Golmud | Heading West, a Three-Day, Two-Night Journey Exploring the Kunlun Mountains and the Scenery Between the Gobi Desert and Salt Flats
Some say: Distant Qinghai is synonymous with 'poetry and the faraway.' Others say: The most beautiful scenery of Qinghai is on the road. Qinghai is rich in natural resources, with complex terrain and diverse landforms, possessing almost all landscape types that represent western China. Here, mountain ranges crisscross, lakes are numerous, and whether it's highland basins or vast desert river valleys, they can be seen everywhere. It is precisely this inclusiveness and diversity that have led more and more people to choose to travel to Qinghai. Writer Shan Zhiqiang once wrote: 'Coming to Qinghai is like going to Tibet, visiting Gansu, and touring Xinjiang.' Faced with such an irresistible tourist destination, I naturally couldn't resist wanting to see it for myself. So I came to the largest county-level city in China—Golmud, Qinghai—heading west to explore the scenery between the Kunlun Mountains and the Gobi Desert salt flats.
When mentioning Qinghai, many images inevitably come to mind: the source of three rivers, Kanbula, the Dreamlike Salt Lake, the Heavenly Jing of Qilian, the world-famous Hoh Xil, the breathtaking rapeseed flowers of Menyuan... Like many people who love travel, for someone like me who has long lingered in eastern cities, I also harbor a restless dream of the northwest. I also want, like many fellow travelers, to journey with scenery and song, with freedom and gains all along the way.
Although Golmud is only a county-level city, it has an extremely vast administrative area, even larger than some provinces like Jiangsu and Zhejiang. It is the second largest city in Qinghai Province after the provincial capital, Xining. Although Golmud is sparsely populated, with many uninhabited areas, it boasts extremely rich tourism resources. Within its territory, there are not only attractions like the source of the Yangtze River, the Ten-Thousand-Foot Salt Bridge, the General's Building, and the Populus euphratica forest, but also internet-famous spots like the 'Sky Mirror,' the most beautiful highway, and the水上雅丹 (Water Yadan). Many friends who love watching short videos will surely relate to this.
Although Golmud is only a county-level city, it has an extremely vast administrative area, even larger than some provinces like Jiangsu and Zhejiang. It is the second largest city in Qinghai Province after the provincial capital, Xining. Although Golmud is sparsely populated, with many uninhabited areas, it boasts extremely rich tourism resources. Within its territory, there are not only attractions like the source of the Yangtze River, the Ten-Thousand-Foot Salt Bridge, the General's Building, and the Populus euphratica forest, but also internet-famous spots like the 'Sky Mirror,' the most beautiful highway, and the Water Yadan. Many friends who love watching short videos will surely relate to this.
2022/07/01 Day 1: Populus euphratica forest scenic area—General's Building
2022/07/02 Day 2: Kunlun Sacred Spring—Wuji Longfeng Palace
2022/07/03 Day 3: Kunlun Mountains Grand Canyon—Return
1. Golmud Airport: Since direct flights are relatively few, you can transfer via Xi'an, Zhengzhou, or Xining, where there are more flights and greater choices to better arrange your itinerary.
2. It is recommended to self-drive. Golmud's area is quite large, being the largest county-level city in China. The scenic spots within its territory are relatively scattered and far apart. Taking public transportation would waste a lot of time, so if conditions permit, it is advisable to rent a car and self-drive or hire a car to save travel time significantly.
1. About altitude sickness: Because Golmud is located in a high-altitude region, especially with the majestic Kunlun Mountains winding through its territory, altitude sickness is possible. To better enjoy the trip and avoid altitude sickness, it is advisable to drink Rhodiola rosea half a month before departure, bring oxygen on the trip, avoid taking a bath or washing hair on the first night, avoid strenuous exercise as much as possible, and most importantly, do not catch a cold. If you do experience altitude sickness, don't worry; Golmud's medical facilities are quite adequate; seek medical attention promptly.
2. About beliefs: Golmud is a multi-ethnic area, with Hui, Tibetan, and Mongolian ethnic groups being the majority. When it comes to food, communication, etc., respect the beliefs of the local people.
