Maple Leaves in Jinling, Culture in Dragon City, Gardens in Gusu – Discover the Unique Charm of Jiangsu's Three Cities: Nanjing, Changzhou, and Suzhou

A splash of maple in Jinling, the poetic charm of Dragon City, the bridges and canals of Gusu – these make up one of the most beautiful winter scenes in Jiangsu. This winter, I traveled to Nanjing, Changzhou, and Suzhou in Jiangsu to seek out a different kind of Jiangnan charm.

First stop: Nanjing. I arrived right during the best viewing season for the red maples on Qixia Mountain. To see autumn maples in the south, Qixia Mountain in Nanjing is the place. Each autumn, red maples blanket the mountain, and the prime time is from late November to December. Miss it, and you'll have to wait another year.

Qixia Mountain is hailed as "Jinling's First Mountain of Bright Elegance." The name comes from the Qixia Buddhist retreat built here during the Southern Dynasties. As the saying goes, "One Qixia Mountain, half the history of Jinling" – which shows just how important it is to Nanjing. The autumn maples are the mountain's biggest draw. In the late autumn and early winter, come to Nanjing to enjoy the colorful romance of the Qixia red maple season. The "charm of the maples" is irresistible, and they pair perfectly with ancient architecture! The mountain bursts with color, beautifying all of Jinling, so tourists flock here, stopping constantly to admire the views and take photos.

The Qixia Mountain scenic area is quite large, with famous spots like Qixia Temple, the Relic Pagoda, Thousand Buddha Caves, and Red Leaf Valley. Each place has its own maple character, so plan your time wisely. It's best to enter the mountain at nine in the morning, as it gets very crowded after ten. The mountain boasts many types of red leaves, mainly sweetgum, along with red maple, Japanese maple, trident maple, full-moon maple, zelkova, and pistacia – all arranged in a beautiful, layered tapestry of color.

"In spring visit Niushou; in autumn, Qixia." The most beautiful scenery of the year on Qixia Mountain is concentrated in autumn. Compared to spring, summer, and winter, this is when the mountain is most captivating. Maple lovers should seize this window to feast their eyes on the leaves. It's not only a great place to photograph red maples but also a paradise for portrait photography. Wearing an ethereal white Hanfu and striking a few casual poses under the maple trees will yield a collection of stunning shots.

Following the main path forward, you'll reach Mingjing Lake, covering about 3,000 square meters and built during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty. The lake has a pavilion in the center connected to the shore by a zigzag bridge – an exquisite design. A stele inscribed with "Rainbow Bright Mirror" stands by the lake. Passing the lake, you arrive at Qixia Temple.

If you love the combination of ancient architecture and red maples, Qixia Temple is a must-see. With a long history, grand scale, and imposing presence, it is one of China's four great temples and the ancestral home of the Three Treatise Sect of Buddhism, holding an important place in Buddhism. Incense still burns here, and you can make a wish. Besides the red maples, the temple is famous for two enormous ginkgo trees, which are at their golden peak right now. Flanking the temple, they add an extra touch of poetry.

The red maples at the foot of Qixia Mountain are the most stunning, making this area many people's favorite spot for appreciating and photographing the leaves. The fiery red maples blaze like a rosy sunset, brimming with autumn atmosphere – a truly spectacular sight. If you're mainly here to take photos, the maple scenery at the mountain's base will keep you occupied all day.

Higher up on Qixia Mountain, there's a Maple Forest Lake located southwest of the highest peak, Fengxiang Peak, at an altitude of around 200 meters. Because of the higher elevation, the red leaves turn earlier here. By the lake stands the mountain's reddest maple tree, its leaves far more vivid than those below. The reflection of the lakeside maples in the water creates a colorful scene, just like an oil painting.

Walking into the forest area, you can enjoy the brilliant colors of the maples along the wooden boardwalks. The road winds through the fiery red maple forests. Venture deeper into Qixia Mountain and you'll see the leaves in all stages of color change – pale yellow, yellow-red, orange-red, bright red, purplish-red... trees and clusters of maple leaves, like sparks and flames, adorn the entire mountain landscape.

In Nanjing, there's also an internet-famous bookstore – Librairie Avant-Garde. This time, however, we're visiting the one at Nanjing Garden Expo Park. The exterior is uniquely designed – a former cement silo. It has an interesting backstory: when the Garden Expo Park was built, all damaged structures were to be restored, including the old cement factory buildings. Those ten cement silos got a new name: Avant-Garde Bookstore.

Just as the bookstore's motto says, "Strangers on the earth," it conveys a sense of human existence against the vastness of the universe. Inside, an exquisite spiral staircase left me spellbound. Stacks of books spiral upward, forming a beautiful picture. This wall of books has become an iconic photo spot.

Dragon City – Changzhou – is a place rich in history and culture. Stepping into Changzhou, I went to feel the marks left by countless literati over a thousand years.

