Hokuriku Sightseeing: Toyama's Medicine Merchant Town, Amaharashi Coast, and the Tateyama Northern Alps Route

Though Toyama Prefecture and Ishikawa Prefecture (where Kanazawa is located) once both belonged to the Kaga Domain, Toyama has a different atmosphere. It is home to the famous Tateyama Northern Alps, and since ancient times it has been one of Japan's key centers of mountain worship, which has also shaped Toyama's distinctive local culture and customs.

Toyama: A Sacred Mountain Land, A Sea Bay Blessed by the Gods

(Photo courtesy: Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route)

(Photo courtesy: Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route)

Japan's inheritance of traditional culture has long been admired by people around the world, and it is one of the reasons why many foreign tourists fall in love with Japan. The Hokuriku region of Japan has been home to many exquisite artisan crafts since ancient times, which have evolved through generations of transmission. Previously we took you through the Niigata area in the eastern part of Hokuriku; this time we move slightly west to Ishikawa and Toyama, which were also within the sphere of the old Hokuriku Kaga Domain, traveling while discovering the tradition and innovation of Japanese crafts.

Like Ishikawa, the name "Toyama" may not leave much of an impression in travelers' minds. However, once you mention "Tateyama Kurobe," anyone who follows Japanese tourism will be familiar with it — the Tateyama Northern Alps Route, which features the "Snow Corridor" every spring, is a highly popular sightseeing itinerary both domestically and internationally, and it is the first place many people visit in Toyama Prefecture.

True to its name ("Toyama" means "wealthy mountain"), Toyama Prefecture is surrounded by mountains on three sides and faces the sea on one side. The Tateyama mountain range within the prefecture is a sacred site of Japan's native mountain worship, revered along with Mount Fuji and nearby Mount Hakusan as one of "Japan's Three Holy Mountains." Its highest peak reaches an elevation of 3,015 meters, surrounded by several other high peaks, offering the beauty of the Japanese Northern Alps while also showcasing the magnificent scenery created by humans and nature together — Kurobe Dam. Speaking of Kurobe, besides the Kurobe Dam, the Kurobe Gorge with its hot springs and峡谷 railway is also a must-mention, another popular sightseeing route in Toyama.

(Image source: PIXTA)

Although Toyama is indeed "wealthy in mountains," it also enjoys the bounty of the sea. Not only can the Amaharashi Coast on Toyama Bay offer a seascape with the Tateyama mountain range as a backdrop, but the prefecture also boasts seafood specialties such as white shrimp and firefly squid. More interestingly, Toyama is home to many quaint old towns, world heritage sites, and traditional crafts. For instance, Toyama is a historic medicine town, famous for the renowned "Etchū Hangontan" (a traditional herbal pill), which remains popular to this day. Other places worth visiting include the Gokayama Gassho-zukuri Village, a World Heritage site like Shirakawa-go, the Japanese Heritage site of Inami Town in Nanto City, and Takaoka, where the popular cast-metal brand "Nousaku" is based.

Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route: A Sacred Mountain Made Accessible, Magnificent Mountain Scenery with Ease

High mountains are considered sacred. Tateyama, revered as a holy mountain like Mount Fuji, is actually a general term for the "Tateyama Mountain Range" and the "Ushiro Tateyama Mountain Range"; there is no single peak specifically named "Tateyama." The old saying "The majestic Tateyama has 72 peaks and 8,800 valleys" reflects its long-standing status as a focal point of faith. As part of the Japanese Alps, the roof of Japan, the Tateyama area contains many peaks over 3,000 meters, offering not only magnificent mountain scenery and sunrises but also abundant alpine vegetation and some remaining glaciers.

This is the Tateyama that captivates many Japanese mountaineers, and thanks to its well-developed and varied cable cars and transportation systems, even those who do not usually hike can easily ascend and enjoy the majestic yet beautiful mountain landscapes — and this is the brilliance of the "Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route."

(Photo courtesy: Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route)

The Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route is a sightseeing route that traverses the Northern Alps, mainly between Tateyama Station in Toyama and Ogizawa Station in Nagano. It spans 37.2 kilometers with a maximum elevation difference of 1,975 meters, almost entirely within the Chubu Sangaku National Park. The spectacular scenery along the way is led by the Snow Corridor in April each year, and includes places such as Tateyama Murodō-daira at 2,450 meters, known as the "paradise above the clouds," with its Emerald Pond; the dreamlike wetlands of Midagahara; the three-layered autumn leaves at Daikanbō and Kurobedaira; and the awe-inspiring Kurobe Dam.

Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route (Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route)

Toyama side: Toyama Chihō Railway, Tateyama Station

Nagano side: JR Nagano Station, then bus to Shinano-Ōmachi Station, then transfer to Ogizawa Station. Direct buses to Ogizawa Station operate from April 16 to November 30.

Amaharashi Coast: The Sea and Tateyama Peaks — A Scenic Beauty That Moved Many Poets

(Image source: PIXTA)

The Tateyama peaks, the sea, and the charming sightseeing train — the iconic scenery of Amaharashi Coast and the JR Himi Line is a dream destination for many railway enthusiasts. The famous view of the sea and the Tateyama mountain range at Amaharashi Coast has been loved since ancient times, as seen in many poems in the classic Japanese poetry collection "Man'yōshū." It is said that the name "Amaharashi" (literally "clearing rain") originated from the story of Minamoto no Yoshitsune sheltering from rain under a rock now called "Yoshitsune Rock" as he retreated to Ōshū. For centuries, this landscape has remained breathtaking, but now there are more diverse ways to enjoy it: you can gaze at it from the seashore like the ancients, or savor it while eating sweets and meals at a seaside café or restaurant.

