Traveling Through Hubei by High-Speed Rail, from Wuhan to Wudang (Part 1: Wuhan, Jingzhou)

All photos in this article were taken by the author of 'Black and White Touch'. Copyright reserved. Unauthorized use is strictly prohibited!

Hubei Provincial Museum | Wuhan | Yellow Crane Tower

In the spring of 2019, when cherry blossoms were in full bloom, I visited Wuhan. The cherry blossoms at Moshan Cherry Garden and Wuhan University cascaded like waterfalls and seas, and the shimmering East Lake and the majestic Yellow Crane Tower left me lingering. The night scenery along Chu River Han Street and Optics Valley intoxicated the soul...

That was a memorable trip, yet I felt a slight regret for not having time to see Qingchuan Pavilion and Guiyuan Temple, thinking I would go again next year.

Unexpectedly, at the beginning of 2020, the COVID-19 pandemic broke out in Wuhan and quickly swept across the country. Wuhan was locked down. Not to mention traveling, even leaving the residential community was difficult, so I had to shelve my plans and wait patiently.

Fortunately, through the concerted efforts of the whole nation, the epidemic was effectively controlled. Starting in April, scenic spots gradually reopened. On April 28, Wuhan was fully unblocked. After some time, people from outside Wuhan no longer needed to quarantine, so the trip to Wuhan was back on the agenda.

At the end of October, I reunited with Wuhan. The empty city seen in the news had become a thing of the past. The 'thoroughfare to nine provinces' had regained its former bustle and excitement. To thank people from all over the country, especially medical workers, for their strong support in Wuhan's fight against the epidemic, all scenic spots in Wuhan and even Hubei offered free admission to tourists nationwide until the end of 2020. So visitors flocked to Wuhan, and some popular attractions like Yellow Crane Tower and Happy Valley were even hard to get tickets for.

(During Halloween, Happy Valley was packed every night)

So I made a spontaneous decision: since the opportunity was rare, after Wuhan, I would visit other famous places in Hubei.

Thus began a journey through Hubei by high-speed rail. Starting from Wuhan, passing through Jingzhou, Yichang, Enshi, Shennongjia, and Xiangyang, I drew a 'Z' on the map of Hubei, finally reaching Wudang Mountain in Shiyan. Along the way, I toured the Three Gorges of mountains and rivers, savored the culture of the Three Kingdoms in Jingzhou and Xiangyang, explored karst caves and canyons, admired the nine lakes of Shennongjia, watched the sunrise at Wudang, and took in all the most enchanting scenery Hubei has to offer.

Today's article invites you to join me on the high-speed rail, to roam the land of Jingchu and admire the scenic spots of Central China.

Wuhan is a famous historical and cultural city, the birthplace of Chu culture, and the central city and mega-city of central China. Therefore, whether in terms of human history or modern fashion, Wuhan has landscapes worthy of praise. Cherry blossoms, Yellow Crane Tower, East Lake, Optics Valley and other attractions have been shared in previous articles. This time, we will visit Qingchuan Pavilion, Chutian Tower, and Guiyuan Temple.

Qingchuan Pavilion is located on Yuji Rock at the eastern foot of Guishan in Hanyang, facing the Han River to the north and the Yangtze River to the east, across the river from Yellow Crane Tower on Sheshan in Wuchang. When Tang Dynasty poet Cui Hao ascended Yellow Crane Tower and looked at the vegetation and rivers here, he wrote the famous lines 'Qingchuan calendar Hanyang trees, fragrant grass lush on Parrot Island', which is why Qingchuan Pavilion was built.

Qingchuan Pavilion was first built during the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty, added by Hanyang prefect Fan Zhizhen when he renovated the Yu Ji Palace. It backs onto green mountains and overlooks the Yangtze River, known as 'the first tower of Chu on Qingchuan'.