The first stop in Changzhou's old town was Qingguo Lane, known in ancient times as Qianguo Lane. One of Changzhou's oldest streets, it is hailed as "the First Lane of Jiangnan's Famous Gentlemen." This 400-meter lane brims with the refined poetic charm of Changzhou's old city. The entire lane is dotted with ancient architectural clusters from the Ming, Qing, and Republican periods, along with hundreds of distinctive former residences of notable figures. The strong Ming and Qing architectural style creates a quiet, elegant, and atmospheric setting, and you can also sample authentic local Changzhou cuisine.

"One Qingguo Lane, half the history of Dragon City" – this is the cultural heart of Changzhou. Its literary tradition dates back to the Tang Dynasty. Once home to generations of noble scholar-official families, the lane is permeated with the scent of books and ink. Every little bridge and flowing stream reveals Changzhou's profound cultural depth.

With its white walls, dark tiles, red lanterns, and green willows, the timeless Qingguo Lane stands as a record of Changzhou's development and prosperity in classic style. Remarkably, it hasn't changed much, still maintaining its original character.

The old street is also embracing a new look. Trendy cafés have added youthful vitality to Qingguo Lane. The giant installation of two paper cups has become a favorite photo spot for young people.

Changzhou's intangible cultural heritage food, shrimp cake, is another specialty of Qingguo Lane. You can smell the aroma from afar – be sure to try one!

Su Dongpo's former residence – Changzhou was Su Dongpo's favorite city. He visited it 11 times and eventually settled there until his death. To commemorate him, a Su Dongpo Memorial Hall was built at the place where he used to disembark from his boat.

The construction of the hall followed three principles: first, respect history and protect the cultural relics as much as possible – not a single nail was added, not a single brick moved, preserving the ancient building's original appearance. Second, a solemn style – all exhibitions follow the Jiangnan style of the Song Dynasty, with light, elegant colors and an unadorned, spacious layout. Third, rich content – through a meticulously designed garden landscape, the highlights are gradually revealed, fully showcasing Dongpo's brilliant life and his deep connection with Changzhou.

"Thank you, lingering lamp, for not shunning this guest; in my lonely boat, I'll spend the night with you" – these lines perfectly capture Su Dongpo's bond with Changzhou.

🌟Comb Lane – Since ancient times, Changzhou has been famous for making combs and fine-toothed combs, known as "palace combs and famous combs" and "Changzhou combs, the best under heaven." This whole street is lined with households making these combs. One of Changzhou's Eight Scenic Views, "Comb Beam Lanterns," tells of the street's past prosperity.

At the entrance of Biji Street, you'll see a tall archway inscribed with "Grand Pier," which, as the name suggests, marks the location of the old port. Stepping into a comb shop along the street, you'll see a dazzling array of exquisitely crafted combs – deepening my appreciation for this everyday item.

In Changzhou, you can't miss the fish head from Taihu Lake. At Tianmu Lake Hotel, I tasted the most authentic Tianmu Lake giant fish head. The broth was thick as milk and incredibly fragrant – you could smell it the moment it was served.

Today, Tianmu Lake fish head in clay pot has not only become a signature dish of Changzhou cuisine but has also been selected as one of the top ten dishes of Jiangsu cuisine. Tasting the fish head soup at Tianmu Lake is now a "must-do" when visiting Changzhou.

There's another century-old restaurant in Changzhou you must try: Detai Heng. With over a hundred years of history and a vintage ambiance, you can taste all ten of Changzhou's famous delicacies here.

"Eight Immortals Fortune Rice" is a sweet but not cloying eight-treasure rice pudding.

"Qianlong's Crab Paste" and "Filial Son's Net-oil Rolls" are dishes with stories behind them – the crab paste, especially, is incredibly fresh and delicious.

You can also enjoy fresh stir-fried shrimp, small sesame cakes, pig trotters, and lotus seeds – all the most authentic Changzhou dishes, definitely worth a visit.

Revisiting Gusu City, I always feel that Suzhou is a place I can never tire of photographing. And the first stop on my dream stay in Gusu was the familiar Zhouzhuang – the ancient town of my dreams.

Zhouzhuang, one of the Six Great Ancient Towns of Jiangnan, is a water town of small bridges and flowing streams – a dream on water, with its own unique charm both day and night.

When talking about ancient Jiangnan water towns, many people's first thought is Zhouzhuang. Dubbed "China's No. 1 Water Town," it is one of the Six Great Ancient Towns of Jiangnan. With a long history and typical Jiangnan water town scenery, combined with its unique cultural landscape, it is a treasure of Chinese water town culture and Wu regional culture.

