Wandering Amidst Urban Lights and Shadows — Two and a Half Days in Tokyo and Yokohama

📍 Tokyo · 👁 2746 reads · ❤️ 1 likes

It felt like time had stood still for so long, until I found myself at the airport again, passport and plane ticket clutched in hand, barely able to contain my excitement. The journey, which I had thought would be a bit long at over three hours, suddenly became just a short nap.

When I set foot in Tokyo, it was already past noon. After navigating through layers of airport procedures, I arrived at the bustling Shibuya crossing near dusk. Winter sunlight is always so stingy; at just 4 p.m., it had already ushered in the prelude of night. Hurriedly settling my luggage, I followed my pre-made itinerary and headed straight for Shibuya's new landmark — Shibuya Sky.

Some say this is where you can find the most beautiful sunset in Tokyo. On the 47th floor, 230 meters above ground, surrounded by a 360-degree glass railing, the afterglow spills a coat of gold. Watching the city's lights go from sparse to a sea of twinkling homes, who is it across the city gazing back?

This new Shibuya landmark, opened in 2019, sits atop the Shibuya Scramble Square building. Unsure of my arrival time, I opted to buy a ticket on-site. Since there is a capacity limit on the rooftop, purchasing an online ticket directly from the official website not only allows you to reserve an entry time but also gives you a 200-yen online discount. For photographers hoping to capture the magic hour, this avoids the awkwardness of being unable to enter due to capacity limits during prime time. Fortunately, I went on the spot and managed to catch the daily peak "golden hour."

Following the signs, I took the elevator directly to the 46th floor, which serves as both a waiting area and an observation deck. Guided by the staff, I first went up to the 45th-floor observation area to store my belongings — selfie sticks, large backpacks, and the like are not allowed on the top floor. After placing everything except my camera and phone into lockers, I took the final escalator to reach the "Tokyo domination" open-air observation roof!

Before twilight, the weather was clear, and the distant horizon was vividly visible. The rooftop was equipped with sofa booths and an artificial grass relaxation area. I found a less crowded corner, lay down quietly, and watched as the dusk gradually painted the sky. It was breathtaking — a beauty that left me speechless. In the distance, rows of towering buildings were faintly visible in the twilight; closer by, office buildings and streetlights flickered, neon lights shimmering. Looking far into the distance, Tokyo Skytree and Tokyo Tower lit up in their respective signature colors on either side of the city. The night was gentle but swept through every corner of the city swiftly; in less than 30 minutes, it had turned from bright to dark. The Tokyo night, true to its nickname as the city that never sleeps, shone brilliantly.

The winter night was indeed a bit chilly, but the city before me made it hard to leave in a hurry. What urged me to go wasn't time, but my loudly complaining stomach. Well, beauty may be beautiful, but it can't fill your stomach — what a pity. So I moved on to Shinjuku to find some food.

Shinjuku was incredibly lively. The main road in front of Kabukicho was bustling with cars and people, showcasing the speed and busyness of this mega-city. I came in a rush with no particular requirements, so I plunged headfirst into the neon-lit alleys — or rather, I followed the aroma deep into the alley without hesitation.

The alley was lined with the characteristic red lanterns of eateries, casting a hazy yellow glow through the smoke rising from charcoal grills. The light illuminated diners who had spilled out from the small shops onto stools at the entrance, some chatting loudly, others eating heartily. The clinking of cups and plates radiated the warmth of everyday life. No wonder this narrow alley, named "Memory Lane" (Omoide Yokocho), frequently appears on travel guides and has become a must-visit spot for many foreigners in Tokyo.

Every open shop was packed to capacity. The lines between yakitori shops, izakaya, and grill stalls seemed blurred here. Without any particular attachment, I randomly chose a small shop with a few empty seats and ordered a few of the owner's recommended specialties. After appeasing my stomach, I quickly slipped out of the narrow alley, which could barely fit two people passing each other. I took a brief stroll around Kabukicho out of curiosity, marveling at the sheer number of people, and then returned to my accommodation to rest.

