Encounter the Beauty of Anhui: Entering Xuancheng, the Hometown of China's Four Treasures of the Study

Xuancheng, a city I know intimately yet find strange. Intimate because I've lived here for two decades, watching it grow; strange because, though I've traveled far and wide, the only impressions of its sights come from school field trips in autumn. It's said that people often overlook the scenery around them, and that's certainly true. So this time, taking advantage of the beautiful autumn weather, I decided to explore this poetic city like a tourist.

Xuancheng is a little-known small city in southern Anhui, yet it boasts remarkable history, culture, and material heritage, making it a treasure trove. Historically known as Wanling, it has been a prefectural seat for millennia, dating back to the Western Han Dynasty when Danyang Commandery was established here. Over the centuries, it served as a commandery, prefecture, and circuit seat. Xuancheng boasts a brilliant culture where the Four Treasures of the Study, Hui culture, poetry culture, folk culture, culinary culture, religious culture, and clan culture coexist and flourish. It has long been known as "the land of poets since ancient times" and "the foremost place for humanities in the upper Yangtze region." Xuancheng also possesses numerous tangible heritages, such as the world-renowned Xuan paper from Xuanzhou, along with Xuan writing brushes and Huizhou ink sticks—all national intangible cultural heritages. Thus, Xuancheng is honored as the "Hometown of China's Four Treasures of the Study."

DAY 1: Jingting Mountain – Taste local specialties like Xuanzhou farmhouse crispy rice and stir-fried yellow beef – Yijian Cottage Guesthouse

DAY 2: China Crocodile Lake

When Jingting Mountain is mentioned, many people are unfamiliar with it, but I think everyone knows this poem by Li Bai: "Flocks of birds fly high and vanish; A single cloud, alone, drifts idly. We never tire of looking at each other— Only Jingting Mountain." Among the many mountains Li Bai visited and praised in his lifetime, the only one he never tired of looking at was Jingting. That's why he climbed it seven times.

Jingting Mountain is not high; as a branch of the Huangshan range, its highest peak is only about 300 meters. After Xie Tiao and Li Bai, countless literati visited this modest hill, leaving behind innumerable poems. Hence, Jingting is known as the "Poetry Mountain of Jiangnan." It is not just about natural scenery; it also holds profound cultural significance.

Driving to the Jingting Mountain Scenic Area, I saw the familiar memorial archway from my childhood memories. However, I didn't realize back then that the East Gate archway encapsulates the entire culture of Jingting. It is one of the two largest stone archways in Anhui Province. Above the archway, besides the calligraphy for "Jingting Mountain" in the center, the sides are inscribed with poems about Jingting Mountain by 20 great poets, including Xie Tiao, Li Bai, Bai Juyi, Han Yu, and Du Mu. This echoes the saying, "With Xie Tiao's poem of Xuancheng, the mountain's fame rivals the Five Sacred Peaks."

An autumn outing to Jingting Mountain is so pleasant. Sunlight filters through the leaves, warming the ground and people. Driving uphill along the mountain road, I passed a large tea plantation. This tea field grows the locally renowned Jingting Green Snow tea. The terraced rows of tea bushes are quite a sight. Looking up offered a different visual treat: fiery red persimmons hung heavily on branches, while nearby chestnut trees rustled in the autumn breeze.

Arriving at the parking lot, I entered the core area of Jingting Mountain, where I had to hike. "Long trapped in a cage, I return to nature." Strolling along the autumn-filled mountain path, winding upward and deeper, I soon immersed myself in nature. The pleasant sound from the Wind Chime Corridor, the crunch of fallen leaves underfoot—all let me feel the spiritual cleansing brought by this Poetry Mountain of Jiangnan.

Along the 380-meter landscape poetry path, I walked slowly, savoring its unique charm. Climbing the steps, I passed the Guzhaoting Tea Museum and the Guzhaoting Memorial Archway, which narrated the past of this place—how much rain they had heard, how many years they had witnessed.

Now, Jingting Mountain is a perfect autumn destination. Wandering along the winding bamboo paths, I felt the tranquility and serenity of the bamboo grove. Everywhere was a scene; occasionally looking up, I discovered different views—a TV tower standing atop the distant peak of Jingting.

