Kyoto, a Moment That Stuns Time
As a first-time traveler to Japan, most people first think of bustling Tokyo, international Osaka, or the winter resort Hokkaido. I, too, assumed Kyoto was just a transit stop from Kanto to Kansai on a seven-day, six-night itinerary, with no great expectations. Visiting in winter, without the cherry blossoms adorning the mountains in spring, without the layered autumn foliage, and even with the Sagano Romantic Train halted, what could one do in Kyoto? But after passing through Tokyo, Hakone, Kyoto, Nara, and Osaka, my family unanimously agreed that Kyoto has the most charm and is the destination that best embodies traditional Japanese characteristics. Without further ado, let's get down to business.
Upon arriving in Kyoto, Arashiyama is a must-visit. Arashiyama is a natural scenic area in the western suburbs of Kyoto, including both sides of the Togetsukyo Bridge and the Sagano district. Its cherry blossoms and autumn leaves are famous, and the picturesque Sagano Bamboo Grove exudes Kyoto's unique charm. Additionally, many well-known temples and shrines are scattered around Arashiyama. The most famous attraction here is the steam locomotive, the Sagano Romantic Train, which offers a romantic way to tour Arashiyama and the Hozugawa River valley. However, when we arrived, we were told it was temporarily out of service. With elderly and children in tow, I reluctantly chose another mode of transportation: a boat ride down the river.
Rafting in Japan in winter was unexpected. As it was the off-season, there were few tourists, with only four boat trips per day. We patiently waited over an hour and finally boarded a boat departing from the Hozugawa River. Once on board, the boatman introduced his team in broken English: the captain—steersman; crew member No. 1—poleman; and himself—the oarsman. Then he asked about each passenger. There were 15 passengers in total, only one Japanese woman accompanying her Taiwanese boyfriend; the rest came from around the world. After a simple and humorous icebreaker from the boatman, our wooden boat carried us downstream.
After passing the Hozugawa Bridge, the current alternated between slow and swift. When moving slowly, we could enjoy the beautiful scenery along the banks. The trees on the slopes were lush and dense, standing close together, striving upward. The straight trunks, over ten meters tall, had no branches or leaves, with crowns like hats perched on top. Various stones dotted the riverbank. The boatman occasionally pointed to one and used simple English words to describe its shape, and indeed it was quite lifelike. Wild ducks, egrets, and mandarin ducks inhabited the river, swimming or foraging, some playing in groups, others lost in thought. As the wooden boat passed, the waterbirds skimmed the water and flew up, creating a peaceful natural scene. Delighted, I picked up my phone to capture the beauty, but the boatman warned of rapids. Just as the boat seemed about to crash into a rock on one side, before we could scream, the boatman used his pole to adjust the direction. In an instant, the boat passed through the gap between rocks on both sides, rushing down with the rapids. Splashes flew, passengers cheered and laughed, and the sound echoed through the gorge.
Thus we drifted downstream, enjoying the scenery and chatting and laughing all the while. The boatman occasionally performed some unique tricks: waving the pole, walking a tightrope on the gunwale, plunging the pole into the water and catching it smoothly... Soon the rafting trip neared its end. After passing the last rapid, the water gradually widened and calmed. In the distance, a bridge spanned the river. The boatman said it was Togetsukyo Bridge, which Premier Zhou Enlai had once visited. Realizing we would soon disembark, I eagerly asked the boatman if I could try the oar work. He gladly agreed and taught my son and me the proper movements. After a few tries, I realized this work was indeed not easy—no wonder they were sweating profusely even in winter. Beautiful moments are always brief. When the boat docked, everyone reluctantly got off and said goodbye to the boatmen.
After disembarking, a light drizzle began to fall. We followed the crowd to the head of Togetsukyo Bridge. At the crossroads ahead was a commercial street full of traditional Japanese character, lined with shops offering snacks, desserts, and various trendy items. It resembled Tokyo's Asakusa in some ways, but the street was a bit wider, less crowded, and less commercialized. The food was more distinctly Kyoto-style, such as matcha-flavored cold drinks and various tofu-based delicacies. In the misty rain, young women in kimonos holding umbrellas became highlights of the street. Occasionally, a rickshaw passed by with tourists, as if transporting us to the streets and alleys of Kyoto decades ago.
