Hainan Self-Drive Tour Part 1: Hubei Chapter

Hainan Self-Drive Tour Part 1 (Hubei Chapter)

Trip Summary: Total distance 2263km

Oct 16 Xi'an → Xiangyang, full-day trip 454.3km. Visited Gulongzhong, stayed at Gulongzhong, Xiangyang.

Oct 17 Xiangyang tour, full-day trip 28.8km. Visited Gulongzhong, Mi Gong Ci, Xiangyang Museum, Xiangyang Ancient City, stayed in downtown Xiangyang.

Oct 18 Xiangyang → Jingzhou, full-day trip 217km. Visited Jingzhou Museum, Guan Yu Temple, Guandi Temple, Zhang Juzheng's Former Residence, Jingzhou Ancient City, stayed in downtown Jingzhou.

Oct 19 Jingzhou → Yongzhou, full-day trip 561km. Visited Liu Zimiao, Lingling Ancient City, stayed in Lingling Ancient City, Yongzhou.

Oct 20 Jingzhou → Wuzhou, total 381km. Visited Yongzhou City Museum, Wuzhou Qilou City, stayed in downtown Wuzhou.

Oct 21 Wuzhou → Leizhou, total 398.4km. Visited Zhongshan Park, Longmu Temple, Wuzhou City Museum, Former Site of British Consulate; Leizhou Maodegong Ancient City, stayed in Leizhou suburbs.

Oct 22 Leizhou → Haihua Island, full-day trip 222.4km. Ferry from Xuwen Port across Qiongzhou Strait, disembarked at Haikou New Port, stayed in Danzhou Haihua Island.

Oct 16 Xi'an → Xiangyang, full-day trip 454.3km, toll fee 273 yuan, parking fee 10 yuan, stayed at Gulongzhong.

Originally planned to take advantage of the National Day holiday free highway to drive to Haihua Island in Hainan, but various matters delayed it. Finally set off today. Total distance over 2000 kilometers, planned to travel 300-500km per day, enjoying sights along the way, aiming to arrive in about a week. First stop set at Xiangyang, Hubei. This is my first time driving such a long distance.

Departed from Shangshuiyuan at 8:16. After more than ten consecutive days of rain, it finally stopped. The sky was overcast but the clouds were high, occasionally revealing rays of sunlight and patches of blue sky.

Entered the highway at 8:35. Along the way, distant dark green mountains were shrouded in drifting mist, occasionally showing a touch of green. Passed by Languan (Han Yu: The clouds veiled the Qinling Mountains; where is my home? Snow blocked the Languan Pass, my horse won't advance), Wangchuan (Wang Wei: Walking to where the water ends, sitting and watching the clouds rise), Manchuan Pass (Manchuan Pass has a long history; it was once the border between Qin and Chu, fortified through successive dynasties; now it is the border between Shaanxi and Hubei), Jiaochang Pass (Yang Bajie cleverly captured the barbarian king or Yang Bajie shot the python spirit), Jiepai Pass (the Jiepai Pass in opera seems not to be here), all places with stories.

Yunxian Service Area in Hubei along the way.

Lunch on the way (trunk table, self-heating rice, with tablecloth).

Exited the highway at 15:10 and arrived at Xiangyang, going directly to Gulongzhong. Xiangyang is a national historical and cultural city, a major birthplace of Chu culture, Han culture, and Three Kingdoms culture, known as 'First City of Huaxia', 'Iron Xiangyang', and 'Place of Military Strategists'. At the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty, Liu Biao succeeded as Governor of Jingzhou and moved the provincial capital from Hanshou, Hunan (his predecessor Wang Rui had moved it to Jiangling [now Jingzhou] for one year) to Xiangyang. Liu Biao's policy of 'loving the people and nurturing the talented' made Jingzhou a peaceful haven during the troubled times, attracting a large influx of population and many renowned scholars and literati. Zhuge Liang's uncle, Zhuge Xuan, brought his family and nephews to Jingzhou at this time. During the Three Kingdoms period, Xiangyang was a fiercely contested city. Stories like 'Ma Yue Tanxi', 'Three Visits to the Thatched Cottage', and 'Flooding the Seven Armies' are all set here. In 1950, Xiangyang merged with Fancheng across the Han River to form Xiangfan City. After sixty years, on December 9, 2010, the name was officially restored to Xiangyang.