Thanks to Cui Hao's poem, Qingchuan Pavilion is widely known. In fact, even before Qingchuan Pavilion, this place was a scenic spot with numerous relics. During the Three Kingdoms period, the Iron Gate Pass was built. In the Southern Song Dynasty, the Yu Ji Palace was built. In modern times, the Dayu Myth Garden was built along the river. Together, they present an ancient humanistic picture for visitors.

The Iron Gate Pass, built in the late Eastern Han Dynasty, is more than 1,800 years old. Before the Tang Dynasty, it was a military fortress; after the Tang, it became a trade route. It was destroyed by war at the end of the Ming Dynasty. What we see now is the Iron Gate Pass rebuilt in 1993.

The Yu Ji Palace was first built during the Shaoxing period of the Southern Song Dynasty (1131-1162), originally called Yu Wang Temple. It was a place in Wuhan where generations held sacrifices to Dayu. The current temple was rebuilt in the third year of Tongzhi in the Qing Dynasty (1864).

Everyone has heard the story of Dayu controlling the floods, but he controlled the Yellow River. Why is there a temple to Dayu on the Yangtze River?

Dayu traveled all over the country to observe the terrain and water conditions and study flood control strategies. After thirteen years, he succeeded in controlling the floods. Then he cast nine tripods, divided the land into nine states, developed agriculture, and laid the foundation for China's first slave state - the Xia Dynasty. Dayu's spirit of hard struggle and respect for nature has been passed down through generations. Wherever his footprints went, memorial buildings were mostly built. Dayu culture has become an excellent culture of the Chinese nation, transcending regions.

There are also buildings such as Chaozong Pavilion, Yu Stele Pavilion, and Chubo Pavilion in the scenic area, all built to commemorate Dayu. It is said that after Dayu succeeded in flood control, he carved a stone as a memorial. The inscription consisted of 77 strange and hard-to-recognize characters, meaning that Yu's flood control brought peace and prosperity to the people. During the Qing Dynasty, a Yu stele was erected in the Yu Stele Pavilion.

At the confluence of the Yangtze and Han Rivers, there is Dayu culture. Going east to East Lake Moshan, it is the exhibition ground of Chu culture. Here are ancient-style buildings such as Chu City and Chu Market. The most famous is Chutian Tower, standing on the second highest peak of Moshan, comparable to the three famous towers in Jiangnan.

Chutian Tower is modeled after the ancient Zhanghua Terrace (a detached palace built by King Ling of Chu, grand in scale and known as 'the first terrace under heaven' at the time). On the top of the tower is a copper phoenix, and the wall is inlaid with over 600 pieces of natural marble forming a picture of 'Chutian Fairyland, Phoenix Facing the Sun', a unique feature of Chutian Tower.

From Chutian Tower, you can overlook the entire East Lake scenery.

Inside Chutian Tower, there are reproductions of cultural relics unearthed in the Chu region and statues of famous Chu figures. From left to right in the picture below are Sun Shu'ao, Consort Fan, King Zhuang of Chu, Wu Ju, and Yang Youji. Many idioms (such as 'it may be silent but once it sings it astonishes') come from the stories of these historical figures.

Among all the cultural relics unearthed in Chu, the most famous is the Marquis Yi of Zeng Chime Bells, the treasure of Hubei Provincial Museum, showing that Chu's music and dance were quite advanced in ancient times. At the bottom of Chutian Tower, there are regular performances of chime bell music and dance, allowing you to experience the elegance of ancient Chu.

After learning a little about ancient Chu culture, we headed to a niche attraction in Wuhan - Guiyuan Temple - to learn about the unique Buddhist culture here.

Guiyuan Temple is located on Huangpu Road in Hankou. After entering the gate, several buildings resembling Gothic churches come into view. If I hadn't known in advance that this was a Buddhist temple, I would rather believe it was a Christian church or an Islamic mosque. The European-style round spires and cross-like wind vanes are too easy to mistake.

But this is indeed a Buddhist temple, one of the four major Buddhist jungles in Wuhan, alongside Guiyuan Temple, Baotong Temple, and Lianxi Temple.