As we walked, we reached the Sagano Bamboo Grove path. The bamboos were tall and dense, and the air in the bamboo forest was pleasant despite the rain. But honestly, compared to bamboo forests in China's Sichuan or Jiangsu-Zhejiang regions, this one seemed much smaller. Passing through the bamboo grove led to the back gate of Tenryu-ji Temple. Since the following day's itinerary was all about temples and shrines, we skipped Tenryu-ji.
Pressed for time, we reluctantly left Arashiyama and took a bus to the next stop: Kinkaku-ji. Kinkaku-ji's official name is Rokuon-ji. Because the exterior of its core building, the Shariden, is entirely covered in gold leaf, it is also called the "Golden Pavilion Temple." Built in 1397, it was originally the villa of Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu (the prototype of the general in the anime "Ikkyu-san"). "Ikkyu-san" was an anime that accompanied our generation growing up, so I already felt a fondness for Kinkaku-ji before visiting. Another unique aspect: after purchasing tickets, we received not a regular admission ticket but a paper talisman with blessings written on it.
Kinkaku-ji is surrounded by a pond. It is said that the garden centered on the Golden Pavilion represents the Pure Land of Ultimate Bliss. The pond, called Kyoko-chi (Mirror Pond), reflects the Golden Pavilion, creating a quintessential Kyoto scene. The rain kept drizzling, raindrops hitting the pond in front of Kinkaku-ji, causing ripples. The temple looked even more enchanting in the rain, distinctive and elegant. I couldn't help thinking: Ashikaga Yoshimitsu must have been truly happy living here!
The rain intensified, so we quickly finished our visit to Kinkaku-ji and drove to Kani Doraku for a sumptuous dinner, starting the day's highlight—our daughter's birthday celebration. The family sat together enjoying crab cuisine, immersed in Japanese food culture, filled with joy. After the birthday song and a handcrafted Japanese birthday cake, a perfect day in Kyoto came to an end.
Japanese cuisine is closely related to its geography and culture. Japan has limited ingredients compared to China's vast variety of dishes. With simple cooking methods, exquisite plating, and modest portions, Japanese food preserves the original flavors to the greatest extent and maintains a cultural habit of resource conservation. In Kyoto, you must try the local specialties. Whether in Arashiyama's shopping street or Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka near Kiyomizu-dera, various local delicacies are gathered. Strolling and snacking, the biggest regret is having only one stomach.
Kyoto is most famous for its tofu. The tofu here is very smooth and delicate. Deep-fried tofu could be mistaken for fish cake, with a burst of cheese inside—no wonder there's such a long queue.
Tofu udon noodles: a purely vegetarian dish. The tofu soup is pure and slightly sweet, paired with chewy udon noodles—smooth and not greasy.
It is said that matcha originated in Kyoto. Various desserts, cold drinks, and even tea served with meals are all matcha flavored.
Additionally, in Kyoto we enjoyed Kani Doraku. Both the dining environment and the taste of the dishes were excellent. Various parts of the crab were prepared using different cooking methods, served with side dishes, presented course by course, full of ceremony.
Kani Doraku offers set meals at various prices, roughly 200 to 600 RMB per person. Though a bit pricey, it's worth experiencing once.
This Kyoto trip was a brief overview due to time constraints; we didn't have a chance to savor it deeply. Also, visiting in winter, we missed the beauty of Kyoto adorned with cherry blossoms. Every trip brings gains and a few regrets, but regrets are reasons and hopes to return. I hope to visit again when spring flowers bloom, to fully appreciate Kyoto that has flowed through a thousand years, savoring the city's blooming flowers and ancient temples, Arashiyama's romantic scenery, Gion's traditional arts, and the street's local culture. Regardless, this short Kyoto trip was still a surprise in our Japan journey, a moment that stuns time.
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