Nanjing Travel: A Three-Day, Two-Night Journey Through the Ancient Capital

Life is a train bound for the grave, with many stations along the way. It’s rare to have someone ride with you from start to finish. When the person accompanying you has to get off, even if you’re reluctant, you should be grateful and wave goodbye.

The sudden pandemic changed our lives. We go out wearing masks, can't leave the country, and our passports are almost gathering mold. But because of the pandemic, major airlines launched various 'Fly As You Wish', 'Happy Flying', and 'Weekend Getaway' deals, making us fly more and more.

Thinking of taking advantage of the Fly As You Wish deal before it expires, I decided to visit the ancient capital of six dynasties—Nanjing. To find authentic duck blood vermicelli soup, to sample all the pastries in Jinling (another name for Nanjing), and to try all the local snacks. I believe there's always a reason that will make you fall in love with Nanjing without hesitation. So, follow me to explore this ancient capital of six dynasties.

Day 1: Fuzhou → Shanghai → Nanjing South → Check in at Nanjing Jin Jiang Metro Confucius Temple Qinhuai Classic Hotel → Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum → Qinhuai River & Confucius Temple area

Day 2: Xuanwu Lake → Nanjing Museum → Nanjing Yuhuatai → Qinhuai River

Day 3: Zhongshan Ling (Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum) → Nanjing Imperial Examination Museum → Fuzhou

Accommodation Recommendation: Nanjing Jin Jiang Metro Confucius Temple Qinhuai Classic Hotel

Choosing the right accommodation in Nanjing is essential, with convenient transportation and easy access to attractions. This time we chose the Nanjing Jin Jiang Metro Confucius Temple Qinhuai Classic Hotel, which is very convenient to get anywhere, especially to the Qinhuai River and Confucius Temple, just a five-minute walk away.

The hotel is located in the bustling area of the city, in the core zone of Nanjing Confucius Temple. It is the top choice for sightseeing and business trips! Transportation is convenient, with metro, taxis, buses, and carpooling all available to ensure your mobility. There are also various authentic foods and many places to visit, letting you enjoy eating, drinking, and having fun to the fullest!

The overall decoration leans toward a new Chinese style, understated yet luxurious, simple and elegant. Rooms are clean and comfortable, service is warm and friendly, and the breakfast is rich with local specialties. The hotel has complete supporting facilities, making it a super cost-effective place to stay. Although the hotel is in a busy area, it still offers a pocket of tranquility—I really like such a place.

The toiletries are quite good, all from Herborist. The complimentary osmanthus black tea and rose green tea are exceptional—truly delicious. The rooms and amenities are comparable to a five-star hotel, with affordable prices, five-star quality and service, super cost-effective.

The breakfast restaurant is on the lower ground floor, spacious and bright, with luxurious decor, making it feel very comfortable. It offers a buffet breakfast from 7 a.m. to 10 a.m., with a wide variety of dishes, including Nanjing specialties. Don't forget to mention that the breakfast here is great!

Nearby recommended check-in spots: Ancient Qinhuai Confucius Temple Pedestrian Street: Take a boat ride on the Qinhuai River at night, enjoy the night scenery on both banks—twinkling lights and bustling crowds, so delightful! Confucius Temple: Explore the 'Dacheng Hall' temple of ancient thinker and educator Confucius, and feel his lifelong contributions to ancient Chinese culture—learn while sightseeing! Nanjing Wacky Stress Relief House: A stress relief place on the edge of imagination—seemingly wild but really helpful for relieving urban pressure. Very effective. Address: 538-542 Taiping South Road, Nanjing City, Jiangsu Province, close to Confucius Temple. Directions: 200 meters straight from Exit 2 of Confucius Temple Metro Station, about a 4-minute walk. Price: Basic rooms start from around ¥400/night, varying by season.

Nanjing Museum: A Witness to History

Nanjing Museum, also known as a national-level museum, is a comprehensive museum integrating historical and artistic treasures. Its exhibition halls are rich and dazzling, well worth a visit. Each precious piece seems to tell you a vivid story of history!

The museum is divided into six major sections: History Hall, Digital Hall, Art Hall, Intangible Cultural Heritage Hall, Special Exhibition Hall, and the Republican Era Hall. Personally, I prefer the Republican Era Hall—it's the best photo spot. You can wear Republican-era costumes for a more authentic feeling. Stepping inside feels like traveling back a hundred years, highly immersive.