Gulongzhong is the place where Zhuge Liang lived in seclusion. Zhuge Liang was a native of Duxian, Langya Commandery, Xuzhou (now Yinan, Shandong). His mother died when he was three, and his father passed away when he was eight. To escape the war in his hometown, Zhuge Liang and his three siblings followed his uncle Zhuge Xuan from Shandong to Xiangyang, Jingzhou, to seek refuge with the Jingzhou governor Liu Biao. After his uncle Zhuge Xuan died, Zhuge Liang took his younger brother and lived in seclusion in Longzhong. During his seclusion, Zhuge Liang read extensively, mastering literature, martial arts, and statecraft; he made extensive contacts with the scholarly community and observed world affairs. After ten years of farming and hard study, he was like a sleeping dragon in the mountains, a submerged dragon in the water. Liu Bei visited the thatched cottage three times, and Zhuge Liang presented the Longzhong Plan, which divided the empire into three and led to many exciting Three Kingdoms stories.

The Wolonggang Wuhou Temple in Nanyang, Henan also claims to be the site of Gulongzhong. Nanyang Wolonggang was built during the Wei and Jin Dynasties, flourished in the Tang and Song Dynasties, and was designated by the Ming court as the place to worship Zhuge Liang. Judging from the inscriptions of famous figures at the two Wuhou Temples, the Gulongzhong in Nanyang seems more authentic; Zhuge Liang's 'Chu Shi Biao' mentions: 'I was originally a commoner, farming in Nanyang', which seems to support this. However, based on the geographical layout, cultivated fields, hexagonal well, and thatched cottage ruins of Gulongzhong, the Gulongzhong in Xiangyang seems more grounded. At the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty, both Xiangyang in Hubei and Nanyang in Henan belonged to Nanyang Commandery. On the map, Xiangyang and Nanyang are adjacent. Liu Bei's base, Xinye, was located between the two. In the Romance of the Three Kingdoms, Liu Bei set out from Xinye to Longzhong for 'Three Visits to the Thatched Cottage'.

The Wolonggang Wuhou Temple in Nanyang, Henan enjoys higher recognition from the literati, while the Gulongzhong in Xiangyang, Hubei is more recognized from a geographical perspective. At the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty, Nanyang and Xiangyang were under the jurisdiction of Wancheng and Deng County in Nanyang Commandery. Wancheng was a place of warlord conflicts. Zhuge Liang came to Longzhong to escape the war in Shandong, so some experts believe that the farmland in Wancheng's Nanyang is unlikely to be his actual farming site.

From a local fame and tourism perspective, both Nanyang in Henan and Xiangyang in Hubei have been competing for the authentic site of Zhuge Liang's farming. There is no definitive conclusion; it is best to visit both places to experience them personally.

Currently, Gulongzhong has free admission (all scenic spots in Hubei are free until the end of this year), but visitors must take the scenic area shuttle bus from the visitor center to enter the scenic area. The visitor center is far from the scenic area, and the shuttle bus costs 20 yuan. Although the ticket is free, the bus fare is still charged. This is a new type of revenue generation. Many domestic scenic spots have built their visitor centers far from the actual sites to legitimately charge for shuttle buses, even though the same distance by public bus would cost at most 2 yuan. Therefore, for those driving themselves, navigate to the visitor center, not the scenic area entrance, otherwise you will have to backtrack. The visitor center has a large parking lot, parking fee 10 yuan.

Upon entering the scenic area, you need to show your health code, scan a QR code to reserve a free scenic spot ticket, and purchase a shuttle bus ticket at the window. Take the shuttle bus into the scenic area, then after sightseeing, take the shuttle bus back to the visitor center.

Gulongzhong Scenic Area includes attractions such as the Stone Archway, Longzhong Academy, Wuhou Temple, Hexagonal Well, Three Visits Hall, Ming Stele Pavilion, Thatched Cottage Pavilion, Zhuge Thatched Cottage Stele, Embrace-Knee Pavilion, Farming Field, Three Heroes Hall, Bronze Drum Platform, and Tenglong Pavilion. The scenic area is beautiful, tranquil, and culturally rich. A thorough visit is expected to take most of a day.

Upon entering the scenic area, the first thing you see is the Stone Archway. The Stone Archway is the iconic landmark of Gulongzhong, built in the 19th year of the Guangxu reign of the Qing Dynasty. On the front center of the archway is engraved 'Gulongzhong'. The couplets on the pillars read: 'Three visits troubled him for the empire's plan, two dynasties opened and sustained with the heart of an old minister' and Zhuge Liang's famous saying 'Lucid in ambition, quiet reaching far.' On the back center is engraved 'The One Man Below Three Dynasties', meaning Zhuge Liang is the foremost talent after the Xia, Shang, and Zhou dynasties. As Ma Yunyun, magistrate of Mian County (now Mian County, Hanzhong, Shaanxi) during the Jiaqing reign of the Qing Dynasty, wrote in a poem: 'Without equal among scholars since the two Han dynasties, the first man after three dynasties.'

