Wandering Jingzhou, Savoring Three Kingdoms Culture and Seeking the Legacy of the Chu Capital
Jingzhou, anciently known as 'Jiangling', has a city-building history of over 2,600 years. Among its brilliant historical culture, the periods of the Chu State and the Three Kingdoms stand out the most. From 689 BC, when King Wen of Chu established its capital in Ying, Jingzhou served as the capital for 20 Chu kings, lasting 411 years. During the Three Kingdoms period, Jingzhou was always a fiercely contested strategic region. Thus, it is the birthplace of Chu culture and the center of Three Kingdoms culture. Today, Jingzhou keeps pace with the times, and the lives of its people are modern and comfortable. For a first-time visitor to Jingzhou, how much charm does this ancient land hold? Follow me to find out!
Weishui Dam, Asia's First Dam
When it comes to China's water conservancy projects, many think of the Three Gorges Dam. This world-class project, with a dam length of 2,309 meters, generated over 100 billion kilowatt-hours of electricity in 2018, setting a new world record for annual power generation by a single power station. However, in Jingzhou City, Hubei Province, there is a dam with a total length of 9,868 meters, more than four times the length of the Three Gorges Dam. This is the Weishui Dam in Songzi.
Today, when you visit the Weishui Dam, you can see a stone tablet erected by the dam's side, inscribed with the words 'Asia's First Dam.' Judging the scale of a dam is not simply based on its length but on a comprehensive evaluation. For instance, the Three Gorges Dam, which is much shorter than the Weishui Dam, is the world's largest water conservancy project. So, since the Three Gorges Dam is the world's largest hydroelectric project and both are in Asia, why is the Weishui Dam called the 'first dam under heaven'?
In fact, although both are dams, 'dam' is a broad category with many subcategories. They are generally divided into concrete dams and earth-rock dams. The Three Gorges Dam is a concrete dam, which can be further divided into gravity dams, arch dams, and buttress dams. The Weishui Dam, on the other hand, is an earth-rock dam, which can be subdivided into earth dams, rockfill dams, and earth-rock mixed dams. The Weishui Dam is Asia's first manually constructed earth dam.
Don't be fooled by its unassuming appearance today, lacking modern facilities. Back then, it was a massive project. Construction began in 1958, an era when machinery was not advanced. This nearly ten-thousand-meter-long dam was built inch by inch by manual labor. Especially during the river closure, 500 strong young men each carried a stone roller, pitting their flesh and blood against the surging river. Many even paid with their lives. To this day, the Weishui closure monument and closure point can still be seen by the dam, commemorating these brave souls.
After 22 years of construction, the Weishui Dam was finally completed. The once troublesome 'river demon' Weishui became a 'river god' blessing the surrounding areas, bringing benefits to many people. Moreover, the completion of the dam led to the creation of the Weishui Scenic Area, a 4A-level scenic spot comparable to Qiandao Lake. The dam itself has also become a local 'internet-famous check-in spot.' Taking photos here feels like being in Taiwan. Many nearby residents come to the dam top after meals to enjoy the breeze and take a walk, making it a great place for leisure and entertainment.
Although it's still relatively niche as a tourist attraction, and few people even know about it, it's worth a visit when you travel to Weishui. With few crowds and beautiful scenery, it might be a wonderful experience.
Weishui Auto Campground, China's First Five-Star Auto Campground
With the gradual development of self-driving tourism, a new type of campground has emerged: the auto campground. Unlike other campgrounds, auto campgrounds are primarily built for drivers, mainly to provide vehicle supplies for self-driving tourists. However, as times have evolved, auto campgrounds have far surpassed this original function. They are often located in areas with natural scenery, offering not only vehicle supplies but also rentals of log cabins, villas, and even sports facilities or entertainment activities for rest. Their scale and functionality have gradually expanded. In Songzi City, Jingzhou, Hubei, the country's first five-star auto campground was born: the Weishui Auto Campground.
