Spring in Southern Anhui, March 2023 (Photography and Hiking around Huangshan)

I. Itinerary

Beijing—Jixi County (Longchuan, Huihang Ancient Trail, Renli)—She County (Shitan Village, Shendu Town/Xin'an River, Qiandao Lake, Huizhou Ancient City)

II. Travel Dates

Time: March 26, 2023 - April 1, 2023, 7 days total

III. Pre-trip Preparation

1. On March 18, purchased tickets for G321 from Beijing South to Jixi North on March 26, total 1,139 yuan.

2. On March 20, purchased tickets for G2566 from Huangshan North to Beijing South on April 1, total 1,209 yuan.

3. On March 22, booked a stay at Fanghua Hotel in She County for the night of March 31 via Ctrip, 331 yuan.

IV. Trip Journal

D1: March 26, Longchuan, cloudy to clear

Keywords: Beijing to Jixi County, Longchuan Scenic Area

At 8:47, G321 departed on time from Beijing South Station.

Arrived at Jixi North Station at 14:46. Turn left out of the station and walk about 200 meters to the bus station. Took bus No. 6, which departed at 15:10 and got off at Tianran Farm, one stop before Longchuan, at 15:35. Walked up the path opposite the bus stop to the hill, overlooking the Dengyuan River and the white-walled, gray-tiled Huizhou villages on both banks, with rapeseed flowers dotting the landscape everywhere. Spring in Southern Anhui is incredibly beautiful. The weather cooperated, turning from cloudy to clear—great for photos. After descending the hill, walked along the Dengyuan River toward the scenic area.

At 17:00, there were large fields of rapeseed flowers before entering the scenic area. Walked near the bench bridge, did not enter the scenic area, but went down to the riverbank and followed the river. This led to Water Street and into Longchuan Scenic Area. Both sides of Water Street were lined with small shops. Hu's Ancestral Hall was already closed. Near Yishi Shangshu Archway, there were two guesthouses, but we did not stop and continued deeper into the alleyways. Reached Laohu Inn, in front of which was a small pond, and across from it was Hu Zongxian's Former Residence (not open to the public). The surrounding environment was pleasant. Decided to stay here, 100 yuan per room. Dropped off our luggage, wandered around nearby, and had dinner at the inn. Arranged with the innkeeper a chartered car for the next day to Huihang Ancient Trail, fee 60 yuan. As dusk fell, the chill set in.

1. Longchuan Scenic Area is a national 5A-level tourist attraction, located in Longchuan Village, Jixi County, Southern Anhui. It is a thousand-year-old ancient village where the Hu clan lives together. The scenic area combines cultural and natural landscapes. Hu's Ancestral Hall, known as the finest ancestral hall south of the Yangtze River, is praised as a 'Museum of Woodcarving Art' and a 'Hall of Ethnic Art.' The Yishi Shangshu Archway is a genuine Ming Dynasty stone-carved archway, the pinnacle of Huizhou stone carving. Be sure to visit the viewing platform on the small hill outside the scenic area for a panoramic view of Longchuan.

2. In March 2023, many attractions in Jixi were free of charge.

D2: March 27, Jixi, cloudy to clear

Keywords: Jixi County, Longchuan Scenic Area, Huihang Ancient Trail, Renli Village

8:00, departed on time.

8:20, arrived at the ticket office of Huihang Ancient Trail, free admission. The innkeeper was very helpful, taking our luggage to Jixi town, and we agreed to contact him after arranging accommodation. Started the hike light, passing Jiangnan First Pass and Fozhang Peak, arriving at Shicha Pavilion at 9:30. Continued up a short section, then began descending at 9:40 from Xiaoyao Valley, completing a small loop—the most scenic part of Huihang Ancient Trail. Perhaps another time we will hike the full trail.

10:30, returned to the ticket office. Since we needed to take a bus, we had to walk to the parking lot by the highway (private cars can drive to the ticket office parking lot). We continued walking and reached the parking lot by the road around 11:00. After inquiring, we learned that Bus 601 departed at 11:30. While waiting, we looked around and chatted with the staff. The bus left on time.

12:00, arrived at the Renli Village intersection. It took about 15 minutes to walk into the village. There were many old ancestral halls and old houses in the village, but they were scattered, requiring slow, careful exploration. At 12:30, we saw the sign for Hongxia Farm Stay, went in, and found it was also a century-old house. Ordered local specialties: ta guo (pressed cake) and tripe soup. After lunch, continued touring the village. At 13:42, took Bus 6 from the Renli bus stop and left. Got off near GreenTree Inn in Jixi town, checked in—165 yuan including breakfast—and rested. Contacted the Laohu Innkeeper to have our luggage delivered to the hotel.