"Sitting Alone in Face of Jingting Mountain" is a late work by the Poet Immortal Li Bai. The line "We never tire of looking at each other—Only Jingting Mountain" has another interpretation among the folk: some say Li Bai was expressing his longing for Princess Yuzhen. In the bamboo grove of Jingting Mountain, two attractions remain: the tomb of Princess Yuzhen and the Lovesick Spring. Princess Yuzhen greatly admired the brilliant Li Bai, and Li Bai was quite enamored with her. So when he saw her tomb, Li Bai felt deeply lonely and melancholy.

Arriving at the Taibai Duzuo Pavilion (Great White Sitting Alone Pavilion), located on the southern slope of Jingting Mountain, one can have a panoramic view of Xuancheng's urban area. This antique wooden pavilion was built to commemorate Li Bai. A highlight of the exhibition hall is the use of 3D animation technology to set up multimedia interpretations of Li Bai, such as "Li Bai's Poems and Xuancheng," "Li Bai Through the Millennia," and "Encountering Jingting," allowing visitors to appreciate the rich cultural heritage of the Poetry Mountain of Jiangnan.

Strolling through the Taibai Duzuo Pavilion, I could also experience various cultural elements, such as Huizhou woodcarving. Exquisite woodcarvings are displayed inside, through which one can learn about Li Bai's life experiences and his story with the city of Xuancheng, feeling the history and culture of Xuancheng.

At Jingting Mountain, don't miss the highest point—the Summit of Jingting. From there, you can overlook beautiful rural landscapes. The Shuiyang River winds like a green ribbon inlaid in the endless land. Under the vast sky, patches of white clouds and flocks of birds suddenly rise and fly into the distance. The deep autumn mountain is exceptionally quiet, and the scenery from the summit is infinitely beautiful.

In Xuancheng, located in the hilly region of southern Anhui, the local cuisine has its own unique flavors, embodying the characteristics of Huizhou cuisine with its distinct tastes. To taste the most authentic flavors of Xuancheng, don't miss the Huiwan Restaurant. Stepping into the restaurant, the antique decoration is truly distinctive. Square stools, long benches, old-fashioned thermos bottles, and enamel mugs—it feels like traveling back 30 years to a rural banquet.

At Huiwan Restaurant, ordering and the kitchen also showcase Xuancheng's characteristics. The open-kitchen ordering method displays dishes on a counter; for any dish you want, you pick a bamboo slip with the dish name from a nearby container. The kitchen is right behind the counter, where cooks prepare food in plain view, ensuring better hygiene.

Xuanzhou Farmhouse Crispy Rice is truly a dish that represents Xuancheng cuisine, as I've eaten it since childhood. The crispy rice, baked in a farmhouse earthen stove, retains the hemispherical shape of the large pot. The freshly stir-fried shredded green and red peppers with pork is the topping. Pour the topping over the crispy rice; the rice absorbs the rich sauce, giving a savory flavor. The more you chew, the more fragrant it becomes.

Stir-fried Yellow Beef: At first, the name sounds similar to the famous Hunan dish, but the preparation is quite different. Xuancheng's stir-fried yellow beef uses beef from Jixi County, known for its high quality. The beef is stir-fried over high heat for 18 seconds with coriander on the bottom, farmhouse rapeseed oil, and small red chili peppers. The result is spicy and flavorful, with a strong wok aroma. Xuancheng has many other must-try dishes, such as Jing County Braised Noodles, Shuiyang Three Treasures, and Eight Big Bowls of Jingting.

From white-walled, black-tiled houses to bamboo forest cottages, from manor spring scenery to wooden windows and lattice doors, Xuancheng's unique and inclusive culture nurtures a group of beautiful, distinctive guesthouses that captivate more and more people. In this beautiful season, why not join me on this autumn train into the guesthouse I stayed at—Yijian Cottage (One Thatched Cottage) Ancient Charm Garden.

Yijian Cottage Ancient Charm Garden is located in Ma Village, Hanting Town, Xuanzhou District, Xuancheng City, just a half-hour drive from downtown. Nestled in a forest, with green trees surrounding the house and lotus flowers in the pond, it's a tranquil, scenic "Zen" garden far from the hustle and bustle.

Stepping into the guesthouse, I finally understood why it's called Ancient Charm Garden. Throughout the large compound, many historically evocative items are scattered—antique arches, slightly mottled stone lions, lifelike stone carvings—all bearing traces of time.

