Step into a Painting, Dream of a Millennium — Jingzhou Ancient City
If you seek a moment of peace amidst an anxiety-ridden life, why not escape from the complex and tedious work? Steal half a day of leisure in Jingzhou Ancient City and enjoy a brief respite like a carefree cloud or wild crane.
Upon arriving at Jingzhou Railway Station, take bus routes 15, 21, or 24 directly to the Jingzhou Ancient City Tourist Center. Taking a taxi is also quick, about 10 minutes.
The tour boat glides leisurely on the clear, emerald river, causing ripples on the water's surface. Willows on the banks sway gently in the breeze, instantly refreshing the spirit after being cooped up at home.
First Stop: East Gate Bingyang Tower
Every city has its unique cultural landmark. For Jingzhou, it is the ancient city wall. From the day it was born, it has stood amidst the storms of history. Now, it has long shed the dust of war and calmly faces the passage of time.
Ascend Bingyang Tower and overlook the charming scenery of the ancient city. The long city wall meanders along the moat. Jingzhou Ancient City Wall, the only one in China that has survived the longest, spanned the most dynasties, and transformed from an earth wall to a brick wall, still stands majestically today.
Few intact city walls remain in China. The most famous is the Xi'an City Wall, followed by Nanjing's. But Jingzhou's is the best-preserved ancient city wall in the south, with a history of over 1,800 years. The wall is 11.28 kilometers in circumference and has nine gates. Originally there were six ancient gates: East Gate (Yingbin Gate), Small East Gate (Gong'an Gate), North Gate (Gongji Gate), Small North Gate (Yuan'an Gate), Old South Gate (Nanji Gate), and West Gate (Anlan Gate). Later, three new gates were added, along with five hidden soldier caves and 26 gun platforms.
Inscribed bricks, with characters carved on them, are scattered across the wall, horse paths, and battlements. They record the long history of Jingzhou's city wall construction through successive dynasties and reflect the changes in the administrative regions under Jingzhou's jurisdiction.
The winding, towering wall contrasts with the high-rise buildings outside, blending ancient and modern. From the old East Gate, walk along the wall to the Zhongxuan Bridge ruins. Every step brings a new view, allowing one to muse on the Three Kingdoms era and appreciate the culture of Chu.
Second Stop: Zhang Juzheng's Former Residence
Stroll along the bluestone paths through ancient streets and alleys to Zhang Juzheng's Former Residence. Strings of red lanterns hang from the eaves, extending into the distance. The Ming and Qing garden-style wooden lattice windows and carved beams are etched with long years. The residence is based on the original quadrangle courtyard where he lived, reflecting the historical style and human environment of his former home. If you have read "Those Ming Dynasty Things," you must enter Zhang Juzheng's Former Residence to learn about the legendary life of this great prime minister of the ages.
As an outstanding chief minister of the late Ming Dynasty, Zhang Juzheng realized the dynasty was in terminal decline. He made a last effort to save it by implementing the Wanli New Reforms, propping up the precarious Ming Empire.
From the Grand Master's Residence to the Taiyue Hall, stroll through the stele corridor. See the bronze statue of Zhang Juzheng standing on the central axis of the garden. Four stele pavilions tell his story. Pass through the Chuzhong Hall into the Pengri Tower, listen to tales of Zhang Juzheng, learn Ming history. In the Emperor's Mirror Illustrations exhibition hall, learn about the emperors. In the Ming Dynasty costume experience hall, dress up in ancient attire to experience Ming culture.
A must-visit for costume enthusiasts: one-stop service for costumes, makeup, hair styling, and photography, including a dragon throne for photos.
A healing treasure trove of creative souvenirs, a place to sell travel mementos. It mainly features practical yet Chu-style creative gifts, such as household items, books, and magazines.
After lunch and a short rest, you can take a sightseeing bus around the city to enjoy the scenery along the ancient wall. The entire bus ride takes about 40 minutes, offering a multi-angle, comprehensive view of the ancient city's history, culture, and customs from inside and outside the city. Enjoy the natural scenery of the moat, touch the millennium-old Jingzhou city wall, and also visit the Guandi Temple.
Third Stop: Guandi Temple
Jingzhou Guandi Temple was first built in the 29th year of Hongwu in the Ming Dynasty (1396), rebuilt during the Wanli period, and repeatedly renovated and expanded in the 7th year of Shunzhi (1650), the 10th year of Yongzheng (1732), and during the Qianlong reign. Today, along with the Guandi Temple in Xiezhou, Shanxi; the Guanling Tomb in Dangyang, Hubei; and the Guanlin Temple in Luoyang, Henan, it is known as one of the four major Guan Yu pilgrimage sites in China.
According to historical records, this site was the former residence of Guan Yu, the great general of Shu Han, who guarded Jingzhou. Guan Yu governed the nine commanderie of Jingxiang here for over ten years.
In the main hall hangs a plaque inscribed by Emperor Yongzheng: "Righteousness of Heaven and Earth." In the center of the hall stands a statue of Guan Yu reading the Spring and Autumn Annals by candlelight. Flanking him are his lieutenant Zhou Cang and his son Guan Ping.
On the walls to the left and right of the main hall are eight murals depicting popular Three Kingdoms stories: "Rushing to Rescue Dangyang," "Releasing Cao Cao with Honor," "Greeting the Bride and Rescuing the Lord," "Guarding Jingzhou," "Attending the Meeting Alone with a Sword," "Flooding the Seven Armies," "Scraping the Bone to Detoxify the Wound," and "Father and Son Loyal Souls."
After visiting Guandi Temple, continue the sightseeing bus tour to enjoy more ancient city scenery, eventually returning to the starting point.
Fourth Stop: Night Cruise on a Gilt-Edged Boat
After dinner, as night falls, on the quiet moat, wooden boats sway and water gurgles. On the East Gate city wall, a fantastic 3D light-and-shadow show unfolds like a scroll. Vivid, colorful paintings in motion blend light, shadow, and music perfectly, showcasing Jingzhou's open and innovative city character and expressing the aspirations of Jingzhou's people for a better life.
Jingzhou, a city that should not be forgotten, carries countless stories and legends. What I have recorded is less than a tenth of its grandeur and ancient charm. Roads must be walked, scenery must be appreciated with the heart. Farewell, millennium-old capital—Jingzhou.