Tokyo and Hakone Self-Guided Tour
This is a memoir that briefly records the trip to Tokyo and Hakone in April 2018.
【DAY1】Morning: fly from Shanghai to Tokyo, Japan; afternoon: go to Odaiba. Accommodation in Tsukiji: Royal Park Hotel - THE Shiodome
【DAY2】Tsukiji Market, Imperial Palace, Ginza, Tokyo Tower, Roppongi. Accommodation in Tsukiji: Royal Park Hotel - THE Shiodome
【DAY3】Go to Hakone. Accommodation: Kowakien Tenyu
【DAY4】Hakone Owakudani, Lake Ashi. After visiting attractions, return to Shinjuku. Accommodation: Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku
【DAY5】Sensoji Temple, Ueno Park, Akihabara Electronics Store, Tokyo Skytree. Accommodation: Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku
【DAY6】Meiji Jingu, Shibuya, Nakano. Evening shopping in Shinjuku. Accommodation: Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku
【DAY7】Return to Shanghai
① At Haneda Airport, buy a metro pass (includes Toei and Tokyo Metro 13 lines). Show passport for discount for foreign tourists: 1-day 800 yen, 2-day 1,200 yen. Two or three consecutive days are cost-effective. Tokyo's subways are operated by Toei and Tokyo Metro. If you are not familiar with Japanese transportation, buying a metro pass is the most cost-effective. Getting on the wrong train or getting off at the wrong station is common in a new place; with a pass, you don't need to buy single tickets anymore.
② For Odaiba, it is recommended to buy the Yurikamome 1-day pass for 820 yen, allowing unlimited rides between stations.
③ For Hakone, book the Odakyu Hakone 2-day Pass and Romancecar limited express tickets on the Odakyu official website.
On the morning of April 25, 2018, took ANA flight from Shanghai Pudong Airport to Tokyo Haneda Airport.
From Haneda Airport, take the airport monorail to Hamamatsucho, then transfer to the Oedo Line (Daimon Station) to Shiodome Station.
The automatic ticket vending machine offers multiple language options. Just check the fare chart for the station you are going to, insert the corresponding amount, and the ticket is issued automatically. Very easy to operate.
At Haneda Airport, be sure to buy the metro pass. Show passport for discount for foreign tourists: 1-day 800 yen, 2-day 1,200 yen. Two or three consecutive days are cost-effective.
The subway platform screens show Limited Express (red), Express (orange), Local (green), and arrival times. Limited Express and Express trains skip some stations, so check carefully where you need to go.
After arriving at Hamamatsucho, transfer to the Oedo Line (Daimon Station) and get off at Shiodome Station. To get to Royal Park Hotel - THE Shiodome, you don't need to go to the street level; the underground passage connects directly to the hotel.
Enter Royal Park Hotel - THE Shiodome from here.
Shiodome is beautiful, quiet, and convenient for transportation. The Yurikamome driverless train goes to Odaiba; one stop on the Oedo Line is Tsukiji Market; easy access to Disneyland and Sea Paradise. The room also offers views of Tokyo Tower and Mount Fuji. The room size is decent; I would stay here again next time.
Standard double room at Royal Park Hotel - THE Shiodome, enjoying the view from the window.
Yurikamome driverless train to Odaiba.
If you want to see more, it is recommended to buy the Yurikamome 1-day pass for 820 yen, allowing unlimited rides between stations.
Odaiba is a futuristic man-made island on Tokyo Bay, officially named "Rinkai Fukutoshin." It is known for its futuristic architecture, vast waterfront scenery, abundant shopping and entertainment facilities, and is a popular leisure destination for both locals and tourists.
Statue of Liberty (rained when arriving at Odaiba, so the photo quality is poor).
Fuji TV Building.
Rooftop garden: the layout is beautiful and tidy, pleasing to the eye.
Dinner at Odaiba Tsukiji Shokudo: eel rice plus salmon 1,800 yen, seafood rice 1,500 yen (with tuna, prawn, sea bream, arctic surf clam). One portion of eel rice is a bit too much for a girl.