What amazed me most about the Weishui Auto Campground was its water activities. Unlike those elsewhere, the water activities here are not just boat rides or speedboat tours; they combine sports and experience. For example, jet skiing is one of them. Besides coach performances, you can also ride yourself or be accompanied by a coach. Jet skiing is not difficult, but I recommend driving it yourself. Although not hard, mastering high skills requires practice. Just when you think you're 'flying like the wind,' the coach will tell you that the safety lock is still on, and you're only on the 'entertainment' setting. Above that are 'normal' and 'sports' settings. It seems you need more practice.
But the most thrilling activity at the Weishui Auto Campground is not jet skiing but the water jetpack. Many are familiar with this flying device invented by a Canadian engineer. Wherever it appears, it always draws the most attention. The jetpack uses a hose to suck up water and then ejects it from two nozzles to fly. It is said to fly at speeds of up to 22 miles per hour at a height of 30 meters—very cool.
However, 'seeing is believing.' Although I had watched it countless times, this was my first time riding the water jetpack. Since it's hard to keep balance on the board, and without special training, you can't go alone, so the coach had to hold me. With the weight of two people, the jetpack couldn't perform stunts, but experiencing this 'internet-famous device' was still exhilarating.
If you find both activities too 'wild' and want something relaxed, the campground has many other options, such as water sofas or water rockets, both pulled by jet skis. But they are not as easy as they look. The acceleration and deceleration create a centrifugal force that makes you sway, and you need to hold the handrails. They are similar yet different, but both are fun and can easily become addictive. Moreover, there are many other water activities waiting for you to discover.
The reason the Weishui Auto Campground can be rated as a five-star campground is not only its rich water activities but also its accommodation environment. It offers many highly personalized lodging options. The wild luxury tent we stayed in is one of them. The tent-style design gives a 'wild' feel, while the retro-luxury interior fully embodies the 'luxury' aspect.
Especially the tent ceiling—when we opened the door to our room at night, the sight was simply stunning. But don't worry that a tent might leak wind or rain or lack a bathroom. Those are not concerns at all. The room is symmetrical, with one room on each side, suitable for families or friends. The bedding and amenities are also good, providing a very comfortable experience for a peaceful night's sleep.
The hotel is large. The next day, we visited other room types: riverside standalone villas called 'Water Cloud Residence,' internet-famous star-gazing rooms named after constellations, log cabins suitable for families, and more—seven room types in total. Each has its own characteristics, making you want to stay in all of them. Whatever your preference, you can find it here. Additionally, the campground has activity and entertainment areas, including a jungle adventure park, a children's playground, a splash pool, and a picking garden, allowing you to fully enjoy the tranquility of returning to nature.
Currently, the Weishui Auto Campground is not just for auto camping; you don't have to self-drive to visit. It also serves as a leisure resort. So, when you tire of city life, why not pick a weekend to stay here for two days, enjoy the water to your heart's content, and experience a different kind of joyful, relaxing, and romantic adventure.
Intangible Cultural Heritage Inheritance: Jingchu Intangible Cultural Heritage Skills Inheritance Institute
When it comes to kites, most people are familiar with them. This traditional craft originated in the Spring and Autumn Period of the Eastern Zhou Dynasty and has evolved and been passed down to the present day, with a history of over 2,000 years. People know that kites fly by relying on wind power, so spring and autumn are the best seasons for flying kites. But what if I told you there are kites that can fly without relying on wind? Wouldn't that be amazing? When it comes to seashells, most people are also familiar. These calcified secretions from group animals used for self-protection are suitable as decorations. But what if I said they can also be used to create paintings? Wouldn't that be amazing as well? All these wondrous things come together at one place: the Jingchu Intangible Cultural Heritage Skills Inheritance Institute in Jingzhou City, Hubei Province.
