Autumn Trip to Pukou, Nanjing: Artistic Spots Amidst the Fragrance of Osmanthus

“I fear it’s the wind and dew from the ninth heaven, that dyes the whole world fragrant.” Visiting Nanjing in autumn might be the best choice, when this ancient capital of six dynasties is steeped in the fresh yet rich scent of osmanthus. Xuanwu Lake, Purple Mountain, Zhonghua Gate, Confucius Temple, Qinhuai River… The city boasts so many renowned check-in spots, each one pulling at your heartstrings.

But there is another side to Nanjing — serene, quiet, artistic, brimming with creative vibes. It’s perfect for a weekend stroll, wandering across shady lawns, lingering among green hills and clear waters, exploring exhibitions and architecture. An autumn visit to Pukou’s artistic check-in spots lets you walk and bathe in Nanjing’s warm fall sunshine. Time here feels like a clean, simple face — plain and gentle.

A Feast of Architecture and Art — Sifang Contemporary Art Lake District

Goethe once said, “Architecture is frozen music.” The sculptural lines of buildings carry a rhythmic quality much like musical art. Their geometric contours, playing off the surrounding environment, create striking visual impacts. And right here in Pukou, Nanjing, the Sifang Contemporary Art Lake District stages just such a feast of architectural art.

To the southwest of the Pearl Spring Scenic Area — known as “the top scenic spot north of the river” — lies a vast, secluded landscape of hills and water, where the Sifang Art Lake District is tucked away. This expansive retreat hosts over twenty architectural works designed by leading masters from home and abroad, each one unique, blending perfectly with the undulating terrain and natural scenery.

Used to the dense cluster of skyscrapers in city CBDs or the hustle and bustle of crowded downtown streets, you’ll find a breath of fresh air on a crisp autumn day. Strolling along the quiet roads of the Sifang Art Lake District, the faint fragrance of osmanthus in the breeze, you can appreciate the masterful architecture at every turn — as pleasant as listening to a graceful melody.

Upon entering the lake district, the first thing that catches your eye is the Sifang Contemporary Art Museum — praised as one of “the most beautiful private art museums in China today.” Designed by the renowned American architect Steven Holl, it’s the landmark building of the area.

The museum has a most distinctive shape that you won’t easily forget. The entire structure resembles several rectangular blocks stacked to form a “domain,” with the upper gallery appearing to float in midair. The long fire escape staircase connecting the upper level to the ground seems like a heavenly ladder leading straight into the sky.

Inside, exhibitions are arranged from the basement level all the way up to the sky gallery. Although the interior space isn’t overwhelmingly large, it is cleverly laid out with varied levels. Especially from the balcony of the sky gallery, you face Nanjing city — looking far into the distance, you see the staggered skyline of the ancient Jinling.

Beyond the Sifang Contemporary Art Museum, the twenty-plus other art buildings in the lake district are equally worth exploring. Here are a few of my favorites:

Boat House, designed by Finnish artists Matti Sanaksenaho and Pirjo Sanaksenaho. Built right by a small lake, the structure hugs the water. Its exterior color resembles the duck-egg blue of the nearby hillside, looking like a boat moored by the shore. Standing on its roof platform and looking down, you’ll find a real wooden boat resting on the lake, echoing the building from afar.

Seclusion, a work by Chinese architect Zhou Kai. This minimalist white building hides itself below the road surface; you need to descend steps to discover a hidden world.

Blockhouse, designed by the famous architect Zhang Lei. True to its name, it’s a solid, cube-like fortress situated at the bottom of a small valley, facing a stream. The white walls are dotted with openings, resembling the bullet holes of a blockhouse.

Water Lily, a major work by architect Mathias Klotz. To discover the secret of “Water Lily,” you follow a long wooden ramp up to the roof. It turns out the roof is an aquatic plant garden, where circular stone slabs on the water’s surface bloom like water lilies.

Light Box, designed by architect David Adjaye. From the outside, it looks like an elongated rectangular block. Two large living rooms feature huge glass windows, while the rest of the building has only square openings resembling ship portholes. Natural light mainly comes from strip skylights on the roof.

Buddha’s Hand, created by architects Luis Mansilla and Emilio Alvarez. It lies close to the Light Box. Its outer walls are made of vertically arranged bamboo slats, echoing the surrounding lush bamboo groves, giving it an ethereal, almost immortal air.

Foshou Lake Country Park — Snatching a Half-Day’s Leisure

To the south of the Sifang Art Lake District lies a vast, mirror-like stretch of water — this is Foshou Lake Country Park.

The lake gets its name from its shape, said to resemble a giant handprint left on the earth, hence “Foshou Lake” (Buddha Hand Lake). Lush vegetation, green hills, crystalline water, fresh air — occasionally you’ll see birds and even eagles soaring by. It truly is a spot of rich natural charm.

The extensive Foshou Lake area is a great place for a family outing with kids. Coming from the parking lot, you’ll spot a campground, a forest adventure camp, and an amusement park, where children have a wonderful time.

The most photogenic spot for that perfect snapshot is near the dam steps — there, a large lawn with white railings and green grass makes a perfect match! With reeds swaying gently under the blue sky and white clouds, you’ll feel as if you’ve stepped into a Miyazaki fairy tale.

At the top of the dam, Foshou Lake unfolds before your eyes — a vast expanse of green water, a soft breeze caressing your face, and little boats gliding on the surface. Sitting by the lake, you don’t need to think about anything or do anything; just quietly soaking up the sun is a beautiful thing in itself.

Puyun Road Bridge — A Taste of British Style

Nanjing is crisscrossed by rivers, with numerous bridges. In Pukou, there’s a bridge with a very unique style, full of potential to become an Instagram sensation — the Puyun Road Bridge.

Completed and opened to traffic just last year, this olive-green bridge stretches across the Chengnan River, bustling with vehicles and pedestrians. Unlike other bridges in Nanjing, it is drenched in British style. The bridge is a continuous steel truss structure, while its main towers feature neoclassical architectural styling — dignified and elegant. Its overall lines are smooth and pleasing to the eye. Flanking the bridge are European-style churches and buildings, making the Puyun Road Bridge harmonize beautifully with its surroundings.

In the early morning, the Puyun Road Bridge is very quiet. On both sides are riverside parks and pathways shaded by trees. Occasionally, you’ll see citizens jogging or taking a leisurely walk, watching the river flow gently by and gazing at the scenery around the bridge — a slice of unhurried, carefree life.