In front of the Stone Archway and in front of Three Visits Hall, there are scheduled performances of 'Zhuge Liang Welcoming Guests' and Liu Bei's 'Three Visits to the Thatched Cottage' daily.

Longzhong Academy was founded in the Later Jin period of the Five Dynasties, originally called 'Wulingwang Academy'. At the end of the Yuan Dynasty, the Guangde Temple Academy moved to Longzhong and was renamed 'Longzhong Academy'. Longzhong Academy is now a Hubei Provincial Clean Government Education Base, displaying Zhuge Liang's life and achievements.

The couplet on the stone archway of Longzhong Academy reads: 'Talent requires learning, learning broadens talent; learning requires stillness, stillness cultivates character.' Note that the two characters for 'learn' in the first line are written differently.

In the exhibition room of Longzhong Academy, you can compare Three Kingdoms characters through multimedia. I compared Jiang Wan, the famous prime minister of Shu, while my wife compared Zhen Fu (Cao Pi's wife), the most beautiful woman in Hebei.

Ascending the steps is Wuhou Temple. Xiangyang Wuhou Temple was first built in the Eastern Jin Dynasty. Over a thousand years of history, it was repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt. In the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty, it was moved to this site. The couplet in front of the main hall reads: 'Painted the tripartite, burned Bowang, marched to Qishan, great name immortal; angered Zhou Yu, humiliated Sima, captured Meng Huo, legend spread through ages.' It describes Zhuge Liang's glorious achievements.

Inside Wuhou Temple, the Bronze Drum Platform pavilion houses a bronze drum cast during the Tongzhi reign of the Qing Dynasty. It is said to be a war drum invented by Zhuge Liang during his southern campaign. In 1933, it was restored by Liu Ji, commissioner of the Eighth Administrative Region of Hubei, under the order of Chiang Kai-shek.

Three Visits Hall displays the scene of Liu Bei's three visits to the thatched cottage. There are scheduled live performances in front of the hall every day, and you can take photos riding a bronze horse. Walk into Three Visits Hall to review history; ride the bronze horse toward the future.

Behind Three Visits Hall are the Hexagonal Well and the Thatched Cottage Pavilion. The Hexagonal Well is the only remaining historical original artifact in the scenic area. According to the guide, the hexagonal well is located at the foot of the back mountain. Based on feng shui rules that a well should be in front of a house (meaning promising prospects) and the left side is superior, it is inferred that Zhuge Liang's thatched cottage was located at the current site of the Thatched Cottage Pavilion. It is said that Zhu Jianshu, the sixth-generation descendant of Ming Taizu Zhu Yuanzhang and the third generation Jian King (a vassal king), coveted this auspicious land with mountains behind and rivers in front. He demolished Zhuge Liang's thatched cottage and built his own tomb here. However, the next year, all seven members of his family died. Zhu Jianshu reigned for only one year before his death. It is believed that this was retribution for dismantling Zhuge Liang's thatched cottage. According to feng shui, yin houses (tombs) and yang houses (living dwellings) cannot be interchanged, or it will bring disaster. Zhu Jianshu's tomb was later dug up by Li Zicheng's rebel army. It seems that evil-doers rarely meet a good end.

Since it was close to closing time, there was no time to climb Tenglong Pavilion to overlook the full view of Longzhong. I planned to revisit Gulongzhong the next day. Therefore, I stayed overnight at Fenghuangtai Inn near the scenic area entrance, an 80-yuan farm stay with acceptable conditions and tasty food.

Oct 17 Xiangyang tour, full-day trip 28.8km, parking 14 yuan, stayed in downtown Xiangyang.

Time was a bit tight on the first day, so I revisited Gulongzhong to climb Tenglong Pavilion.

On the way to the visitor center, I visited Guangde Temple, located between the scenic area entrance and the visitor center.