Luggage and Photography Equipment
1. Packing luggage: 1. Change of clothes and personal toiletries. 2. In July, the temperature in Golmud is not as hot as imagined; it is generally around 30°C, but the ultraviolet rays are strong, so be sure to protect yourself from the sun. 3. Since the itinerary involves mountain climbing, prepare hiking shoes, mountain climbing clothes, and other gear. 4. Try to bring your own toiletries when going out; be environmentally conscious. 2. Photography equipment: 1. Sony A7M2 with lens 24-70 and lens 16-35 2. GoPro Hero 4 3. Tripod 4. Spare batteries 5. iPhone 11 6. DJI drone Mavic 3. A full wallet: With the progress of the times, payment methods have undergone tremendous changes. Alipay and WeChat Pay have brought great convenience to our travels. Basically, when going out, you don't need to carry much cash; a smartphone is enough.
A semi-artsy older male youth who loves life, travel, music, reading, and writing. A global traveler, travel video expert, signed self-media on Sina Weibo, travel self-media. Please contact the author for reprinting; respect the original author's hard work. (Without written permission from the author, all forms of reproduction are strictly prohibited.)
——Travelogue begins——
Day 1: Populus euphratica forest scenic area—General's Building
The Populus euphratica forest scenic area is about 50 kilometers from downtown Golmud, with a drive of about an hour and a half. Round trip takes nearly three hours, plus the time spent in the scenic area. So in the itinerary, it is arranged for the morning of the first day, so around 3 p.m., you can return to the city and have time to visit the General's Building, which is located in the city center.
The highest altitude Populus euphratica forest in the world
'Climbing high to look out over heaven and earth, the great river flows away never to return. Yellow clouds for miles move with the wind; white waves in nine curves flow past snowy mountains.' It has vast land and abundant resources, magnificent rivers and mountains, primitive mystery, and unique charm. Here are China's most beautiful mountains and Huaxia's most beautiful lakes, encompassing both the majesty and grandeur of plateaus and deserts, and the fertility and charm of river valleys and water towns. Some say it is the last pure land on earth, others say it is the place with the most 'internet-famous spots' in China... It is the ultimate outdoor destination that captivates countless travelers—Qinghai.
Finally, my dream came true! This time I was fortunate to visit the long-cherished Qinghai, and besides admiring the stunning lakes and flower seas, the Populus euphratica forest, symbolizing tenacious struggle as the 'Desert Guardian,' was also one of my key itinerary items. Now let's step into the Populus euphratica forest scenic area in Golmud, Qinghai, and experience the spirit of the Populus euphratica: 'Live a thousand years without dying, stand a thousand years after death without falling, and fall a thousand years without decaying.'
The Golmud Populus euphratica forest is about 50 kilometers from the city center, located in the northwest of the Aertunquke Grassland. It sits between the majestic Kunlun Mountains and the vast Gobi salt flats, and due to its high altitude (about 2,770 meters), it looks as if it grows on clouds, especially in late autumn when the golden forest is said to be a floating palace in the clouds. We know that the Populus euphratica is one of the rare ancient tree species in nature, often growing in deserts, known for its drought and waterlogging tolerance and strong vitality. As the only tree species capable of forming natural forests in deserts and sandy lands, the Populus euphratica forest is a precious forest resource unique to desert areas, mainly used for windbreak and sand fixation, creating suitable oasis climates and fertile soil, earning it the title 'Desert Guardian.'
China gathers about 60% of the world's Populus euphratica forests, almost all distributed in the northwest region. Although the scale of the Golmud Populus euphratica forest is far less than that along the Tarim River in Xinjiang, it is the only such forest in Qinghai and the highest altitude Populus euphratica forest in the world.
Driving west along the Gemang Highway, you can reach the Populus euphratica forest scenic area in about an hour. The vast Gobi along the way, with blue sky, white clouds, and desert vegetation, appears slightly dry but harmoniously interesting. Inside the scenic area, the seasonal river Tuolehai winds through the sandy land, with tall and dense Populus euphratica trees casting dappled shadows and changing postures. Though not as tall and shady as mountain trees, they are elegant, beautiful, and charming, revealing tenacity and vitality.