Night view of Odaiba, unfortunately without a tripod. If time permits, find a café overlooking Tokyo Bay and enjoy coffee—truly a great pleasure in life.
Tsukiji Market generally opens at 7:00 AM, and good Japanese restaurants nearby open at 9:00 or 10:00 AM. Huge tuna (market already closed).
Various fresh, high-quality fish roe at affordable prices.
Fruits are much more expensive than in China.
Here you can buy the freshest and finest seafood of the day.
This shop has delicious and affordable scallops: large, fresh grilled scallops, one for 400 yen. There is a standing table nearby to eat. Many small shops are like this.
Seafood is abundant.
At Tsukiji, it's all about eating! Eating seafood! Bought at the inner market: wild abalone 5,000 yen (the shop steams and slices it on the spot), Hokkaido sea urchin 3,000 yen, tuna 1,000 yen, oysters 400 yen, salmon roe 900 yen. Strongly recommend the sea urchin and tuna; it's a waste not to try.
There is a designated area on the third floor of this light brown building where tourists can sit and eat the seafood they bought. After eating, everyone disposes of their own trash in the bins; everyone is very disciplined. As you can see, such a large market has no trash on the ground.
Upon leaving Tsukiji Market, you see Tsukiji Temple.
The Imperial Palace is built on the former site of the Tokugawa shogunate's power center—Edo Castle. After Tokugawa Ieyasu took over, Edo Castle became one of the largest castles in the world at that time, far larger than the current Imperial Palace. In 1868, the capital moved from Kyoto to Edo, and Edo Castle was renamed "Tokyo Imperial Palace," becoming the new political and imperial center. Most of the current buildings were built in 1968 in modern Japanese architectural style.
Nijubashi Bridge: the symbol of the Imperial Palace.
The vast Imperial Palace plaza paved with gravel is surrounded by greenery, free from noise, contrasting sharply with the forest inside, creating a solemn and tranquil atmosphere.
The foundation of the former keep of Edo Castle. The original keep was destroyed in the Meireki Fire of 1657 and was never rebuilt.
Ginza is one of the most prestigious luxury commercial districts in Tokyo and the world, symbolizing "Japan's showcase." Its name originates from the early Edo period (1612) when a silver coin mint was established here. Today's Ginza represents the ultimate fusion of tradition and innovation, East and West.
Shiseido is in Ginza 7-chome. It has two buildings: one sells cosmetics, and the other red building mainly houses restaurants, with pastries sold on the first floor.
Afternoon tea on the third floor of Shiseido: the desserts are exquisite and delicious.
Walking on Ginza street, saw a calligraphy exhibition and went in to have a look.
Japanese calligraphy still uses Chinese characters and writing styles. Some even feature ancient Chinese poems.
After finishing Ginza, still had time and wanted to go to Tokyo Tower. On the way, saw—Tokyo Station, modeled after Amsterdam Central Station.
Crowds on Tokyo streets.
A promotional car on the street, loudspeakers advertising. First time hearing such noise in Japan.
As we walked, it became evening. In the distance, Tokyo Tower was already sparkling with lights.
Bought tickets to go up Tokyo Tower for sightseeing.
At night, bought two apples at a supermarket for 699 yen. Very expensive, right?
Back at the hotel, found the shower head broken and couldn't shower. The front desk manager saw and immediately changed our room, upgrading us to a suite on the 35th floor. The manager politely led us to the room and said, "Sorry for the trouble. Are you satisfied with this room?" Although we were tired after a day of playing and wanted to rest early, moving things around was indeed a bit troublesome, the service attitude was commendable.
Travel in Hakone is dominated by Odakyu. With a Hakone Pass, you don't need to pay extra for buses or attractions—just show the pass. If you don't want to buy Romancecar limited express tickets, the pass can also be used. Take the Odakyu Line from Shinjuku Station to Hakone Odawara Station, then transfer to the Hakone Tozan Railway to Hakone-Yumoto Station (included in the two-day pass). The Odakyu Romancecar is a limited express train that goes directly from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto Station, bypassing the transfer at Odawara, taking only 85 minutes. The Romancecar has forward-facing seats that need to be reserved in advance. On the Odakyu official website, both the pass and Romancecar tickets can be booked, and there is a Chinese interface, which is very convenient.
