"Duck" and "Fried Chicken" in Nanjing... (Part 1)

"The Fair Land of Jiangnan, the Imperial City of Jinling"

Nanjing, an ancient city with over 2,500 years of history, known as the "Ancient Capital of Six Dynasties, Metropolis of Ten Dynasties," captivates people with its unique charm, evoking endless imagination and affection.

When mentioning Nanjing, people think of Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum, Confucius Temple, Jiming Temple, the ancient city wall. And, of course, Nanjing's "duck" (salted duck). Locals know that "Shuiximen duck" is the cream of the crop among salted duck brands.

To the west of Nanjing city, outside Shuiximen Gate, besides the famous salted duck, there is a small, exquisite garden estate, which is Mochou Lake. Emperor Wu of Liang's poem "Song of the River's East Waters" inevitably transports people back to the ancient city of "Jiankang" 1,500 years ago...

"The waters east of the river flow eastward, a Luoyang maiden named Mochou."

"At thirteen, Mochou could weave fine silk; at fourteen, she picked mulberry leaves by the southern path."

"At fifteen, she married into the Lu family; at sixteen, she bore a son named Ahou."...

From Nanjing South Station or Nanjing Station, take Metro Line 1 to Zhangfuyuan Station. After exiting through Exit 1, you'll find a bus stop not far ahead on the roadside. Take bus No. 41 to "Mochou Lake Park South Gate" and you'll arrive at Mochou Lake Park, which has accompanied me since childhood.

Mochou Lake was formed during the Six Dynasties period. At that time, the Yangtze River flowed from west to east through the line of Qingliang Hill and Stone City, meeting the Qinhuai River coming from the east outside today's Shuiximen in Nanjing. The two mighty currents formed a vast water country here. After the Tang Dynasty, the Yangtze shifted westward, and the Qinhuai River also moved northwestward toward the Sancha River area due to sand accumulation. When the two great rivers retreated, many lakes and ponds were left in the abandoned river channels at their confluence, and what later became Mochou Lake was one section of them. At the time, people called it "Stone City Lake."

Mochou Lake truly became a cultural haven of Jiangnan largely due to a maiden named Mochou during the Southern Qi Dynasty. As with many historical tales, there are several versions of the Mochou maiden.

One version says she was a Luoyang maiden embodying all the classical virtues of Chinese women. Her family was poor. At the age of 15, she was forced to perform an act highly praised in Chinese filial piety: selling herself to bury her father. This happened to be witnessed by Squire Lu, who lived by Stone City Lake in Jiankang. Seeing that Mochou was beautiful and clever, he bought her as a wife for his son. The next part of the story resembles that of Meng Jiangnü: war beacons flared on the northern frontier, Mochou's husband was conscripted to guard the border, and no news came back. Then, somewhat abruptly, Mochou devoted all her energy to helping neighbors in distress, earning her an excellent reputation. But her charitable deeds clashed severely with her father-in-law. In the end, like Liu Lanzhi in "The Peacock Flies Southeast," unable to bear the humiliation, she "plunged into the clear pond." Later generations, unable to forget this beautiful and kind maiden, renamed the Stone City Lake where she had lived as Mochou Lake.

The first half of another version is much the same but more detailed. For instance, it adds the misfortune of losing her mother in childhood; and it says she could pick mulberry leaves, raise silkworms, spin, weave, embroider, and also recite poetry—details that particularly appealed to ancient scholar-officials. It also mentions that Mochou learned from her father how to gather herbs and treat illnesses, clearly stating that her father died falling off a cliff while herb-gathering, and that she gave birth to a fair, chubby son named Ahou with her new husband. What most appealed to common folk, however, was that this "rich lady" found her greatest joy in helping the poor with medical care. In this version, Mochou's father-in-law is a neutral character, neither good nor bad, while the real villain is Emperor Wu of Liang, who was a vegetarian and devoted to Buddhist cultivation. It is said that the emperor happened to visit the Lu estate to see peonies and caught sight of Mochou's beauty, lost his mind, could not eat or sleep, and finally used a wicked plot to kill Young Master Lu. When the imperial edict summoning Mochou to the palace reached the Lu estate outside Shuiximen, Mochou resolutely chose the clear water of Stone City Lake. Emperor Wu, who had some innate wisdom after all, felt deeply ashamed upon hearing the news, and thus wrote the famous "Song of the River's Central Waters."

In the early Ming Dynasty, Zhu Yuanzhang established his capital in Nanjing. To consolidate his imperial power, he invited the great general Xu Da to play chess in a pavilion overlooking the lake. Ostensibly a game of chess, it was secretly an attempt to find a pretext to put Xu Da to death. However, Xu Da was so clever that he played to a draw, preserving the emperor's face while denying him an excuse to kill. Just as Zhu Yuanzhang was puzzled, Xu Da asked the emperor to step over to his side of the board. Looking at the board, the emperor saw the two characters "Bu Sha" (do not kill) forming before his eyes. Zhu Yuanzhang was overwhelmed with emotion; all his previous unease and suspicion vanished like smoke. In his delight, he renamed the pavilion "Shengqi Lou" (Victory Chess Pavilion) and bestowed it upon Xu Da. In the mid-Ming, Mochou Lake became the country estate of Xu Da's descendants, the Duke of Wei. The garden nestled by the lake and embraced by hills offered splendid views, with pavilions and towers such as "Simci Tang" (Hall of Four Beauties) and "Shengqi Lou," making it one of Jinling's famous gardens. Wang Shizhen praised it as "the foremost scenic spot in the old capital." Top scholar Zhu Zhifan, in his "Forty Scenes of Jinling," listed Mochou Lake as "the number one scenic spot in Jinling" under the name "Mochou Kuanglan" (Expansive View of Mochou).

Today, Mochou Lake Scenic Area includes buildings and sights such as Mochou Maiden's Former Residence, Yujin Hall, Suhe Chamber, Shengqi Lou, Huayan Nunnery, Mochou Water Courtyard, Qiwen Hall, Baoyue Pavilion, and others.

During the rainy season in Jiangnan, mist and rain drift over the lake surface, and the pitter-patter of rain sounds outside the pavilion. Sitting in a lakeside pavilion, accompanied by weeping willows on the bank and lotus flowers in the lake, brewing a cup of fragrant, emerald "Yuhua tea"—whether alone or with friends for a small gathering—meditating, reading, playing chess, or chatting freely, the feeling is truly delightful and refreshing.

At noon, still in a lakeside pavilion, raising a glass with friends, savoring the "eight water fresh delicacies" on the table, and admiring the crabapple flowers in the garden. Oh, right! Don't forget to order a plate of "Shuiximen" salted duck. (To be continued...)