The Inheritance Institute is located at No. 1, East Beijing Road, Shashi District, a bit far from the city center, best reached by self-driving. Interestingly, it is not just a museum but also a secondary vocational school. It was jointly built by Jingzhou Entrepreneurship School and the Municipal Intangible Heritage Inheritance Center as the country's first intangible heritage technician college—'Hubei Folk Craft Technician College.' So, when you walk into the Inheritance Institute and see so many exquisite exhibits, none of them are genuine antiques; they are all works by the masters and students of the Institute.
The entire Inheritance Institute is large. Each inheritance craft has its own relatively independent space. There are twelve traditional craft workshops, including the country's largest lacquer art center, dedicated to displaying and preserving Chu-style lacquerware techniques. If you are interested in traditional culture, don't believe many travel guides that say it only takes an hour to tour. You should set aside at least half a day to appreciate some of its mysteries.
The previously mentioned 'windless kite' is also here. Its formal name is the 'grinding eagle kite.' Many people don't know much about kites and think they are just toys. In fact, it is also a skill with many levels. The highest level is flying the 'pan eagle' kite, and the grinding eagle kite is the ancestor of the modern pan eagle kite. What makes it different from other kites is the craftsmanship. Ordinary kites are mainly made with a 'three-point line' method, so they can only be flown in windy, open spaces. The grinding eagle kite uses a 'single line.' The operator only needs to guide the single line to fly the kite without relying on wind—truly magical.
The grinding eagle kite has now received provincial-level intangible cultural heritage certification. Moreover, the teacher who is the inheritor has improved upon the traditional grinding eagle kite, creating a detachable version. The huge wings of the kite take up too much space and are inconvenient to carry. The detachable kite greatly increases convenience for travel. With this kite, the master has achieved remarkable results at the Weifang International Kite Festival.
The previously mentioned shell painting is another intangible heritage project in Jingzhou: 'Jingzhou Freshwater Shell Carving Technique.' Unlike other shell paintings, Jingzhou's shell carving is not simply carving on shells but cutting and bonding shells to form a complete artwork. If you don't look closely, you can barely see the gaps and traces between the shells—very exquisite.
Moreover, shell carvings are not colored. That means all colors and patterns seen on the artwork are the natural colors of the shells. Therefore, when designing a shell carving pattern, one must consider material differences and the final effect, including different shapes, sizes, and colors, as well as combinations of materials. It is indeed a technical craft.
Another intangible heritage related to painting is gourd pyrography. This is not done with carving or a paintbrush but by 'burning.' Even pyrography on a flat surface is difficult, let alone on a curved surface. So, those learning gourd pyrography must first practice on a flat surface before working on gourds. However, this pyrography is more open; you can choose your own patterns, even burning anime characters or other favorite figures.
Moreover, many other intangible heritages can be seen here, such as guqin performances by teachers and students, full of Chinese style. The entire music room is specially designed. When the strings are plucked, the sound lingers, very melodious. Other intangible heritage projects are equally wonderful, but I won't go into detail here.
It's worth mentioning that since it is called the 'Jingchu Intangible Cultural Heritage Skills Inheritance Institute,' its purpose is not only to protect and display intangible heritage but also to pass on these skills. Once the masters pass away, many traditional crafts face the risk of being lost. In the Institute, many students of various ages learn from the masters, and they will become the successors of intangible cultural heritage. Even visitors can participate in hands-on activities, experiencing and feeling the intangible cultural heritage up close. So, if you have time during your trip to Jingzhou, it's worth visiting. The unique charm of traditional culture will surely make you feel it was a worthwhile journey.
Jingzhou Xiaomeisha Ocean Museum, a Great Place for Family Trips
For people living in non-coastal areas, seeing marine life is more rare than seeing terrestrial animals. The establishment of ocean worlds breaks this barrier, allowing people to understand marine life more clearly and learn while having fun. In Jingzhou City, Hubei, the largest marine culture theme tourist area in Central China has been built, including the largest indoor ocean museum in Central China: Jingzhou Xiaomeisha Ocean Museum.
Like other ocean museums, Jingzhou Xiaomeisha Ocean Museum has a glass underwater tunnel. It allows you to view marine animals from all angles without missing any spots. Of course, it's also a great internet-famous check-in spot for girls—no matter how you take photos, they look dreamy.