Roaming through the scenic area, besides witnessing the admirable spirit of the Populus euphratica, you can also enjoy the rolling yellow sand, capture beautiful sand river scenery. The area also features modern entertainment facilities such as skywalks, rainbow slides, real-life CS battlegrounds, and desert extreme sports for tourists to experience a different kind of trip.
Of course, the best time to view the Populus euphratica forest is in late autumn. Every October, the Populus euphratica turns from green to yellow, creating a golden expanse as far as the eye can see, like blazing flames in the vastness, gorgeous and dazzling, without autumn's bleakness or the desert's desolation, only the beauty of nature and the tenacity of life.
The first modern building in the area | General's Building
Almost every city has its own park, which serves as the backdrop for countless stories and a gathering place for people's joys and sorrows. Some are known for cultural heritage, others for ecological beauty; in any case, they seem to carry special significance. On this trip to Golmud, I naturally wouldn't miss the park regarded as the most special in the area—the General's Building Park.
We know that Golmud is the largest county-level city in China and the second largest city in Qinghai Province after the provincial capital Xining. Although human habitation here can be traced back tens of thousands of years, it has only been about sixty years since it truly transformed from a regional concept into an actual city. The true establishment and creation of Golmud, a city born and thriving because of roads, is closely related to this General's Building Park.
General's Building Park is located on the site of the General's Building in Hexi, in the northwest corner of the outskirts of Golmud, Qinghai. It was built to commemorate the remarkable father of the Qinghai-Tibet Highway, the old General Mu Shengzhong. The park centers on the General's Building, the former command post of the Qinghai-Tibet Highway construction. Through gardens, sculptures, and other artistic forms, it clearly presents to the world the touching scenes of pioneers using blood and sweat to open the 'Heavenly Road' from the interior to Tibet, as well as the urban development history of Golmud.
Before and after the founding of New China, transportation between Qinghai and Tibet had always been a challenge. The complex terrain and harsh climate made primitive transport methods helpless, often at great cost. To solve the crisis of entering Tibet, Mu Shengzhong conceived the idea of building the Qinghai-Tibet Highway. He volunteered to the higher authorities and on May 11, 1954, led the construction team to begin work on the Golmud to Lhasa section of the Qinghai-Tibet Highway in Golmud. After more than seven months of arduous effort, the entire Qinghai-Tibet Highway was opened to traffic smoothly, facilitating exchanges between Tibet and the interior and contributing to the stable development of the country's border regions.
The park consists of three parts: the gate, the main building, and the auxiliary building. With blue bricks and gray surfaces, it is simple, generous, plain, and solemn, full of Golmud's regional and ethnic cultural characteristics. Even before entering the park, one cannot help but be drawn to the tall and unique herringbone sculpture inside—the park's landmark building, the Heavenly Road Memorial Tower commemorating the Qinghai-Tibet Highway and Railway. The tower's base is adorned with reliefs representing the two provinces of Qinghai and Tibet, with a total height of 39.16 meters, symbolizing the total mileage of the two heavenly roads (3,916 kilometers).
The core building in the park, the 'General's Building,' was personally led by the old General Mu Shengzhong, who along with his subordinates made adobe bricks and fired blue bricks on this vast desert Gobi, building the first two-story cave-style building. It was once the place where he worked and lived, also the former site of the Qinghai-Tibet Highway construction command post, and the first modern building in Golmud's history.
