Three Days and Two Nights Taught Me That 'The Dancing Girl of Izu' Requires a Ticket

Yes, after 6 years, I've come to Japan again.

Yes, after 6 years, I've gone to Tokyo again.

But the photos and itinerary for Tokyo are too messy, let me first use a log to reminisce about the relaxing 3-day-2-night trip to Atami and Izu.

Starting from Shinagawa Station in Tokyo, taking the Shinkansen to Atami was such a simple thing, yet it went wrong from the start. Because I entered from another station with Suica, I couldn't use the virtual Suica at the machine inside Shinagawa Station to buy a Shinkansen ticket. Well, blame it on me not doing my homework beforehand. After sweating profusely, I obediently queued up at the manual counter for foreigners.

Arriving at Atami Station, I was immediately bombarded by cute things and quirky things. I marveled for the hundredth time at how the Japanese have cuteness in their bones.

Using Google Maps, which tends to wander into small alleys, I navigated to a soba noodle shop. Soba is a local specialty here, but my travel companions insisted on udon, so I smiled and kept quiet.

Sitting cross-legged on tatami, I slurped cold soba noodles dipped in warm, savory duck broth. Hmm, it felt just like the stereotypical Japanese summer.

[Senpachi 泉八 3-8 Tawarahoncho, Atami, Shizuoka 413-0011]

After the meal, I took a taxi to the famous MOA. Well, in Atami, you can take taxis without worrying about your wallet (not really).

MOA was not crowded. After riding three super long escalators, I reached a hall with a rainbow-colored chandelier spinning round and round. I thought it was ugly and tacky at the time, but looking back at the photos now, it's actually quite nice.

[MOA Museum of Art 26-2 Momoyamacho, Atami, Shizuoka 413-8511]

Rushing out of the hall, the view opened up, and I suddenly remembered why I came to Atami—for the sea.

Then came some rather boring regular exhibitions. But the artifacts were still beautiful.

Then came some Japanese garden beauty that was worth the trip and the ticket.

Not being a hardcore traveler, I ran out of energy and had to sit down at a café whenever I found one.

At the next table, a Japanese girl immediately pulled out a handkerchief when her boyfriend dripped ice cream, crouched down, and started wiping his pants and shoes. That was another cultural shock for me...

What is the focus of a hot spring trip? Yes, it's leisure.

So, right after coffee, I took a taxi to the hotel to check in. While queuing for a taxi, a kind Japanese girl who didn't realize we were a group of four offered to give me a ride downhill. Thank you.

After ruling out dozens of hotels in Atami (and Izu) that were too old and cramped, too obviously Instagrammable, overpriced, or had poor service, I chose this small hotel nestled in the mountains and woods. It felt wonderful at first sight—secluded, quiet, with beautiful plants, decor, and service. The restaurant was too expensive, so I didn't try it.

So, I'll be posting many photos next; if you don't like it, you can scroll past quickly.

[SOKI ATAMI 4-36 Koarashicho, Atami, Shizuoka 413-0029]

There was a small town near the hotel with many restaurants within walking distance. The weather in late May in Atami was so comfortable. After soaking in the hot spring, walking outdoors with a gentle breeze was delightful.

The kaiseki-like dinner that the hotel staff booked for us turned out to be good, and we had some beautiful sake. The waitress couldn't speak a word of English! I managed with my broken Japanese learned from Duolingo. (Duolingo, please pay me!)

[Atami・Local Fish Sushi Kashita 3-6 Ginzacho, Atami, Shizuoka 413-0013]

[Remember this 'golden sea bream'; it appears at every meal]

Being in a mountainous area, that night's drinking was solved by buying from 7-11 and bringing it back to the hotel. Yes, a spoiler: every day in Tokyo involved drinking.

[Even from a convenience store, melon and ham paired well with sake]

The next morning's breakfast was still satisfying.

[Yes, breakfast also came with grilled golden sea bream]

It started raining in Atami, so we took a taxi to the station and headed to the next stop—Izu.

At the station, I was pleasantly surprised to find the 'Kinmedai' train, which only runs three times a day and I had been too lazy to research. It was right there in front of us! This train's special feature isn't just its cute golden sea bream decorations but also its seats facing the window, allowing the Izu sea to accompany you as you ride.