I suggest getting an electronic guide at the entrance, so you can listen to explanations while exploring, to better understand the stories of a hundred years ago and avoid just being a 'passerby visitor'! Also, remember to make a reservation on the official WeChat account in advance!

Due to lack of prior knowledge, we went to the museum on Monday and found it closed, so we could only take some aerial photos. Actually, the museum is open on Monday mornings, but closed in the afternoon. Tickets: from ¥35/person. Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday 09:00–17:00. Address: No. 321 East Zhongshan Road, Xuanwu District, Nanjing (near Hanfu Street). Transportation: By car, with parking; bus routes 36, 34, 9, 5, or 202, get off at Zhongshanmen Station; or metro line 2 to Minggugong Station.

By the Qinhuai River: Nanjing at Night

Qinhuai River: The song 'Qinhuai Scene' pulls my thoughts back to 'The Flowers of War', to the poignant scenes of that war movie. The version sung by twelve courtesans deeply moved me.

A Jiangnan ditty perfectly portrays the flourishing Qinhuai River in Jinling. You must come to see the beautiful scenery described in the lyrics with your own eyes, and at the same time, it gives us a deeper understanding of this ancient capital of six dynasties—Nanjing!

The Confucius Temple Qinhuai Scenic Area refers to the area centered on the Confucius Temple buildings, with the Qinhuai River as the link, stretching from Dongshuiguan Huaiqing Bridge Qinhuai Water Pavilion in the east, across Wende Bridge, to Zhonghua Gate Fortress extending to Xishuiguan along the Inner Qinhuai River, including the streets, residences, nearby historical sites, and scenic spots along both banks. It is the most bustling part of Nanjing.

It includes Zhan Garden, Confucius Temple, Bailuzhou, Zhonghua Gate, as well as the Qinhuai water touring boats and riverside pavilion landscapes from Taoye Ferry to Zhenhuai Bridge. It integrates historical sites, gardens, painted boats, market streets, pavilions, and folk customs. There are also Qinhuai night markets, Jinling Lantern Festival, folk attractions, and local snacks.

Especially the Qinhuai River in front of the Confucius Temple is very lively at night—you must come to see the beautiful night scenery. The pool in front of the temple is generally called 'Panchi.' In the state of Lu, the academy was located beside Pan water. In the Zhou Dynasty, 'the emperor’s school was called Yong, the feudal lords’ school was called Pan,' a custom that continued later.

Before the temple was built, a section of the Qinhuai River flowing through the square was converted into a Panchi, making the Confucius Temple the only one among China's Confucian temples to use natural flowing water as a Panchi.

Nanjing Confucius Temple, also known as Nanjing Confucian Temple and Nanjing Wen Temple, is located on Gongyuan Street on the north bank of the Qinhuai River in the Qinhuai District of Nanjing, west of Jiangnan Gongyuan. It is dedicated to Confucius and is one of the four great Confucian temples in China. It was the cultural hub of ancient Jiangnan and a gathering place of Jinling's history and culture. Not only was it the educational center of Nanjing during the Ming and Qing dynasties, but it also stood atop the southeastern provinces as a complex of cultural and educational buildings. It is now an important part of the Confucius Temple Qinhuai Scenic Area.

The Confucius Temple is a large-scale ancient architectural complex, mainly comprising three major groups: the Confucian Temple, the Imperial Academy, and the Examination Hall, covering a vast area. It includes the Screen Wall, Panchi, Pailou (archway), Juxing Pavilion, Kuixing Pavilion, Lingxing Gate, Dacheng Hall, Mingde Hall, Zunjing Pavilion, etc. The Confucius Temple is renowned as a Qinhuai scenic spot and has become a characteristic sightseeing area of ancient Nanjing. It is the largest traditional ancient street market in China, alongside Shanghai City God Temple, Suzhou Xuanmiao Temple, and Beijing Tianqiao as China's four bustling markets. Dacheng Hall is the main hall of the temple, 16.22 meters high, 28.1 meters wide, and 21.7 meters deep. Inside, a huge portrait of Confucius, the largest in China, hangs in the center (6.50 m high, 3.15 m wide). The hall displays fifteen kinds of ancient ritual musical instruments like bianzhong and bianqing, replicas from 2,500 years ago. Regular ancient and elegant music performances are held, along with a large Ming Dynasty ritual music and dance that reflects the way of honoring Confucius in the Ming era, letting audiences hear the sounds of bells, drums, qin and se from the Spring and Autumn period, recreating the ancient music scene from over two thousand years ago. Tickets: No admission fee. If you want to cruise the Qinhuai River, it is recommended to buy a night cruise ticket starting from ¥80/person, or day cruise ticket from ¥60/person. Address: Panchi Boat Pier, Qinhuai Scenic Area Pedestrian Street, Qinhuai District, Nanjing. Transportation: Metro Line 3 to Confucius Temple Station, Exit 2, and walk about 500 meters.