The rooms preserve old utensils and objects intact: kerosene lamps, canopy beds, old telephones, enamel mugs... They reflect the frugality of the builders at the time and also demonstrate the indomitable fighting spirit of the pioneers in the face of harsh natural environments. Apart from the profound Heavenly Road Memorial Tower and the General's Building expressing respect for the general, the park also has many solemn sculpture groups. These sculptures are magnificent, grand, and richly expressive, surrounded by flowers and greenery, inspiring awe. There are sculptures like 'Soul of the Road Builders' reflecting the arduous road construction, 'Beat Swords into Plowshares' reflecting military reclamation, 'Harmony' reflecting ethnic unity, and 'Majestic Kunlun' reflecting the Kunlun culture. Additionally, in the Mu Shengzhong General Memorial Hall, you can trace the history and stories of the Qinghai-Tibet Highway.
Day 2: Kunlun Sacred Spring—Wuji Longfeng Palace
Kunlun Sacred Spring and Wuji Longfeng Palace are on the same route. When arranging the itinerary, it's best to link these two attractions on the same day to save time and relatively reduce costs. However, since the altitude rises continuously from the 2,800-meter Golmud city area to nearly 4,000 meters at the Kunlun Mountain Pass, it indeed tests physical strength and lung capacity. So on today's itinerary, try to minimize vigorous activities such as running and jumping.
The mountain spring nurtured by the 'Ancestor of Ten Thousand Mountains' | Kunlun Sacred Spring
I believe many people have been attracted by the recent drama 'Dream of the Splendor' starring Liu Yifeng. In the drama, the actors' looks, the compelling plot, and the fairy-like filming locations are all impressive. Particularly when Liu Yifeng's character Zhao Pan'er performs tea artistry to counter a 'challenge' at the tea house, not only do the onlookers marvel, but netizens outside the screen also exclaim at being educated.
As we all know, good tea requires good water. As Zhang Youxin of the Tang Dynasty expressed in 'Book of Tea Water,' only when tea and water are properly matched can the best tea be obtained. And the 'Tea Saint' Lu Yu believed that 'living water' should be the first choice, with mountain spring water being the best. During this trip to Golmud, Qinghai, I encountered a local magical spring. Not only is it revered as a 'sacred spring' by locals, but it is also highly praised by many travelers, who say it tastes better than the expensive Evian mineral water from supermarkets. It is the Kunlun Sacred Spring.
Kunlun Sacred Spring, also called Kunlun Holy Spring, is located on the north bank of the Kunlun River deep in the 'Ancestor of Ten Thousand Mountains'—the Kunlun Mountains. It is about 90 kilometers from the southwest of downtown Golmud along National Highway 109, in the town of Nacitai, hence also known as Nacitai Clear Spring. This spring originates from the melting of snow and ice above 4,000 meters in the Kunlun Mountains, undergoes underground circulation for more than 20 years, and then, blocked by an east-west compressive fault on the north bank of the Kunlun River, it rises and gushes out. The water is clear, sweet, pure, and has a constant temperature, remaining unfrozen all year round. It is called a 'sacred' spring not only because it remains unfrozen in the cold area at an altitude of 3,540 meters but also due to ancient myths and legends.
In Tibetan, Nacitai means 'platform in the swamp,' signifying 'Buddha platform.' The Kunlun Mountains have long been the cradle of Chinese mythological legends, known as the 'First Divine Mountain of China.' According to legend, the sacred spring was formed from the heavenly nectar spilled by the Queen Mother of the West when she hosted a banquet for the gods by the Jade Pool in the Kunlun Mountains. Another legend says that when Princess Wencheng traveled to Tibet, she encountered wind and miasma and had no water to drink. She then placed the Jowo Buddha statue she had brought from Chang'an on a high platform and devoutly worshipped, moving the divine mountain to bestow the sacred spring. This spring thus earned the reputation of 'Holy Water of the Human World.'
Legends are just legends; we don't know the truth. In fact, Kunlun Sacred Spring is structural karst water formed by the melting of snow and ice in the high-cold region, flowing along structural fissures under gravity to emerge on the surface. It is a low-mineralization bicarbonate chloride, calcium-magnesium type mineral water. Due to long underground flow, many chemical elements beneficial to human health, such as calcium, magnesium, molybdenum, nickel, metasilicic acid, etc., are dissolved in it. Especially the strontium content, closely related to bone formation, reaches as high as 0.7 mg/L, more than three times higher than that in strontium-type natural mineral water recognized by the medical community as 'healthy water.' It is a rare high-quality strontium-containing drinking mineral water in the world, hence also called 'Glacier Nectar.'