Guangde Temple was built in the 9th year of the Hongzhi reign of the Ming Dynasty (1496 AD). The street in front of the temple is now a small farmer's market. Guangde Temple was built by imperial decree of Emperor Chenghua (Zhu Jianshen). Inside the temple is a stele with an imperial edict explaining the history of the temple's construction. The edict roughly states that the King of Xiangyang buried his concubine Du beside Yunju Temple in Longzhong, 30 li west of Xiangyang city, which suppressed the temple's feng shui. The abbot led the monks out of the temple, and local gentry appealed to the court. Emperor Chenghua issued an edict to maintain the temple, ordering the King of Xiangyang to choose another good site and finance the temple's restoration at his own expense, and gave the temple the name 'Bestowed Guangde Temple'. Considering the King of Xiangyang's actions—dismantling Zhuge Liang's thatched cottage and building a tomb for his concubine—it seems the king was unworthy of his virtue.

The Duobao Pagoda in Guangde Temple was first built in the 9th year of the Hongzhi reign of the Ming Dynasty. Its form is unique: an octagonal base with four small pagodas surrounding a Lamaist pagoda. This 'five-star pagoda' architectural style is unique in China. The Duobao Pagoda is called 'A Unique Wonder Under Heaven, the Treasure Among Pagodas.' Next to the Duobao Pagoda is a thousand-year-old ginkgo tree, known as the Millennium General Tree, lush and thriving. It was once granted the titles 'Great General' by Emperor Shizong of Ming and 'Dharma Protector' by Emperor Kangxi of Qing.

The withered lotus in the pond outside the temple has a unique charm, reminding me of Li Shangyin's poem: 'Autumn clouds linger, frost flies late; I keep the withered lotus to listen to the rain.' However, some discarded beverage bottles in the pond spoil the scenery.

Took the shuttle bus from the visitor center back to Zhuge Liang's former residence. From the Gulongzhong Stone Archway to the Farming Field, the field was lush with green rice.

The Farming Field was the land Zhuge Liang cultivated during his seclusion in Longzhong. In the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty, Zhao Hongn, the Surveillance Commissioner of Yunyang, built a farming pavilion beside the field to commemorate it.

The Thatched Cottage Stele was inscribed by the famous calligrapher Jiang Hui of the Jiajing reign of the Ming Dynasty. The front reads 'Thatched Cottage', and the back reads 'Crouching Dragon Place.'

In front of the Thatched Cottage Stele is the Embrace-Knee Pavilion. It is said that Zhuge Liang often 'embraced his knees and chanted long poems in the morning and evening during his seclusion.' Therefore, Zhao Hongn built the 'Embrace-Knee Pavilion' and erected a stele to record it.

Just in time for the live performance of 'Three Visits to the Thatched Cottage' in front of Three Visits Hall.

Climbed the mountain path behind the thatched cottage, which was quite strenuous. Reached Tenglong Pavilion at the top, a modern building with ten floors above ground and one below. From the top, the entire Xiangyang land was in view. Longzhong Mountain is surrounded by mountains on all sides, hence the name Longzhong (meaning 'in the middle of mountains'). This is also a geographical reason for identifying Xiangyang Gulongzhong as authentic.

Left Gulongzhong at noon and headed to Mi Gong Ci. At lunchtime, enjoyed cake at a small shop by the Han River next to Mi Gong Ci.

Mi Gong Ci is the ancestral temple of Mi Fu, a famous calligrapher of the Song Dynasty. It was first built in the Yuan Dynasty. Mi Fu claimed to be a native of Xiangyang, Chu, and believed he had royal Chu blood. (In the TV drama 'The Legend of Mi Yue', Mi Yue was a princess of Chu. The character 'Mi' is pronounced as 'Mi'.) Mi Fu's mother was the wet nurse of Empress Dowager of Song Yingzong. Mi Fu grew up in the luxurious mansions of royalty. Mi Fu, along with Su Shi, Huang Tingjian, and Cai Xiang, is known as the 'Four Great Calligraphers of the Northern Song Dynasty.' Mi Fu had a relatively smooth life, lived in good conditions, and died at the age of 80 without illness.

Mi Gong Ci is located by the Han River. It includes Bai Hall, Baojin Studio, Yanggao Hall, Qishi Hall, East Garden, Stone Garden, and Stele Corridor, etc. There are many calligraphy and stone carving exhibits, making it a place of interest for calligraphy enthusiasts.

The plaque in Bai Hall reads 'Dian Bu Ke Ji' (unattainable madness), praising Mi Fu's calligraphy as reaching the peak. The couplet reads: 'Clothes follow Tang system, character embodies Jin elegance.'

