Jingzhou, an Ancient City with Ancient Tales.
Retired, first trip out, chose western Hunan and Hubei, starting from Yichang, with Jingzhou as the first stop.
After landing in Yichang, I rented a car without any stopover and drove directly to Jingzhou, about 80 kilometers, arriving in less than 1.5 hours, all on expressway with good road conditions.
Day 1: Jing Street, Yangtze University Food Street, Night View of Jingzhou City Wall
Day 2: Zhang Juzheng's Former Residence, Jingzhou City Wall, Guandi Temple, Jingzhou Museum, Guan Yu Temple, Dasai Lane
Day 3: After eating Zaotang noodles in the morning, headed to Changde Taohuayuan.
Rain, drizzling, stopped near evening.
Originally, I hoped to visit Guan Gong Righteousness Garden and admire the giant statue of Guan Gong, having lunch on Jing Street.
But for some unknown reason, the giant statue was gone—removed? relocated? Unknown! (Later learned it had been moved)
Both entrances were blocked off, and a large parent-child event with little white rabbits was set up. The drizzle paused but the area was inaccessible, so I could only gaze from afar at the lonely base of the giant statue.
Perhaps it was the lack of the garden's main attraction, or perhaps Jing Street hasn't gained enough recognition, or maybe the relentless drizzle, or perhaps...
The whole of Jing Street looked desolate; at noon, many shops were not open. In the evening, there were still few visitors and diners. The imitation ancient buildings with modern shop decorations actually had some character and blended well, and the night lights were quite splendid—what a pity, what a pity.
Drizzle, on and off all day, stopped near evening; amidst rolling dark clouds, occasional streaks of sunset glow appeared.
On foot, starting from Xueyuan Road, heading to South Moat Road. The river flowed quietly, with dense woods on the opposite bank; looking closely, the city wall was faintly visible.
Zhongxuan Bridge spans the river. The lights of Jing Street and the dark city wall on the opposite bank—one dynamic, one still—complemented each other.
Passing through the Gong'an Gate into the city, at the New East Gate, a memorial archway stands tall; Zhang Juzheng's Former Residence—I'll visit tomorrow during the day to see the splendor of the top Grand Secretary of the Ming Dynasty.
Out of the city, walking along the tranquil path outside the wall, tree-shaped lights were lit, and verses hung among the branches; the opposite bank glittered with lights reflected in the river, occasionally a light boat drifted by—still liveliness accompanying solemnity.
Yinbin Gate—Binyang Tower, the core scenic spot of the ancient city. Projections on the opposite bank displayed on the city wall told tales of the old city; under the colorful lights, Binyang Tower appeared even more towering.
Inside the city, the stone-paved streets recorded the vicissitudes of the old town, while newly built imitation ancient structures showed vitality under the bright lights.
Jingzhou Ancient City has passed through thousands of years of historical flames; now, in the night, it is draped in a gorgeous new garment, shining with the brilliant radiance of a new era.
Tomorrow during the day, I'll ascend the city wall and savor every bit of you.
Jingzhou is vast—one of the nine provinces designated by Yu the Great, enduring for millennia through vicissitudes.
Jingzhou is small—the remaining six gates and two towers no longer match its historical glory.
Jingzhou is ingenious—built following the terrain, winding and meandering, not square.
The lofty gate towers, the mottled city walls, the mysterious soldier-hiding caves, and the water and land docks outside the city—truly a place contested by military strategists!
Jingzhou, an ancient city that has not changed its name for three thousand years, with profound culture and outstanding people, the birthplace of Chu culture, the core of Three Kingdoms culture. King Zhuang of Chu's meteoric rise, Guan Yu's careless loss of Jingzhou, and hundreds of prime ministers shining in the river of history.
Perhaps the most dazzling are Zhang Juzheng, the "pure loyal prime minister who extended the state's fortunes," and Guan Sheng Emperor, the "divine and mighty sage of eternal righteousness."
Strolling along the city wall, wandering in the ancient streets, sighing in the former residence, worshipping in temples and shrines. Stories, past events—they have not faded away but are forever accompanied by the name of Jingzhou.
Entering Gong'an Gate, view Taiyue's former residence, ascend Binyang Tower at Yinbin Gate, gaze into the distance at the new city; walk westward along the city wall, at Gong'an Gate watch dragon boat racing in the river; pass the Soldier-Hiding Cave, Zhongxuan Tower, San Guan Bi, then descend the city wall at Nanji Gate. After visiting Guandi Temple, take a taxi to Jingzhou Museum, then after the visit walk to Guan Yu Temple at New South Gate, then taxi back.
I used to not enjoy visiting museums, especially prefecture-level ones. Before the trip, I specifically looked it up; some reviews said Jingzhou Museum is outstanding among prefecture-level museums, rich in collections, and the best choice to explore Chu culture.
A side trip during the ancient city tour—it was indeed quite震撼!
The museum area is quite large; closed on Mondays, free admission other times! Inside the museum area is also Kaiyuan Temple, although it is closed with no offerings, the ancient architecture remains; a quick glance from afar.
