A Thrilling Journey: Unforgettable and Heart-Stopping
Duration: 9 days, Time: July, Cost per person: 4000 yuan, Companion: Friends
We embarked on a thrilling journey. Due to the unstable pandemic situation, Nanjing saw a resurgence of cases after our return, making the trip a nerve-wracking experience.
The monotonous and tedious work life makes you yearn for freedom, to soar in the sky and take a relaxing trip. Everything is just that simple and easy. We just packed and left with a friend, escaping from a place we were tired of to a place others are tired of, and then we strolled around, taking in the culture, food, and scenery at a glance.
This is a concise account of our 9-day journey, a simple guide without flowery language, easy to understand.
D1: 15:50 Quanzhou Jinjiang Airport – 17:30 arrive at Shanghai Pudong Airport. Booked flight & hotel package on Ctrip. Feike Hotel (reserve pickup in advance). Feike chain – Xianghe Home. Chen Xianggui Lanzhou Beef Noodles.
D2: Yonghe Soymilk, Home Inn, Xiao Yang Shengjian, Yuyuan Garden, City God Temple Food Street, Lübolang, People's Square, Chao Tang, Nanjing Road Pedestrian Street, The Bund.
D3: Luckin Coffee, 1933 Old Millfun, Lu Xun's Former Residence, Lu Xun Park, Chen Xianggui Lanzhou Beef Noodles, Jing'an Temple, Tianzifang, Modern Rouge – Red, Wukang Building, Yuncui Fang.
D4: Zhujiajiao Ancient Town, Hongdelou Home-style Vegetable Garden, Rose Hall.
D5: Meiliyuan Grand Hotel (Huishijia), Xujiahui Catholic Church, Lu Hanbin Typewriter Museum, Oriental Ceramic Art Gallery, Xiandelai Spare Ribs and Rice Cakes (Yandang Road branch).
D6: 8:25 Shanghai Hongqiao Railway Station – 10:06 to Nanjing South Station, Xiaohuainiang Duck Blood Vermicelli, Zhan Garden, Nanjing Confucius Temple, Qinhuai River, Ximayunsu Hotel Apartment (Nanjing South Station branch).
D7: Zhongshan Scenic Area, Meiling Palace, First Lady Cafe, Ming Xiaoling Museum, Ming Xiaoling, Music Terrace, Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum, Xie Xiaopang Handmade Sour Fish.
D8: Ming Imperial Palace, Laomendong, Minzhong Wonton and Gongwan, Guorandian, Fengwang BBQ, Presidential Palace, Nanjing Impressions (Presidential Palace branch), Metro (Yuhua branch).
D9: Luckin Coffee, KFC. 15:50 Lukou Airport return, 17:30 back to sweet home.
Together, we set off from West Street near Quanzhou Bell Tower, starting our journey. We took a taxi to Quanzhou International Airport. Everything proceeded orderly as we waited for our flight. We had booked a flight and hotel package on Ctrip, with our first stop being the Feike Hotel in Shanghai. Remember to book the hotel's airport pickup service in advance! In our rush, we didn't pay attention to the information, so we went to Feike on our own and checked into the Feike chain hotel, Xianghe Home. Opposite the hotel, there's a Carrefour supermarket where we tried Chen Xianggui Lanzhou Beef Noodles. Since we arrived late, we had a simple meal; Carrefour closes at 10 p.m.
The pickled vegetable beef noodles had a generous amount of tender beef, springy noodles infused with tangy broth, very appetizing. With a tea egg on the side, the satisfaction was overwhelming.
Xianghe Home was simple yet cozy, fully equipped.
We got up early, packed up, and had a lovely breakfast again at Carrefour: Yonghe Soymilk, a cup of hot soy milk with a crispy youtiao (fried dough stick). The youtiao dipped in special soy sauce offered a different kind of deliciousness. Thus began a beautiful day, heading to downtown Shanghai.
We checked into Home Inn (Zhongshan Park Changning branch), which is relatively close to the metro, train station, and attractions. Our room on the first floor was peaceful and quiet, not too noisy at night. Home Inn truly felt like home.