Today, Zhouzhuang still preserves remarkably intact Ming and Qing architecture. Within just 0.47 square kilometers, there are nearly a hundred classical residences and over sixty brick-carved gatehouses, bearing witness to how prosperous Zhouzhuang once was. In the past, Zhouzhuang was a bustling hub for merchants, holding a position in Jiangnan akin to that of Shanghai today. Therefore, many famous figures emerged from here, the most renowned being Shen Wansan, the wealthiest man in the entire country during his time.

Zhouzhuang at night is truly breathtaking. Lanterns of various shapes light up all at once, as if celebrating the New Year early. While Zhouzhuang by day is peaceful and natural, by night it is enchanting and full of charm. When modern lights blend with ancient scenery, the interplay of past and present creates a fascinating sense of wonder.

"When you come to Gusu, you'll see houses all nestled along the river." An illusory dream – the night of Zhouzhuang. The glittering reflections of lanterns in Zhouzhuang's nightscape reminded me of the verse, "In the dimming twilight, amid the sound of oars and lantern shadows." After dusk, the lanes and lights interweave, creating a scene of exquisite Jiangnan lantern shadows, where you might even encounter an elegant beauty.

Suzhou Museum – a masterpiece by architect I.M. Pei. It exudes a meditative Chinese style, full of ink-wash charm, and the collections inside are truly eye-opening. The Suzhou Museum is the most complete surviving building from the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom, housing 41,109 cultural relics. It's also a comprehensive local history museum. For many visitors, admiring the architecture is more important than viewing the artifacts. The museum blends the classical Chinese style of the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom's royal mansion with the garden scenery of an ink-wash Jiangnan – every detail reflects exquisite craftsmanship. Taking photos here has become even more of a priority than seeing the exhibitions, simply because it's so beautiful. Look at the building's reflection in the pool – simple lines sketch out a unique garden scene, just like an ink painting.

Humble Administrator's Garden – a World Cultural Heritage site, a masterpiece of classical Jiangnan gardens, and a treasured legacy of Chinese garden art. With its winding corridors, shimmering reflections, delightful atmosphere, and ornate decoration, the Humble Administrator's Garden is the quintessential Suzhou garden. In late autumn and early winter, the garden is equally stunning, bursting with color – a casual snapshot becomes a beautiful Jiangnan scene.

The Humble Administrator's Garden is a typical Chinese garden with over 500 years of history. It has always been a popular attraction in Suzhou and was once the residence of the Jin Dynasty writer Pan Yue. It is narrow from north to south and long from east to west, featuring hills and water that embody Jiangnan water town scenery. Various buildings are constructed by the water, creating a charming, well-spaced layout. Highlights include Lanxue Hall, Yuanxiang Hall, and the Little Flying Rainbow covered bridge.

The garden fully embodies the essence of Jiangnan garden aesthetics. One of its features is the management of diverse aquatic plants, allowing water weeds, lotus, and fish to thrive together, becoming part of the garden landscape and balancing its ecology. In the eastern, central, and western sections, the central pond area is the focal point, with pavilions and towers built along the water. The planting is also meticulously planned, with lotus flowers, slender bamboo, willows, citrus, and beautiful bamboo arranged throughout the garden. You can wander the entire garden to see these distinctive sights – perfect for photography. The entire garden revolves around water, with enchanting pavilions and towers surrounded by hills and streams.

The Humble Administrator's Garden is steeped in Jiangnan water town characteristics, with every scene mirrored in its waters. Natural streams and ponds create interconnected water surfaces, linking the garden together and making it easier to explore.

Wangyan Hot Spring – Winter is here, so of course it's time to soak in hot springs, and not just any soak, but one with a view. Wangyan Hot Spring by Taihu Lake is the perfect spot. Soak in the Instagram-famous infinity pool facing Taihu Lake and savor the warm happiness of a winter day. Wangyan Hot Spring focuses on outdoor hot springs, with over forty pools "as natural as nature itself, blending into nature" and scattered throughout the garden – a grand aesthetic of oriental garden hot springs that unites man and nature. The spring originates from the "Longqiu Sweet Spring," one of the "Eight Views of Songling," and has branched into over a dozen therapeutic pools with different benefits. Combined with Sino-Western ecological wellness and spa treatments, you can steal a day of leisure in the cozy warmth of the springs.

Suzhou cuisine – One unmissable delicacy in Zhouzhuang is Wansan Trotter, which originated from the household of Shen Wansan in the Ming Dynasty. It was a must-have dish for entertaining honored guests – tender and flavorful, salty-sweet, and rich without being greasy.

And when you're in Suzhou, you have to try Su-style noodles, especially the signature crab roe noodles and three-shrimp noodles. The crab roe noodles are the most special. Originating in Suzhou, the authentic version is sweet. The crab roe topping is aromatic and eye-catching – a whole bowl of golden crab roe is served on the side. Every strand of noodle is coated in the fresh, savory taste of crab, utterly irresistible.