Romancecar seats can be automatically adjusted to face forward or backward. If four people are traveling together and want to sit face-to-face and chat, it's very convenient. Take the Romancecar to Yumoto, and just outside the station is a bus stop with staff. Just show them a map and point to your hotel, and they will guide you to the right bus. Great service.
Kowakien Tenyu in Hakone faces a green mountain and forest, with a top-notch environment.
The reason to come to Hakone is to soak in hot springs. On the 5th and 6th floors of Tenyu, there are two bathhouses. Enter the bathhouse, change clothes, shower, then go into the bath. There are indoor and outdoor baths: indoor, you soak while viewing the scenery through glass; outdoor, you soak while enjoying nature. Each bath had only one or two people. After bathing, in the dressing room, there are free Shiseido skincare products. The bathtub in the room can also be used for soaking, but it felt too small, so we didn't use it. (No photos allowed in the baths, so no pictures.)
After soaking, rest on the tatami.
Dinner (pre-ordered). If you are Chinese, they will provide a Chinese menu.
Got up early to soak in the hot spring, enjoyed the outdoor bath alone—excellent. After soaking, had breakfast.
Took a stroll around the Tenyu garden.
Owakudani is the product of the last major eruption of Mount Hakone about 3,000 years ago (forming Mount Kami). Volcanic activity caused a collapse of the mountain, and then the underground magma chamber heated groundwater, resulting in continuous fumaroles emitting steam and volcanic gases. Before the Meiji era, due to its barren landscape and the smell of sulfur, it was called "Daijigoku" (Great Hell). After Emperor Meiji visited, the name was changed to "Owakudani" to avoid the word "hell." The entire valley is filled with white steam, strong sulfur smell, and exposed rocks covered with sulfur crystals, creating an otherworldly atmosphere.
A pastry chef demonstrating how to make pastries.
Heaven favored us: clear blue skies, and Mount Fuji in the distance seemed to wave at us.
Steaming hot, strong sulfur smell pungent, the ground covered with crystallized sulfur—truly a hell on earth.
About 3,000 years ago, the last major eruption of Mount Hakone caused lava flows to block the Hayakawa River, forming Lake Ashi. Took a pirate ship cruise on Lake Ashi, boarding at Togendai.
The lake water was deep blue, spring breeze gentle, the entire lake surrounded by mountains. Looking up, green as far as the eye could see, refreshing the mind and heart.
Many swan-shaped boats drifting freely on the lake, very pleasant.
The pirate ship docked at Hakonemachi, where we could explore a bit, then catch the next ship.
The pirate ship next docked at Motohakone, which has many attractions worth visiting. If you want to return to Yumoto, you can take a direct mountain bus.
From Motohakone, we reboarded the pirate ship back to Togendai, then took the cable car back to Yumoto. This allowed us to enjoy Lake Ashi again, and the cable car downhill was faster, allowing an earlier return to Shinjuku. Arrived at the hotel at 6 PM.
Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku is a 10-minute walk from the south exit of Shinjuku Station. Nearby are Odakyu Department Store, Takashimaya Department Store, and various other shops. Shopping is very convenient, but there are also many people. If you don't want to shop or don't like noise, do not stay in Shinjuku. It is said that Japanese hotel rooms are small, and this time we really felt it. Considering the size, we booked an 18-square-meter room. Upon entering, the bed was against the wall on both sides, with only about 80 cm of hallway on the other side. Truly as said online: a 28-inch suitcase couldn't even be opened. Moreover, the hotel facilities were old and couldn't compare with Royal Park Hotel - THE Shiodome, yet the price was higher.
At 6:30 PM, we met a friend for dinner. She had pre-booked this restaurant known for Omi beef, which had won awards.
Beef isn't cheap either.