The entire garden not only showcases ancient charm but also stunning autumn colors. Many ancient trees show signs of autumn, but the most impressive is the ginkgo tree called the Wishing Tree. Its thick branches and dense leaves saw golden ginkgo leaves drift down with the autumn breeze, presenting a captivating autumn beauty. Under the Wishing Tree, I tied a red ribbon on a branch and made a wish from my heart.

Strolling through Yijian Cottage, I passed bamboo groves, winding streams, small bridges, flower-lined paths, and rustic gates—every step offered a new view. The large garden has only a few guest rooms by the lake, ensuring the best stay for guests. Each room is unique: bubble rooms, wooden cabins, tents—the most popular accommodation styles are gathered here.

We stayed in the Chinese courtyard luxury king room, a cottage built of solid wood and blue bricks. Inside, the Chinese-style decoration felt very comfortable. Many of the furnishings were thoughtfully designed—ancient chests used as bedside tables, lantern-shaped main lights, and calligraphy works hanging on the walls.

In the leisurely afternoon, I sat on the tatami by the window, drinking tea and enjoying the view, slowly savoring time. At night, I fell asleep under the stars; in the morning, I woke to sunshine and birdsong. Here, I could calm down, talk to myself, and let go, with clouds rolling and stars whispering.

As a native of Xuancheng, I've always overlooked the scenery around me. Crocodile Lake, one of the few attractions I've visited, had faded from memory over the decades. As the only nature reserve for Chinese alligators in the world, Crocodile Lake is a must-visit in Xuancheng. Entering the area, I saw great changes: dense bamboo forests and a serene environment at the entrance, making me admire the quality of the alligators' habitat.

"Fish leap as sea wind rises; crocodiles croak as river rain comes." Here, of course, I wanted to learn more about our national treasure, the Chinese alligator. The Chinese alligator is a relict species from ancient times, known as a "living fossil." It is a nationally protected first-class animal and a rare species unique to China. Like other crocodiles, they float on the water like pieces of driftwood.

Following the signs inside Crocodile Lake, I first went to the Adult Alligator Viewing Area, where over 5,000 Chinese alligators aged 5 and above live. In various pools, many alligators basked—probably the most alligators I've ever seen in my life. The scene was truly震撼.

Listening to the staff, when it gets colder, these cold-blooded animals will hibernate. Even the alligators are captivated by this beautiful autumn. Here, I could see the alligators up close, their chilling teeth gleaming. Many might think they are fierce, but smaller ones are slow-moving and gentle, rarely attacking humans. Still, one should be cautious while observing.

The entire Crocodile Lake area is vast and under continuous development. Walking deeper into the viewing area, the environment became more pristine, where the alligators adapted to near-wild conditions. Seeing alligators in such an environment felt like exploring a secret realm.

The Chinese Alligator Museum is a thematic exhibition hall integrating ecological protection, scientific research, and science education. In the square in front, there is a plant-trimmed figure of a Chinese alligator, looking cute and somewhat adorable. Inside, the museum uses pictures, texts, videos, and simulation experiences with new technologies like transparent touchscreens and virtual imaging to reveal the alligator's mysteries.

The exhibition hall consists of two sections, A and B. Hall A introduces the alligator's background, divided into three parts: evolutionary path, historical changes, and cultural significance. Exhibits take us through the evolutionary history of crocodiles, uncover the life trajectory and cultural heritage of the Chinese alligator from ancient times to today, and explore its close connection with the Chinese dragon.

Hall B is about the alligator's characteristics, displaying its morphological features, living environment, and habits. Here, I learned that the Chinese alligator is also a "great architect," building "magical underground mazes," revealing a lesser-known side.

No matter how far I go, I won't forget the way home. Wherever I travel, there's always a place that haunts my sleep and leaves me without appetite. The moon is brighter in my hometown. This time, revisiting my hometown as a tourist, hearing familiar dialects, I felt an unconscious pride rising from the bottom of my heart. Though a small city, it has incomparable beauty. This is Xuancheng, the Hometown of China's Four Treasures of the Study. Here is Jingting Mountain, the Poetry Mountain of Jiangnan; here is the world's only Chinese alligator nature reserve; here are the fiery red mangrove forests along the Sichuan-Tibet Highway and the tranquil, ancient Chaji Village. Embracing both culture and nature, colorful Xuancheng welcomes you!