Guiyuan Temple was founded in the third year of Guangxu in the Qing Dynasty (1877), originally named Guiyuan Maopeng, meaning 'a heart fond of antiquity, saving all with virtue'. The temple combines the characteristics of Eurasian religious architecture, integrating Mahayana, Theravada, and Tibetan Buddhist sects. Its architectural styles blend Han Buddhism, Indian-Burmese Buddhism, ancient Greek temples, Gothic architecture, and Islamic architecture, which is rare among inland Buddhist temples.

(Indian-Burmese Buddhist style)

(Han Buddhist style)

Guiyuan Temple has the Yuanyuan Baodian Hall, Tianwang Hall, and side halls. Around the buildings are many pomelo trees, bamboo groves, gardens, and an ancient well. A small stream encircles the temple. The environment is beautiful, incense is flourishing. Whether you have faith or not, it is worth a visit.

More than 200 kilometers west of Wuhan, less than two hours by high-speed rail, we arrived at Jingzhou.

Jingzhou is a well-known historical and cultural city. During the Three Kingdoms period, Liu Bei borrowed Jingzhou, and Guan Yu 'carelessly lost Jingzhou'. The then Jingzhou Nanjun is today's Jingzhou. Li Bai's 'Early Departure from Baidi City' goes down the Three Gorges from Chongqing, 'a thousand miles to Jiangling in one day', 'Jiangling' being the name of Jingzhou at that time.

Jingzhou has a history of over 3,000 years, starting from when Yu divided the nine states. The capital of Chu, Jicheng, was built here and was the most prosperous metropolis in the south during the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods. During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, it was as famous as Jiankang (now Nanjing), the capital of Yangzhou, with the saying 'No town in the Jiangzuo region surpasses Jing and Yang'.

(Golden phoenix soaring sculpture on the east square of the ancient city)

In addition, as many as 138 prime ministers came from Jingzhou, the most famous being Sun Shu'ao, known as 'the best official under heaven', and Zhang Juzheng, the chief grand secretary of the Wanli period in the Ming Dynasty. Literary giants like Qu Yuan, Li Bai, and Du Fu also composed poems here, giving this ancient city a legendary and romantic color.

[Jingzhou Ancient City]

Jingzhou Ancient City was first built during the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods. It was once the official boat dock and Zhugong Palace of Chu, later became the seat of Jiangling county, and the earliest city outlines appeared. Most of the existing ancient city walls were built in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties.

Inside the ancient city, there are attractions such as Binyang Tower, Zhang Juzheng's Former Residence, Guandi Temple, Guan Gong Yi Garden, and Jingzhou Museum, where you can learn about Jingzhou's celebrity anecdotes and Three Kingdoms culture.

The ancient city has six gates, each with a tower. Binyang Tower sits on the East Gate, built in the Ming Dynasty, towering and magnificent. Climbing the tower, you have a broad view.

(Climbing the tower and looking into the distance)

There is a moat around the ancient city. At night, the ancient bridges on the river are colorful, the city walls are magnificent, and the lights are brilliant, creating a beautiful scene.

Sometimes, light shows are held on the ancient city walls. The city wall becomes a natural screen, the river serves as a romantic stage, the city tower is a magnificent backdrop, and the lights shooting into the sky are the splendid stage effects.

On the stone platform on one side of the Nine Dragon Bridge stands a towering coiled dragon stone pillar, majestic in momentum, where many people take photos.

In the daytime, the ancient city walls shed the concealment of night and the decoration of lights, revealing their mottled, true face, more rich in ancient charm.

Occasionally, performances are held on the platform under Binyang Tower, which usually serves as a square stage for middle-aged and elderly people at night. On the drum surface on the stage, a phoenix is painted, reflecting ancient Chu culture.

Outside the Jingzhou Ancient City, there are many barbicans, not square, nor semicircular. The gates are not directly opposite each other, probably adapted to the terrain, giving a unique beauty.