The Jin Dynasty produced many literati in Chinese history, such as Wang Xizhi, the Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove, and Tao Yuanming. Mi Gong Ci houses exhibits of stone carvings and strange rocks. Strange rocks were beloved by Song nobility and literati. In 'Water Margin', the 'Flower and Rock Transport' was for Emperor Huizong of Song to search for rare rocks worldwide; strange rocks can be said to be one of the inducements for the downfall of the Song Dynasty.

Visited Xiangyang Museum. The museum is located inside Zhaoming Tai, the 'First Scenic Spot of Xiangyang Ancient City'. The museum's exhibits are average.

Zhaoming Tai is a newly built landmark of Xiangyang, built to commemorate Crown Prince Zhaoming of Liang, Xiao Rao. Xiao Rao was the eldest son of Emperor Wu of Liang, Xiao Yan, a famous astronomer who died young before ascending the throne. Zhaoming Tai was first built in the Southern Liang period, destroyed during the Anti-Japanese War, and rebuilt in 1993. From Zhaoming Tai, you can overlook Xiangyang Ancient City. On the way out of Xiangyang, I saw a new Xiangyang Museum under construction.

The late Eastern Han to Three Kingdoms period was the heyday of Xiangyang's history. In 190 AD, Jingzhou Governor Liu Biao moved the Jingzhou capital from Hanshou, Hunan to Xiangyang, making it a political, military, economic, and cultural center controlling a vast area. From then on, Xiangyang became the seat of prefectures, circuits, and counties, gradually forming its urban scale. The ancient city walls of Xiangyang are relatively intact, with several gate towers built in the Ming and Qing dynasties; Han dynasty buildings no longer exist.

Dinner at 'Jianpu Zhai' featured Hubei specialty 'Spare Ribs with Lotus Root', delicious and reasonably priced.

Oct 18 Xiangyang → Jingzhou, full-day trip 217km, toll 83 yuan, parking 5 yuan, stayed in downtown Jingzhou (near the ancient city).

Drove from Xiangyang to Jingzhou, an ancient city full of stories. The Battle of Red Cliffs and the Battle of Yiling in the Three Kingdoms period were both for control of Jingzhou. Guan Yu scraped the poison from his bone in Jingzhou, and Guan Yu's defeat at Maicheng was also due to the loss of Jingzhou. The land of Jingchu is another name for Hubei. Jingzhou is the birthplace of Chu culture; the Chu capital Ying was located at Jinan City north of Jingzhou. 'Liu Bei borrows Jingzhou—never returns' and 'Guan Yu carelessly loses Jingzhou—defeated at Maicheng' are well-known stories and idioms originating from Jingzhou.

First went to Jingzhou Museum. Visiting a local museum first gives a general understanding of the place; visiting afterwards can summarize the preceding sights.

Jingzhou Museum has exhibitions of bronze ware, porcelain, wooden slips and bamboo slips, jade ware, and prehistoric civilization. Among them, the 'Deity Riding a Dragon Jade Pendant' is very distinctive and is the museum's treasure. Unfortunately, the original was out on loan. The dragon relief on the museum steps is based on the dragon from the deity riding a dragon jade pendant, different from the usual dragon image we see, with unique characteristics; it should be a Chu dragon.

Next to the museum is Kaiyuan Guan (Kaiyuan Temple). Kaiyuan Guan is in the same compound as the museum; its main gate is not open, and you enter through the museum. Kaiyuan Guan was first built during the Kaiyuan reign of the Tang Dynasty (713-741). In the 5th year of the Shaoxing reign of the Southern Song Dynasty (1135), it was moved to its current site and rebuilt. The existing buildings were mainly rebuilt during the Ming and Qing dynasties. During the Kaiyuan reign, Emperor Xuanzong of Tang ordered the construction of multiple Kaiyuan Temples across the country, but Kaiyuan Guan only exists here. Kaiyuan Guan comprises the mountain gate, Leishen Hall, Sanqing Hall, and Zushi Hall (Heavenly Gate). The scenery inside Kaiyuan Guan is elegant and peaceful.

From Kaiyuan Guan, went to Guan Yu Temple. Guan Yu Temple is newly built, located beside a city gate of Jingzhou Ancient City. It is said that Zhang Juzheng's son studied here and became the top scholar in the imperial exam. Inside the temple, there are several statues of Guan Yu, a statue of the Oath of the Peach Garden, and a statue of Red Hare Horse.