Approaching Kunlun Sacred Spring, you see a clear stream silently gushing in the middle of the spring pool, forming crystal mushroom-like bubbles, neither overflowing nor running dry, spitting pearls and shedding jade. The spring pool is surrounded by polygonal patterns of stone slabs, and there are also reliefs, waterfalls, pavilions, and inscriptions for visitors to learn and enjoy. If you visit the sacred spring scenic area when it's crowded, you might see a spectacular scene of people holding empty bottles queuing. Apart from locals, tourists make up the majority. Since it is a必经之路 (must-pass point) on the world-roof auto expedition route, many self-driving tourists come here for water replenishment. The water is refreshing, with a sweet aftertaste, even better than bottled mineral water.
The highest altitude Taoist temple in the world | Wuji Longfeng Palace
As the saying goes: 'Worship at a temple when meeting a mountain; bow to Buddha when encountering a temple.' For those with a devout heart, even if there are religious differences, the reverent heart is always maintained. Just as during my trip to Jiuhua in Anhui I must worship at the Dizang Temple, and in Qingcheng in Sichuan I must visit the Tianshi Cave, on this trip to Golmud, Qinghai, facing the majestic Kunlun, the 'Ancestor of Ten Thousand Mountains,' I naturally could not miss the world's highest Taoist temple standing at an altitude of 3,800 meters—Wuji Longfeng Palace.
'If not among the jade peaks, then meet under the moonlit terrace.' The ancient and mysterious Kunlun Mountains are the cradle of Chinese mythological legends, known as the 'Source of Ten Thousand Mountains' and 'Ancestor of the Dragon Veins.' They are recorded in many ancient texts such as the 'Classic of Mountains and Seas,' 'Hetu,' and 'Huainanzi,' and were also the site of the Hunyuan lineage of Taoism in the late Ming Dynasty, earning the title 'First Divine Mountain of China.' The Wuji Longfeng Palace on our trip is a must-pass point for those traveling from Golmud to Hoh Xil or entering Tibet. Despite its desolate location, its scenery is charming. It is one of the important attractions in the Kunlun Mountain Taoist Scenic Area and is well-known as the place where Jiang Ziya attained enlightenment and ascended.
Wuji Longfeng Palace is located about 120 kilometers southwest of Golmud, Qinghai, beside National Highway 109. It can be reached directly by driving on Highway 109. At an altitude of 3,800 meters, it is a Kunlun Mountain Taoist temple dedicated to the Three Goddesses and one of the highest altitude Taoist temples in the world. Unlike the Taoist temples often hidden in deep mountain forests, Wuji Longfeng Palace sits at the foot of a cliff, surrounded by snow-capped mountains, with an excellent view. Due to the lack of eye-catching green trees and shade, and the overall grayish-white tone of the surroundings, it appears vast and desolate. However, against the blue sky, white clouds, and blazing sun, it looks even more splendid, golden, and transcendent.
The majestic mountain gate, the brilliant main hall, the red walls inscribed with the 'Tao Te Ching,' the gray stone pillars, and the solemn statue of Jiang Ziya with his mythical mount Sibu Xiang all seem mysterious and solemn, full of 'Taoist' significance. If you use a drone to shoot, from a God's-eye view, you'll notice the entire temple is shaped like a Tai Chi Bagua (yin-yang) symbol. Combined with the vast and deep surrounding environment, one cannot help but marvel at the wonders of the Tao of heaven, earth, and all things. The main hall has two floors, decorated with golden tile roofs, upturned eaves, carved beams and painted rafters, appearing grand and dazzling under the sunlight.