A must-do in Shanghai is to try the pan-fried buns. When the fragrant shengjian comes out, be careful of the hot juice bursting! The skin is crispy, and the filling is savory and delicious. One careless bite might squirt all over you. Pair it with a bowl of duck blood vermicelli soup—a big bowl with duck blood, organ meats, and springy vermicelli in a clear broth. It's filling and satisfying.
The first stop was Yuyuan Garden, a private garden from the Ming Dynasty, located in the northeast of Shanghai's Old City, bordered by Fuyou Road to the north, Anren Street to the east, and adjacent to the old City God Temple to the southwest. This classical Jiangnan garden has weathered many vicissitudes. Inside Yuyuan, there are over forty ancient structures, including halls, towers, pavilions, rockeries, and ponds, such as Suitang Hall, Iron Lions, Kuailou Tower, Deyue Tower, Exquisite Jade Rock, Jiyu Water Corridor, Tingtao Pavilion, Hanbi Tower, Inner Garden's Jingguan Hall, and an ancient stage. Suitang Hall at the main entrance was built in the 25th year of Qianlong's reign (1760). Originally Leshou Hall, it served as the office for the Shanghai county yamen in the early Qing Dynasty and was rebuilt as Suitang when the West Garden was renovated. Green trees, small bridges, flowing water, and exquisite carvings made it well worth a visit.
After leaving Yuyuan, we strolled through the Old City God Temple food street. At Lübolang, the crab meat soup dumplings were 25 yuan each—a famous Shanghai snack worth trying. You first suck the crab soup inside, then eat the dumpling. The crab broth was delicious, though coming from southern Fujian, I found the thick wrapper a bit bland after the flavorful soup.
Next stop: People's Square. Due to the centenary celebrations this year, the flower and greenery displays were especially beautiful. In this leisure park, I unexpectedly came upon a 'matchmaking corner' where parents toiled for their children. Descriptions of their children's situations were written on paper sheets, placed on the ground or in various spots, with parents waiting nearby for suitable inquiries. The dedication of these parents was truly moving.
After a non-stop day, we treated ourselves well in the evening at Chao Tang on the fourth floor of Raffles City Shanghai. A good pot of congee is like waiting for a good romance—it takes time, not rushed. We had crisp fried Puning tofu, traditional ginger-fried blood eel rice, Chaozhou braised platter, pepper pork stomach chicken soup, and traditional pan-fried oyster omelet. I loved the oyster omelet the most. Unlike the oyster omelet in southern Fujian, this one had a crispy, fragrant crust with fresh, sweet oysters hidden inside. The braised platter was rich in flavor, with the dipping sauce really standing out.
The Bund and Nanjing Road Pedestrian Street are must-visit spots in Shanghai. This was my second time visiting both, and they were still crowded. The Bund, located along the Huangpu River, connects the south and north with 52 classical buildings of various styles, earning the nickname 'the Gallery of World Architecture.' It was once the financial center of old Shanghai. Across the river, Lujiazui boasts landmark buildings like the Oriental Pearl TV Tower, Jin Mao Tower, Shanghai Tower, and the World Financial Center. At night, the lights reflecting on the river were spectacular. Nanjing Road Pedestrian Street was overly commercialized, with all kinds of food and clothing shops, and one can only walk along this very long street of food and shopping. We ended the perfect day and returned to the hotel to rest.
In the morning, I like sweet things, so I searched for a Luckin Coffee near the hotel. A cup of sweet, aromatic coffee with toast started another wonderful day.
The 1933 Old Millfun, a less-known Instagram-worthy spot, is a photographer's paradise with every angle and structure meticulously crafted. The architecture feels as if it were meticulously fashioned, and the layouts are ingeniously designed. It's worth a visit, and admission is free.
Near 1933, you can visit Lu Xun's Former Residence. However, due to the pandemic, advance reservation was required, which we unfortunately missed. So we went to Lu Xun Park instead. With birds singing, flowers fragrant, and a pond full of lotuses, the park was filled with locals relaxing and singing.