Directly behind Amaharashi Coast, about a 5-minute walk from JR Amaharashi Station, is the Amaharashi Roadside Station, a rest area for dining and tourist information. On its second floor, a café and light meal space offers pasta, udon, curry rice, and other dishes made with Toyama ingredients, as well as a variety of cute fruit parfaits and other desserts. With large floor-to-ceiling windows facing the sea in the dining area, it is very pleasant for taking photos or simply enjoying the delicious food and stunning view. If you prefer outdoor space, you can also sit on the terrace on the second or third floor when the weather is fine.

Besides viewing the scenery from the Amaharashi Roadside Station, you can also take the JR Himi Line train running between Takaoka and Himi. On this line, the retro sightseeing train "Belles montagnes" operates on Saturdays and Sundays (limited service). The interior of this train features the Toyama Inami wood carving craft, a Japanese Heritage, and special onboard meals are available for purchase to complement the stunning views of Amaharashi Coast and the Tateyama mountain range.

(Image source: PIXTA)

Amaharashi Roadside Station (Michi-no-Eki Amaharashi)

Address: 24-74 Ōta, Takaoka City, Toyama Prefecture

Hours: 9:00 – 18:00

*Hours are subject to seasonal changes; please check the official website before visiting.

Closed: Open year-round

Toyama Medicine Merchant Town: Wakan-yaku and Etchū Hangontan

With historical sites led by the World Heritage site "Gokayama Gassho-zukuri Village," Toyama Prefecture has more old towns and traditional culture than one might imagine. The traditional crafts mentioned earlier, such as Inami wood carving and Takaoka copper casting, are naturally part of it, but interestingly, Toyama is also a historic medicine town — as early as the Edo period, the medicines of Toyama City were very famous.

"Wakan-yaku," as the name suggests, is a general term for "Japanese herbal medicine" and "Chinese herbal medicine (Kampō medicine)," encompassing traditional pharmaceuticals that include both Japanese medicinal herbs and Chinese formula. It is said that when the feudal lord of Toyama went to court in Edo, he encountered another daimyō suffering from severe abdominal pain. He gave the daimyō some "Hangontan" that he carried with him, which saved him and demonstrated the pill's efficacy. After returning to Toyama, the daimyō's stomach pain quickly subsided after taking the medicine, surprising everyone and boosting the reputation of "Etchū Hangontan."

Although later, during modernization, Wakan-yaku represented by Hangontan was once questioned due to the influence of Western medicine and Western pharmaceuticals, the long-established pharmaceutical shop "Ikedaya Yasubei Shoten," founded in the Showa era, started as a wholesale business of traditional Wakan-yaku. After World War II, it revived the famous Edo-period medicine "Hangontan" from Etchū, adapting it to modern life and bringing Wakan-yaku back into contemporary living.

The current storehouse-style building of Ikedaya Yasubei Shoten was originally a warehouse for storing medicines. The wooden structure exudes a calm, vintage atmosphere, complemented by white-and-black noren curtains and various wooden chests and tools typical of traditional pharmacies, making it feel like something out of a martial arts novel or period drama. Inside, you can find a wide variety of interesting Wakan-yaku, as well as some Chinese medicinal herbs and medicinal food-related products. Of course, the traditional medicine-making demonstration is very popular; staff on site operate the preserved traditional pharmaceutical machinery, explaining the process and techniques while demonstrating, and finally allowing visitors to try it themselves.

If you are interested in Kampō-based medicinal cuisine, there is a café-restaurant called "Yakuto" on the second floor, offering a variety of medicinal dishes including lunch and desserts.

Ikedaya Yasubei Shoten

Address: 1-3-5 Tsutsumichō-dōri, Toyama City, Toyama Prefecture

Shop: 9:00 – 18:00

Restaurant Yakuto: 11:30 – 14:00

Shop: Open year-round (except New Year's holidays)

Restaurant Yakuto: Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays

Access: From JR Toyama Station, take the city tram towards Minami-Toyama Station, get off at Nishimachi, and walk 2 minutes.

(Image source: PIXTA)

Departing from Tokyo, it takes about 2 hours 30 minutes to reach Toyama via the Hokuriku Shinkansen. From Shin-Osaka, taking the JR Tōkaidō Line Limited Express Thunderbird to Kanazawa and then transferring to the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Toyama takes about 3 hours 30 minutes. It is worth noting that the JR Hokuriku Shinkansen is scheduled to extend from Kanazawa to Tsuruga in Fukui Prefecture in 2024, which will further shorten travel times from Shin-Osaka to Kanazawa and Toyama.

For traveling in Hokuriku, you can use the Hokuriku Arch Pass, a joint offering of JR East and JR West. An adult pass costs 25,500 yen and allows unlimited rides on Shinkansen and other JR trains from Tokyo or Kansai (Osaka, Kyoto) to Hokuriku (Kanazawa, Toyama) and beyond, including specified sections of the Noto Railway, IR Ishikawa Railway, and AINOKAZE Toyama Railway.

Wealth from the Mountains: A Historical Adventure Starting from the Mountains

(Photo source: PIXTA)

As I set down my pen, I can't help but feel that Toyama Prefecture, surrounded by mountains and sea, has so many worthwhile places to visit. Even the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route alone presents different scenery in spring, summer, and autumn, and with weather variations, one visit is not enough. This introduction mainly covered Toyama's mountains and sea, but in the southwestern Nanto area, there are many original Japanese village landscapes worth exploring. This incompleteness will become a reason for us to visit Toyama again on our next trip.