16:00, walked to the area around Jixi Museum. Passed the Three Carvings Museum and Xishan Historical and Cultural District, but both were closed on Mondays.

17:10, arrived at the food street. Compared two restaurants: China Huicai (Huicuisine) Museum and Juheyuan. Finally chose Juheyuan for dinner, feeling that an old established brand was more reliable. Ordered stinky mandarin fish, hairy tofu, yan du xian (salted pork with bamboo shoots), and local Xuanjiu liquor. Worthy of its reputation—authentic.

1. Huihang Ancient Trail starts at Fuling Town, Jixi County, Anhui Province, and ends at Maoxiang Township, Lin'an City, Zhejiang Province. The best-preserved section is the winding stone steps in Jixi County, which is the beginning and the essence of the trail. After the entrance, you first pass by the Xiaoyao River Hydropower Station. The path climbs upward along stone steps, with steep cliffs on the left and precipices on the right, below which a rushing stream flows in the valley.

2. Renli Ancient Village is on the way from Jixi County to Longchuan Scenic Area, 3 km from the county town and 5 km from Longchuan. It is a must-pass for visitors to Longchuan. It is a typical ancient village, preserving a large number of Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasty buildings. A several-li-long village protection wall winds like a snake. The village has a history of nearly 1,500 years since its founding. Most villagers are descendants of the Neo-Confucian masters Cheng Yi and Cheng Hao, making it truly 'Cheng-Zhu Que Li' in ancient Huizhou.

3. The location of GreenTree Inn is excellent, making it a good choice for tourists staying in Jixi.

D3: March 28, Shitan Village, She County, cloudy

Keywords: Jixi County—She County—Shitan Village—Xiatian Village—Hushan Village—Beishan Village—Xiatian Village

8:20, after breakfast at the hotel, checked out and took a taxi (10 yuan) to the bus station near Jixi North Station. Boarded the 8:55 Jixi—Huangshan Tunxi long-distance bus (passing through She County) for 12 yuan (last bus in the morning, three in the morning and three in the afternoon). Got off across the road from She County Bus Station at 10:00, entered the station, and fortunately caught the 10:10 bus to Shitan Village (one in the morning and one in the afternoon), quickly boarded, 12 yuan per person. Otherwise, we would have had to take the bus to Xiakeng Town and then take a taxi or walk from there.

11:20, arrived at Shitan Village. It was rapeseed flower season, so there were quite a few tourists. Had a bowl of small wontons (locally called 'baofu jiao') at a roadside shop, then wandered around Shitan Old Street and found the trail for hiking up the mountain. Did not take the scenic shuttle bus (15 yuan per person).

12:30, started hiking uphill, reaching Xiatian Village in 45 minutes. The view here was expansive, with layered mountains, rapeseed flowers spreading across the hills, and white-walled, gray-tiled Huizhou villages dotting the scenery—a magnificent landscape. Stayed at Yunwu Shanzhuang (Mist Mountain Villa), 150 yuan per person, including dinner that evening and breakfast the next day. Rested a bit.

13:50, set off again. Route: Xiatian Village—Xiatian Viewing Platform—Hushan Village—Beishan Village. Enjoyed the scenery and took photos along the way, arriving at Beishan Village at 15:15. Actually, the best scenery was still near Xiatian Village. Then returned the same way. Spent some time at the Xiatian viewing platform, returning to the villa at 16:40. Asked the owner about the possibility of a sea of clouds the next morning. The answer was that since it hadn't rained for several days and the wind picked up at night, it was unlikely. Still unwilling to give up, I set the alarm for 5:30. Dinner at the guesthouse: four dishes and a soup, with both meat and vegetables.

1. Shitan Village is located in Xiakeng Town, She County, 35 km from She County. Every spring, various flowers—rapeseed, peach, pear, and wild flowers—cover the mountains. In the morning and evening, mist and clouds shroud the area, blending with the faintly visible ancient, elegant villages, creating a beautiful Chinese ink-wash painting. The main hiking route is: Shitan—Xiatian—Hushan—Beishan—Shitan, taking about 4-5 hours. Well-preserved Huizhou-style buildings can be seen everywhere in the village. On the hills and fields, colorful wildflowers bloom. Shitan Village is also the gathering place and birthplace of the Wu clan. Those interested in history and culture can learn about clan history in ancient buildings such as Chunhui Hall and Xulun Hall.

