A Nanjing Local's Nanjing: Jiangbei's Renowned Doushuai Temple

Travel time: February 2021. Means of travel: self-driving. Attraction: Doushuai Temple, Shiziling Scenic Area, Laoshan Forest Park. Address: Shilong Road, Pukou District, Nanjing. Route: Sifang Contemporary Art Lake District (24 buildings, including Sifang Contemporary Art Museum) – Doushuai Temple in Laoshan Forest Park. Satisfied, I left Sifang Contemporary Art Museum, a trendy spot I had been following for a long time. Now I returned to today's original plan. A friend had mentioned coming to Laoshan Forest Park, and I imagined hiking. But later I learned their main destination was a temple—Doushuai Temple. I had never heard of a Doushuai Temple in Nanjing before; I only knew of the famous Qifo Temple in Laoshan, which I passed by during a Women's Day trip to Bulao Village. It was truly the first time I'd heard of Doushuai Temple. It is located in the Shiziling Scenic Area of Laoshan National Forest Park in Pukou District, Nanjing. Arriving at a gate, I thought I had to park the car in the parking lot. But on a whim, I drove up to the gate and asked, and it turned out I could drive further into the mountain. After passing the gate, the car was on a narrow mountain road.

A narrow concrete road wound through the forest, just wide enough for one car and difficult for passing. Fortunately, we met no oncoming traffic, only several groups of hikers—apparently all enthusiasts trekking Shiziling. Along the road were green bamboo and tea gardens; we rolled down the windows to breathe the fresh mountain air.

While driving on the forest path, my friend told us about the history of Doushuai Temple. He first explained the characters 'Doushuai.' I found the pronunciation peculiar and figured there must be a story. Sure enough, he said 'Doushuai' is a transliteration of a Sanskrit word from Buddhist scriptures, meaning 'contentment and joy arising from satisfaction.' There is another special thing about Doushuai Temple: it's a 'three-no' monastery—no begging for alms, no business operations, and no admission tickets, following that very principle. This has been practiced since Master Yuanlin became abbot. Master Yuanlin entered Doushuai Temple at age 32 and, after over 20 years of dedicated effort, restored the temple's halls one by one: Tianwang Hall, Sutra Library, Daci Hall, and the halls of the Three Sages, Samantabhadra, and Manjusri. He also built the Daci Pagoda on Wolong Ridge, which became a landmark among the peaks of Laoshan. Hearing this, I felt the deep mystery of Doushuai Temple hidden in the remote mountains.

We drove on the forest road for quite some time; I was really glad we had driven in, as walking would have been very far. Doushuai Temple is built on the mountainside. A stone stele on one side marked its identity, and two stone lions greeted us. We parked the car in a parking lot on a flat area.

After parking, I took in the scene. Another remarkable thing about Doushuai Temple: it has no formal entrance gate and no boundary walls; it is completely embraced by the forested hills of Shiziling.

Between the stone steps on both sides were relief carvings of auspicious clouds and soaring dragons. Ascending the steps, I reached the first courtyard—the Tianwang Hall.

Behind the Tianwang Hall was a life-release pond, and beyond that stood the main building of the second courtyard, the Mahavira Hall.

Further up the stone steps led to another platform. Even though Doushuai Temple is remote and the road is long, as a temple, however quiet, it always attracts visitors and worshipers. They devoutly burned incense, placing their hopes in the smoke.

The Mahavira Hall is the core building of the temple.

I walked around to the side of the Mahavira Hall.

On one side, a tall staircase led further up.

Climbing the stairs, I came to another platform, where there was a porch on one side.

Entering through this door, I returned to the main buildings of the temple to continue wandering.

Behind the Mahavira Hall was a platform where two stone lions guarded the Sutra Library.

The third courtyard behind the Mahavira Hall was the Sutra Library.

From the platform in front of the Sutra Library, one could see the grandeur of this temple. It sits in the heart of Shiziling, secluded in the deep mountains, tranquil and serene.

The temple now has dozens of halls and rooms. The entire complex follows the terrain, rising and falling in an irregular pattern.

Around the temple stretches an endless expanse of deep mountain forest. Here, one experiences true tranquility—the poetic realm of bird song and mountain quiet.

The Mahavira Hall below the stone steps.

In this solemn place amidst the forest, the single character 'Buddha' calms the heart.

The halls of Doushuai Temple include ones with red walls and red tiles, and many others are painted a bright yellow.

Compared to temples in many tourist spots, it is neither lavish nor imposing, but it exudes a rustic simplicity. The alleys around the buildings feel like the lanes of a neighboring village.

All the halls of Doushuai Temple are simple, single-story structures in the monastic style, without any sense of splendor, preserving a natural and authentic character.

Under the light and shadow, it felt especially warm.

Walking here, up and down, strangely I heard no chanting, but it made me unconsciously calm down and settle my mind. Perhaps this is just what 'having Buddha in the heart' means—such an atmosphere and state!

The standard set of incense burner, pagoda, and hall.

The side hall was the exquisite 'Three Sages Hall'.

In early spring, could this plant with white blossoms be a cherry tree?

Imagine the pure heart and few desires required to live here!

This is another gate of the temple; passing through it, you leave the main cluster of buildings.

Looking back from this side, the lintel bore the name 'Doushuai Temple'.

On the opposite hillock stood a stone tablet inscribed 'Amitabha,' and there were also houses built against the mountain slope.

Here a small pavilion stood, and beside it a narrow mountain path led further up. From below I had seen the pagoda on Shiziling from a distance, and curious to get a closer look, I asked a local person at the Tianwang Hall entrance. They told me that behind the temple there was a mountain path leading up to the Daci Pagoda. This was the path.

Without hesitation, I started climbing. My two friends hesitated, discussed briefly, and then followed.

From Doushuai Temple to the Daci Pagoda was a rough mountain path, a truly wild trail without steps, flanked by dense woods and crisscrossing branches. Now I recalled the groups of hikers I'd seen when driving in—they must be the ones who trekked over this mountain on this very trail. The slope was steep, nothing like the well-equipped tourist trails of Zijin Mountain that we often visit, but perhaps this very wildness made it more appealing.

My friends helped each other climb up.

Reaching the top: in fact, this wild trail wasn't long, just steep, which made it seem higher.

Looking up at the Daci Pagoda built on the summit, a concrete and masonry structure.

Inside was enshrined a Buddha statue; it was a seven-story hollow pagoda.

I walked around the pagoda.

Since it was hollow, I couldn't climb up for a wider view. Feeling a bit reluctant, I found a large boulder to stand on, wanting to experience the grand feeling of 'all mountains in a glance.'

Unfortunately, the forest here was too dense; branches blocked any view of the outside world.

I could only take one more look at the Daci Pagoda before heading down.

As the saying goes, 'Going up is easy, coming down is hard,' and this mountain path proved it. But with my sturdy build and strong legs, I quickly made my way down, returning to the parking lot in 13 minutes. I stood in the mountain breeze waiting for my two companions.

The mountain breeze in the evening had a chill. While waiting for my companions, I had time to pause and reflect. We who rush about in the city step into this quiet Zen forest, surrounded by ancient trees. The temple's serenity touched me, bringing peace and gratitude. The purpose of walking is to discover the scenery along the way. I am a person who loves to walk, but even in this city I know well, there are still many places I haven't set foot. Scenery is not only in distant lands, but in my own heart and eyes. In the beautiful city of Nanjing, we walk, experience, and discover its endless charm.