Winter Trip to Japan: Tokyo CityWalk

The unpredictable year of 2023 seemed to end in an instant. In 2023, I took 50 flights, covering 100,000 kilometers, 6 countries, 23 provinces and 54 cities, and began to embrace the world again. For my first overseas trip of 2024, I chose Japan, a familiar yet unfamiliar neighbor. After four years away, I had only used my previous five-year visa once—what a waste! I had to make efficient use of my newly issued five-year visa. With a certain airline's Asia flex ticket in hand, I picked a not-too-busy weekend to visit Tokyo, which I had been longing for, and took a long-awaited citywalk.

Why Tokyo? It was also a way to fulfill a wish I've had over the past few years. Although I've been to Tokyo four or five times before, it was either for hurried business trips or brief transit stops. I could hardly say I've really been there—at most, I'd only touched the tip of the iceberg. I never had the chance to freely wander the bustling streets and crowded alleys. I hadn't even visited landmarks like Senso-ji Temple or Tokyo Tower, and I couldn't tell north from south. This time, I did extensive research beforehand. Follow me as I explore this bustling Asian metropolis.

Tokyo is one of the world's largest cities, and it's impossible to see it all in one go. But Tokyo is characterized by many sub-centers, usually centered around JR and subway stations, each area with its own unique features. Simply put, if you take the JR Yamanote Line and walk around each station, you've basically covered most of Tokyo. This time, I didn't visit the overly familiar Ginza or Tokyo Station areas. Instead, I chose relatively less crowded spots and explored near my hotel, taking it easy—a slow tour of Tokyo.

Day 1: Tokyo Tower – Roppongi – Omotesando – Harajuku

Day 2: Senso-ji Temple – Ueno area

Day 3: Otsuka area

**Day 1: Tokyo – Tokyo Tower – Roppongi – Omotesando – Harajuku**

After getting off the plane and dropping my luggage at the hotel, I headed straight to Tokyo Tower, which I had been longing for. Visiting Tokyo so many times without seeing Tokyo Tower was simply inexcusable. The subway was convenient; I recommend getting off at Akabanebashi Station, and you can see it as soon as you exit. The tower itself isn't particularly striking in shape, but painted in red and white, it looks beautiful and can be seen from far away. It's definitely a landmark.

Shiba Park is right below Tokyo Tower. After exiting the subway and entering Shiba Park, walk uphill. There are several large lawns where you can take photos of Tokyo Tower. The nearby Zojo-ji Temple also offers a good shooting spot. After taking pictures, I saw the famous Instagram-worthy staircase, which turned out to be a garage entrance. The line was incredibly long, so I gave up. Actually, there are several small intersections nearby where you can get good shots; stepping back a bit to include the streets gives a different feel.

I walked to Roppongi, which seems like an expat area with many embassies. The restaurants and shops are more international. Roppongi Hills is a complex with shopping malls, art museums, restaurants, observatories, and cinemas—a great place to explore and especially suitable for photographing Tokyo Tower and city panoramas.

At 5 p.m., the lights of Tokyo Tower and the surrounding streets come on. Tokyo Tower at night is absolutely stunning.

From an outdoor pedestrian bridge, you can get the best angle of Tokyo Tower with its lights, without buying an observatory ticket.

To capture Tokyo's skyline, go to the Mori Art Museum (top-floor observatory). You don't need a museum ticket; just buy an observatory ticket. With it, you can climb to the outdoor top-floor observatory and enjoy a 360-degree view of Tokyo. It's especially romantic at sunset and under the night sky.

I'm quite good at walking, so after watching the sunset, I walked to Omotesando (or you could take one subway stop). This street is a classic fashion district in Tokyo, home to big brands and young designer labels, and you can see many fashionistas.

Continuing ahead brings you to the famous Shibuya. The renowned Hachiko statue still stands at the intersection, with a huge crowd lining up for photos. Here, you can also witness the world's busiest pedestrian crossing—when traffic lights change, a sea of people surges forward, quite spectacular. The area is bustling with neon lights, offering everything for eating, drinking, and entertainment. Tourists from all over the world flock here to enjoy Tokyo's vibrant nightlife.

**Day 2: Tokyo – Senso-ji Temple – Ueno area**

On the second day, I headed straight to Senso-ji Temple early in the morning. Even at 9 a.m., there were already many people.

General route: Kaminarimon Gate – Nakamise Street – Hozomon Gate & Five-Story Pagoda – Fortune slips & Omamori – Main Hall (Kannon-do)

Kaminarimon is the main gate of Senso-ji, with a huge red lantern bearing the characters "Kaminarimon". It's a popular photo spot and has a cinematic feel. Take some pictures and then head inside.

Nakamise Street has many souvenir shops, gifts, and snack stalls. However, people from China who have seen Yiwu products probably won't be too interested in the goods—only in the food.