But what shocked me most were the performances in the aquarium. Both the clever and lively sea lions and the high-jumping dolphins left a deep impression. However, if I had to pick one star of the aquarium, I would definitely vote for the little angel beluga whale. The trainer could not only control the beluga to swim and kiss but also make it spray water—this was my first time seeing that.
The aquarium exhibition hall has more than just fish; there are also turtles and even Arctic wolves. A slow stroll takes half a day. Additionally, this place has Central China's only large Caribbean-themed water park, a CineMedia element cinema with a 20x32-meter giant screen, Hubei's only 'Week 8 Town' (a children's entertainment brand popular nationwide), and the most distinctive Lobster Town. Whether you want to see or eat, it's a good choice.
In the North, the Terracotta Warriors of Qin; in the South, the Chariot and Horse Pits of the Chu King
The ancients had the tradition of burial with grave goods, from the cruel human sacrifices of early times to various artifacts, all symbols of the tomb owner's power and status in life. With archaeological excavations, tombs and burial objects of various sizes have been unearthed. The most famous is the Terracotta Army of the Qin Shihuang Mausoleum, not only one of the greatest archaeological discoveries in the world but also hailed by former French Prime Minister Chirac as the 'Eighth Wonder of the World.' However, the Chu State, which was one of the Seven Warring States along with Qin, also had burial objects no less impressive than the Qin Terracotta Army—the Chariot and Horse Pits of the Chu King.
The Chariot and Horse Pits of the Chu King are located in Chuandian Town, Jingzhou District, Jingzhou City, Hubei Province. Development began not long ago; archaeological excavation started in 2006, and it was only opened to the public in 2012. So many people don't even know about it. However, being lesser-known does not diminish its value. When you walk into the chariot and horse pit exhibition hall, you will be equally shocked: there are as many as 40 chariot and horse pits. Although many such pits have been discovered elsewhere, none surpass this site.
Especially the No. 1 chariot and horse pit, which is 132.6 meters long from north to south and 12 meters wide from east to west—the longest chariot pit discovered in the country so far. Archaeological excavation has cleared two-thirds of it, yielding 43 chariots and 164 horses, including 7 chariots with two horses, 33 chariots with four horses, and 3 chariots with six horses. The outlines of horse bones and chariot frames are clearly visible, providing great insight into Chu culture.
Near the chariot pit, you can also see wooden chariot frames, though it's unclear if they were reconstructed from the damaged chariots. Gradually, all the chariots in the pits will likely be displayed before us. The Chariot and Horse Pits of the Chu King scenic area is not just about the pits. Since these are burial objects, the Chu king's tomb must be here as well. Moreover, there are queen's tombs and sacrificial burial pits, which now look like small mounds outside the chariot pit hall. If interested, you can take a look.
Besides viewing historical relics, the scenic area has some entertainment facilities, such as archery. Bows and arrows were common long-range weapons in the age of cold weapons, but they are not as easy as they seem. You can try it yourself.
In the scenic area, you can see a high appraisal of the Chu King's Chariot and Horse Pits: 'Unparalleled, the best under heaven.' This is because it is currently the largest, best-preserved, and most complete high-ranking noble cemetery of Chu, representing the highest level of Chu culture during the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods. It has not only been selected as a 2014 Top Value Cultural (Heritage) Tourism Destination in China but is also considered by many experts to be comparable to the Qin Terracotta Army, giving rise to the saying: 'In the North, the Terracotta Warriors of Qin; in the South, the Chariot and Horse Pits of the Chu King.' Don't miss it if you like historical sites.
Old City with a New Look: Light and Shadow Show on the City Wall
In the age of cold weapons, people built obstructive structures around cities using earth, wood, brick, and stone to resist enemies and cope with war. These were the origins of city walls. Many cities, especially large ones in the past, had complex city wall structures, including parapets, crenellations, gates, and barbicans. Some cities even had moats. City walls also served to control the population.