In the early morning, elderly people often play musical instruments under the city wall, each showing their skills, making the ancient bricks and tiles lively.

[Three Kingdoms Culture]

The connection between Jingzhou and the Three Kingdoms is not just 'Liu Bei borrows Jingzhou' and 'Guan Yu carelessly loses Jingzhou'. In 'Romance of the Three Kingdoms', out of 120 chapters, more than 70 involve Jingzhou.

In fact, the struggle for Jingzhou among Wei, Shu, and Wu formed the main axis of the Three Kingdoms history. Throughout the Three Kingdoms period, whether the formation of the three-legged situation or the rise and fall of the hegemony of Wei, Shu, and Wu, all were related to the gain and loss of Jingzhou. So walking in the ancient city of Jingzhou, you can see the presence of Three Kingdoms culture everywhere.

On the city walls, there are sculptures of Three Kingdoms heroes:

There are also Three Kingdoms cartoon images popular with children:

Inside the ancient city, there are attractions such as Guandi Temple, Guan Gong Yi Garden, and Guan Yu Shrine. Although Guan Yu carelessly lost Jingzhou, Jingzhou has always commemorated this martial saint of the Three Kingdoms.

Guan Gong Yi Garden is located at the southeast corner of the ancient city. It contains the Guan Sheng Palace, a Three Kingdoms culture exhibition and experience center, including Wusheng Palace, Wealth God Hall, Loyalty and Righteousness Hall, and an ancient stage. Inside, you can worship Guan Gong and watch Guan Gong operas.

The most striking landscape in the garden is the following statue of Guan Gong, designed by famous artist Han Meilin, 58 meters high and weighing over 1,200 tons, the largest bronze sculpture in the world. Unfortunately, it is said that this majestic statue violates regulations and faces possible dismantling.

West of Guan Gong Yi Garden is the South Gate, near which is Guandi Temple, first built in the 29th year of Hongwu in the Ming Dynasty. There is still a ginkgo tree from the Hongwu period inside the temple. According to 'Jingzhou Prefecture Records', this was Guan Yu's mansion when he guarded Jingzhou. The temple has a ceremony gate, main hall, Sanyi Hall, Guanyin Pavilion, and Spring and Autumn Study, solemn and awe-inspiring.

In the main hall of Guandi Temple, there is a statue of Guan Yu reading the Spring and Autumn Annals at night. Above hangs a plaque with the inscription 'Qian Kun Zheng Qi' (Righteousness between Heaven and Earth), granted by Emperor Yongzheng, showing that from ancient times to the present, from emperors to common people, everyone respects Guan Yu.

Not far west of Guandi Temple is Guan Yu Shrine, originally named 'Xiejia Mountain Guan Yu Shrine', first built in the Ming Dynasty, destroyed by Japanese invaders, and later rebuilt on the original site. Many people from home and abroad come here to worship Guan Yu and make wishes, known as 'the number one Guan Yu Shrine under heaven'.

There are several Guan Gong statues in the shrine, riding a horse and wielding a knife, with divine might spreading far.

(Three Sworn Brothers in the Peach Garden)

[Jingzhou Museum]

Jingzhou, with a city-building history of over 3,000 years, naturally has many traces of civilization. Located in the hinterland of the Jianghan Plain, Jingzhou also has a large number of prehistoric remains. These historical artifacts are mostly preserved in Jingzhou Museum.

During the Paleolithic Age (10,000 years ago), the Jigongshan culture was discovered in the Jingzhou area. During the Neolithic Age (10,000 to 4,000 years ago), Jingzhou experienced several major development stages: Daxi culture, Qujialing culture, and Shijiahe culture.