For a simple solo meal, I went out to eat Chen Xianggui Lanzhou Beef Noodles. A fragrant bowl of beef noodles with thick, springy noodles and a slightly spicy taste was appetizing.
Next stop: Jing'an Temple, resplendent and magnificent. We bought tickets at the gate (50 yuan per person). This price was not worth it, in my opinion; the temple is small, with not much to see or photograph. We strolled around briefly before heading to the next Instagram-famous spot: Tianzifang.
Unfortunately, Tianzifang was overly commercialized. During peak hours, it was extremely crowded, so we had to pick and choose. But it's still worth a visit, especially for photography lovers. The buildings have an antique charm with rich, layered structures. No admission fee, and definitely worth a shot.
We then set off to see the 'open-window granny' at Wukang Building. This century-old building, with its unique design, draws many photography enthusiasts who wait to capture the famous scene. Free admission.
Even for a solo meal, I didn't compromise. I went to Yuncui Fang (Zhongshan Park branch). Remember to book in advance; walk-ins aren't accepted for dine-in. This restaurant has a strong old Shanghai charm. Under the soft, beautiful lights at night, I ordered a few signature dishes: soft-boiled egg, flavorful pan-fried dumplings, fresh pork wontons, and sweet and sour spare ribs. I loved the ribs—tender and juicy with a sweet and sour taste. The soft-boiled egg was also great. Loved it. Full and satisfied, I strolled back to the hotel, ending a wonderful day with perfect food.
The night before, we booked tickets for Zhujiajiao Ancient Town on Ctrip (47 yuan per person). After taking the metro and two bus stops, we arrived. I don't recommend this place. It turns out only the small scenic spots inside require tickets; the main entrance is free. Inside, there are few bridges and streams, and some areas felt messy, lacking the ancient, authentic atmosphere. A few small attractions inside were a bit of a rip-off.
For lunch, we ate at Hongdelou Home-style Vegetable Garden, enjoying a Chinese-style meal: blanched river shrimp—sweet, refreshing, with springy, crispy meat; an eggplant casserole that was super appetizing with rice; and a light, clear tomato egg soup.
After a break at Zhujiajiao, in the evening we went to a must-eat restaurant, Rose Hall, for authentic Shanghai cuisine. The garden lighting shimmered like stars. Inside, there was a strong homely feel, with old photos and flower arrangements, very beautiful.
We ordered plum sauce spare ribs, osmanthus sugar lotus root, traditional spicy sour seafood soup, Rose Hall's new Huaiyang fried rice, pumpkin fermented glutinous rice balls, and jiefen noodles. I loved the sour and salty tender spare ribs. The spicy sour seafood soup was fresh and zesty. The fried rice was also good—each grain translucent and super fragrant. For dessert, the fermented rice balls were a beauty-boosting treat.
We ended another perfect day with this delicious must-try meal.
In the beautiful morning, we started with early dim sum at Huishijia Chinese Restaurant in Meiliyuan Grand Hotel, located on the third and fourth floors. Due to the pandemic, the elevator goes up to the fourth floor first, then you can go down. Morning black tea is good for the stomach, and in the quiet, leisurely setting with top-notch service, we savored the tranquility after a tiring journey. We had crispy shrimp rice noodles, traditional spare ribs siu mai with black bean and garlic, pea and squid crystal dumplings, White Rabbit candy, and ginger milk pudding with bird's nest. Life moved slowly, the trip moved slowly. The spare ribs siu mai had rich black bean sauce and tender meat. The cute White Rabbit candy was chewy and creamy. After a leisurely breakfast, we headed to Xujiahui Catholic Church.
Due to the pandemic, the church was closed, so we could only admire its Western-style architecture from the outside. It's a pity we couldn't see the interior.
Next, we went to the Lu Hanbin Typewriter Museum and the Oriental Ceramic Art Gallery inside Jiadu Building. The museum's collection of vintage typewriters in various shapes and designs was eye-opening, showcasing the era of human creativity in writing. Well worth a visit.
The beautiful ceramic art featured lifelike figures, including characters from 'Journey to the West.' These were mostly made in the 1960s, with plates, human figures, animals, all showcasing their charm.