After passing through Nakamise Street, you reach the second gate, with the Five-Story Pagoda as a backdrop. Beyond that, you can draw fortune slips and purchase omamori (charms). You can choose omamori according to your wishes, but don't open them—May they protect you with their spiritual power throughout the coming year.

Kaminarimon: the main gate of Senso-ji, with its large red lantern reading "Kaminarimon".

Nakamise Street: use a telephoto lens to capture the bustling crowd.

Second gate with the Five-Story Pagoda in the background.

Draw fortunes and buy omamori.

Main Hall (Kannon-do).

Across from Kaminarimon, there is the Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center. Head to the 8th floor for a view of Tokyo Skytree and Senso-ji.

Strolling around the area is quite relaxing. Cross the bridge and sit by the river. There are many alleys where you can capture photos of Skytree—very photogenic.

Nakamise Street next to Senso-ji is quite large, with various shops and restaurants. I even spotted a SUGI Pharmacy chain right on the edge of Nakamise Street, very easy to find. I've bought things at this drugstore before, so I grabbed my shopping list items: Daisee artificial tear eye drops, Daisee cold medicine, and more all at once.

Every time I come to Japan, one must-visit shopping spot is the dazzling drugstores. Not only do young women get stuck there, but I also do a big haul for myself and my family. However, Japanese drugstores have such an overwhelming variety that it's easy to get lost. Here are a few items I often buy; I keep photos of them on my phone and just show them to the staff to help find them.

- **Taisho Rikken Power DX**: For friends who, like me, are busy with work and travel frequently, try Taisho Rikken Power DX. These magical little pills are a great fatigue-relief item in Japan, recommended by many Japanese friends. They are rich in taurine and vitamins B1, B2, B6, etc., which promote energy circulation and effectively relieve daily physical and mental fatigue, restoring energy. I've taken them for a long time and formed a habit. Since they are caffeine-free, taking them before bed doesn't affect sleep, and I wake up energetic the next day.

- **Daisee Artificial Tear Eye Drops**: In the past, the most common purchase at Japanese drugstores was eye drops. They have a wide variety and good effects. I always bought many for friends and family. Three years passed, and the eye drops I had stocked expired, so this time I went on a shopping spree. I recommend Daisee artificial tear eye drops. They are a blessing for people like us who stare at phones and computers all day. They effectively relieve dry eye and eye fatigue. These eye drops are preservative-free, so they can be safely used while wearing contact lenses. They also come in convenient single-dose packaging, making daily use more hygienic. I was lucky that this particular store had the 2024 upgraded version, which is even more effective! So I brought them for family and friends—they make a great souvenir.

- This winter has seen a rampant flu season. I got hit several times and suffered terribly. The staff recommended Taisho cold medicine. This series has a high market share among comprehensive cold medications in Japan. The guaifenesin in Taisho cold medicine granules quickly expels bacteria adhered to the throat, effectively relieving cold symptoms. I bought several boxes to keep at home.

- **Taisho Children's Cold Medicine**: Families with children can also stock up on Taisho children's cold medicine. Both the granules and syrup have a light strawberry flavor, which kids easily accept. The best part is that it contains no caffeine, dl-methylephedrine hydrochloride, or other ingredients that affect sleep, so children's sleep is undisturbed. Many parents visiting Japan bring some back.

Japanese drugstores sell not only medicine but also an overwhelming variety of snacks and drinks. I also bought some Taisho Rikken Power jelly drinks for kids; apparently, they taste good, and the Pikachu and other anime characters on the packaging are enough to attract children.

I walked to Ueno Park. Ueno has a long history. As Japan's first park, established in 1876, Ueno Park houses art museums, museums, and other cultural facilities. After Ueno Station opened in 1883, many department stores and commercial facilities appeared around the station, gradually becoming more prosperous.

In 1972, pandas arrived at Ueno Zoo, sparking a panda craze across Japan and laying the foundation for the symbol of "Ueno and pandas." There are also shopping spots like Ameyoko Shopping Street, Matsuzakaya, and ABAB, attracting large crowds.

There are so many museums. I spent half a day just at the Tokyo National Museum. The main building features Japanese artifacts and art, while the auxiliary building mainly houses Eastern art from China, India, Egypt, and other regions. The exhibits were rich and varied. There were also a few special exhibitions, but I simply didn't have time. The small garden behind the museum is very elegant, comfortable and pleasant under the warm sun.

I continued through several quiet neighborhoods. There were many small shops along the way. I even saw a Japanese man bathing his pet hawk—quite amusing.

I arrived at Nezu Shrine, a less crowded spot. It was easy to take photos of the Senbon Torii (thousand torii gates) without people. If you want to take portraits with the torii gates, this place is also very photogenic.

