Explore Golmud in Qinghai: A Feast of Breathtaking Scenery
Travel to Qinghai has become very popular in recent years, with flights and train tickets to many cities hard to come by. The first stop of our summer trip was Golmud.
This emerging internet-famous city is home to spectacular and unique check-in spots such as the Kunlun Grand Canyon and Kunlun Mountain Pass.
Golmud has a train station and an airport, but there are no bullet trains or high-speed rails for now. You can take a direct train to Golmud, or fly to Xining or Lanzhou first and then transfer by train. Flights to Golmud are not very frequent, so you usually need to transit through another city.
Both transportation hubs are quite close to the city center, making taxis very convenient.
Golmud is a county-level city and the second-largest city in Qinghai Province. To explore it thoroughly, you need at least 4 days, plus 2 days for round-trip travel, totaling 6 days. It is recommended to stay in the downtown area, which has a vibrant local atmosphere and convenient transportation.
For traveling here, you can drive yourself, hire a car, or join a local tour group. If you choose self-driving, you must have an off-road vehicle for visiting the Kunlun Grand Canyon and Qarhan Salt Lake on the same day.
In summer, the highest temperature in Golmud is below 30°C, and most of the time it does not exceed 28°C. It stays relatively cool throughout the day, similar to autumn temperatures in eastern coastal cities. However, when the sun is shining, the UV rays are strong, so be sure to apply sun protection when going out.
Generally, wearing a pair of long pants, a short-sleeved shirt, and a long-sleeved shirt is sufficient. However, some places are windy, and shaded areas can be quite cool, so it is advisable to bring an extra spring/autumn jacket or a windbreaker. A down jacket is basically unnecessary.
If possible, prepare a highland scarf to cover your neck and most of your face to avoid sunburn. Avoid wearing shorts and short sleeves; even if you don't feel cold, you risk getting sunburned and peeling, and the constant wind can also increase the likelihood of altitude sickness.
Make sure to bring plenty of drinking water, as there are relatively few shops along the way.
It is advisable not to shower on the first day after arriving in Golmud. Starting from the second day, you can shower depending on the situation, but do not shower for too long to avoid altitude sickness. If you already have mild symptoms of altitude sickness, please do not shower. When going out, protect your head and neck, as wind exposure in these areas can also trigger altitude sickness.
Overall, as long as you are cautious when traveling on the plateau, most people can have a great time. If you have experienced severe altitude sickness before, it is recommended not to travel to high-altitude areas.
Considering that we had just arrived on the plateau, we planned a relatively relaxed itinerary for the first day. Our first check-in was the Populus Euphratica Desert Park.
This scenic area is about a 1-hour drive from downtown Golmud. When you see the "Populus Euphratica Forest" sign, you officially enter the sightseeing area. To see the magnificent poplar forest, you need to drive a bit further inside.
The most beautiful season for the poplar forest is late autumn, but the vibrant summer scenery is also pleasing to the eyes.
The poplar trees in the Golmud Populus Euphratica Forest Scenic Area come in various shapes—some resemble camels, some look like graceful maidens, others like galloping horses, and some have died but still stand tall with a spirited posture.
The altitude here is 2,800 meters, and the poplar forest stretches over 1,700 mu (about 283 acres). The desolate landscape is filled with upward life force, making it an excellent spot for photography. It is recommended to bring brightly colored clothes in advance.
The General's Tower Park is located at the intersection of Jiaotong Alley and Kaituo Street in Golmud. To understand the city's development and the history of the Qinghai-Tibet Highway, you must visit this place.
Inside the park is a two-story building called the General's Tower, where General Mu Shengzhong once worked and lived. He led the road construction army to build the Qinghai-Tibet Highway, and the hardships of the process are deeply moving.
The General's Tower is also the first building in Golmud. General Mu Shengzhong and his team built Golmud City while constructing the Qinghai-Tibet Highway, which has a history of over 50 years.
Over 50 years later, Golmud has become increasingly beautiful, and the stories of the road construction army have been passed down through generations.
Useful information: Both the Populus Euphratica Forest Scenic Area and the General's Tower Park are free to enter.
Leaving downtown Golmud, we drove along National Highway 315 for several hours to reach the Taijinaier Luxury Wild Town.
In recent years, G315 has become very popular online because it crosses deserts and Gobi, with many spots offering breathtaking visual effects.
A special check-in point along G315 is the Taijinaier Luxury Wild Town. The land here is desolate with a yellow hue, but most of the time it is set against blue skies and white clouds, resembling the surface of Mars or scenes from a fantasy movie.
Taijinaier Luxury Wild Town is located at kilometer 894 of G315, only 5 kilometers from Wutai Yadan (Water Yadan) and 3 kilometers from East Taijinaier Lake.
The white houses and 360-degree panoramic dome star-gazing rooms here are highly aesthetic. At night, they are perfect for stargazing and moon viewing; during the day, they are great for photos and relaxation. Wearing brightly colored clothes outdoors makes for stunning photos.