Many scenic spots in Jingzhou use Guan Yu's fame to attract tourists: Guan Yu Temple, Guandi Temple, Guan Gong Yi Yuan, etc. From Guan Yu Temple, went to Guandi Temple. Guandi Temple was originally the site of Guan Yu's mansion when he guarded Jingzhou. It was first built as Guandi Temple in the 29th year of the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty, rebuilt during the Wanli reign, and maintained during the Shunzhi, Yongzheng, and Qianlong reigns of the Qing Dynasty. The plaque 'Qian Kun Zheng Qi' (Righteous Spirit Between Heaven and Earth) in the main hall was inscribed by Emperor Yongzheng.

A ginkgo tree planted during the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty.

Zhang Juzheng was a native of Xiangyang. Zhang Juzheng's Former Residence was rebuilt on the original site of his mansion. Zhang Juzheng was a famous prime minister of the Ming Dynasty, known as the emperor's teacher. He played an indelible role in the revival of the later Ming period, earning titles like 'Principal Minister and Good Minister' and 'Emperor's Gift of Loyalty.' After his death, political enemies retaliated; the Wanli Emperor seized his property, his family was exiled, and his eldest son was forced to commit suicide. Thus, his residence fell into disrepair. After Zhang Juzheng's rehabilitation, descendants built the Zhang Wenzhong Gong Shrine on the original site. The street at the back gate of the residence is Zhang Juzheng Street, paved with stone slabs, directly facing the east gate tower of Jingzhou Ancient City—Binyang Tower.

'Heaven has nine-headed birds, Earth has cunning Hubei people' is a well-known saying describing the shrewdness of Hubei people. The connection between Hubei people and the nine-headed bird is attributed to Zhang Juzheng. When Zhang Juzheng served as Senior Grand Secretary, he held great power and implemented reforms, offending many nobles. In the fifth year of the Wanli reign, Zhang Juzheng's father died. According to Ming convention, Zhang Juzheng should resign and return to Jingzhou for a three-year mourning period. However, to avoid derailing his reforms, Zhang Juzheng chose 'duoqing'—to set aside filial piety for the state, meaning he did not have to resign. He worked in plain clothes and did not return home for mourning, which violated Confucian rites at the time. The opposition to the reforms seized this opportunity to attack, pushing for his downfall. Nine censors jointly submitted a memorial impeaching Zhang Juzheng. With his superb political skills and the emperor's trust, Zhang Juzheng not only survived but purged those nine censors. After this incident, Zhang Juzheng's prestige grew even higher. From the story of nine censors failing to defeat a Hubei native came the saying 'Heaven has nine-headed birds, Earth has cunning Hubei people.'

Exited Zhang Juzheng's Former Residence and climbed the Jingzhou Ancient City wall from Binyang Tower. The ancient city of Jingzhou is well preserved. Strolling along the wall, the ancient city is connected to the Yangtze River via water gates. From the wall, you can see the somewhat exaggerated giant golden statue of Guan Yu holding a green dragon crescent blade in Guan Gong Yi Yuan. Later, from news reports, I learned that this 57.3-meter-tall bronze statue of Guan Yu was an unauthorized illegal structure, costing 172.9 million yuan, and in four years of operation, total revenue was less than 13 million yuan. This giant Guan Yu statue, after being reported, may face demolition or relocation. Experts are said to be discussing, with relocation being more likely.

City wall bricks inscribed with dates and mason names.

The exaggerated Guan Yu statue in Guan Gong Yi Yuan.

The booked hotel was right next to the ancient city. From the hotel terrace, you could enjoy the night view of the ancient city, the lights on the walls, and the boats on the moat.

Before leaving Jingzhou, visited the Chu Jinan Ancient City site, located north of Jingzhou city.

According to research, this is the site of the Chu capital Ying. Historical records say that from the time Chu moved its capital from Danyang (possibly in Xichuan, Nanyang, Henan, or Zhijiang or Zigui, Hubei) to this location until the Qin general Bai Qi conquered Ying and destroyed Chu, the Chu capital was at Ying for 411 years.

After 411 years as the Chu capital, through the long river of history, almost nothing seems to remain. Aside from a protection stele erected during the Cultural Revolution, the site is just a piece of land covered with wild grass. Archaeological research indicates many Chu tombs here, but they have not been extensively excavated. As a poem from 'Dream of the Red Chamber' says: 'Where are the generals and ministers of ancient times? Their burial mounds are now covered with grass.'

Left Jingzhou, Hubei, heading to Yongzhou, Hunan, a journey of over 500 kilometers.