2. Accommodation and food conditions in Shitan Village at the foot of the mountain are relatively good, but going up the mountain requires taking the local scenic shuttle bus, which is inconvenient. The best place for viewing and photography is Xiatian Village, where there are also many farm stays to choose from.

D4: March 29, Shendu Town, She County, cloudy to light rain

Keywords: She County, Xiatian Village—Changxi Village—Shendu Town

5:30, the alarm rang on time. Opened the curtain; outside was gloomy. No sea of clouds. Lay back down to continue sleeping, but many tourists were already out taking photos, making noise, so I had to get up. Morning felt slightly cool. Went to the viewing platform and saw many tourists coming up from Shitan Village below on the shuttle bus. Took a few photos, returned to the guesthouse, and packed.

7:30, breakfast.

8:15, started descending. Followed the path we took uphill the day before. Approached a fork near Shitan Village, turned left, went down to the road, and walked left. Soon saw a large bridge (not the ancient bridge). Crossed the bridge, then kept walking along the Changyuan River. After about 5 km, saw another large bridge—Changxi Village had arrived. The scenery along the way was nice; near the bridge, rapeseed flowers covered the hillsides. Crossed the bridge, continued along the Changyuan River to the big camphor tree, turned right into the village. In the village, there were ancient buildings such as Taihu Ancestral Hall, Yuangong Branch Ancestral Hall, Wooden Archway, Sanyan Well, and Zhonglie Temple. After the visit, returned to the big camphor tree, continued walking along the river. Ahead, an ancient wooden bridge connected the east and west banks—one side with historical relics, the other with natural scenery. Continued forward, reached another bridge, crossed it to exit the village onto County Road 004. Continued walking, arriving at the Changxi Scenic Area parking lot at 11:40. Had lunch at Wanyuan Renjia by the roadside.

12:40, took the returning minibus to She County, 4 yuan per person. Got off at Dingtan at 12:58, then walked about 3 km and reached Shendu Bridge at 13:40. Walked through the old street and found a farm stay near Shendu Port on Huangshan Avenue for 100 yuan per room. If driving, you could choose better accommodations; the inns near Shendu Port are all ordinary farm stays.

15:00, asked the innkeeper to book tickets for the Qiandao Lake cruise the next day. Our accommodation was about 200 meters from the port. First went to the dock to check the situation, then wandered around the town. Had dinner at another farm stay with some customers. Returned to the inn to rest. That day we hiked about 15 km. Perhaps because Shendu Town is close to She County, most tourists choose to stay in She County; aside from the dock, other places had few tourists.

1. Changxi Village is a historical, cultural, and ecological ancient village in She County, ancient Huizhou, known as 'No. 1 Village in Southern She'. Major attractions include Taihu Ancestral Hall, Yuangong Branch Ancestral Hall, Wooden Archway, Sanyan Well, Zhonglie Temple, Thousand-Year-Old Dragon and Phoenix Camphor Trees, and Yangkeng Ancient Wooden Bridge. In particular, the 75-meter 'Yangkeng Ancient Wooden Bridge' across the Changyuan River connects the east and west banks, with historical relics on one side and natural landscapes on the other.

2. The Changyuan River originates from Laozhuling in She County, flows through Zhiheyuan to Laozhubu, where the Laozhuyuan River joins from the south. At Guanqiao, the Daxiyuan (also called Baishiyuan) River joins from the north. At Sanyangkeng, the Baichuan River joins from Wangcun in the south. At Wangjiazhuang, the Yingkeng River from Yingkeng in the south joins. At Qili, the Xiaoxi River from Hutianshan in the north joins. Entering Tangli to Xishanxia, the Zhouba River joins. Near Huachang, it merges with Huayuan River, flows through Changxi to Dingtan, where the Guo River joins. At Shendu, it empties into the Xin'an River.

3. The one-day round-trip cruise from Shendu Port to Qiandao Lake departs at 8:00 am and returns to Shendu Port around 17:30. In March, Qiandao Lake is free of charge; the boat ticket is 98 yuan per person (including lunch).

D5: March 30, Shendu Town, She County, light rain to cloudy

Keywords: Shendu Town, Qiandao Lake one-day cruise

7:00, had breakfast nearby.

7:50, arrived at Shendu Port, boarded the boat. Departed at 8:15. Upgraded seats for an additional 100 yuan per person; second floor had only four private cabins. Few people requested upgrades that day; our cabin had four people. The Xin'an River was shrouded in morning mist, with Huizhou villages dotting the green mountains and clear waters, appearing and disappearing—like a flowing landscape painting while boating on the river. At 10:30, lunch; ordered Xin'an River fish head tofu soup separately, so we didn't have to join the group meal.