I woke up early, and Tokyo once again gifted me a bright and sunny day, as if welcoming a long-lost guest with a warm smile. Taking advantage of the early hour, I hurried out to my first stop of today's "long journey" — the Kadokawa Musashino Museum.

As early as the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, I heard that renowned architect Kengo Kuma, who designed the main stadium, had also designed a library museum. It was hailed as the ceiling of libraries. Having admired it from afar for a long time, I booked a time slot on the official website in advance and set off with excitement and curiosity on the JR Musashino Line.

The museum is about a 10-minute walk from the nearest Higashi-Tokorozawa Station. From afar, you can see a gigantic granite structure, like a celestial boulder, firmly planted in the center of the square. The surrounding shopping malls also adopt a geometric straight-line structure to match the museum, with rock-textured exterior surfaces that exude a rough yet uniquely refined elegance. One can't help but admire the architect's imagination.

The museum has five floors, with the entrance on the second floor, making it a semi-underground irregular building. The highlight is the Bookshelf Theater on the fourth floor. The double-height bookshelves stretch all the way to the ceiling, with an 8-meter height difference housing an estimated 50,000 books. It feels like a magical library from a fantasy world; looking up at the wall of thousands of books instantly makes you feel as if you're in a castle of knowledge. Called a "theater," it lives up to its name: every 20 minutes, a specially designed sound-and-light show takes place. The tens of thousands of books become part of the performance, as if enchanted, creating an immersive experience. If you're lucky, you might even encounter a drama or immersive experience event held here — you can check the museum's official website for updates. Besides the Bookshelf Theater, the Araki Mirai Secret Treasure Hall on the fourth floor is also worth a visit. Wandering among the bookshelves gives you an odd sense of secret treasure hunting, whether you find an interesting book on a shelf or catch a glimpse of a tiny eye peeking through a gap.

Additionally, the limited-time Ukiyo-e Theater exhibition on the first floor is not to be missed. Although there is a two-hour viewing limit, the visual effects covering various themes from natural science to art will definitely make you exclaim, "So cool!" Meanwhile, the manga and children's picture book area on this floor is a paradise for Japanese manga fans. Not only is there an astonishing number of manga books, but many out-of-print works can also be found here. The designer has placed plenty of seating here to accommodate the excitement of hardcore fans who can't tear themselves away from the stacks.

The third floor hosts an anime-themed exhibition that requires reservation, introducing Japan's proud anime culture. If you're tired and hungry, the restaurant on the fifth floor is perfectly placed. Note that after entering with a reservation, you have three hours to freely explore the museum. If you want to read thoroughly in the manga area or the fourth-floor book section, it's best to leave that as the last activity.

If you want to give your eyes a rest, the Higashi-Tokorozawa Park across from the museum is an excellent choice. The park houses a forest café, and after dark, you can enjoy the spatial light-and-shadow show permanently set up by the visual art team TeamLab. I, however, hurried off to Yokohama while it was still not yet dark.

Yokohama — too familiar. Perhaps it's because of the aroma of Chinatown that feels deeply familiar, or the Ferris wheel that made such a strong impression in Detective Conan.

As Japan's first modern port, Yokohama is diverse: there's the food-famous Chinatown, the retro red-brick warehouses, the surprisingly fun Cup Noodles Museum, the pink roller coaster at COSMOWORLD, and the fashionable Minato Mirai light-up event. Compared to daytime, I always prefer visiting Yokohama at night, since the night market in Chinatown has more flavor. Strolling past the red lanterns hanging high at the Kanteibyo (Guan Yu Temple), wandering among the fragrant restaurants and eateries, I sometimes feel as if I've been transported into an old Shanghai or Hong Kong street-life movie. Chinatown at dusk is full of the warmth of everyday life; even the neon signboards seem to tell stories of bygone days. Yet, just two streets away, all of this suddenly disappears into the steaming vapor from a street-side steamed bun shop, as clean as waking from a dream.