We wanted to eat Ichiran Ramen but couldn't find it. With my friend's guidance, we finally found it.
The shop is small, with automatic vending machines for tickets. The soup is rich, and the beef is very tender—authentic Japanese ramen.
Each seat is very small. The shop was full, and after 8 AM, there was a queue outside. Amazing!
The history of Sensoji Temple is full of legends, dating back to the Asuka period. According to legend, in 628, two fishermen brothers, Hinokuma Hamanari and Takenari, caught a gold statue of Kannon in the Sumida River. A local chief named Haji no Nakatomo recognized it as a sacred object, converted his home into a temple, and enshrined the statue—this marked the beginning of Sensoji. In 645, Ennin built a hall for the Kannon statue and established the religious foundation of Sensoji. During the Edo period, Tokugawa Ieyasu designated Sensoji as a prayer temple for Edo Castle. Since it was located in the heart of Edo's commoner culture (Shitamachi), the temple thrived and became the cultural and religious center of Edo.
Kaminarimon Gate: the main gate of Sensoji, also a symbol of Asakusa and even all of Tokyo.
The streets on both sides are lined with various shops, full of Edo Shitamachi atmosphere.
The five-story pagoda, the second tallest in Japan (after Toji Temple in Kyoto), is a landmark in the Sensoji skyline.
Fortune-telling: draw a stick for 100 yen.
Wash hands before burning incense and paying respects to Buddha.
From here, you can see Tokyo Skytree.
The official name of Ueno Park is "Ueno Onshi Park," established in 1873 as Japan's first park. It is not only a beloved leisure spot for Tokyoites but also a mega cultural complex combining museums, art galleries, zoo, historical sites, and natural scenery.
Upon entering Ueno Park, we saw people dancing street dance, both men and women, very serious—could compete with Chinese aunties.
The National Museum of Nature and Science, from dinosaur skeletons to space exploration, covers natural and technological history, great for families.
The Tokyo National Museum, the oldest and richest museum in Japan, houses a vast collection of Japanese and East Asian art and archaeological artifacts.
Visiting the Tokyo National Museum, I felt that Japanese culture and history are far less profound than Chinese civilization.
Took a short rest outside the museum.
Art college students performing music.
Cherry blossom trees, each with a sign indicating the variety.
In late April, the cherry blossoms in Ueno had already fallen. Looking at the cherry blossom trees on both sides, imagining when they were in full bloom—how beautiful it must have been.
Roppongi is one of Tokyo's most representative international, high-class nightlife and art culture centers. It is famous for its dazzling night views, top-notch art venues, and many foreign embassies. It is a diverse area with a completely different atmosphere between day and night.
The giant spider statue "Manma," 10 meters high.
The Mori Tower is a 53-story skyscraper. Tickets for the observation deck and the art museum are sold together. The 52nd-floor glass observation deck offers a 360-degree view of Tokyo, including Tokyo Tower, Rainbow Bridge, Odaiba, and on clear days, Mount Fuji. Then go to the 53rd-floor Mori Art Museum. The top floor rooftop is also open; if interested, you can go up to explore. On the 52nd floor, there is also the Mori Arts Center Gallery, which holds temporary exhibitions from time to time, but tickets are not interchangeable with those for the observation deck and museum; separate tickets are required.
Night view taken with phone from the 52nd-floor observation deck of Mori Tower (couldn't use camera without tripod, too shaky).
From Mori Tower, we went directly into the subway passage to return to the hotel and saw this tonkatsu (fried pork cutlet) shop. Only then did I feel hungry. I had read online that local tonkatsu is also very good, so we tried it.
The pork cutlet was thick, crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, fragrant, and boneless.
One portion 3,300 yen, a bit expensive.
The torii gate is 12 meters high, the largest wooden myojin-style torii gate in Japan. It is made from cypress trees from Taiwan's Danda Mountain, estimated to be 1,500 years old. Passing through the torii gate means entering the sacred realm from the secular world.
The shrine priest stood completely still, like a puppet.
A traditional Japanese wedding.
