Jixi, a Place of Tranquility.
Originally planned to see the rapeseed flowers during the Qingming holiday, but worried about the crowds, I chose to travel on the weekend of April 17th and 18th. To enjoy ancient villages and towns, fewer visitors are needed for the desired atmosphere.
There are many ancient villages and towns in Jixi, suitable for self-driving. Too lazy to drive, I chose the Longchuan Scenic Area in Jixi. Took the high-speed rail to Jixi North, then bus No. 6 for about 30 minutes directly to the scenic area entrance. Pre-booked a room in the ancient town; the boss brought me in without needing a ticket. The entrance is unattended in the early morning and evening, allowing free entry and exit.
Outside the scenic area entrance, one side is a main road, next to the Dengyuan River, flowing slowly. There is a bench bridge over the river, and on the other side of the bridge is a village. Looking into the distance, classic Huizhou scenery unfolds. Walking onto the bench bridge, I blended into the scene.
Entering the ancient town, the first thing that catches the eye is a memorial archway. A small stream runs through the middle of the town, with residents living on both sides. Most shops in the town run small businesses. Peaceful and leisurely. (A vendor by the archway said this is the ancestral hometown of former Chinese President Hu Jintao, who visited here after retirement.)
The booked inn was an old house, with wooden stairs, wooden partition boards for rooms, and old-fashioned wooden windows, giving a quaint feel but affecting soundproofing. Around five in the morning the next day, I heard mooing sounds. Got up to see what it was—turns out an old yellow cow was "practicing vocals" under the back window. Ha, a taste of rustic village life, but sleeping in was out of the question.
Came downstairs a bit late and missed the sunrise. The inn offered a simple breakfast, just average. The ancient town is not big, with the east-west ancient street spanning only two to three hundred meters, but the scenery makes you linger. Under the morning light, a few scattered tourists were already taking photos. Diligent residents were heading out with farm tools, and an elderly woman was washing by the stream, while dried bamboo shoots were laid out to dry along the stream. Not crowded, not noisy. This is the feeling one wants from an ancient town.
Strolling slowly and taking photos, the pavilions and towers by the stream quietly awaited distant travelers in the morning light. An arch bridge spanning the stream—Shangguang Bridge—stood against the majestic Longxu Mountain. A team of about a dozen people crossed the arch bridge to hike Longxu Mountain.
Since it was still early, I wandered leisurely through the alleys of the ancient town. Deeper inside, some old houses were undeveloped and uninhabited, desolate and decaying, as if from another era. The shops on both sides of the stream and the houses behind them were already outside the scenic area. When I returned to the inn after nine o'clock and approached the stream, a staff member with a red armband was guarding the alley entrance, asking me to buy a ticket. I mentioned the inn where I was staying, and he let me pass.
Packed my luggage and left the scenic area. I had read a guide before that said there was a mountain trail on the roadside slope leading up to a viewing platform with a panoramic view of the Dengyuan River. Found the entrance and climbed up. Near the viewing spot, the steps became very steep. Sweating, I reached the platform—the view was nice, but a large rock blocked a wider perspective. Descended shakily, then went to another trailhead mentioned in a guide: "Tianran Mountain Villa." The steps up to the villa were neatly maintained by the owner, with lush trees and blooming flowers on both sides.
The villa had a viewing corridor. I brewed a cup of tea and rested a bit, gazing into the distance. The spring scenery was vibrant and full of life. The owners, an elderly couple, introduced the crops on the mountain: peach trees, bayberry trees, pear trees, vegetables, and free-range chickens raised in the woods. Took a look at the villa's rooms—the facilities were more complete than the inn in the ancient town, and it should be quieter. The owner let me look around freely. I climbed a short way along the well-maintained steps and saw a pavilion with a sign reading "Best Viewing Spot." From here, overlooking the Longchuan scenery was pleasing to the eye, with an unobstructed view.
Asked the owner for a business card, thinking I could bring my family to stay on the mountain for two days in the future. Picking bayberries, peaches, tasting honey pears, watching winter snow—quiet and leisurely, like a paradise, suitable year-round. The owner said there are also inns in the ancient town, so one can enter the ancient town for free.
I missed the rapeseed flowers, but the spring scenery of Longchuan did not disappoint me. Spring, summer, autumn, winter—I look forward to the four seasons of Jixi.