Jiangnan Royal Garden: Xuanwu Lake

When you come to Nanjing, besides the Qinhuai River, Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum, and Ming Xiaoling, you must not miss Xuanwu Lake. Hangzhou has West Lake, and Nanjing has Xuanwu Lake. Although its fame is not as great as West Lake, Xuanwu Lake is still well worth a visit.

Xuanwu Lake is located in Xuanwu District of Nanjing, with the Purple Mountain to the east, the Ming city wall to the west, Nanjing Railway Station to the north, and Fuzhou Mountain to the south. It is the largest inner-city park in the Jiangnan region and the largest imperial garden lake in China, the sole remaining imperial garden of Jiangnan, known as the 'Pearl of Jinling,' also called Houhu (Rear Lake) or Beihu (North Lake).

It is said that the human history of Xuanwu Lake can be traced back to the pre-Qin period. During the Six Dynasties, it became a place for the emperor to review the navy and was developed as an imperial garden, with royal palaces like Hualin Garden and Leyou Garden built on the southern shore.

During the Northern Song Dynasty, the prefect of Jiangning, Wang Anshi, 'abolished the lake and turned it into farmland,' causing Xuanwu Lake to disappear for over two hundred years. In the Yuan Dynasty, after two dredgings, Xuanwu Lake reappeared. In the Ming Dynasty, it was set as the Houhu Yellow Register Warehouse, a royal forbidden area. During the late Qing Dynasty Nanyang Industrial Exposition, Fengchun Gate (now Xuanwu Gate) was opened, and Xuanwu Lake became a tourist area. In August 1928, the 17th year of the Republic of China, Xuanwu Lake officially opened to the public as a park.

The whole Xuanwu Lake is diamond-shaped and very large. The lake mainly consists of five islets: Huanzhou (Ring Islet), Yingzhou (Cherry Islet), Lingzhou (Water Chestnut Islet), Liangzhou (Beam Islet), and Cuizhou (Emerald Islet), divided into three parts: North Lake (Northeast Lake, Northwest Lake), Southeast Lake, and Southwest Lake. North Lake is relatively shallow, Southwest Lake is the deepest, and Southeast Lake is next. The lake is connected by embankments, bridges, and roads.

It is said that Xuanwu Lake was originally called 'Houhu' or 'Beihu.' The name Houhu (Rear Lake) comes from its location at the shaded side of Zhongshan Mountain—to Nanjing residents, a lake at the back of a mountain is called a rear lake. The name Beihu (North Lake) originated because the lake was to the north of the capital during the Six Dynasties period. In fact, 'Xuanwu' refers to the 'God of the North,' so there isn't much difference between 'Xuanwu Lake' and 'North Lake.'

'Xuanwu' is one of the four divine creatures in Chinese mythology, specifically a composite of a turtle and a snake. Together with Qinglong (Azure Dragon), Baihu (White Tiger), and Zhuque (Vermilion Bird), they represent the four directions of east, south, west, and north. Thus, Xuanwu Lake essentially means North Lake.

Xuanwu Lake is huge, so how to explore it? You can take the scenic area sightseeing car for a loop around the lake. The circular lakeside road is 9.8 km long, and the sightseeing car will take you around the five islets and return to the starting point. You can also take a small train for a circle, but it's more expensive than the sightseeing car. Tips: The scenic area is free, but the sightseeing car, small train, and boats are chargeable. Sightseeing car: ¥20. Small train: ¥30. Pedal boat small: ¥25/hour, large pedal boat: ¥35/hour, electric boat: ¥50/hour. Electric oar boat (fits about 8 people): ¥20/person. Luxury painted boat (fits about 20 people): ¥30/person. A ¥50 deposit is required.

Step into the Nanjing Imperial Examination Museum

The Nanjing Imperial Examination Museum, the world's largest museum of its kind, is China's first underground museum. It was built on the site of the Jiangnan Examination Hall, once the largest imperial examination venue in ancient China.