In the evening, we went shopping on Huaihai Middle Road for local specialties. At Xiandelai, we tried rice cakes and spare ribs, as well as fresh pork wontons. The wontons had thin skins and full fillings, light and delicious. The rice cakes were glutinous, and the ribs were fried crispy. With Shanghai-style spicy soy sauce for dipping or drizzling on the wontons, the flavors were extremely fresh and delightful.
On the first day, we took the train from Shanghai Hongqiao Railway Station to Nanjing.
We had pre-booked Ximayunsu on Ctrip. Upon arriving at Nanjing South Railway Station, you can walk out to the street; Ximayunsu is very close to the station. Since we arrived early, we checked in, left our luggage at the front desk, and nearby we had Xiaohuainiang duck blood vermicelli for lunch.
Duck blood vermicelli is a signature snack of Nanjing, with duck breast, duck intestines, and duck liver. The broth comes in original, Sichuan pepper, and tomato flavors. The original was refreshing, with smooth, tender duck blood and springy vermicelli. Paired with a baked bun, it was a filling meal before heading to the sights.
First stop: Zhan Garden, which narrates the history and culture of the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom. It displays historical relics and artifacts from the Taiping era. Inside, it feels like a maze—you can walk around without finding the way out. With green hills, clear waters, birdsong, and fragrant flowers, the layout perfectly showcases the architectural style of the Taiping period. We encountered many girls in Hanfu taking photos.
After visiting Zhan Garden, turn left at the main gate and go straight to the famous Nanjing Confucius Temple food street. We strolled through, snacking and admiring the Huizhou-style architecture and local customs. For those with students in the family, you can visit the Jiangnan Examination Hall, praying for academic success and high rankings.
After the snacks, as night fell, we had to see the Qinhuai River night scenery. Remember: buy your boat ticket directly inside the Confucius Temple to enjoy the Huizhou-style architecture and illuminated night views. The outer part of the Qinhuai River is not recommended, as the sights differ greatly. We wanted to try the famous Nanjing Impressions, but we arrived too late and the queues were too long at both Confucius Temple locations, so we had to give up.
We headed to our accommodation, Ximayunsu, which lived up to expectations: spacious, bright, with two large beds. Though near the road, the soundproofing was good and it was very quiet. It was a small studio apartment with all amenities—fridge, washing machine, TV, etc. A thoughtful bookshelf added a literary touch. We paused our journey to relax and read for a while, resting our tired selves and recharging.
In the morning, preferring something sweet and light, I searched nearby on Baidu and found a McDonald's. Exiting the hotel, turn left, go to the next traffic light, turn left again, and you'll see the McDonald's halfway down. My friend preferred congee with youtiao, while I ordered soy milk, youtiao, and a croissant. We enjoyed a leisurely, hearty breakfast before starting the day's journey.
Zhongshan Scenic Area (we pre-booked a combo ticket on Ctrip for 94 yuan per person). From our hotel, there's a direct metro station, but you need to change once. Upon exiting the metro, remember to use a HelloBike because the scenic spots are far apart. The first stop was Meiling Palace. Not having slept well, I treated myself to a cup of First Lady coffee at the First Lady Cafe inside the palace, which perked me up wonderfully.
Meiling Palace was completed in 1932, officially named the Residence of the Chairman of the National Government, and hailed as the 'Number One Villa in the Far East.' It was where Chiang Kai-shek and Soong Mei-ling rested and vacationed. Inside, there were beautiful photos of Soong Mei-ling, a long, exquisite dining table, and green glazed tiles carved with over a thousand phoenixes—unique in China. The interior decor was refined and luxurious. Surrounded by lush woods and fragrant flowers that bloom year-round, with architecture designed to follow the mountain's contours, it was a place of birdsong and floral scents. Meiling Palace is well worth a visit.