However, due to limited construction techniques at the time and constant attacks during conquests, many city walls no longer exist. But in Jingzhou City, Hubei Province, a super-large city wall remains. It has a circumference of 11 kilometers and is the only ancient city wall that has been continuously extended through the longest period and across the most dynasties, evolving from an earth wall. This is the Jingzhou Ancient City Wall in Jingzhou District.
Today, when you visit the Jingzhou Ancient City Wall, you'll find that it retains the style of the Ming and Qing dynasties. However, the sections of the wall seem disconnected and do not form a complete loop. This is because only a few sections, such as the East Gate, Small North Gate, and New North Gate, are well-preserved. Nearly half of the ancient city wall has problems of varying degrees. Still, it is the best-preserved city wall among southern cities. Few cities have such well-preserved walls. It's also a great place for a bird's-eye view of Jingzhou.
Interestingly, while trying to maintain the original appearance of the ancient city wall, Jingzhou has also clothed it in the 'garment' of the times—the light and shadow show every night. Old appearance changes to new face; the light show infuses the ancient city with youthful vitality. The entire light show is divided into three chapters: 'Chu Charm,' 'Three Kingdoms,' and 'Lingxiu Jingzhou,' lasting a total of eight minutes. Using light and shadow, it showcases Jingzhou's human history and tourism resources in a short time. Besides enhancing the city wall's lighting, it displays the charm of technology and helps visitors better understand and immerse themselves in Jingzhou.
Although the light show timings differ between summer and winter, it generally takes place every day and is free of charge. Both tourists and locals can enjoy it. If you have time, you can also rent a cruise ship like we did, allowing you to watch the light show up close without jostling with crowds and also see many dazzling waterfalls. It will surely make you feel it was worthwhile.
Jingzhou Fangte, a Magical Oriental Myth
When it comes to theme parks in Hubei, many think of Happy Valley in Wuhan. Built by Shenzhen Overseas Chinese Town Group, it is the fifth Happy Valley in the country and the first in Central China. Covering nearly 350,000 square meters, it features Asia's first double-track wooden roller coaster and the largest man-made wave beach in China. It is indeed a rare amusement park in Central China. However, the largest and highest-grade historical theme park in the Wuhan area is not Happy Valley but Jingzhou Fangte Oriental Myth.
Jingzhou Fangte Oriental Myth Theme Park is located at No. 1, Fangte Road, Jinan Eco-Cultural Tourism Zone, Jingzhou City. It covers an area of about 1,009 mu (about 67 hectares), twice the size of Happy Valley in Wuhan. The theme park highlights two aspects: 'Oriental' and 'History.' This sets it apart from other amusement parks. Since amusement parks originated in the Netherlands, most have a European style, giving a 'European fairy tale' feel. However, Jingzhou Fangte stands out with its red lanterns, upturned eaves, and staff dressed in ancient costumes, fully displaying the beauty of the East.
As an amusement park, Jingzhou Fangte has a full range of attractions, from thrilling rides like the suspended roller coaster 'Big Carnival' requiring upside-down and flipping movements, to family-friendly activities like bumper cars. But what truly amazed me were the park's performances. By integrating cool high-tech with Chinese traditional culture, history, and mythology, they create highly immersive shows. The top recommendation is 'Fly with You.'
Many might think this is a family-friendly project from its name, but it's not. It uses naked-eye 3D technology and simulates flight, taking you on a journey across China in 8 minutes. From the Great Wall in Beijing, the Potala Palace in Tibet, the Oriental Pearl Tower in Shanghai, to the Leshan Giant Buddha in my own Sichuan Province—each province has a representative attraction, including some local scenic spots in Jingzhou. It's very impressive. Most importantly, the screen has undergone technological innovation, no longer grainy like before. With special effects, you really feel like you're flying. No wonder you have to buckle up. It's worth noting that the project is divided into multiple levels, so there may be other passengers above and below. Be careful not to drop personal items.