The first floor of the hall enshrines statues of the Five Mothers: the Queen Mother of the West, the Nine Heavens Mysterious Lady, the Golden Saint Old Mother, etc. The second floor enshrines the Three Pure Ones of Taoism, the Jade Emperor, and other deities. Additionally, there are various human and animal statues, all lifelike and beautifully shaped. Outside the hall, besides several stone tablets flanking the steps, there is a large golden incense burner in the middle for people to burn incense and make wishes. Almost every passing traveler stops here to sightsee, so despite Wuji Longfeng Palace's remote location, it never lacks in incense burners and visitors.
Day 3: Kunlun Mountains Grand Canyon
Since the third day is the last day of the itinerary, and considering flight time constraints, I arranged the Kunlun Mountains Grand Canyon for this day. First, consider the transportation issue. If arranged on the second day, potential traffic jams might make it too rushed to catch the return flight. So the best arrangement is to head directly to the airport after visiting the Kunlun Mountains Grand Canyon, avoiding traffic risks and having relatively sufficient time.
Unexpectedly discovered 'Chinese version of Antelope Canyon' | Kunlun Grand Canyon
Speaking of the Kunlun Mountains Grand Canyon, many people first think of the national 4A-level tourist attraction located in the First Pasture of Kunyu City, 14th Division of Xinjiang Production and Construction Corps. After all, the majestic Kunlun Mountains stretch for thousands of kilometers, with numerous gorges crisscrossing. The Xinjiang Kunlun Mountains Grand Canyon, as the urban back garden and summer resort of Hotan, Xinjiang, is not only the only high-altitude scenic spot on the entire Kunlun Mountain but also integrates natural beauty, mythological history, military reclamation culture, and ethnic customs.
In contrast, the Kunlun Grand Canyon in Golmud, though hidden in the Qaidam Basin, little-known and sparsely visited, maintains its original ecological state, ancient and mysterious, with changing views at every step. Especially when visiting in summer, it is incredibly cool and refreshing, an excellent place to escape the heat.
The Kunlun Mountains Grand Canyon is located about 70 kilometers south of Golmud, with its entrance about 15 kilometers from the main route of the Qinghai-Tibet Highway. It is part of the Kunlun Mountains World Geopark. The canyon is about 12 kilometers long, consisting of the 'One Area, Three Gorges': Grand Canyon, Antelope Canyon, and Snow Mountain Canyon. It is said to have been accidentally discovered by geological surveyors, so it is relatively unknown. Not only are there no directional signs, but it is also not marked on maps. We only managed to reach it thanks to the guidance of a local Golmud driver. The canyon is not very large, hidden in the vast Gobi. In the distance, snow-capped peaks tower against the blue sky and white clouds, giving a sense of vastness and desolation between heaven and earth.
The canyon boasts varied scenery and unique landscapes. Whether it's the winding and rugged valley floor path or the jagged cliffs that look as if carved by axes, there is no trace of artificial modification; everything is a masterpiece of nature's uncanny workmanship. As light and shadow change, the scene transforms with every step, beautiful and magnificent, making any casual photo look stunning. It greatly resembles the world-famous photographic site, Antelope Canyon in the United States, and is therefore called the 'Chinese version of Antelope Canyon' by many travelers.
Additionally, from April to August each year, a small river forms on the valley floor, said to be meltwater from glaciers and snow on the Kunlun Mountains. Although shallow, it is exceptionally clear and pure. Coupled with the cool breeze on the valley floor, it instantly dispels the summer heat. Of course, since there are no walking paths on the valley floor, you can only drive through the water in an off-road vehicle with high ground clearance. However, for safety reasons, it's best not to visit the canyon in bad weather.
End: In the Epilogue
Every trip is a self-sublimation. This time, heading west to reach Golmud was no exception. Before arriving, Golmud had long been on my must-visit list, and I had always looked forward to it. Finally, I got this opportunity. However, due to time constraints, my vacation couldn't support the entire idea, so I had to choose the attractions I yearned for the most, to experience the Golmud I had always dreamed of, and to immerse myself in the Golmud I had longed for! Because of this regret, I planted a seed of ideal in my heart. With the nourishment of days to come, I believe I will have another chance to set foot here. At that time, I will see a different Golmud, but for now, I can only say to her, 'Goodbye!'