Leaving Meiling Palace, we first visited the Ming Xiaoling Museum (free entry) to explore the historical relics of the Ming Dynasty. It documents the heyday of the Ming era and is one of China's largest extant imperial tomb complexes. After the museum, we went to the Ming Xiaoling scenic area to appreciate the majesty of the imperial tomb. Unfortunately, due to the pandemic, we couldn't see the tomb itself, which is the largest surviving imperial mausoleum. The surroundings are vast, with mountains and water. We had to exit and take a scenic shuttle (10 yuan per person, tickets purchased on-site) to Music Terrace.
It was a circular design, but there was no music, only many pigeons. Haha, it felt like a pigeon feeding ground. The musical fountain didn't spray water, and there was no music. A pity.
Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum is right next to Music Terrace. After visiting Music Terrace, we entered the mausoleum. To see Dr. Sun Yat-sen's tomb, you have to climb over two thousand steps for a panoramic view. However, due to the pandemic, it was also closed, so after the strenuous climb we couldn't see it.
After finishing at Zhongshan Scenic Area, we headed to the nearest metro station. At the Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum exit, you can take an electric cart or a three-wheeled motorcycle down to the metro (15 yuan for two people).
Back near the hotel, we went to Xie Xiaopang Handmade Sour Fish. Craving something appetizing like sour fish, we ordered a double meal on a group-buying platform. The portions were huge, more than two of us could finish. But the sour fish and spicy chicken were a bit disappointing—a bit of a letdown.
In the morning, same as before, we went to McDonald's and ordered the same as yesterday, then set off to see the 'best imperial palace in China,' the Ming Imperial Palace. It was historically the largest palace complex, but due to weathering and war damage, only a park remains today. Inside the park, there's an exhibition of Ming history and culture, with LCD screens showing the palace's former grandeur. A pity.
After visiting the Ming Palace, we went to Laomendong, a popular food street among Nanjing locals. The ancient architectural layout was well-preserved, though with some commercialization. We tried fresh shrimp wontons at Minzhong Wonton and Gongwan—full of crunchy shrimp, with thin skins and generous fillings. For dessert, we had taro and taro ball red bean soup at Guorandian: chewy taro balls, lots of red beans, sweet and tasty. Haha, we also ordered stinky tofu and grilled squid. We spent lunchtime happily with these snacks.
Satisfied, while it was still early, we headed to the Presidential Palace, one of the must-visit spots in Nanjing. With 'The world belongs to all,' we viewed the historical artifacts and documents on display, showcasing the Republic of China era's presidency in its prime, with orderly office arrangements. After the exhibition, we strolled through the back garden—birdsong, flowers, fresh and natural, a tranquil oasis in this bustling city.
Having failed to dine at Nanjing Impressions at the Confucius Temple, we made sure to go early to the Presidential Palace branch. The restaurant opens at 5 p.m., but we arrived early in anticipation.
With a distinctive Nanjing ambiance, the yellow lanterns added to the old-time charm. They say there's storytelling, but we didn't encounter it. The menu is divided into red and white; red items are must-orders. Jiu Niang Chi Dou Yuan Xiao (fermented rice and red bean dumplings) is a signature Nanjing snack. The Republic of China Meiling Congee was highly rated, with a sweet taste. I wouldn't recommend the Xianggan Malan Tou. The Golden Plum Spare Ribs had a delightful sour plum flavor, tender and tasty. Salted duck, a Nanjing specialty, was a must-order: the meat was smooth and tender, with a subtle salty taste and fine texture. Delicious! Nanjing Su Shi Jin, also a snack, was a must-try. Haha, it's actually stir-fried vegetables like bean sprouts.
Coming to Nanjing, you have to bring back some salted duck. We searched and found a Metro (Yuhua branch) near our hotel, so we rushed there and bought salted duck. Remember to get the 'Guihua Shi' brand (48 yuan for 3 ducks with a 5% discount), which was a great deal.
The weather turned bad with a downpour, so we had to wait at the hotel before heading to the airport for our flight home. While waiting, we went down to the lobby and found a Luckin Coffee. There were no signs, but asking the security guard would lead you to it.
The Nanjing trip turned out to be a thrilling journey. Because of the pandemic, five days after returning, an outbreak was reported at Nanjing Lukou Airport, leaving us in a state of shock for 14 days. Thankfully, everything went smoothly and we were safe.