60s Ox and Tiger Tibet Tour (Sichuan-Tibet Southern Route In, Qinghai-Tibet Route Out) Part 6: Dangxiong - Namtso - Yanshiping - Golmud

Departure: Beijing;

Date: September 3 ~ September 21, 2023 (19 days);

Traveling as a couple (born in 1961 Ox and 1962 Tiger, both post-60s);

Destination: Everest Base Camp.

Vehicle: Haval H6 2.0T four-wheel drive;

Medication: Gaoyuanan (altitude sickness remedy), glucose, berberine, Ganmao Qingre granules, Yinhuang dropping pills, quick-acting heart-saving pills, oxygen inhaler, etc.;

Documents: ID card, driver's license, vehicle registration, border通行证;

Clothing: All four seasons prepared; bed sheets and thick quilts.

DAY 15, September 17. Today's plan: Dangxiong to Yanshiping, 512 km, estimated driving time 9 hours. Today officially starts the Qinghai-Tibet Route out of Tibet, with altitudes all above 4200 meters. The weather today was not ideal. When we arrived at the scenic area gate, it started drizzling, and our hearts sank. If it rained all day, the scenery of Namtso would be greatly diminished. From the gate to the Namtso transfer point, it takes another hour by car, and from the transfer point, the sightseeing bus to the lakeside also takes about an hour. Just as we were worrying about the weather affecting today's views, a miracle occurred. A beam of sunlight pierced through the clouds and shone on the mountains, turning them into a sheet of golden light—truly golden. The golden sunlight on Namjagbarwa changes from gold to golden yellow, on Everest it is orange, but on Namtso it is gold, a breathtaking scene with a rainbow to boot—truly a miracle.

As we approached Mount Nyainqêntanglha, it began to snow heavily, with a 5 cm accumulation. We worried whether the slippery road would allow us to reach Namtso. The tour bus stopped at the Nyainqêntanglha parking lot, and everyone got out to enjoy the snow view. But we saw an SUV continue ahead, so we followed. Not far along, we started descending the mountain. We arrived at the Visitor Center (transfer point) at 8:10 AM, and the snow had stopped. Six or seven of us took the first sightseeing bus to Namtso. Along the way were grasslands. After about an hour, we reached Stop 1 (there should be four stops around Tashi Peninsula). We got off one by one and headed to the lakeside. The sightseeing bus immediately returned to the transfer point, with no one on board explaining the scenery or how to change buses. The driver was Tibetan, and we could only half-understand his Mandarin. Since the rain had stopped and the sky turned overcast, the lake surface was bluish but unremarkable. I walked to Stop 2, where the lake was a deeper blue, then took the bus to Stop 4. By then the sky had changed from overcast to partly cloudy, and the lake color began to lighten, but it still wasn't the gemstone color I had hoped for—somewhat disappointing. I took the bus back to the transfer point, and then sunlight spread over the lake, turning it sky blue. So, to visit Tibet, you must have clear weather to appreciate the beauty; otherwise, you may be let down. Namtso also has a problem: unlike Yamdrok Lake, which you view from a high vantage point nearby, Namtso's mountain road is quite far from the lake surface, so it doesn't look as beautiful or comfortable as Yamdrok.

Around 10:30 AM, we returned to Dangxiong and took the Beijing-Tibet Expressway to Nagqu. At Nagqu we left the expressway and turned onto National Highway G109. At first, there were few vehicles, and we were pleased: G109 wasn't as bad as rumored—no endless streams of trucks, no constant traffic jams. But around noon, we finally encountered a major traffic jam. Vehicles ahead were lined up motionless. Oh no, we had no idea how long this would last. Taking the opportunity, my wife and I had a simple lunch. By about 1:00 PM, the vehicles started moving. When we got to the front, the police had already cleared an accident. It involved a motorcycle and a large truck that refused to yield to each other at a turn and collided. Safety really comes first—besides delaying the trip, an accident can be life-threatening. The G109 section in Tibet is truly vast and very flat, which exceeded our expectations. No need to cross mountains; it's a flat, open road. After Amdo County, the road surface became uneven due to the impact of large vehicles and thawing permafrost, causing some undulations. We had to control speed. There we encountered the second traffic jam, caused by a convoy transporting wind turbine blades that needed to use the opposite lane when turning—it lasted about 40 minutes. In the evening, we reached Tanggula Pass, where the scenery turned to brown and white tones that are rarely seen elsewhere. At Tanggula Pass there were only a few empty buildings, no attendants, and the restroom was closed. After Tanggula Pass, due to road construction, we hit a third traffic jam, but small cars were let through quickly; it lasted about 20 minutes. By 7:30 PM, we finally arrived at Yanshiping, elevation 4700 meters. Fortunately, the hotel here was well-equipped with heating and oxygen, ensuring we didn't suffer from altitude sickness. The reason we chose to stay in Yanshiping was not only the good accommodation but also its midway location between Dangxiong and Golmud. We had initially worried about staying at such a high altitude for the first time, but it turned out to be the right decision. If we had chosen to stay in Tanggula Town, despite its lower altitude, we would have had to drive a long night route, which is unsafe.

DAY 16, September 18. Today's itinerary: Yanshiping to Golmud; total 508 km, estimated driving time 9 hours. We set out at 7:00 AM as usual, while it was still dark. As we drove, we reached Tuotuo River and stopped to watch the beautiful sunrise. The splendid morning glow of the plateau reflected on the water, looking like an oil painting. After enjoying the glow, we continued along G109. At 8:30 AM, we encountered a major traffic jam. It was said that several large trucks had refused to yield at Tanggula Town, causing a jam of nearly 15 hours. My wife walked ahead to inquire and met a family that had been stuck since 9:00 PM the previous night. We secretly congratulated ourselves on the correct decision to stay in Yanshiping. To get through as soon as possible, we drove off the road into the ditch to advance. Around 10:00 AM, under police direction, the large trucks began to yield to each other and traffic moved slowly. We took this chance to get back onto G109, having been stuck for nearly two hours. To speed up our journey on G109, we didn't stop at Tanggula Town or visit the Yangtze River Source Monument. Around 3:00 PM, we arrived at the Chumar River Bridge. The Chumar River is also one of the sources of the Yangtze River, flowing calmly without any grandeur. After crossing the river, the sky gradually clouded over. Suddenly, out of the corner of my eye, I spotted three Tibetan antelopes—a delightful surprise. Since mid-September is not the migration season, it's hard to see Tibetan antelopes on the grassland. Afraid of disturbing them, we didn't get out of the car but took a few photos with our phones. About a kilometer further, we saw a few more antelopes. A car ahead stopped, and people got out to take photos, startling the antelopes, which ran away. By the time we reached Kunlun Pass, it was 4:00 PM. Since it was overcast, we didn't stop. The Kunlun Mountains, as described in literature as 'towering Kunlun' and 'boundless Kunlun,' in the Qinghai section were not as majestic as I had imagined—somewhat disappointing. After Kunlun Pass, the scenery turned to yellowish-brown, quite different from the colors of the Hoh Xil Nature Reserve. With a slight breeze, dry riverbeds kicked up dust, giving a desert-like feel. We drove all the way to Golmud, arriving after 7:00 PM. We tasted the local yak meat, which was tender and delicious.