Painted pottery bowl of Daxi culture unearthed in Jingzhou:

Pottery ancestor of Qujialing culture unearthed in Tianmen:

Small pottery animals of Shijiahe culture unearthed in Tianmen:

During the Xia, Shang, and Zhou dynasties, the Jianghan Plain where Jingzhou is located was rich in products and population, a thoroughfare to nine provinces, a place for military strategists to contend. After the Spring and Autumn Warring States period, Chu became the largest vassal state with 'a territory of 5,000 li and a million soldiers', creating a highly developed Chu culture that profoundly influenced the ethnic integration in the Qin and Han periods.

Western Zhou tiger-shaped zun unearthed in Jingzhou:

Warring States small-mouthed tripod with chain unearthed in Jingzhou:

Eastern Han bronze figure pushing a mill unearthed in Zhongxiang:

Western Jin celadon fortified manor unearthed in Jingzhou:

[Zhang Juzheng's Former Residence]

At the end of our Jingzhou tour, we visited Zhang Juzheng's Former Residence.

There is a saying: 'Heaven has nine-headed birds, earth has Hubei people', describing Hubei people as shrewd and combative, with a derogatory meaning. Some say this saying is related to Zhang Juzheng.

Zhang Juzheng, style name Shuda, sobriquet Taiyue, was a native of Jingzhou Prefecture, Huguang in the Ming Dynasty. He showed talent at an early age and was called 'Jingzhou prodigy'. At age 48, he became the chief grand secretary of the Wanli court, a famous politician and reformer in history.

It is said that when Zhang Juzheng rectified the government, he recommended nine censors, all of whom were his Hubei fellow townsmen. They dealt severely with corrupt officials, and the political reform was very effective. Those corrupt officials who were disciplined were dissatisfied and cursed Zhang Juzheng and his colleagues as 'nine-headed birds in the sky, Hubei people on earth'.

Zhang Juzheng set great ambitions as a teenager. At 13, he went to Wuchang for the provincial examination. His answers were highly appreciated by Chen Shu, the surveillance commissioner of Huguang, and even more so by Governor Gu Lin. Gu Lin, considering that Zhang Juzheng was too young and needed polishing, intentionally made him fail. Later, Gu Lin specially brought Zhang Juzheng to the school and asked him to compose a poem on a given theme. Zhang Juzheng improvised a poem titled 'Inscription on Bamboo' (stele inscription below), praising the bamboo's character of enduring frost and dew, being straight and strong, and the spirit of striving forward and soaring to the clouds, expressing his youthful ambition. Three years later, Zhang Juzheng took the provincial examination again and became famous at one go. Gu Lin untied his own rhinoceros horn belt and gave it to Juzheng, encouraging him to aim high and live up to expectations.

In the 26th year of Jiajing, Zhang Juzheng, aged 23, passed the imperial examination as a jinshi of the second degree and was granted the position of shujishi, taking the first step to realize his political ideals.

During the Wanli period, Zhang Juzheng served as chief grand secretary. At that time, the Ming Dynasty was increasingly declining. Facing internal and external difficulties, with extraordinary wisdom and courage, he dared to take responsibility. With a resolute, rigorous, and pragmatic style of reform, he vigorously promoted the 'Kaocheng Law', implemented tax and labor reforms, strengthened border defense management, and reversed the crisis of the Ming Dynasty's decline. This brought about the 'Wanli New Administration', characterized by political clarity and national prosperity. He was later hailed as a 'prime minister who saved the times', the most outstanding political reformer in Chinese feudal society after Shang Yang and Wang Anshi.

Zhang Juzheng's Former Residence was built by later generations based on the prototype of the old house he lived in during his lifetime. It is in the Ming and Qing dynasty courtyard and small garden style, preserving the original historical appearance. The indoor exhibition shows the life and historical achievements of Zhang Juzheng. Behind the main courtyard, there is also a beautiful small garden.

After Jingzhou, let's take a short break. Traveling through Hubei by high-speed rail, we have completed one third of the journey.

Next stop will be Yichang, waiting for us are the landscapes of the Three Gorges people and the magnificence of the Three Gorges Dam. Let's meet in Yichang!