The second recommended performance is 'Qu Yuan.' Speaking of Hubei's most famous celebrities, Qu Yuan is definitely one of them. This politician, who had grand ambitions to lead Chu to prosperity, became China's first named poet due to various circumstances. 'Man proposes, God disposes.' 'Qu Yuan' tells the life story of this romantic poet using a new approach.
During the Warring States period, the various states declared themselves kings. The 'world' was controlled by seven most powerful states, known as the 'Seven Warring States.' Despite the name, they were not equal in power. Besides Qin, which was the strongest, one state that could rival Qin was Chu. So, each state had its own calculations, using alliances and counter-alliances to keep each other in check. Qu Yuan was born in this chaotic era.
Young Qu Yuan was born into the nobility, received a good education, lived among the people, and understood their hardships. He was knowledgeable and had great aspirations—to make Chu prosperous and strong. In 321 BC, Qin forces suddenly invaded Chu. Qu Yuan organized the youth of Lepingli to resist Qin troops, using various tactics to repel them. Gradually, Qu Yuan showed his talent and gained the favor of King Huai of Chu, who appointed him as a high-ranking minister. At that time, Qu Yuan was full of vigor.
After gaining power, Qu Yuan realized that Chu's decline was due to its system. He began reforms, drafting and issuing a series of decrees, vying with the old nobles and entrenched powers. However, the old forces were too strong. After Qu Yuan threatened their power, they launched a counterattack, repeatedly slandering him to the king. In the end, before his reforms were completed, Qu Yuan was dismissed and exiled.
After his dismissal, Qu Yuan withdrew from worldly affairs and immersed himself in landscapes, writing magnificent poems such as 'Li Sao,' 'Questions to Heaven,' and 'Nine Songs.' Many are not only of high literary achievement but also contain philosophical thoughts about life. Thus, Qu Yuan is regarded as China's first named poet, and his works are still sung today.
Sadly, Qu Yuan was patriotic at heart. When he heard that Qin general Bai Qi had captured Yingdu, and King Qingxiang of Chu fled in disorder with the nobles, Chu seemed on the verge of collapse. In extreme distress and utter despair, Qu Yuan drowned himself in the Miluo River on the fifth day of the fifth lunar month. However, his works and spirit have been passed down to this day.
The third recommended performance is 'Chu Music.' Chu music refers to the music popular in the Jingchu region during the Warring States period. After thousands of years of inheritance, it still shines and is regarded as one of the quintessences of Chinese classical art.
Many people think Chu music is not pleasant. This is because the culture and aesthetics of that time were different from today's, and the instruments were less varied. Just as the Tang Dynasty favored plumpness as beauty, while today's standard is slimness. Even if you may not understand, experiencing traditional music from thousands of years ago is a good experience.
Chu music is not just music; it is closely related to Chu shamanism and Chu dance. Many of the music and dances at that time were inseparable from rituals and religion. 'Chu Music' tells the legendary life of a Chu dancer, showcasing many cultural characteristics of the Chu region and recreating the beauty of traditional Chinese culture—very stunning.
Speaking of Chu music, how can we forget the chime bells? Even if you are not familiar with Chu music, you are probably not unfamiliar with this instrument. The final formation of chime bells is spectacular. Dozens of chime bells dance with the light and shadow, making a profound and captivating impression.
Moreover, there are many other performances in Jingzhou Fangte, such as 'Nuwa Mends the Sky,' adapted from a myth, and 'Burning Red Cliffs,' adapted from history. All use sound, light, and electricity to create immersive experiences. Jingzhou Fangte operates on a one-ticket system; you only need to buy the entrance ticket, and all performances are included without additional fees. Each performance is short, about 20 minutes. Pick the ones you're interested in and go enjoy!
There are many more fun places in Jingzhou, such as the Jingzhou Museum, one of the highest-level museums among prefecture-level cities. A brief glimpse naturally can't capture everything about a city. Jingzhou, I look forward to seeing you again next time!
