacks: a steamed corn bun and some shrimp.

Then I took a sightseeing bus to the next stop, the Lingering Garden. Dead tired, I rode for nearly an hour and finally arrived. This area is full of gardens, all connected. The sightseeing bus costs 3 CNY (coins only) and takes you everywhere – very convenient. The Lingering Garden was just okay, with a 40 CNY entrance fee. A quick stroll was enough.

Right outside the Lingering Garden lies Shantang Street, about a 10-minute walk away. You can also take a rickshaw (around 15 CNY). Shantang Street is quite similar to Pingjiang Road – artsy and full of atmosphere, with some quiet bars.

Finally, I took the metro back to Pingjiang Road – very handy. (Near the metro entrance there's a food market. I took a quick look; it's different from northern markets. Here, it's really just fresh produce – no cooked food or fruit, nothing ready to eat.)

Humble Administrator's Garden → Pingjiang Road

In the morning I headed to the Humble Administrator's Garden. You can walk there from Pingjiang Road. Unlike what I'd read online, the Humble Administrator's Garden and Suzhou Museum are actually right next to each other – neighbours, super close. Those who haven't been can plan them together. The entrance fee for the Humble Administrator's Garden is 80 CNY, and you also need to book a day in advance (probably due to pandemic measures).

I saw many art students drawing the garden and truly envied them. I watched for a while and secretly took lots of photos, hehe.

Pretty bonsai, and me with the flowers.

Then it was Pingjiang Road. Having been in Suzhou for several days, I hadn't really had time to explore it properly. Since I had a train to Nanjing that evening, I spent the afternoon soaking up the laid-back vibe of Pingjiang Road. (The 'Cat's Sky City' concept store is a great spot for a check-in photo.)

Back on Pingjiang Road, I first went to play with cats. So enjoyable – 39 CNY for unlimited time, and you can come and go as you please.

I bought a Pandora bracelet – really nice, pretty and unique.

A dog from a street-side house – so cute, I couldn't resist snapping a picture.

And now, the snacks I had on Pingjiang Road over these days: 'Dou Ke', 'Peach Blossom Spring', 'Ding Tai Xian'...

In the evening, I took a train of about an hour and a half and arrived in Nanjing, where I checked in.

Presidential Palace → Oriental Metropolitan Museum (Six Dynasties Museum) → Jiangsu Art Museum → 1912 District → Qinhuai River

It was about four or five bus stops to the Presidential Palace. The palace has free public Wi-Fi – connect and you can use it throughout the whole site.

Buying a ticket at the window costs 35 CNY; buying online on the spot costs 33 CNY.

Right next door to the Presidential Palace is the Oriental Metropolitan Museum (Six Dynasties Museum), entrance 30 CNY. Just bring your ID. So I popped in. Unlike Suzhou, where the focus is on gardens, Nanjing is all about museums. The art museum is opposite, so I visited that too.

After leaving, I planned to go to Qinhuai River for some street food. The bus stop happened to be right in the 1912 district, so I started wandering again. (Friendly reminder: 1912 district comes alive at night – it only opens for business at 5 pm every day.)

I had some snacks in the district.

Then I went to enjoy Qinhuai River.

Look, De Yun She!

Jiming Temple → Xuanwu Lake Park → Nanjing Museum → Fuzimiao → Laomendong

Early in the morning I set off for Jiming Temple. The roads on both sides are wide and lined with lovely greenery, with peach blossoms floating in the air – truly beautiful.

Jiming Temple has a one-way route; you can't turn back. The exit leads right into Xuanwu Lake Park (it wasn't in my plan, but when I spotted it, I promptly decided not to miss it).

Because the park is so huge, I took a sightseeing car – 30 CNY for a round trip, a real bargain. I got the front passenger seat, happy! This place is perfect for a spring outing; strolling around was so relaxing.

I hopped on my little yellow bike and rode to the Nanjing Museum (free, no ticket needed, just swipe your ID).

Then I took a bus straight to Fuzimiao.

Nanjing specialty: salted duck.

Live embryo egg ('huo zhuzi') – this one really scared me. I thought it was just two boiled eggs, but it turned out to be a nearly formed chick. I just couldn't stomach it.

Right next to it is Laomendong.

Nanjing Massacre Memorial Hall → Yun Brocade Museum → Librairie Avant-Garde (Wutaishan) → Yuejiang Tower → Little West Lake (hip area)

I arrived at the Nanjing Massacre Memorial Hall at 10 am, but it was too late – all entry slots for the day had been fully reserved. A bit of a pity to miss it. So be sure to book in advance (though teachers and medical staff can register on-site). This museum is free.

So I turned and went to the adjacent Yun Brocade Museum.

Next up: photo time at Librairie Avant-Garde (an iconic spot for artsy, elegant photos).

Then, Yuejiang Tower (I was a bit tired, so I didn't climb up).

I passed by a very distinctive city wall – it felt significant, so I took a quick snap.

There was still time, so I headed to the trendy Little West Lake. I searched for ages; it wasn't even marked on the map. Finally, I located it by asking at unique shops along the street.

In the evening, I took a train to Tai'an.

Arriving in Tai'an, I checked in → strolled at Tai'an University → Aegean Sea (shopping area) → Old Street

Tai'an University's sports ground, library (youth & vibrancy).

Yummy treats from the university.

In the early hours, I took a train back to Shenyang, ending a delightful journey.

HAPPY ENDING!!!

To be continued... looking forward to meeting a better me.