From (somewhere) we came to Omotesando, where luxury brand boutiques line the streets. It happened to be Golden Week, and many people were waiting for the doors to open to grab sale items.
Nakano is an area adjacent to the west side of Shinjuku. Unlike the luxury of Ginza and the trendiness of Shibuya, Nakano exudes a strong local market atmosphere and subculture charm, known as "the Mecca of otaku."
In the evening, we went to Nakano for Japanese cuisine—a place where locals eat. A Japanese friend made a reservation for us ten days in advance. We took the Tokyo Metro Tozai Line to Nakano Station.
Sun Mall shopping street, stretching from JR Nakano Station's north exit to Nakano Broadway, a 250-meter-long shopping street full of nostalgia, bustling with people and vibrant atmosphere. It gathers various restaurants, drugstores, clothing stores, fruit and vegetable shops, 100-yen shops, and other daily necessities, offering a great window into the daily life of ordinary citizens.
This shop, located in a residential area, opens at 5 PM. At 4:30 PM, people were already waiting at the door.
The shop is small and looks a bit crowded, but it is not messy, nor noisy.
This is not a tourist area; the restaurant staff don't speak English, and the Japanese menu was unreadable, so we had to ask our friend for help. Finally, we ordered a classic set meal.
Raw egg mixed with beef.
Tuna was the star of the meal: six pieces of tuna arranged in order from the lower jaw, head, belly, back, middle, and tail. The waiter gestured to teach us how to eat. The lower jaw, head, and belly are fattier and suitable for grilling; the back, middle, and tail are suitable for raw eating.
What fish is this? The Japanese menu was incomprehensible.
This is beef. What is the dish called? No idea, haha. The entire set meal was only 6,200 yen. Isn't that much cheaper than in Shinjuku? (This shop is impressive; you need to reserve ten days in advance.)
From Haneda Airport, flew to Shanghai Hongqiao Airport.
This trip to Tokyo and Hakone was like a finely tuned symphony. Tokyo was the allegro, playing a rhapsody of modern urban life with dazzling neon lights, efficient transportation, and diverse culture; Hakone was the adagio, whispering a poem of nature with the warmth of hot springs, the tranquility of lakes and mountains, and the breath of volcanoes.
In Tokyo, I traveled between the future and tradition; the night view of Roppongi and the Kaminarimon of Sensoji were equally stunning. From the exquisite desserts at Shiseido in Ginza to the sweet burst of freshly opened sea urchin at Tsukiji Market, and late-night izakaya Omi beef, the density of urban gastronomy was astonishing.
In Hakone, the moment Mount Fuji reflected in Lake Ashi, all noise was purified by nature's beauty. Hakone presented the gifts of the mountains—the hot spring inn kaiseki meal with mountain bracken, trout, and handmade tofu depicted the changing seasons; the black eggs from the steaming vents of Owakudani left a memory of sulfur on the tongue. The cold milk after soaking in the hot spring overlooking Mount Fuji became the sweetest memory of the trip.
The two worlds are only an hour's drive apart but perfectly showcase the dual aspects of Japanese culture—extreme prosperity and extreme tranquility coexist harmoniously here.
Travelogue directory: 1. Preface, 2. Preparation, 3. Odaiba, 4. Tsukiji Market, 5. Imperial Palace, 6. Ginza, 7. Hakone, 8. Kowakien Tenyu, 9. Owakudani, 10. Lake Ashi, 11. Shinjuku, 12. Sensoji Temple, 13. Ueno Park, 14. Roppongi, 15. Shrine, 16. Nakano. Travel information: Hotel index, Itinerary index, Air ticket index, Website navigation, Travel index, Cruise index, Corporate travel index, Franchise cooperation, Distribution alliance, Partner links, Corporate gift card purchase, Insurance agency, Agency cooperation, Hotel franchise, Destination and scenic area cooperation, More partnership cooperation, About Ctrip, Ctrip hot topics, Contact us, Careers, User agreement, Privacy policy, Business license, Security center, Ctrip content center, Intellectual property, Trip.com Group algorithm disclosure.