11:20, arrived at Meifeng Island in Qiandao Lake. The guide said the tour time for this island was 50 minutes. You could take the cable car at your own expense, but for a normal adult, it takes only 15-20 minutes to reach the summit. Meifeng Island is located on the Zhuangyuan Peninsula at the western end of the central lake area of Qiandao Lake Scenic Area. It is a good spot for climbing high and enjoying the view among the many islands of Qiandao Lake. From the Meifeng viewing platform, small islands float on the lake like matcha cakes—a landmark view, known as 'Meifeng Lan Sheng'. However, there were many tourists. The photos also showed crowds. The second island we visited was Moonlight Island. Started the return journey at 14:10. Arrived back at Shendu Port at 17:40. Went back to the inn to rest.

18:30, had a bowl of zhujiang noodles (noodles with toppings) at a small restaurant near the bridge. Took a walk along the street, then returned to rest.

Tip: This itinerary included Qiandao Lake purely because of the free admission. A quick glance—just a super-large reservoir, not as beautiful as the scenery along the Xin'an River in Anhui.

D6: March 31, She County, cloudy to clear

Keywords: Wufu Farm, Xin'an River hiking

Route: Shendu Town—Huizhou Ancient City—Nanyuankou Village—Pukou Village—Yuliang Dam—Huizhou Ancient City

7:00, breakfast.

7:30, set off. Walked to the viewing platform near Wufushan Farm, the best spot for photographing the big bend of the Xin'an River. It was 1.6 km from our accommodation to Wufushan Farm; navigate to Wufushan Farm. There was a paved path up to the viewing platform on the hill. Climbing up and looking into the distance, the big bend of the Xin'an River came into full view. Took photos, descended the hill, returned to the inn at 8:50, and checked out.

9:30, took the minibus from Shendu Town to She County, 10 yuan per person. Got off near She County, then took a few stops by bus to Huizhou Ancient City. Checked into Fanghua Hotel at 10:30 and rested a bit. Had lunch at Laohuzhao Snack Shop next to the hotel. Then took a taxi to Nanyuankou Village, 30 yuan, which was also the starting point for today's hike.

12:30, started hiking along the Xin'an River / Lian River, passing through villages such as Xiaomeikou, Pukou, Chechuan, Baochuan, and Lincun. After Lincun, entered Yuliang Old Street. Walked past Ziyang Bridge and Xin'an Pass, and Yuliang Dam appeared before us. The dam lies across the Lian River, connecting Yuliang Old Street at the north end and Longjing Mountain at the south end, 143 meters long. The scenery near Yuliang Dam was beautiful; staying at a guesthouse along the river would be very pleasant.

17:00, exited Yuliang Old Street and returned to Fanghua Hotel.

18:20, today's hike was about 20 km, a bit tiring. Had dinner at the Anruo Restaurant in the courtyard.

1. Pukou Village is surrounded by water on three sides—east, south, and west—where the Lian River and Jian River converge and flow into the Xin'an River, forming a unique 'three-river confluence' landscape. After Pukou Village, follow the Lian River all the way to Yuliang Dam.

2. The courtyard where Fanghua Hotel is located was originally the county party committee compound of She County. After the committee moved out, the original buildings were converted into a hotel and restaurant. The exterior basically retains its original appearance, while the interior is renovated into hotel rooms. The rooms are relatively large; it's best to book in advance. The auditorium was the filming location for the movie 'Fanghua' (Youth), and has become a popular photo spot.

D7: April 1, Huizhou Ancient City, cloudy to clear

Keywords: Huizhou Ancient City, return to Beijing

8:00, breakfast.

8:30, today was relatively relaxed. Huizhou Ancient City is not large; we visited Xu Guo Stone Archway, Doushan Street, Tao Xingzhi Memorial Hall, etc. Bought some local specialties. Returned to the hotel at 11:00, packed, and checked out. Had lunch at Laohuzhao Snack Shop next door.

12:20, took a taxi to Huangshan North Station, 40 minutes, 46 yuan.

14:36, G2566, Huangshan North to Beijing South, departed on time.

20:55, arrived at Beijing South Station on time. The trip ended smoothly.

V. Expense Breakdown

Train tickets: 2,348; Short-distance transport: 247; Meals: 1,847; Accommodation: 946; Cruise: 396; Others: 20

Total: 5,804 yuan / 2 people

April 28, 2023, in Beijing