In ancient Chinese mythology, the Kunlun Mountains are considered sacred mountains, the birthplace of the Chinese dragon vein, and the ancestor of all mountains. They are where the Queen Mother of the West resides and where Jiang Ziya achieved enlightenment. In many xianxia dramas, the Kunlun Mountains and Kunlun Ruins are equally ethereal and mysterious.
Our third day of the trip was dedicated to a panoramic view of the Kunlun Mountains.
Our first check-in was the Kunlun Sacred Spring, followed by the Wuji Longfeng Palace, Kunlun Mountain Pass, and Sanjiangyuan (Three Rivers Source). These attractions are all located along National Highway 109.
The Kunlun Sacred Spring is located in Nacitai Town, southwest of Golmud, about 94 kilometers from the city center. The altitude here is 3,700 meters. The spring never freezes year-round, maintaining a constant temperature of 7°C in both winter and summer. Because of its sweet and pure taste, it is called "Glacier Nectar."
Leaving the Kunlun Sacred Spring and continuing along G109, we soon arrived at the Wuji Longfeng Palace, about 110 kilometers from downtown Golmud. Legend has it that this is where Jiang Ziya achieved enlightenment. The palace sits at an altitude of 3,800 meters, making it the highest-altitude Taoist temple in China. The surrounding cliffs are barren and devoid of vegetation, adding to its mystique.
The Wuji Longfeng Palace is grand and elegant, featuring the style of Han-style palace architecture, with subtle influences from Northwestern ethnic architecture.
Leaving Wuji Longfeng Palace, our next stop was Yuzhu Peak, with a viewing platform right next to National Highway 109.
Yuzhu Peak has an altitude of 6,178 meters and is covered in snow year-round. It contrasts magnificently with the swiftly moving clouds.
Continuing onward, we reached the Kunlun Mountain Pass.
The Kunlun Mountain Pass is about 158 kilometers from downtown Golmud. It is the only route from Qinghai and Gansu provinces to Lhasa and an important pass and midway viewing station in the Kunlun Mountains.
The altitude here is 4,767 meters. The surrounding area is desolate, but under its grandeur, it exudes a heroic beauty.
There are many landmarks at the Kunlun Mountain Pass. Many passing travelers leave souvenir photos here, marking their arrival.
This area is also part of the Hoh Xil Nature Reserve. Continuing along the road leads to the vast uninhabited region. Tourists usually return after visiting the Sanjiangyuan National Park.
Sanjiangyuan National Park includes the sources of the Yellow River, Yangtze River, and Lancang River. It is desolate and vast, but the scenery is magnificent. The distant peaks of the Kunlun Mountains seem to be wearing top hats and smiling at visitors.
Tip: The altitude on the third day's itinerary is relatively high. It is recommended not to run or jump—we jumped only after acclimatizing to the plateau environment. Bring some oxygen and basic medicine in the car. If you feel unwell, it is best to rest in the car and return to the city as soon as possible. There are plenty of great photo spots along the way, and casual, brightly colored attire is still the best choice.
No tickets are required for the entire day's itinerary, offering great value. Since it is difficult to find places to eat along the way, prepare some dry food in advance.
Check-in at the Kunlun Grand Canyon and Qarhan Salt Lake.
The Kunlun Grand Canyon is part of the Kunlun Mountains Geopark, about 15 kilometers from the main Qinghai-Tibet Highway. We focused on visiting the core area.
The Kunlun Grand Canyon is a beautiful scar left by geological evolution. Here, the canyon is deep, streams flow, and there are numerous "line-sky" landscapes, resembling a mysterious prehistoric fantasy world. With basic photography skills, you can easily capture stunning images with any equipment.
The Kunlun Grand Canyon has not been heavily developed, retaining its relatively original and natural features. It was a niche attraction a few years ago but has now become a phenomenal internet sensation. The sight of off-road vehicles splashing through water and the ever-changing cliffs fascinate countless tourists. We also pledged to visit after seeing photos and videos online.
Leaving the Kunlun Grand Canyon, we followed the convoy to Qarhan Salt Lake. The lake's surface is at an altitude of 2,680 meters. On clear days, the lake water appears emerald green, creating a dreamy and eye-soothing visual effect. It is an excellent spot for portrait photography. Women look great in red, yellow, or blue clothes, while men can pair casual wear with sunglasses for a cool travel vibe.
Qarhan Salt Lake is the largest salt lake in China, with salt reserves sufficient for the global population for two thousand years. It is also a must-visit scenic spot on the Northwest Grand Loop.
Tip: Qarhan Salt Lake is currently undergoing renovation. It is recommended to check in advance whether it is open to the public before driving there. The ticket price includes a scenic bus and is 100 yuan, though the specific price may fluctuate at different times. It is advisable to book online or consult the scenic area in advance.
A good hotel in Golmud is the Golmud Hotel. There are also many business hotels and tourist hotels with moderate prices. The area has many Sichuan-style restaurants and pot-roasted chicken restaurants, with flavors that most people can adapt to.