Chinatown has many eateries, but no fixed favorite. I bought a box of freshly cooked Shanghai-style pan-fried buns, ate them while they were hot, then went to a Taiwanese dessert shop across the street for a few skewers of fried chicken or a cup of milk tea. I could eat and wander this way until the diners at the big restaurants stumbled out with full bellies. By then, I was also satisfied, so I walked along the ceremonial archway of Chinatown all the way to the pier deck to admire the night view, feel the breeze, and watch the COSMOWORLD Ferris wheel's regularly scheduled light show from afar. The traditional market atmosphere and modern technological city blend so naturally here: on this side of the street, the bustle of food and neon; on the other side, high-tech illumination.

After nightfall, it was a bit chilly. Satisfied with the sights and food, I boarded the train and returned to my hotel in Shinjuku to rest.

The end of a trip is always marked by shopping — not just my usual purchases, but also friends and family's "shopping lists." With an afternoon flight, I didn't dare go too far, so I shopped near the hotel. Near Shinjuku Central Street, there were plenty of drugstores and department stores. For a budget-conscious traveler wanting to knock out all "shopping items" in one go, Don Quijote is a must. Conveniently located at the entrance of Kabukicho, it's within walking distance without needing a train. Here I come for a big haul!

As a working person squeezing in a weekend getaway, eye drops are one of my must-buy items every time I travel to Japan. I've tried many brands before, and after a travel companion recommended them, the Rohto Blue Diamond and Violet Diamond eye drops have become my regular repurchases.

I use Blue Diamond for myself, and Violet Diamond as gifts for my parents and aunts. Blue Diamond eye drops are a comprehensive type containing 12 active ingredients, which can simultaneously relieve eye fatigue, dryness, itching, redness, and protect the cornea. For an office worker glued to a computer, they are an essential daily necessity. Violet Diamond eye drops target age-related eye fatigue and blurred vision, stabilizing tears and sharpening vision, with multiple nutrients promoting eye cell metabolism, making them perfect for elders. At a price of 1,500 yen, they are among the highest-end eye drops in Japan. For the eye health of yourself and your family, these two are definitely the right choice.

Another eye-protecting product I often use myself is not eye drops but an internal supplement — Rohto V5 Strong Eyesight Capsules. They contain lutein necessary for retinal supplement. Taking one capsule daily effectively improves declining vision and blurred vision. A small box lasts an entire month, making it portable and affordable.

Since it's autumn and winter, I often wear hats, so choosing a good shampoo is important. Mentholatum's anti-itch and dandruff shampoo is the best solution for solving the embarrassment of dandruff caused by a hot, sweaty, and oily scalp. It effectively removes dandruff and quickly improves scalp redness and itching. Paired with the same brand's scalp eczema ointment, it takes away the shame of an oily scalp during autumn and winter.

This time, I was also asked by relatives to buy two specific ointments: one is the green box Mentholatum Urticaria Ointment, and the other is the yellow box Tendo Hemorrhoid Ointment. I heard they are also common household ointments. The urticaria ointment is hormone-free, light and non-greasy, and besides eczema, it works quickly on ordinary mosquito bites. The hemorrhoid ointment, with its eye-catching packaging, is a common household item in Japan.

Thus the short vacation came to an end. Travel time always feels so unreal. Quietly, I sent messages to friends confirming their shopping tasks were done, receiving a wave of "thank yous," and then headed back to the hotel to prepare for the afternoon return flight.

In just two short days, though I didn't escape the concrete jungle, I discovered a different perspective while seeking out Tokyo's urban lights and shadows. Seemingly random sightseeing, yet it was packed full. So farewell, Tokyo — perhaps I will see you again soon.

Travelogue Directory:

1. [Shibuya]

2. [Shinjuku]

3. [Tokorozawa]

4. [Yokohama]

5. [Don Quijote]

Travel Information

Hotel Index

Guide Index

Airfare Index

Website Navigation

Travel Index