Jiangsu Travel: A Journey to Nanjing, the Ancient Capital of Six Dynasties (Photo)

For Nanjing, the capital of Jiangsu and an ancient capital of six dynasties, I have visited many times, three of which were relatively large-scale events. The first was a stopover in November 1992 on my way to the Shanghai TV Festival. The second was on November 29, 2003, when I was invited to participate in the 'Splendid Nanjing, E-City Brilliance' – a national central network media tour organized by the State Council Information Office and the Publicity Department of Nanjing Municipal Committee. The third was during the '2005 National Day Golden Week – A Graceful Journey to Jiangnan' self-driving tour. Although each experience was different, the one organized by Beijing Aiche Yangguang left an unforgettable impression because the first stop of the self-driving trip was Nanjing. I had the honor to accompany the convoy as a reporter, documenting the entire self-driving journey through Jiangnan and Nanjing.

Convoy Stuck in Traffic (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

On October 1, 2005, at around 5:30 a.m., a convoy of over 20 sedans began assembling at the first service area on the Beijing-Tianjin-Tanggu Expressway. By about 6:30 a.m., the convoy set off southwards. Despite the uncooperative weather—overcast, gloomy, and foggy—it was the Golden Week holiday, so the expressway was extraordinarily busy with vehicles leaving Beijing.

Crowds at Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

When the convoy reached the entrance of the Beijing-Shanghai Expressway, it encountered its first trouble. Due to fog, the expressway was closed. The blocked vehicles lined up for several kilometers. Fortunately, after waiting for nearly 20 minutes, the expressway began allowing vehicles through in batches. One by one, the cars passed through the toll gates and then shot off like arrows, racing along the Beijing-Shanghai Expressway.

Fraternity Archway, Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The convoy passed through Hebei and Shandong before entering Jiangsu Province. Along the way, it was delayed several times by traffic jams and heavy rain. After about 16 hours and a journey of more than 1,000 kilometers, it arrived at its first stop—Nanjing, the capital of Jiangsu—at around 11 p.m.

Gate of Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

I had visited Nanjing several times before. Two years earlier, in November 2003, I was part of a media group organized by the State Council Information Office for the 'Splendid Nanjing, E-City Brilliance' feature, and I had been deeply impressed by the city's beauty. On October 2, despite the persistent drizzle, the festive mood of National Day was undiminished. Nanjing, bustling with activity as it was about to host the 10th National Games, was especially lively. According to the plan, the convoy first headed to Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum.

A Corner of the Scenic Area (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Once inside the Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum scenic area, all we could see were streams of vehicles and crowds. Traffic police and staff were everywhere, maintaining order. It was clear that Nanjing's authorities had made thorough preparations for the peak travel season of Golden Week.

View from Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The solemn and majestic Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum lies within the Zhongshan Scenic Area in the eastern suburbs of Nanjing. As the final resting place of Dr. Sun Yat-sen, the great pioneer of the democratic revolution, it is a must-visit for tourists in Nanjing. With its profound historical significance, high cultural value, and beautiful garden scenery, it enjoys a sterling reputation both at home and abroad and has become a pilgrimage site for Chinese people worldwide.

Photo at Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum (Photo: Cao Qun)

On March 12, 1925, Sun Yat-sen passed away in Beijing. In accordance with his wish to be buried in the Zhongshan area of Nanjing, the National Government decided to build the mausoleum. On May 13, 1925, the funeral preparation committee adopted and announced the 'Competition for the Design of Dr. Sun Yat-sen's Mausoleum', receiving over 40 entries. After evaluation, 10 solemn designs were shortlisted. Artists and architects from home and abroad showcased their talents, competing to produce blueprints. The 31-year-old Chinese architect Lü Yanzhi's design, a bird's-eye 'alarm bell' shape, won first prize, and he was appointed to supervise and guide the construction.

Foreign Visitors Paying Homage (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

On March 12, 1926, the first anniversary of Sun Yat-sen's death, the funeral preparation committee held the foundation-laying ceremony. Provinces made donations, and overseas Chinese generously contributed funds. The mausoleum took three years to build and was largely completed in the spring of 1929. A grand burial ceremony was held on June 1 that year, and from then on, Dr. Sun Yat-sen has rested here.

Viewing Artifacts (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The mausoleum, backed by green hills and facing a plain, is shaped like an alarm bell. Its buildings are all covered with blue glazed tiles, and the archway, gate, tablet pavilion, memorial hall, and tomb chamber are aligned along a central axis, connected by broad granite steps. The ensemble is compact, complete, and magnificent.