Thinking back to when students from all over the country came to the capital to take exams, gathering here—how awe-inspiring! The museum is divided into an above-ground ruins area and an underground exhibition area. I recommend visiting in the evening to enjoy the most beautiful night views. Tickets: ¥49/person. Opening hours: Monday to Sunday 09:00–21:00. Address: No. 95 Gongyuan Street, Qinhuai District, Nanjing (inside the Confucius Temple Pedestrian Street). Transportation: Metro Line 3 to Confucius Temple Station, Exit 2, walk about 380 meters. Avant-Garde Bookstore: The Wutaishan Avant-Garde Bookstore is the main store, a huge bookstore filled with all kinds of books. The overall decoration is full of artistic flair and personality, with a dazzling array of creative cultural items. On the walls hang postcards from friends all over the world, left there for various reasons. Here, everything is poetry, and every moment is life! Most importantly, there are many spots perfect for taking photos—a casual snap turns into an artistic shot. Tickets: Free entry (¥0). Address: Underground garage, Wutaishan Stadium, No. 173 Guangzhou Road, Nanjing. Near Nanjing University and Nanjing Normal University, you can walk about 1 km from Huanya Plaza. Shanghai Road: Located in Gulou District of Nanjing, surrounded by Nanjing Normal University, Nanjing University, and Hohai University, it has become a popular Instagrammable street in recent years, full of literary vibes and great for photoshoots. At the same time, Shanghai Road has many hidden gem eateries and literary bookstores—a foodie paradise and hipster haven. The Avant-Garde Bookstore mentioned earlier is nearby, so you can browse and eat your way around. Tickets: Free (¥0). Address: Shanghai Road, Nanjing. You can head to the main Avant-Garde Bookstore first, then stroll over.

Zhongshan Scenic Area: Overlooking the Most Beautiful Nanjing

Zhongshan Scenic Area is a 5A-level scenic spot in Nanjing with beautiful scenery and profound historical and cultural heritage, suitable for family trips and combining education with entertainment. The area is divided into five major zones: Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum, Linggu Temple Scenic Area, Meiling Palace, Music Terrace, and Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum.

Visitors come in droves. Don't think that Zhongshan only contains the tomb of revolutionary martyr Dr. Sun Yat-sen; there are also Ming Xiaoling, where 16 emperors of various dynasties are buried. The most famous is the tomb of Emperor Hongwu (Zhu Yuanzhang) and Empress Ma, covering a large area and needing about two hours to explore.

The mausoleum is solemn and dignified with beautiful surroundings, well worth a visit. Next, climb up to Linggu Temple to overlook the most beautiful Nanjing. Try the vegetarian noodles—come early to Linggu Temple. Meiling Palace was originally the official residence proposed by Soong Mei-ling, combining Chinese and Western architectural styles—you can see the flying eaves and curved corners of a Chinese palace, with a turquoise roof.

From the air, it looks like a giant emerald necklace shimmering in the sunlight. At the Music Terrace, experience the perfect fusion of music and nature. The pigeons are completely unafraid of strangers, interacting obediently, and after eating and drinking, they even dance to the music—a harmonious and beautiful scene. Here, you can feed pigeons in normal times, enjoy the autumn scenery, and admire the snow in winter—your whole being will be healed.

Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum is the most significant modern historical tomb in China. It is a free area to visit. You'll need to climb stairs when visiting, so it's best to bring flat shoes for comfort. Tickets: You need to reserve an entry time in advance via the official WeChat account. Ming Xiaoling: from ¥70/person, Linggu Temple Scenic Area: from ¥35/person, Meiling Palace: from ¥30/person, Music Terrace: from ¥10/person, Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum: free (¥0). Address: No. 7 Shixiang Road, Xuanwu District, Nanjing. Navigation: Just set 'Zhongshan Scenic Area' in GPS, parking available. Or take public bus routes 55, 49, 201, 202 to Weiqiao Station and walk. Tips: 1?? Most memorial halls and museums in Nanjing are closed all day on Mondays for maintenance. Plan ahead and check opening hours to avoid disappointment! 2?? Always carry your ID, power bank, health QR code, and mask—travel essentials!

Nanjing Yuhuatai: Paying Tribute to Revolutionary Martyrs

Speaking of Yuhuatai (Rain Flower Terrace), many might think it's just a martyrs' cemetery—what is there to see? In fact, the Yuhuatai scenic area consists of six functional zones: historical sites, martyrs' memorial park, Yuhua stone culture zone, Yuhua tea culture zone, amusement area, and ecological forest area.