We arrived smoothly at Izu-Kogen Station, but our luck probably ran out on the Kinmedai train... Heavy rain, relentless heavy rain. The original plans for Mount Omuro and the Cactus Park were postponed to the next day, and we went straight to the hotel to lie down.

When I booked the Ito hotel, I assumed we'd spend most of the time outdoors, so I only needed it to be clean and not old, close to Mount Omuro, have a hot spring, offer half-board, and preferably a sea view. But now we couldn't even step out of the hotel, so we had to pay extra on the spot to upgrade to the premium lounge with unlimited drinks, drinking one glass after another to drown our sorrows.

[KAMENOI HOTEL IZUKOGEN (Kamenoi Hotel Izu Kogen)]

[There wasn't a hint of a sea view from the window]

The hotel's hot spring bath was very comfortable, with a mountain view on one side and a sea view on the other. Because of the rain, soaking in the outdoor bath was even more enjoyable. Ah well, the rain had some benefits after all.

After drinking and bathing, it was time for dinner. By then, the sky had cleared a bit, raising false hopes, and my mood improved. Then (though delicious), there was indeed golden sea bream again!

The next morning, I got up and soaked in the sea-view hot spring in the rain. I went to the restaurant for a bad cup of coffee, a good cup of milk, and a bowl of mixed ochazuke that I made myself, which was quite tasty. Hmm, no wonder I have dopamine receptors in my esophagus—my gloomy mood actually got better!

I packed my bags, ready to return to Tokyo for shopping. At that moment, the sky cleared! I immediately rushed to the Cactus Park next to Mount Omuro. (According to a professional camping weather forecast, the rain would stop a bit later, so I chose to go to the zoo first.)

[Izu Shaboten Zoo (Izu Cactus Park)]

At the zoo, it was alternately raining and clearing. Watching the cable cars slowly moving on Mount Omuro in the distance and accompanied by adorable animals, I had a good time. I even got to pet the capybara I had been longing for! It was worth the trip!

I have to say, though capybaras are stable and adorably goofy, what really hit my heart was the fennec fox!!!

I have to exclaim again that animals have such strong energy. I was both tired and excited throughout. Okay, after petting the capybara, I headed to Mount Omuro to go wild!

From the back gate of the zoo, a three-to-five-minute walk brought me to the foot of Mount Omuro where the cable car boarding area is. Heh, in the wind and rain, the ticket clerk told me the cable car was suspended, suspended for the entire day.

I wanted to say, you know, my entire three-day-two-night trip to Atami and Izu was for this Mount Omuro! And the cable car is suspended!!!

Just look at how beautiful Mount Omuro is on the official website, not to mention the photoshopped posts on Xiaohongshu.

But my visit to Mount Omuro yielded only one picture, as shown below.

Fine, no problem, life is full of regrets. I'll just go back to Tokyo. Please, ticket clerk, call a taxi to Ito Station for me. She made two calls and said, 'Sumimasen, no cars...' 💥

Fine, no problem, life is full of surprises. I'll take the bus... The bus wound slowly through the mountains for over forty minutes before finally reaching Ito Station.

I checked the map. The fastest way from Ito to Tokyo without transferring is the JR Odoriko train. I confidently boarded the Odoriko, and that was the last pitfall of this trip, hahaha.

I got on and sat down, complaining about my bad luck while feeling tired and sleepy. Suddenly, I noticed the red light above and the light explanation in front of my seat—green means reserved, red means vacant. Hmm, Conan reasoning: if there's a distinction between reserved and vacant, that means this train requires a ticket purchased in advance! However, we, free and happy as we were, swiped our Suica cards to enter the station and freely sat down anywhere! Hahahaha.

It's okay, it's okay. I was in the non-reserved section; I'd just buy a supplemental ticket later. Can I? Indeed, after four or five stops, the conductor finally came. I smoothly paid, got the ticket, and the light above turned green.

I watched two elderly men next to me drinking beer and chatting until we finally arrived at Tokyo Station. Well, since I was already at Tokyo Station, I had to go eat at Rokurinsha!

Alright, the food and fun in Tokyo will be in the next post. I'm looking forward to it too!

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