Monument in the Tablet Hall (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Inside the memorial hall, there is a copy of 'The Outline of National Construction' in Sun Yat-sen's own calligraphy, and a seated statue of Sun Yat-sen occupies the center. The tomb chamber houses his recumbent statue. Making use of the mountain terrain and natural barriers, the design integrates solitary structures into a whole with expansive lawns and wide stone steps, amidst towering pines and verdant cypresses. It embodies both the spirit of the times and a distinctly national style, ranking as a masterpiece of modern large-scale architectural groups.

Gate of 'The World for All' (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum has weathered many vicissitudes. During the Japanese war of aggression against China, many scenic buildings were destroyed by artillery fire. After the founding of New China, the People's Government attached great importance to its preservation. When Marshal Liu Bocheng served as mayor of Nanjing, he specially had 20,000 fir and parasol trees transplanted from Hunan and planted around the mausoleum. In 1961, it was designated a National Key Cultural Relics Protection Unit.

Blossoms in Profusion (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Over the past four decades, the mausoleum park has been continuously renovated and expanded, now covering a total area of over 3,000 hectares. The surroundings are lush and scenic. Since the reform and opening-up, the management department has carried out several large-scale afforestation projects on Zijin Mountain, replanting hundreds of thousands of cedar trees alone. Meanwhile, new technologies and advanced management methods have been adopted to strengthen forest protection, pest control, and fire prevention. Today, this area is a vast sea of forests, ablaze with flowers, and in every season, the scenery is breathtakingly beautiful.

Shady Green Trees (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

In spring, thousands of plum blossoms on Meihua Mountain vie for splendor, and over 250 acres of plum orchards fill the air with subtle fragrance, attracting throngs of admirers. In summer, wisteria hangs low at the Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum Music Stage, as if comforting the spirits. Liuhui Xie and Zixia Lake offer refreshing coolness, and the tree-lined Mausoleum Avenue becomes a shady corridor, creating a cool, pleasant world. In autumn, historical sites like Songfeng Pavilion and Baogong Pagoda are nestled among green leaves and yellow flowers, while tens of thousands of osmanthus trees in Linggu Park perfume the air. In winter, Zijin Mountain looks even more majestic, and the cedar trees around the mausoleum area stand out with their verdant, upright elegance.

In Front of the Presidential Palace Gate (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Braving the drizzling rain, my fellow travelers paid their respects at Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum with great interest. Since there were so many renowned scenic spots in Nanjing and time was limited, the original afternoon group visit to the Nanjing Massacre Memorial Hall was changed to free exploration. So, I joined some of the group to visit the famous Presidential Palace.

Pavilions and Waterside Structures (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Located at 292 Changjiang Road in Nanjing, the Presidential Palace has a history of over 600 years, according to records. In the early Ming Dynasty, it was the residence of Guide Marquis and Han Prince. During the Qing Dynasty, it housed the Jiangning Weaving Office, the Jiangnan Governor's Office, and the Liangjiang Governor's Office. Emperors Kangxi and Qianlong both used it as their 'temporary palace' during their southern tours.

Scenery Inside the Presidential Palace (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

In March 1853, the Taiping army captured Nanjing and established Tianjing as its capital. Hong Xiuquan built the vast Heavenly Palace of the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom here. After Qing forces retook Nanjing, they burned down the palace, and in 1870 (the ninth year of the Tongzhi reign), the Liangjiang Governor's Office was rebuilt. Figures such as Lin Zexu, Zeng Guofan, Li Hongzhang, Liu Kunyi, Shen Baozhen, Zuo Zongtang, Zhang Zhidong, and Duan Fang all served as Liangjiang governors.

Corridor in the Presidential Palace (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

After the 1911 Revolution, on January 1, 1912, Sun Yat-sen took the oath of office here as the Provisional President of the Republic of China and established the first republican government in Chinese history—the Provisional Government of the Republic of China. In April 1912, the provisional government ended, and the Nanjing Garrison Office, headed by Huang Xing, was set up here. During the 'Second Revolution' in 1913, it became the headquarters of the Anti-Yuan Army, with Huang Xing and He Haiming successively serving as commanders.

Exhibition in the Presidential Palace (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

From 1913 to 1927, the site housed various institutions, including the Jiangsu Military Governor's Office, the Jiangsu Governor's General Office, the Jiangsu Marshal's Office, the Vice President's Office, the Pacification Commissioner's Office, the Headquarters of the Five-Province Allied Army, and the Joint Office of the Zhili-Shandong Allied Army. Military and political leaders such as Cheng Dequan, Zhang Xun, Li Chun, Qi Xieyuan, Lu Yongxiang, Feng Guozhang, Sun Chuanfang, Yang Yuting, and Zhang Zongchang held office here.

