2019 Cherry Blossom Season: Revisiting Tokyo and Kyoto 90 (A Travelogue Completed After a Three-Year Delay)

Lilian, a post-00s student, finished her language school semester in March this year and was about to move from Tokyo to a university in Kyoto. It happened to be cherry blossom season, and I happened to have a round-trip ticket to Tokyo that I hadn't used yet. So I invited my friend Amanda, a culinary expert, to join me on a cherry blossom trip.

(I started writing this travelogue but put it aside. Today I finally decided to finish it. In between, there was a three-year pandemic, which makes me emotional. Because of the pandemic, my daughter Lilian didn't return to China for almost three years. I hope all the bad things will pass soon...)

D1: Guangzhou - Tokyo, Shinjuku Gyoen, stayed at a民宿 in Chiyoda Ward

Let me start with two cherry blossom photos. They look quite like clouds, don't they?

I looked it up: the cherry blossom season in Japan varies slightly each year depending on the weather. And regions as far apart as Hokkaido and Kyoto have different blooming periods. The official and unofficial forecasts are usually similar. We went on March 21st and were able to see cherry blossoms. Although the actual blooming was a bit later than officially announced, we watched the blossoms in Tokyo, then went to Kyoto, and returned to Tokyo again. We even saw the night cherry blossoms, so we really feasted our eyes.

The first two photos were taken on the first day at Shinjuku Gyoen. Although it was the blooming period, the cherry blossoms in Shinjuku were just beginning to open. There were still clusters of trees with no activity. I imagine it would be spectacular when they all bloom. By then, many tourists had already come to take photos under the trees. You could tell which were tourists and which were locals. The locals would lay out mats, bring food and drinks, and enjoy the cherry blossoms with friends, family, or colleagues—chatting and drinking.

We stayed at a 民宿 booked through Ctrip in Tokyo, costing 1,342 yuan for two nights. There was no elevator, and the room was so small we couldn't even open our suitcases properly. The so-called room was just two tatami mats filling the entire space.

(The following parts were added in 2022 when I resumed the travelogue. I've forgotten many details, so I'm relying on photos to recall.)

On this trip, except for the last night at a hotel, we stayed at 民宿s. The price was more economical than hotels, but the comfort level was indeed lower.

D2: Ueno Park, Ginza

On the second day, we continued our cherry blossom trip. I can't remember why we chose Ueno Park. Ueno Park is large, with a square and a pond. It has a symmetrical layout reminiscent of European gardens. I'll share two particularly memorable impressions. In the square, there was a young performer who was incredibly energetic. His performance was wonderful and lasted quite a while. His dedication to the performance was truly touching. You could see he was exhausted, but his enthusiasm never waned from start to finish. That's the young man named Shigure, holding the fan in the photo with Amanda.

In Japan, the cleanliness of restrooms is well-known. In my two trips to Japan, the only slightly unpleasant restroom experience was at Ueno Park. The facilities were good, but it felt a bit like the public restrooms at tourist attractions in China.

I didn't go to Ginza on my previous trip to Tokyo, so this time I did some homework. The commercial facades in Ginza might not be very new, and there aren't many large buildings. The atmosphere feels more refined and unpretentious. This photo was taken on the second floor of some dessert shop. I can't remember which one, only that it was very sweet—cloyingly sweet (that's a northeastern Chinese expression, isn't it?).

A bakery specializing in doughnuts. They were really dedicated. If I were a doughnut lover, I would have been thrilled.

Actually, we were looking for a shop that specializes in rice. I read about it in a book before coming and was very curious.

There were all kinds of rice and various rice products. Unfortunately, Tokyo was the first stop, so we couldn't buy things, especially heavy items like that.

We didn't want to skimp on food during the trip. That evening, we found a yakiniku restaurant near our accommodation. Actually, we walked around several places. Many izakayas were filled with people who had just gotten off work. Many were standing, just having a drink to unwind, even if they had to stand. Finally, we saw this restaurant with seats available and went in. Ordering was funny. The Japanese English and my 1990s College English Level 4 inevitably led to awkward communication. I remember the owner even drew a diagram of a cow to explain the different cuts of meat.

D3: Tokyo Kitchen Street

Amanda is a full-time mom who is an excellent cook and very particular. She is now a senior agent for Thermomix. This trip we found a spot perfect for her: there is a street in Tokyo dedicated to kitchenware. Many shops, with everything you can imagine for cooking and dining. Did we spend four hours there? I've only found one photo now—a stall selling various soy sauce dishes.

D4: Kyoto, Uji

It was my second time in Kyoto. This time we visited Kiyomizudera, checked in at the famous matcha shop in Uji, and went to Byodoin. I paid more attention to the residential buildings—their proportions, the details of their entrances—and felt a special warmth.

A corner of Byodoin, clean and tidy. The cherry blossoms had fallen; otherwise, it would have been even more beautiful.

Last stop on the return: back to Tokyo. My daughter stayed in Kyoto for school. Actually, this trip was also a short time of companionship. She had some classmates she knew, so I wasn't worried.

I heard that Nakameguro in Tokyo is the best place to see night cherry blossoms, so we booked a hotel in Nakameguro. Cherry blossoms were in full bloom on both sides of the river. It happened to be the opening of Starbucks Reserve Roastery, designed by Kengo Kuma—the fifth such store in the world. Fans lined up for a long time—was it for Starbucks or for Kengo Kuma?

The beauty of night cherry blossoms can't be fully captured by a phone. We strolled along the riverbank from dusk until nightfall.

Finally, I hope the pandemic will be over soon. I know there is so much beauty in this world waiting for me to experience.