The exhibition hall has five main themes: Scattered Stars, Highlights of Chu Jade, Writings on Bamboo and Wood, Pottery Garden Wonders, and Splendid Bronze, covering stone, pottery, jade, bamboo and wooden slips, porcelain, and bronze ware. From the Paleolithic, Neolithic, Spring and Autumn and Warring States, Qin and Han, all the way to Ming and Qing—a time span of tens of thousands of years.
The Treasure Hall features the Five Grand Masters Sui Han tomb exhibition and the "Dan Lacquer Charm" exhibition of Chu, Qin, and Han lacquerware.
There are various claims about the museum's top treasures, but at least the following are exquisite:
The Western Han mummy (no photos taken);
Tiger-base Phoenix Bird Suspension Drum;
Toad-base Phoenix Bird Feathered Man;
Sword of King Zhou of Yue;
Green Porcelain Lotus Leaf Cover Jar;
Pig-shaped Wine Vessel Box;
Phoenix Bird Treading on Serpent Lotus Cover Vessel.
When visiting Jingzhou Ancient City, you shouldn't limit yourself to Three Kingdoms stories; Jingzhou Museum allows you to deeply understand the brilliant civilization nurtured on this land!
Jingzhou, "land of fish and rice," has fostered a unique food culture, from the street-side hustle and bustle to the famous banquet dishes passed down for millennia. With a hurried journey, I couldn't taste everything.
Yangtze University Food Street!
The area around Xueyuan Road centered on the East Campus of Yangtze University forms a food map.
Jing Street was desolate; I didn't have lunch there, so instead I wandered along Xueyuan Road to look for food. Interestingly, many restaurants and eateries along the road were not open; I found one and tried the special fish cake preparation—it was quite tasty!
In the evening, on the recommendation of the hotel lady, I specifically found a small guokui shop; the preserved mustard with sesame guokui was top-notch! By then, surrounding shops had also opened for business—it seems the nightlife is quite rich.
Walking along the residential alleys to Yangtze University, this was no ordinary snack street level—restaurants, small eateries, food stalls, pushcarts, flavors from all over, everything available.
Unfortunately, after just one guokui, I was almost full; then a bowl of hot dry noodles, and I was completely stuffed.
As for food, by Dasai Lane, it's no longer just one city or one town!
After Guan Yu Temple, I took a taxi back to Yinbin Gate, picked up the car, and drove to Dasai Lane to taste the flavors of Shashi.
A few-hundred-meter lane embedded among numerous high-rise buildings, with small eateries lining the bottom floors, busy with various pushcarts in front.
At 4 p.m., lunch was long over, night market not yet begun; there weren't many visitors, which gave a rare peace, but the food never stopped.
Amid the sea of food signs, I searched for those Jingzhou specialties.
Aizi Pies, Xiao Hu Duck, Round Bean Soaked Glutinous Rice, Jiuhuang Cakes, Gong'an Guokui, Beef Noodles, Li Min Spicy Hot Pot...
I thought there were already many Jingzhou flavors, but this short lane also accommodated foods from all over the country: Beijing Roast Duck, Qianxi Chestnuts, Changsha Stinky Tofu, Northeast Guobaorou, Fried Chicken, Grilled Skewers, Ran Noodles, Knife-Cut Noodles, Sushi... and Anqing Bao Mian—what is that? Wonton?!
For a moment, I didn't know what to eat! Sit down, and a bowl in my stomach means I can't taste others; eat while walking, and I can't savor carefully.
Alright then, takeaway! I queued for a box of 12 Aizi Pies; two preserved mustard guokui; Xiao Hu duck collarbones, duck necks, duck wings, and braised dishes—back to the hotel for a drink!
Zaotang noodles, a traditional Shashi breakfast. I specifically tried them before leaving Jingzhou, and unfortunately ran a red light while turning right and got a traffic violation—careless!
Before coming to Jingzhou, I was torn between staying in the Shashi area for food and bustling activity, or prioritizing the ancient city tour. I finally chose the Xueyuan Road area, with Yangtze University food nearby and not far from Jing Street and the ancient city—after all, touring the ancient city was the ultimate goal.
Manxin Mansion on Jing Street was a bit over budget, so I chose Meilihao Hotel.
This hotel is very new, fully equipped, and clean. The room is not large but sufficient.
What is most commendable is the service—the several young ladies there, I truly need to thank them! From helping park the car, bringing luggage upstairs, to recommending sightseeing itineraries and food—what more could you ask for?!
Following their recommendation, I visited Yangtze University Food Street and at an extremely inconspicuous small shop, had the most delicious guokui! I only booked one night on Ctrip, but due to the rain and itinerary, I extended for another night.
No need to search near the ancient city—Meilihao is really not far; on foot, by bus, by taxi, to Jing Street, Gong'an Gate—convenient from anywhere. No need to go to Shashi; Meilihao is away from the noisy downtown. No need to go to Dasai Lane; though good, it cannot compare to the completeness and affordability of the university area near Meilihao.
Travelogue Table of Contents: 1. Itinerary 2. Regrets at Jing Street 3. Night of Jingzhou Ancient City 4. Pure Loyal Prime Minister Extending the State's Fortunes, Divine and Mighty Sage of Eternal Righteousness. Strolling Through Jingzhou Ancient City, Savoring Thousand-Year Stories 5. Jingzhou Museum Really Worth It 6. Jingzhou Cuisine 7. Accommodation
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