Central Exhibition Area of the Presidential Palace (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Shortly after the establishment of the Nanjing National Government in April 1927, it moved here in September of that year. In October 1928, the government adopted the five-Yuan system, converting the East Garden into the Executive Yuan office and the West Garden into the General Staff Headquarters and the Comptroller's Office of the National Government.

Presidential Palace Garden (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Until November 1937, Tan Yankai, Chiang Kai-shek, and Lin Sen served as President of the National Government; Tan Yankai, T.V. Soong, Chiang Kai-shek, Chen Mingshu (acting), Sun Ke, and Wang Jingwei served as Premier of the Executive Yuan; Li Jishen, He Yingqin, Zhu Peide, Chiang Kai-shek, and Cheng Qian served as Chief of the General Staff; and Chen Qicai served as Comptroller General.

Fuyuan Garden of the Presidential Palace (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

After the fall of Nanjing in December 1937, the National Government compound was successively occupied by the Japanese 16th Division Headquarters, the Executive Yuan of the puppet Reform Government, and the Legislative Yuan, Control Yuan, and Examination Yuan of Wang Jingwei's puppet government. The East Garden housed the puppet Ministries of Communications and Railways, while the West Garden became the puppet Military Advisory Council.

Executive Yuan in the Presidential Palace (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

After the National Government returned to Nanjing in May 1946, the compound remained its seat. The East Garden accommodated the Ministry of Social Affairs, Ministry of Land Administration, Ministry of Water Resources, and Overseas Chinese Affairs Commission. The West Garden housed the Comptroller's Office, the Operations Department, the Military Affairs Bureau of the Presidential Office, and the Capital Garrison Command.

Stone Window Frames in the Courtyard (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

On May 20, 1948, after Chiang Kai-shek and Li Zongren were elected President and Vice President respectively at the 'National Assembly for Enacting the Constitution', the National Government was renamed the Presidential Palace. On April 23, 1949, Nanjing was liberated, and the next day, the People's Liberation Army occupied the Presidential Palace. From then on, a new chapter in Chinese history began.

Historical Archives Exhibition Hall (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

For nearly 50 years after the liberation, the Presidential Palace served as government offices. Starting in the 1980s, the offices gradually relocated, and in 1998, construction of the China Modern History Relics Museum began on the site. After meticulous planning and five years of construction, it took shape by 2003. Today, the museum covers a total area of 90,000 square meters and is divided into three exhibition zones.

Stone Boat in the Garden (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The central zone (the central axis) mainly features the National Government, Presidential Palace, and affiliated institutions. The west zone includes Sun Yat-sen's Temporary Presidential Office, the Secretariat, the West Garden, and the General Staff Headquarters. The east zone primarily houses the Executive Yuan site, stables, and the East Garden. A series of exhibition halls and historical archives are distributed across these three areas.

Convoy Passing Through a Tunnel (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Walking into the Presidential Palace, I saw that along the three visiting routes, the museum had set up 11 halls of varying sizes, using a wealth of artifacts and restored displays to showcase the evolution of modern Chinese history. Among the many precious photos and artifacts, items such as the wedding photo of Chiang Kai-shek and Soong Mei-ling, the 'Chiang Chung-cheng' bronze seal used by Chiang during the War of Resistance, the official order regarding the relocation of the National Government to Chongqing, the design draft of the Blue Sky and White Sun flag, Song Mei-ling's handwritten letter to Chiang during the Xi'an Incident, and the saber Wang Jingwei carried when he became puppet president were rarely seen treasures that drew crowds of visitors.

Night View of Confucius Temple (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Strolling through the gardens of the Presidential Palace was also a delightful experience. Corridors, rockeries, pavilions, waterside structures, flowers, trees, and landscaped gardens—every corner presented a charming scene. Closing my eyes, I imagined the earth-shattering events that had taken place here. To tread upon ground once walked by so many historical figures was, in itself, a rare and memorable experience...

Night View of Qinhuai River (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Nanjing's nightscape is beautiful, and the area around Confucius Temple and the Qinhuai River is even more enchanting. Boats with flickering candlelight drift along the river; on the banks, brilliant lights create a kaleidoscope of colors.

Photo at Qinhuai River (Photo: Zhang Jingping)

Endless streams of bustling crowds, countless Qinhuai-style snacks and dishes, and a variety of brand-name boutiques all converged here. In the evening, fellow travelers gathered in these spots, enjoying their first wonderful evening in Nanjing on this journey. (Text and photos: Feng Ganyong)