Shrines are places to worship deities, often integrated with natural landscapes like mountains, forests, and water sources, considered the dwellings of gods. People visit shrines to pray, give thanks, and offer wishes. There are many large and small shrines in Tokyo. Nezu Shrine is one of the oldest in Tokyo. What impressed me most is that, like Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto, it has a large number of torii gates. It's no exaggeration to call it a mini version of Senbon Torii.

Returning to Ueno Station, the area under the elevated tracks, known as Ameyoko Shopping Street, stretches about 500 meters with nearly 400 shops. They sell seafood, fruit, Asian ingredients, snacks, as well as sneakers, bags, accessories, and other small fashion items and sundries. You can find almost anything here. At any time, you see many Japanese and foreign tourists bustling about.

So, when you come to Ueno, whether you want to eat croquettes, takoyaki, yakitori, or other Japanese dishes, or Turkish kebab, xiaolongbao, bubble tea, or other international foods, there's no problem. There are also many izakayas open from daytime. If you want to relax with a drink during the day, Ueno is the place to be.

**Day 3: Otsuka area**

After two consecutive days of walking, I was a bit tired. Today I slept in and wandered around the neighborhood.

I stayed at Hoshino Resorts' OMO5 Tokyo Otsuka. The location was excellent—just 100 meters from Otsuka Station, visible upon exiting. I understand OMO as Hoshino's urban lifestyle hotel brand, focusing on guest experience, making the hotel a home away from home, and strengthening the connection between guests and the local community.

The public spaces of this OMO were very design-oriented, using natural wood tones and textures. Through partitions, they separated the dining area, lounge, workspaces, etc., creating many atmospheric nooks. The lighting and decor made guests feel comfortable and relaxed.

My room was on the top floor. The hallway had narrow glass windows offering glimpses of Tokyo's skyline. The room was small, but the YAGURA room, inspired by traditional Japanese lattice structures, maximized the space. The raised bed divided the area into a sitting area and a sleeping area: downstairs for relaxing and socializing, upstairs for sleeping—each undisturbed. It felt especially suitable for families with kids. The walls featured wood拼组 designs for storage and display, saving space and adding aesthetic appeal. Outside the window was the Otsuka skyline, indescribably beautiful at sunset.

Otsuka's "Toden Arakawa Line" is Tokyo's only remaining tram line, becoming a local icon. The hotel's large "GO KINJO Map" marked interesting sights and shops near OMO5. Following the OMO staff, I started a fun citywalk.

The nearby neighborhoods hid many shops known only to locals, adding a sense of mystery at night. The 80-year-old "Senari MONAKA" is famous for its dorayaki, visited daily by many old neighbors. The owner of "Yajimaen" was an interesting elderly gentleman who loves to chat. He had been to Yunnan and Xiamen in China, and he reminisced about those days with great enthusiasm. His green tea is sold online. I suggested he open a store on Taobao so Chinese customers could buy it.

In the evening, I entered a small izakaya called TSUZUMI with only a few seats. The elderly couple who owned it had been running it for over 30 years, ever since they were young. Regular local customers had become friends. Their tempura was exceptional.

After dinner, I had a Japanese craft beer at TITANS, an American-style beer hall, experiencing the after-work life of Japanese office workers.

At night, I returned to the OMO lobby, where a DJ night had started. Nostalgic Japanese music, vinyl records paired with colorful neon lights, felt like stepping back into the 1980s.

**Tokyo Haneda Airport Entry Guide**

I recommend registering on the Visit Japan Web before departure to complete the electronic immigration procedures for Japan. The first time requires entering some information, which is a bit troublesome, but you can choose Chinese language. After that, it's simple. Complete the entry declaration and customs declaration in advance to generate a QR code. Present the QR code upon arrival—no need to fill out paper entry and customs declaration forms. Those with QR codes and those with paper forms queue separately, so you can save a lot of time.

It's recommended to install Suica on your phone wallet and charge it in advance. No deposit required. Before finishing the entire trip, you can charge an exact amount so that the card balance is 0 yen after returning home.

If you take the subway many times a day, you can buy a 1- to 3-day pass. But Tokyo Metro and JR are operated by different companies and passes are not interchangeable. Use Google Maps for addresses and transportation—it's very accurate.

In the past, I used mobile data in Japan, costing about 30 yuan per day. The biggest inconvenience was that I couldn't use Google Maps (you know why). This time, I used an Yidian Card SIM card, which cost just over 100 yuan for five days, with basically unlimited daily data. Download the Yidian Link app to buy the card, top up, and check balance—very convenient.

Japan's current tax-free system allows foreign tourists to buy souvenirs at duty-free shops without paying the 10% consumption tax, but they are not allowed to resell the purchased items in Japan for profit. However, some department stores require you to pay the full amount first and then apply for a tax refund at the store's tax refund counter, which charges a handling fee. So the actual refund rate you receive is 8.45%.