Late Autumn in Anhui (Final Chapter)
After finishing our three-day tour of Wuyuan, we had already been traveling for 16 days and were preparing to return. On the way back, we had to take the Southern Anhui Sichuan-Tibet Highway, known as the 'Jiangnan Sky Road.'
Starting from Wuyuan, we drove to Fangtang Township in Anhui (about 4 hours). The Southern Anhui Sichuan-Tibet Highway begins at Qinglong Township in Ningguo City in the east and ends at Caicun Town in Jing County in the west. The most scenic section is about 120 kilometers long. This route passes through the largest reservoir in the southeast—Gangkouwan Reservoir—and the largest primitive forest in southern Anhui (Banqiao Nature Reserve). It combines the beauty of Guilin's landscapes in Guangxi, the wonder of Yunnan's stone forests, and the peril of the 318 Sichuan-Tibet Highway, uniquely capturing the essence of southern Anhui's mountains and waters. Winding and thrilling, with stunning scenery, it links green mountains, bamboo seas, reservoirs, and dawn redwood forests into a beautiful ribbon of road art adorning the Southern Anhui Sichuan-Tibet Highway. It is one of the most enchanting self-driving routes in the Jiangnan region.
We focused on visiting the Fangtang Bald Cypress Wetland Park (also called the Redwood Forest). Upon arriving in Fangtang Township, we first found accommodation nearby (prices were generally high; we stayed only one night), just a ten-minute walk from the scenic area. After dropping off our luggage, we hurried to the observation deck to watch the sunset over the redwood trees. This season is when the redwoods are at their most beautiful. Viewing the redwood forest is free, but boat rides are charged.
Fangtang Bald Cypress Wetland Park: Located in the heart of Qinglong Bay Reservoir, along a shallow bay, thousands of acres of dawn redwoods grow densely and neatly in the water, contrasting with the vast, emerald-green surface—a breathtaking sight. As the weather turns colder, the redwoods gradually shift through shades of light red, deep red, golden red, and orange-yellow, presenting a warm palette to welcome the chill of winter.
The boat captain said we came a bit late, and many leaves had fallen. The scattered leaves drifted together on the water, dyeing the surface red, complementing the somewhat bare trunks. Even the fallen leaves looked beautiful.
In the redwood forest, pairs of grebes (pì tī) drifted on the water. They are skilled fish catchers: aiming at a fish, they dive headfirst—1, 2, 3—and accurately clamp the fish tightly with their beaks. This time, one caught a fish too big to swallow. Not daring to open its beak for fear of losing the fish, it anxiously swam in circles with the big white fish in its mouth.
The reflection of the redwoods on the clear, light green water presented a beautiful scene right before our eyes.
Early the next morning, it started to rain. Soon the rain stopped, but it remained overcast. We took a boat ride through the redwood forest, feeling quite relaxed. After lingering a bit more in the redwood forest area, we set off at 10 a.m. to continue along the Southern Anhui Sichuan-Tibet Highway. The scenery along the way was also lovely.
One of the viewpoints: the Stone Forest Scenic Area in Banqiao Village. Due to heavy fog, we couldn't see it clearly and stopped only briefly.
Taoling Highway: This section of the Southern Anhui Sichuan-Tibet Highway is a winding mountain road from Suhong Township in Jing County, through Taoling, to Banqiao Township in Ningguo. It is known as 'Little Tibet.' Opposite Taoling lie two large mountains named 'Huanglian Ridge' and 'Niaoque Ridge.' Following the twisting mountain road, rounding several ridges and crossing several peaks, you can enjoy views of the winding highway coiling like a giant python around the green mountain ranges. The ascent is about 10 kilometers, the descent about 10 kilometers, with an elevation drop from 700 meters to about 100 meters—a feeling of passing through clouds and mist. The terrain is steep, the scenery captivating. The ruggedness and beauty of Taoling Highway are unforgettable.
When you drink water, remember the one who dug the well. The people of Taoling erected a roadside monument to commemorate their benefactor, clearly recording the story of Secretary Wang Leping and the Taoling Highway.
At the top of the mountain, there is a small viewing platform for tourists to stop and rest, where you can see the winding mountain road you just traversed. Villagers sometimes set up tea stalls and sell local specialties. In short, you must drive on this road with extreme caution.
Getting out of the car, we saw a vast misty scene—nothing was visible. A young man selling stinky tofu said, 'Don't worry, the fog will clear soon and then come back again.' Truly, the fog came and went, perfectly revealing the beauty of the six bends of Taoling Highway in glimpses.
Slowly, the fog rose among the towering mountains, drifting everywhere through the hills. Roads and cars appeared and disappeared in the mist.
After touring the Southern Anhui Sichuan-Tibet Highway, our trip came to an end. Every journey brings different gains. This time, we intimately touched the beauty of late autumn in Anhui—a beauty that transforms simplicity into richness and turns black-and-white into a colorful ink-wash painting of Huizhou. One land nurtures its own dwellings, fully reflecting the profound heritage of Huizhou culture and its weighty history. Crossing countless nameless hills, we discovered villages full of peace and tranquility. Hidden deep in the mountains, the ancient towns and villages with eternal mystery, history, and stories were picturesque. 'All my life I have been obsessed with beautiful places; never in my dreams did I expect to come to Anhui.' The best camera in the world is one's own eyes—even without superb photography skills, having seen these beautiful sights is worthwhile.
Moreover, I must say: Thank you to my travel companions. A perfect itinerary requires wise people to complete it. The eight of us were like the modern Eight Immortals, each playing to our strengths. Before departure, we consulted the almanac to choose an auspicious day. The sun shone brightly all the way! Everything went smoothly! We were happy all along! Even the heavens seemed to favor us. The occasional rain came only at appropriate times. This journey brought us together by 'fate' to travel side by side, recording the beautiful moments and sharing each other's joy—truly perfect.