Entering Yuhuatai from the north gate, the first thing you see is a group of tall, powerful martyrs' sculptures—the symbol of Yuhuatai scenic area, at the Northern Execution Ground.

The sculptures were built in 1979, standing 10.03 meters high and 14.2 meters wide, assembled from 179 pieces of granite with a total weight of about 1,300 tons, the largest granite sculpture of its kind in China. It has a prominent theme, clear layers, and is solid above and void below. The nine figures—workers in chains defying the enemy, intellectuals with cold scorn, peasants with fierce eyes, a fearless female cadre, a newsboy gritting his teeth and pursing his lips, a female student imprisoned yet full of hope—vividly recreate the heroic and unyielding image of the martyrs before their sacrifice, facing death fearlessly.

After viewing the sculptures, walk along the main road to the martyrs' monument. Climb the steps and the majestic monument appears before your eyes. Without the sacrifices of these martyrs, we would not have today's happy life. We must cherish our life now.

The martyrs' monument stands on the highest point of Yuhuatai at an elevation of 60 meters, completed in 1989. It is located on the main peak square covering 5,010 square meters, with the monument, a stele corridor, and an underground hall.

The monument is 42.3 meters high, symbolizing the liberation of Nanjing on April 23, 1949. It is 7 meters wide and 5 meters thick, composed of a stele top, body, and base. The stele top resembles a red flag like a torch. On the back of the stele body is an inscription authored by the Jiangsu Provincial Government and Nanjing Municipal Government, written by famous calligrapher Wu Zhongqi. In front of the monument stands a bronze statue of a revolutionary martyr over 5 meters high with the theme 'Rather Die Than Surrender.'

Standing on the monument square, you can look across to the Martyrs' Memorial Hall. The hall stretches 90 meters east to west, extends 49 meters north to south, and is 26 meters high, with a building area of 5,900 square meters, a modern building with a traditional grand roof style. The elegant and classic Yuhuatai Martyrs Memorial Hall was the last building designed by the famous architectural master Yang Tingbao. In his time, Yang Tingbao was equally renowned with Liang Sicheng in Chinese architectural circles, known as 'South Yang and North Liang.' The Purple Mountain Observatory in Nanjing was designed by him.

Practical Tips: Transportation

Nanjing has well-developed transportation, easily accessible by plane, high-speed train, and bus. Because I bought a 'Fly As You Wish' ticket, there was no direct flight from Fuzhou to Nanjing, so I had to fly to Shanghai first, then take a high-speed train to Nanjing South Station, which is also very convenient. Flights: There are many flights from Fuzhou to Nanjing with various fares, so there are often special deals. Last time I bought a ticket for a total of only 244 yuan, cheaper than a bullet train. So buy early, and compare across different apps. High-speed train: There are direct high-speed trains and bullet trains from Fuzhou to Nanjing, taking about 5 to over 7 hours depending on the service. Choose according to your budget and needs.

Nanjing is not only the ancient capital of six dynasties, historically called Jinling, but recently people often say Nanjing is the 'Duck Capital' because Nanjing people really love eating duck. Salted duck, roast duck, soy sauce duck, and duck blood vermicelli soup—it's common to see three different colors of duck peacefully coexisting in a shop. So now you know what to eat when you come to Nanjing.

No duck can swim out of Nanjing alive. There's a local saying: 'Three days without duck, and you'll slip when you walk.' It shows Nanjing people's love for duck. After work, picking up half a salted duck and a pack of duck quartet is a highlight of an ordinary Nanjing person's day.

Nanjing has enjoyed duck dishes since ancient times. Whether it's duck meat, giblets, head, or wings, Nanjing people make the most of them, earning the reputation 'Jinling's duck cuisine is the best under heaven.' Just as no cow leaves Chaoshan alive and no rabbit leaves Sichuan alive, no duck swims out of Nanjing alive. When it comes to eating duck, Nanjing people rack their brains.

Duck blood vermicelli soup is a must-try, along with salted duck, Jinling roast duck, and Nanjing pastries. A friendly reminder: don't eat duck blood vermicelli soup in tourist spots—it's too inauthentic and made for tourists. I found a place where locals eat; it was really authentic, and by 8 p.m., it was already sold out.

Nanjing has abundant accommodation resources, from luxury five-star hotels to international chains, high-end B&Bs, and youth hostels. This time, considering location, I chose the Nanjing Jin Jiang Metro Confucius Temple Qinhuai Classic Hotel near Fuzimiao, within walking distance of the Qinhuai River—very convenient.